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    • 专利摘要:
    ABSTRACT According to an example aspect of the present invention,there is provided a hair coloring con1position coniprisingdiniethylglucaniine, oil or extract and aroniatic oil oraron1atic extract from Nordic plants, at least onecosnietically acceptable solvent, and optionally other cosnietically acceptable ingredients.
    公开号:SE2150843A1
    申请号:SE2150843
    申请日:2021-06-30
    公开日:2022-01-04
    发明作者:Päivi Mäkinen
    申请人:Cutrin Oy；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [1] [0001] contain dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent, oil or extract from Nordic plants, The present invention relates to hair coloring cosmetic compositions, which aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic plants, at least one cosmetically acceptablehair coloring agent, at least one solvent and optionally one or more additional ingredients.The invention also relates to the use of the composition for the treatment or care of hair,particularly for coloring of hair, for example in the form of temporary, semi-perrnanent or permanent hair colorant compositions.BACKGROUND
    [2] [0002]compositions containing them. According to the definition provided in the REACH In cosmetic industry there is a growing trend towards natural ingredients and regulation, “natural” refers to naturally occurring substances as such, unprocessed orprocessed only by manual, mechanical or gravitational means, by dissolution in water, byflotation, by extraction with water, by steam distillation or heating solely to remove water, or which is extracted from air by any means.
    [3] [0003] 2016/2017), natural ingredients are cosmetic ingredients obtained only from plants, According to a recent ISO standard for cosmetic products (ISO 16128, animals, micro-organisms or minerals, including those obtained from these materials byphysical processes, ferrnentation reactions occurring in nature and leading to moleculeswhich occur in nature, and other procedures of preparation including traditional ones (e.g. extraction using solvents) without intentional chemical modif1cation.
    [4] [0004] the chemicals used for hair coloring can result in a range of adverse effects, including As regards coloring of hair, particular attention is paid to health risks, since temporary skin irritation and allergy. To ensure that hair colors contain only safe substances, the European Union has adopted legislation to restrict the use to only certain chemicals in hair colors ' 1.1.). However, there is a growing need for cosmetic compositions, particularly hair coloring compositions,wherein the use of synthetic, non-natural ingredients and possibly hazardous chemicals could be avoided to the extent possible.
    [5] [0005] Several attempts to use natural ingredients in hair coloring products and othercosmetic products have been made. Traditionally, lemon juice has been used forbrightening of blonde hair and henna for providing a reddish hair tone. Other examples of known natural hair coloring agents include indigo and turrneric.
    [6] [0006] intended for oral administration. The active agent of the composition is pargyline, Which is US 8741961 B2 discloses a hair growth promoting composition mainly stated to influence the metabolism of hair follicles and to fight hair loss. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise glucamine and juniper berry oil.
    [7] [0007]of hair. The composition may contain N-methylglucamine. US 2011033407 A1 discloses US 20150125415 A1 discloses a cosmetic composition suitable for treatment cosmetic compositions for treatment of human hair, Wherein the compositions comprisecloudberry fruit extract as a composition comprising Water, glycerin and cloudberry extract.
    [8] [0008] against Malassezíafurfur, a major causal factor for seborrheic derrnatitis (dandruff). It Was Lee et al (2010) have studied antifungal activity of 17 plant essential oils found that essential oils of Citrus auranzfolía may find use in controlling fungal-deriveddiseases, including seborrhea. Oils from juniper berry, pine and pine needle expressed no activity When samples Were treated With a concentration of 2 mg/ml.
    [9] [0009] The present invention aims at providing hair coloring compositions, Whereinthe proportion of natural/plant derived or natural (plant based) ingredients can be increasedhigher than in the prior known hair coloring products, Without adverse effects on theproperties of the cosmetic compositions as regards efficacy, structure and manufacture ofthe product. In particular, the invention aims at providing novel cosmetic compositions forcoloring of hair, Wherein the proportion of natural ingredients, derived natural ingredientsor derived or mineral ingredients is at least 50%, typically at least 70% or 90% by Weight, and Which provide a combination of a mild neutralizing agent and the beneficial properties of Nordic plant ingredients in the same composition.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
    [10] [0010] specific embodiments are defined in the dependent claims.
    [11] [0011] The present invention is based on the concept of using dimethylglucamine asa neutralizing agent in cosmetic compositions, together With ingredients derived from Nordic plants.
    [12] [0012] According to a first aspect of the present invention, there is thus provided ahair coloring composition comprising dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent, at leastone oil or extract from Nordic plants, at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract fromNordic berries or trees, at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent, at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent, and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients.
    [13] [0013] use of a hair coloring composition comprising dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent, According to a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided the at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants, at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extractfrom Nordic berries or trees, at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent, atleast one cosmetically acceptable solvent, and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, for the treatment or care of hair, particularly for coloring of hair.
    [14] [0014] Embodiments of the invention comprise a hair coloring composition fortreatment or care of hair, typically for coloring and care of hair, comprisingdimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent, at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants, atleast one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees, at least onecosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent, at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent,and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, such as additives or auxiliary agents, Wherein the at least one coloring agent may be a natural or synthetic coloring agent.
    [15] [0015] provides hair coloring compositions, Wherein the proportion of natural ingredients, derived Considerable advantages are obtained by the invention. First, the invention natural ingredients or natural organic and mineral ingredients is at least 50% by Weight,preferably at least 70% by Weight, more preferably at least 90% by Weight. Said products are also suitable for vegan users.
    [16] [0016] mild odour as compared to some traditional hair coloring compositions Which typically Second, the invention provides hair coloring compositions having a natural, have a strong smell of chemicals. Moreover, the neutralizing agent of the hair coloringcompositions of the invention in addition to being odourless is also biodegradable. Also the natural ingredients and derived natural ingredients from Nordic plants are biodegradable.
    [17] [0017] Third, the plant based oils and extracts from Nordic plants, typically fromNordic berries, as Well as the aromatic oils and aromatic extracts from Nordic berries ortrees provide the hair coloring compositions of the invention With antioxidants, Which areknown active ingredients in cosmetic products. Antioxidants can take part to processprohibiting artificial and natural hair color fading due exposure of sunlight and Weathering effects.
    [18] [0018] It has also been found that by incorporating antioxidant-containing oils andextracts from Nordic plants in cosmetic compositions Wherein amines, such asdimethylglucamine, are used as neutralizing agents, it is possible to reduce the formationof nitrosamines in the composition. Several oils and extracts from Nordic plants, such asoils and extracts from cloudberry, lingonberry, and bilberry, particularly from seedsthereof, such as cloudberry seed oil, are rich in antioxidants and vitamins, especiallyvitamin E. Further examples of vitamin-rich oils and extracts from Nordic plants are oat oiland canola oil, Which are rich in vitamin E, as Well as spray-dried cloudberry poWder,Which is particularly rich in vitamin C. In the present compositions the antioxidative properties of the oils and extracts from Nordic plants may reduce the formation of potentially carcinogenic nitrosamines from amines.
    [19] [0019] the following description of some embodiments.
    [20] [0020] “derived natural” and “plant origin derived” are used synonymously, When referring to the Within this disclosure, the terms “natural origin derived”, “natural derived”, ingredients of the compositions. Also the terms “natural based ingredients” and “plant based ingredients” and “natural ingredients” have the same meaning in the present context.
    [21] [0021] derived” and “natural/plant derived” refer to substances that originate from plants but In the present context, the terms “derived natural”, “natural/plant origin Which may have been modified to fit for certain cosmetic purposes. According to ISO16128-1, “derived natural ingredients” are cosmetic ingredients of greater than 50 %natural origin, by molecular Weight, by reneWable carbon content, or by any other relevant methods, obtained through defined chemical and/or biological processes With the intention of chemical modification. Examples of derived natural substances are shea butter ethyl CStCTS .
    [22] [0022] In the present context, the terrn ”natural/plant based” or “natura1” refers tosubstances that are obtained directly from nature/plants or are only slightly modified,correspondingly to the definition of natural ingredients by ISO 16128-1 . An example of natural ingredients is cetylstearyl alcohol.
    [23] [0023] for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients, may be used for assessment of whether a Intemational standard ISO 16128, which provides guidelines on definitions certain cosmetic ingredient is a natural or derived natural cosmetic ingredient. However,animal based ingredients are not used in the products within scope of the present patent, as the applicant is committed to vegan suitable products.
    [24] [0024] In the present context, the terrn “Nordic plants” or “Nordic wild plants”refers mainly to plants naturally growing in the Nordic area without agriculture orgardening. However, to ensure diversity of Nordic nature, sources of natural plant extractsand oils may also be cultured. The natural ingredients may thus originate from organic farrning methods or from wild harvesting in compliance with national legislation.
    [25] [0025]North Atlantic. Preferably, the “Nordic plants” referred herein include plants growing in The Nordic area refers to a geographical region in Northem Europe and the the Nordic countries, which by definition include Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, andSweden, as well as Greenland, the Faroe Islands, the Åland islands and Svalbard archipelagos.
    [26] [0026] flowers, and mushrooms, including parts of said plants, such as leaves, roots, branches, and Typically, Nordic plants include Nordic berries, trees, shrubs, subshrubs, twigs.
    [27] [0027] neutralizing agent in neutralization requiring cosmetic compositions with ingredients It has been found that by combining the use of dimethylglucamine as a obtained from Nordic plants it is possible to prepare cosmetic compositions, wherein theproportion of derived natural ingredients or natural/ ingredients is high, typically at least70% by weight of the composition. In particular, the hair coloring compositions accordingto the invention contain a proportion of natural or derived natural ingredients, which is at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 70%, or 90% by weight of the composition. This is a high number compared to traditional hair coloring compositions, Which generally do not contain any natural or plant-based ingredients or contain them only in Very minor amounts.
    [28] [0028] contain a combination of dimethylglucamine, at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants, In particular, the hair coloring compositions according to the inVention at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees, at least one haircoloring agent, and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. The “oil or extract fromNordic plants” refers herein to non-aromatic oils and non-aromatic extracts from Nordicplants. Thus the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises two types of oils/extracts: non-aromatic and aromatic.
    [29] [0029] CgH19NO5) is a sugar based, mild alkaline neutralizing agent.
    [30] [0030] subshrubs, flowers, and mushrooms, including parts thereof However, also some As stated above, Nordic plants typically include Nordic berries, trees, shrubs, oleiferous plants and cereals such as canola and oat (canola oil, oat oil) are also included.
    [31] [0031] comprise aromatic and non-aromatic oils or extracts from Nordic berries. Nordic berries In one preferred embodiment, the hair coloring compositions of the inVention include but are not limited to Nordic berries selected from the group consisting oflingonberry (Vaccíníum vítís-ídaea), bilberry (Vaccíníum myrtíllus), cloudberry (Rubuschamaemorus), cranberry (Vaccíníum oxycoccus / Oxycoccus palustrís), small cranberry(Vaccíníum mícrocarpum), bog bilberry (Vaccíníum ulígínosum), raspberry (Rubusídaeus), croWberry (Empetrum nígrum), rowanberry (Sorbus aucuparía, Sorbus fenníca),sea buckthom (Hzppophaé rhamnoídes), blackcurrant (Ríbes nígrum), redcurrant (Ríbesrubrum), White currant (Ríbes rubrum f. leucocarpum), greencurrant (Ríbes nígrum),gooseberry (Ríbes uva-críspa), aronia berry (Aronía mítschuríníí), saskatoon (Amelanchíer alnzfolía), Arctic bramble (Rubus arctícus), stone bramble (Rubus saxatílís), strawberry (F ragaría x ananassa), blackberry (Rubasfifutícosus), bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-arsí), wild strawberry (Fragaría vesca) and juniper berry (Janíperas commanís).
    [32] [0032] consisting of lingonberry (Vaccíníum vítís-íclaea), bilberry (Vaccíníum myrtíllus), In a preferred embodiment, the Nordic berries are selected from the group cloudberry (Rabas chamaemorus), cranberry (Vaccíníam oxycoccas / Oxycoccas palustrís),sea buckthom (Hzppophaë rhamnoícles) and juniper berry (Janíperas commanís). Juniperberry, sea buckthom berry and cloudberry may be sources of aromatic berry oils andextracts. Lingonberry, bilberry and cranberry may provide typical sources of non-aromaticberry oils and extracts. Preferably, the extracts and oils from said berries are provided in the forrn of berry seed oils.
    [33] [0033] pine (Pínas sylvestrís), birch (Betala), spruce (Pícea), juniper (Janíperas commanís), aspen Nordic trees include but are not limited to pine (Pínas), particularly Scots (Popalas tremala), alder (Alnas), and Willow (Salix). Preferred Nordic trees include pine, birch, spruce, and juniper.
    [34] [0034] cosmetic compositions of the invention can be obtained, rosebay willowherb (fireweed, As an example of Nordic flowers from which oils or extracts suitable for the Chamaeneríon angastzjfolíam) may be mentioned. An example of Nordic subshrubs is heather (Calluna vulgaris).
    [35] [0035] Nordic mushrooms include but are not limited to chaga mushroom (Inonotas oblíqaas) and bracket fungus or polypores (Ganoclerma).
    [36] [0036] using supercritical fluid extraction, particularly supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, if For cosmetic purposes, oils or extracts are typically obtained from plants by only appropriate for the plant in question. Traditional solvent extraction methods areusually not applicable for the preparation of substances intended for cosmetic use, due toan insufficient degree of purity and the inclusion of solvent residues. However, “mild” oil extraction methods such as cold-pressing are acceptable for cosmetic purposes.
    [37] [0037] available. Typically they are produced as follows: Berries or berry seeds are first dried, For example, several berry or berry seed oils and extracts are commercially pressed as cakes and milled and then extracted with C02. Also frozen berry pulp may beused. From this extraction the separated berry oil or berry seed oil is recovered, subjected to after-treatment and packed. The berry or berry seed extract is obtained by extracting the residue from the C02 extraction process by using a solvent different from C02.
    [38] [0038] It is possible to use for example Water, ethanol, ethanol/Water, butyleneglycol, butylene glycol/Water, glycerine or their mixtures as solvents in the extraction ofthe residual material. After the second extraction, any solids are separated from the extract.Before packaging the extract is subjected to microbial f1ltration. Microwave or ultrasonic extraction of Nordic plants and berries may also be used.
    [39] [0039] Aromatic oils or aromatic extracts are obtained from plants containingaromatic oils (essential oils). Aromatic oils are volatile and liquid aroma compounds,Which are poorly soluble in Water and have an odor, Which makes them suitable for use inperfumery and food flavouring. Aromatic oils are usually prepared by extraction techniques such as distillation and cold pressing.
    [40] [0040] In cosmetic compositions for treatment and/or coloring of keratin f1bres,Nordic plant extracts and oils may provide the cosmetic composition With keratin f1breconditioning properties, typically hair conditioning properties. Moreover, plant originderived ingredients With moisturizing properties may be added, such as xylitol from birchor oats. Also birch sap as such or in ferrnented form may be used as a moisturizing additive.
    [41] [0041] Oils and aromatic oils from Nordic plants also provide the composition With a pleasant scent. Mixtures of non-aromatic and aromatic oils and extracts may also be used.
    [42] [0042] In one embodiment of the invention, the proportion of natural ingredientsfrom Nordic plants is at least 0.1%, preferably at least 0.5%, more preferably at least 1-5% by Weight of the composition.
    [43] [0043] In one embodiment of the invention, the combined proportion of natural and derived natural ingredients is at least 90% by Weight of the composition.
    [44] [0044] In one embodiment of the invention, the total amount of oils or extracts fromNordic plants and aromatic oils or aromatic extracts from Nordic berries or trees in thecosmetic composition according to the invention is 0.001 - 50% by Weight of the composition, preferably 0.01 - 10 %, or 0.01 to 5 % by Weight.
    [45] [0045]Nordic plants is at least 0.01% by Weight of the composition, preferably at least 05-1% by In an embodiment of the inVention, the proportion of oil or extract from weight of the composition, typically 05-5% by weight of the composition. In onepreferred embodiment, said amounts of oils or extracts are obtained from berryfruits of Nordic berries, preferably in the forrn of berry seed oils.
    [46] [0046] oil, bilberry seed oil, and/or canola oil.
    [47] [0047] trees in the cosmetic composition according to the inVention is preferably at least 0.01%, The proportion of aromatic oils or aromatic extracts from Nordic berries or more preferably at least 05-1% by weight, typically 05-5% by weight of the composition. An example of aromatic extract is juniper sprout extract.
    [48] [0048]dimethylglucamine, which is at least 0.l%, at least 0.5% or at least 1% by weight of the Hair coloring compositions according to the inVention contain an amount of composition. Typically, the hair coloring compositions contain 0.1-10%, 0.5-10% or preferably 1-10% dimethylglucamine by weight of the composition.
    [49] [0049]or consisting essentially of at least 0.l%, preferably at least 0.5% by weight of A further embodiment of the inVention is a cosmetic composition, comprising dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent; at least 0.5% by weight of at least one non-aromatic oil or extract from Nordic plants; at least 0.1% by weight of at least one aromaticoil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees; at least one cosmetically acceptablehair coloring agent, at least one cosmetically acceptable solVent; and optionally othercosmetically acceptable ingredients, and wherein the total amount of natural or deriVed natural ingredients is at least 90% by weight of the composition.
    [50] [0050] from juniper (Juníperus communís), preferably in the forrn of juniper oil, juniper extract or In one embodiment of the inVention, the aromatic oil or aromatic extract is juniper sprout extract. A juniper sprout refers herein to the annual new growth of a juniperbranch. Other possible sources of aromatic oils or aromatic extracts are cloudberry, seabuckthom, pine, spruce, Angelica archangelíca and Ledum palustre. In case of the last two ingredients a question of possible phototoxicity of oil/ extract should be considered.
    [51] [0051] In an embodiment of the inVention, the aromatic oil or aromatic extract isfrom juniper, pine or spruce, preferably from juniper. In another embodiment, the aromatic oil or aromatic extract is from juniper, cloudberry, sea buckthom, or combinations thereof
    [52] [0052] one other neutralizing agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium In embodiments of the inVention, the composition may comprise also at least hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, monoethylamine (MEA), aminomethyl propanol (AMP),aminomethyl propanediol (AMPD) and ammonia. The amount of pH adjusting agentneeded is based on target pH.
    [53] [0053] Wherein the alcohols are preferably selected from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, Examples of solVents include but are not limited to Water and alcohols, glycerol and other plant origin derived glycols. Preferred solVents are Water and plantorigin deriVed ingredients like ethanol and glycerol. Occasionally a synthetic solVent like isopropanol may be needed.
    [54] [0054] selected from the group consisting of natural dyes and synthetic colors, preferably a The hair coloring composition also contains coloring agents or colorants substance selected from the list of substances allowed for restricted use in hair coloring Commission on March 27, 2017 products by the giVen European
    [55] [0055] Colorants and hair dyeing agents thus could include natural and syntheticdyes and colorants. Examples of natural dyes are plant-based dyes, such as Vegetable dyes, henna, indigo, blackcurrant, turrneric and bilberry.
    [56] [0056] temporary hair colorant shampoos or conditioners, temporary or semi-perrnanent hair Typical examples of compositions for treatment and/or coloring of hair are colorants (e.g. liquids, creams and foams, color toning and color rinsing compositions),and permanent hair colorants, Which in addition to the composition of the inVention require an oxidative part.
    [57] [0057] is thus In an embodiment, the hair coloring composition according to the inVention - a one-component product for coloring of hair (direct color composition); 11 - a two-component product for coloring of hair (semi-perrnanent or perrnanent colorcomposition); or- a temporary hair colorant liquid, serum, shampoo, Conditioner, masque, cream, foam, emulsion or powder.
    [58] [0058] coloring product contains at least one primary interrnediate agent and at least one coupling Traditionally, permanent hair coloring requires two separate products: a agent (a coupler); and the second product contains or is an oxidant. These ingredients aretypically produced via chemical synthesis. The two-component products for coloring ofhair are mixed immediately prior to use with an oxidative part, which typically containshydrogen peroxide. The coloring process is typically performed under basic conditions,which are usually provided by ammonia. Optionally the oxidative part may also contain athickening agent or thickener. In one embodiment of the invention, the hair coloring compositions of the invention are oxidative color compositions.
    [59] [0059] but are not limited to typical direct colors such as disperse violet, acid Violet 43, basic Direct coloring agents are traditionally synthetic colors. Direct colors include brown, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 3-nitro-p-hydroxyethylaminophenol. These and otherallowable coloring agents are mentioned in the List of substances allowed for restricted usein hair color products given by European Commission cited above. In one embodiment,the hair coloring compositions of the invention are direct color compositions (non- oxidative color compositions).
    [60] [0060] phenylenediamines such as toluene-2,5-diamine, preferably as toluene-2,5-diaminesulfate, Examples of primary interrnediates include but are not limited to p- p-aminophenols such as p-aminophenol and 4-amino-m-cresol, heterocyclic diamines suchas l-hydroxyethyl 4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate. The named compounds and otherallowable primary interrnediates are mentioned in the above referred List of substances allowed for restricted use in hair coloring products given by European Commission.
    [61] [0061] m-aminophenol and 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, m-phenylenediamines such as 2-amino-4- Examples of couplers include but are not limited to m-aminophenols such as hydroxyethylamino-anisole, resorcinols such as methylresorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol,pyridines such as 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, naphtols such as alfa-naphthol. The named compounds and other allowable couplers are mentioned in the List of substances 12 allowed for restricted use in hair coloring products given by European Commission cited above.
    [62] [0062] surfactants or emulsifying agents.
    [63] [0063] surfactants. Examples of anionic surfactants include but are not limited to sodium lauryl Surfactants or emulsifying agents include anionic, amphoteric, and non-ionic sulphate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, TEA lauryl sulphate, sodium laureth sulphate,ammonium laureth sulphate, TEA laureth sulphate, and cetyl phosphate.
    [64] [0064] Examples of amphoteric surfactants include but are not limited to betainederiVatiVes. Examples of non-ionic surfactants include but are not limited to alkyl glucosides, fatty alkanolamides, laureth-12, and deceth-3.
    [65] [0065] Cationic surfactants include for hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, dicetyldimonium example dipalmitoylethylchloride, and PEG-2 oleamine. However, their biodegradability and natural origin shouldbe evaluated to comply with the desired amount of natural and deriVed natural ingredients of the hair coloring compositions of the inVention.
    [66] [0066] gum, magnesium silicate, aluminium silicate, PEG deriVatiVes, cellulose deriVatiVes and Examples of thickeners or thickening agents include carbomers, xanthan long chain alcohols.
    [67] [0067] dimethicone and amodimethicone, silanes, such as alkoxysilanes, cellulose deriVatiVes, and Known hair conditioning agents include for example silicones, such as fatty acid esters. However, also berry seed oils from Nordic berries as well Nordic plant extracts possess hair conditioning properties.
    [68] [0068] Volatile silicones like amodimethicone. To increase hair shine and manageability, “D5” Silicones include Volatile silicones, such as dimethicone, and but also non- replacement emollients with plant origin derivative like Cl3-l5 alkane could be used instead of Volatile silicones as well as low Viscosity dimethicones.
    [69] [0069] If desired or needed, cationic polymers may also be included in thecomposition. Typical examples of cationic polymers are polycationic polymers such as Various polyquatemium products.
    [70] [0070] In an embodiment of the inVention, the composition of the inVentioncomprises at least one other neutralizing agent in addition to dimethylglucamine. The atleast one other neutralizing agent is preferably selected from the group consisting ofsodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, monoethylamine (MEA), aminomethyl propanol (AMP), and aminomethyl propanediol (AMPD) and ammonia.
    [71] [0071] ingredients selected from the group consisting of other oils, Waxes and fats, thickeners, hair The composition according to the inVention may also comprise other conditioning agents, preserVatiVe agents, perfume, chelating agents, pH adjusting agents,UV filters, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, emulsifying agents, soaps, cationicpolymers, antioxidants, reducing agents, silicones, f1lm forrning polymers, humectants, fibres, emollients, Vitamins, and bulking agents.
    [72] [0072] Other oils, Waxes, fats, resins, soaps, as Well as pH adjusting agents,preservatives, antimicrobials and perfumes typically used in cosmetic products are known to a person skilled in the art.
    [73] [0073] isomerate, birch sap and propylene glycol.
    [74] [0074] Examples of chelating agents are gluconates and EDTA, typically disodium-EDTA.[0075] All ingredients are selected to provide the compositions of the inVention With as high percentage proportion of natural/plant origin deriVed or natural ingredients aspossible, Without compromising the other properties of the composition, such as thedesired hair coloring effect, caring and conditioning effect, pleasant scent and structure of the composition.
    [76] [0076] shampoo, it typically contains anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic and/or cationic surfactants, When the composition according to the inVention is a temporary hair colorant thickeners, hair conditioning agents, hair coloring agents, and optional additionalingredients. An embodiment of the inVention is a hair colorant shampoo (temporary colorant) With a forrnula as referred in Example 1.
    [77] [0077] semiperrnanent hair colorant composition, such as liquid, cream of foam, it typically When the composition according to the inVention is a temporary or contains solvents, oils, Waxes and/or fats, emulsifying agents, surfactants, silicones, hairconditioning agents and hair coloring agents, and optional additional ingredients. Anembodiment of the inVention is a temporary or semi-perrnanent colorant With a forrnula as referred in Example 2.
    [78] [0078] type hair colorant, it typically contains oils, surfactants, emulsifying agents, soaps, When the composition according to the inVention is a perrnanent, oxidative solvents, thickeners, hair coloring agents, reducing agents, and optional additionalingredients. An embodiment of the inVention is a perrnanent, oxidative type hair colorant composition With a forrnula as referred in Example 3.
    [79] [0079] possibly additional oils or oil additives can be added directly to the forrnula, or used as an In examples 1, 2 and 3, an oil part consisting of Nordic berry/ plant oil and additive in forrnat of oil.
    [80] [0080] and the illustrative experimental examples, the present invention can be described by As Will be understood from the preceding description of the present inVention reference to the following embodiments: 1. A hair coloring cosmetic composition comprising: - dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent; - at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants; - at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees;- at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent; - at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients. 2. The hair coloring composition according to embodiment 1, Wherein the oil or extractfrom Nordic plants comprises oil or extract from Nordic plants selected from the group of Nordic berries, trees, shrubs, subshrubs, flowers, mushrooms, cereals and oleiferous plants. 3. The hair coloring composition according to embodiment 1 or 2, Wherein the Nordicberries are selected from the group consisting of lingonberry (Vaccíníum vítís-ídaea),bilberry (Vaccíníum myrtíllus), cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus), cranberry (Vaccíníumoxycoccus / Oxycoccus palustrís), small cranberry (Vaccíníum mícrocarpum), bog bilberry(Vaccíníum ulígínosum), raspberry (Rubus ídaeus), croWberry (Empetrum nígrum), rowanberry (Sorbus aucuparía, Sorbus fenníca), sea buckthom (Híppophaë rhamnoídes), blackcurrant (Ríbes nígram), redcurrant (Ríbes rabram), White currant (Ríbes rabram f.leacocarpam), greencurrant (Ríbes nígram), gooseberry (Ríbes ava-críspa), aronia berry(Aronía mítscharíníí), saskatoon (Amelanchíer alnzfolía), Arctic bramble (Rabas arctícas),stone bramble (Rabas saxatílís), strawberry (Fragaría x ananassa), blackberry (Rabasfrutícosus), bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursí), wild strawberry (Fragaría vesca) andjuniper berry (Janíperas commanís), preferably from the group consisting of lingonberry, bilberry, cloudberry, Cranberry, sea buckthom and juniper berry. 4. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments,wherein the Nordic trees are selected from the group consisting of pine (Pínas),particularly Scots pine (Pínas sylvestrís), birch (Betala), spruce (Pícea), juniper (Janíperas commanís), aspen (Popalas tremala), alder (Alnas), and Willow (Salix).
    [81] [0081] It is to be understood that the embodiments of the invention disclosed are notlimited to the particular structures, process steps, or materials disclosed herein, but areextended to equivalents thereof as Would be recognized by those ordinarily skilled in therelevant arts. It should also be understood that terrninology employed herein is used for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting.
    [82] [0082] Reference throughout this specification to one embodiment or an 18 embodiment means that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic described inconnection With the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the presentinvention. Thus, appearances of the phrases “in one embodiment” or “in an embodiment”in various places throughout this specification are not necessarily all referring to the sameembodiment. Where reference is made to a numerical value using a terrn such as, for example, about or substantially, the exact numerical value is also disclosed.
    [83] [0083] elements, and/or materials may be presented in a common list for convenience. However, As used herein, a plurality of items, structural elements, compositional these lists should be construed as though each member of the list is individually identifiedas a separate and unique member. Thus, no individual member of such list should beconstrued as a de facto equivalent of any other member of the same list solely based ontheir presentation in a common group Without indications to the contrary. In addition,various embodiments and example of the present invention may be referred to herein alongWith altematives for the various components thereof. It is understood that suchembodiments, examples, and altematives are not to be construed as de facto equivalents of one another, but are to be considered as separate and autonomous representations of the present invention.
    [84] [0084] combined in any suitable manner in one or more embodiments.
    [85] [0085] Whila tha forgoing axamplas ara illustrativa of tha principlas of tha prasant 22 inVention in one or more particular applications, it Will be apparent to those of ordinaryskill in the art that numerous modifications in forrn, usage and details of implementationcan be made Without the exercise of inVentiVe faculty, and Without departing from theprinciples and concepts of the inVention. Accordingly, it is not intended that the inVention be limited, except as by the claims set forth below.
    [86] [0086] limitations that neither exclude nor require the existence of also un-recited features. The The Verbs “to comprise” and “to include” are used in this document as open features recited in depending claims are mutually freely combinable unless otherwiseexplicitly stated. Furthermore, it is to be understood that the use of "a" or "an", that is, a singular form, throughout this document does not exclude a plurality.INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY
    [87] [0087] application in cosmetic industry, by providing cosmetic compositions including shampoos, At least some embodiments of the present inVention find industrial conditioners, and hair colorants.
    ACRONYMS LIST AMP aminomethyl propanol AMPD aminomethyl propanediol EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid ISO Intemational Organization for Standardization MEA monoethylamine PEG polyethylene glycol REACH registration, evaluation, authorization and restriction of chemicalsTEA triethanolamine CITATION LISTPatent LiteratureUS 8741961 B2 US 20150125415 A1 23 US 2011033407 A1 Non-patent Literature ISO 16128-1: Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products _ Part 1: Definitions for ingredients. 2016-02-15 ISO 16128-2: Cosmetics - Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients - Part 2: Criteria for ingredients and products. 2017-09 List of substances allowed for restricted use in hair dye products given by European Commission, March 2017, Document date: 27/03/2017
    权利要求:
    Claims (20)
    [1] 1. A hair coloring cosmetic composition comprising:- dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent;- at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants;- at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees;- at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent;- at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients,Wherein the proportion of natural or derived natural ingredients is at least 90% by Weight of the composition.
    [2] 2. The hair coloring composition according to claim 1, Wherein the oil or extract fromNordic plants comprises oil or extract from Nordic plants selected from the group of Nordic berries, trees, shrubs, subshrubs, flowers, mushrooms, cereals and oleiferous plants.
    [3] 3. The hair coloring composition according to claim 1 or 2, Wherein the Nordic berries areselected from the group consisting of lingonberry (Vaccíníum vítís-ídaea), bilberry(Vaccíníum myrtíllus), cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus), cranberry (Vaccíníum oxycoccus/ Oxycoccus palustrís), small cranberry (Vaccíníum mícrocarpum), bog bilberry(Vaccíníum ulígínosum), raspberry (Rubus ídaeus), crowberry (Empetrum nígrum),rowanberry (Sorbus aucuparía, Sorbus fenníca), sea buckthom (Híppophaë rhamnoídes),blackcurrant (Ríbes nígrum), redcurrant (Ríbes rubrum), White currant (Ríbes rubrum f.leucocarpum), greencurrant (Ríbes nígrum), gooseberry (Ríbes uva-críspa), aronia berry(Aronía mítschuríníí), saskatoon (Amelanchíer alnzfolía), Arctic bramble (Rubus arctícus),stone bramble (Rubus saxatílís), strawberry (Fragaría x ananassa), blackberry (Rubusfifutícosus), bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursí), Wild strawberry (Fragaría vesca) and juniper berry (Juníperus communís), preferably from the group consisting of lingonberry, bilberry, cloudberry, cranberry, sea buckthom and juniper berry.
    [4] 4. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, Wherein the Nordic trees are selected from the group consisting of pine (Pínus), particularly Scots pine (Pínus sylvestrís), birch (Betala), spruce (Pícea), juniper (Juníperus communís), aspen (Populus tremula), alder (Alnus), and Willow (Salix).
    [5] 5. The hair coloring composition according to claim 2, wherein the Nordic flowerscomprise rosebay willoherb (fireweed, Chamaeneríon angumfolíum), and the Nordic subshrubs comprise heather (Calluna vulgaris).
    [6] 6. The hair coloring composition according to claim 2, wherein the Nordic mushrooms areselected from the group consisting of chaga mushroom (Inonotus oblíquus) and bracket fungi or polypores (Ganoderma).
    [7] 7. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein thearomatic oil or aromatic extract is derived from juniper (Juníperus communís), preferablyin the forrn of juniper oil, juniper extract or juniper sprout extract, or from pine or spruce, preferably from juniper.
    [8] 8. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein theat least one cosmetically acceptable solvent is selected from the group consisting of waterand alcohols, wherein the alcohols are preferably selected from ethanol, isopropanol,propylene glycol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol and other plant origin derived glycols, more preferably from water, ethanol, glycerol and other plant origin derived glycols.
    [9] 9. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein theat least one coloring agent is selected from the group consisting of natural colors andsynthetic colors, preferably a substance selected from the list of substances allowed for use in hair coloring products given by the EC.
    [10] l0. The hair coloring composition according to claim 9, wherein the natural colors areselected from the group consisting of vegetable colors, henna, indigo, blackcurrant, turrneric and bilberry.
    [11] ll. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, whereinthe composition is - a one-component product for coloring of hair (direct coloring composition); - a two-component product for coloring of hair (semi-perrnanent or perrnanentcoloring composition); or- a temporary hair colorant liquid, serum, shampoo, Conditioner, masque, cream, foam, emulsion or powder.
    [12] 12. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, Whichfurther comprises at least one other neutralizing agent, preferably selected from the groupconsisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, monoethylamine (MEA),aminomethyl propanol (AMP), aminomethyl propanediol (AMPD) and ammonia (NH3).
    [13] 13. The hair coloring composition according to 11, Wherein the two-component product ismixed immediately prior to use With an oxidative part, Which typically contains hydrogen peroxide, and optionally thickening agents.
    [14] 14. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, Whereinthe proportion of natural ingredients from Nordic plants is at least 0.1%, preferably at least 05%, more preferably at least 1-5% by Weight of the composition.
    [15] 15. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, Whereinthe proportion of oil or extract from Nordic plants is at least 0.01% % by Weight of thecomposition, preferably at least 0.5-1 % by Weight of the composition, typically 0.5-5%by Weight of the composition.
    [16] 16. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, Whereinthe proportion of aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees is at least0.01% by Weight of the composition, preferably at least 0.5-1% by Weight, typically0.5-5% by Weight of the composition.
    [17] 17. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, Whichcontains an amount of dimethylglucamine, Which is at least 0.1%, at least 0.5% or at least1% by Weight of the composition, preferably 0.1-10%, 0.5-10% or preferably 1-10% by Weight of the composition.
    [18] 18. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 0.1%, preferably at least 0.5%, dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent;at least 0.5% by Weight of at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants; at least 0.1% by Weight of at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordicberries or trees; at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent; at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, Wherein the total amount of natural or derived natural ingredients is at least 90% by Weight of the composition.
    [19] 19. The hair coloring composition according to claim 18, Wherein the at least one or oil or extract and the at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract are from Nordic berries selected from the group consisting of cloudberry, juniper berry, sea buckthom berry, cranberry, bilberry and lingonberry, preferably in the form of berry seed oils thereof.
    [20] 20. Use of the hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims for the treatment or care of hair, particularly for coloring of hair.
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    法律状态:
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FI20205713|2020-07-03|
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