专利摘要:
PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition containing an amorphous poly(cycloolefin) is provided which offers a membrane forming property and a good maintenance for care and/or make-up cosmetic composition against the surface of face, body, lips mucous membrane, rail, eyelashes, eyebrow, hair, etc.. CONSTITUTION: The cosmetic composition is applied to keratin substances containing a liquid fatty acid, and contains the effective dose of amorphous poly(cycloolefin) or its mixture. The liquid fatty acid contains one more than oil that the formula includes one more than carbon-containing nucleus.
公开号:KR20000029357A
申请号:KR1019990046940
申请日:1999-10-27
公开日:2000-05-25
发明作者:뚜르닐락플로렁스;몽데쟝
申请人:조지안느 플로;로레알;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING AT LEAST ONE AMORPHOUS POLY (CYCLOOLEFIN) OR A MIXTURE OF AMORPHOUS POLY (CYCLOOLEFINS), AND THEIRIR USES}
The present invention relates to a composition applicable to a keratinous substance and more particularly to a cosmetic composition or mixture thereof containing one or more amorphous poly (cycloolefins), wherein the chemical structure contains one or more carbon-containing rings It is water-soluble or dispersible in the liquid fatty phase containing the above oil. More particularly, the present invention provides film forming properties for care and / or makeup cosmetic compositions, in particular for mucosal membranes such as the skin of the face, body and scalp, lips and eyelids, or body surface growths such as eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and hair. And to compositions having good holding power.
The composition may be extended to the casting product as a stick, in the form of a cream or lipstick, eyeliner, body makeup, a composition for protecting against sun or skin coloring, mascara, loose or compact powder, such as a paste or a liquid foundation. In concentrated form or in a circle such as lipstick or lip balm, to provide a foundation, concealer, eyeshadow or cheek paper.
Makeup or care products for human skin or lips, such as foundations or lipsticks, generally contain fatty phases, pigments and / or fillers such as waxes and oils and, optionally, adducts such as cosmetic or dermatological actives. They may also contain a so-called "paste" product with a constant softness, which makes it possible to obtain a colored or uncolored paste applied with a brush.
When applied to the skin or lips, the composition generally has the disadvantage of being pushed back, i.e. at least partially leaving traces on any support, in particular glass, cups, cigars, clothing or the skin, to which they can be contacted. This does not result in a constant coating film that must be applied constantly, such as, for example, a foundation or lipstick composition. Moreover, leaving the unacceptable marks on the blouse collar, in particular, renders women unable to use this type of makeup. In addition, the compositions are often hard and poorly resistant to water and sebum.
Applicant Procter & Gamble Company, in patent application wo-A-96 / 36323, describes a mascara composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion that exhibits good retention, waterproofness and no traces in water. The composition, like waxes, itself contains a water-insoluble polymer, commonly referred to as latex, together with alkyl or alkyloxydimethicone highpolyol forms, hydrocarbon oils, pigments and fillers.
In document WO-A No. 97/01321, REVLON has described a gloss "no-roll" cosmetic composition comprising a polymer which is an adhesive at room temperature, a volatile solvent, a nonvolatile oil and a particle dry material. The adhesive polymer is selected from vinyl, methacrylic acid or acrylic backbone and polymers having pendant siloxanes and fluorinated groups, polymers with vinyl, methacrylic acid or acrylic backbone and pendant siloxane groups, and also block or graft vinyl-silicone copolymers.
Documents EP-A 497144 and FR-A 2,357,244 also describe so-called "no-roll" compositions containing styrene-ethylene-propylene block polymers mixed with waxes, light or volatile oils and pigments. .
The compositions have the disadvantages of being very uncomfortable because of poor cosmetic properties and difficult to manufacture with formulations. In particular, when the polymers are fat soluble, they soften and stick to the membrane without substantial mechanical properties. Moreover, the "free of rolling" property of the composition is very average.
In addition, recently, there are fat soluble polymers in which the oil is hardly concentrated in cosmetics having good mechanism properties and particularly good film-forming properties, which makes the composition non-sticky, which somewhat limits the range of formulations.
Thus, there is still a need for a composition which does not present the above disadvantages and which has particularly good "no slip" properties, good long-term good holding power and good mechanical properties during rubbing, which does not make the skin or lips to apply sticky and / or taut. Without causing the discomfort by the treatment of the solid membrane.
Applicant has surprisingly found that, in particular in cosmetic compositions, one or more amorphous poly (cycloolefins) are used in which the chemical structure is dissolved or dispersed in a liquid fat phase comprising one or more oils comprising one or more carbon-containing rings. It has been observed that membranes with very good holding and / or resistance to water, Phoebe and even a solution of surfactants can be obtained which are very refreshing even if applied throughout the day. The membrane is particularly flexible, flexible and has good mechanical properties that are not sticky.
In the present application, amorphous (polyolefin) means an amorphous homopolymer of cycloolefin as well as an amorphous copolymer of cycloolefin, such as an amorphous olefin / cycloolefin copolymer.
The poly (cycloolefin) of the present invention is amorphous and generally has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of -20 ° C to 300 ° C, preferably -10 ° C to 150 ° C. They have the advantage of membrane-forming and fat soluble polymers which are not sticky, in particular unlike most fat-soluble membrane-forming polymers used in cosmetics. They also allow some liquid fatty substances to thicken and / or gel. There are now few polymers that generally thicken liquid fatty substances and are also membrane-forming.
The copolymers of amorphous cycloolefins of the invention, in particular olefin / cycloolefin copolymers, generally have a cycloolefin content of at least 10 mol%, preferably at least 20 mol%. They especially have a glass transition temperature of> -10 ° C.
It is therefore an object of the present invention, therefore, to include an effective amount of quantification, the chemical structure of which is a liquid fatty phase, at least one amorphous poly (cycloolefin) comprising at least one oil having at least one carbon-containing ring, in particular the total weight of the composition It is a cosmetic composition which can be applied to a keratinous substance containing a liquid fatty phase, containing 1 weight% with respect to.
The composition may also contain other ingredients that are miscible with the skin, mucous membranes, and body surface growths. In particular, the liquid fatty phase may contain one or more liquid fatty substances at room temperature.
Preferably, the composition also includes one or more coloring materials.
Its purpose also includes the quantification of an effective amount, the chemical structure of which is a liquid aliphatic, at least one amorphous poly (cycloolefin) comprising at least one oil having at least one carbon-containing ring, and still with respect to the total weight of the composition A composition comprising at least one wax which is provided in concentrated form and in particular in the form of a cast product, characterized in that it comprises 1% by weight and which is at least one liquid fatty phase and optionally solid at room temperature.
As described above, the composition may contain skin, mucous and body surface growths, and in particular other ingredients that are miscible with one or more coloring agents.
Amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or a mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) is present in an effective amount or in sufficient amount so that it does not get pushed, especially when rubbing, has good holding power, is not sticky, and can also be shiny and / or water and sebum Obtained as a membrane resistant to. It may also be present in an amount sufficient to thicken and / or gel the liquid fatty phase.
The amorphous poly (cycloolefin) used in the compositions of the present application preferably has a Tg of −20 ° C. to 300 ° C. and more preferably −10 ° C. to 150 ° C., and still more preferably 10 ° C. to 150 ° C. It may be an amorphous cycloolefin polymer or copolymer. Preferably, the amorphous poly (cycloolefin) of the present invention has a molecular weight in the range of 1000 to 10 6 , preferably 10,000 to 500,000 (MW).
The poly (cycloolefin) is generally an elastomer or thermoplastic polymer, especially from the result of the polymerization or copolymerization of one or more cycloolefins (including those not specified):
Cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (ie bicyclo [2,2,1] -hept-2-ene, 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6- Dimethylnorbornene, 5,5,6-trimethylnorbornene, 5-ethylidenenorbornene, 5-phenylnorbornene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinylnorbornene, 1,4,5 , 8-dimethano-1,2,3,4,4a, 5-8a-octahydroheptalene, dicyclopentadiene, or mixtures thereof.
It is also possible to use, in its chains, polymers containing hydrocarbons derived from the metallocene polymerization of certain dienes, such as 1,5-hexadiene, which in the polymer become "methylene cyclopentene" units.
Preferably, copolymers are used rather than homopolymers.
Among the copolymers of cycloolefins, copolymers (olefins / cycloolefins) which are random, alternatively have a block, multiblock, graft or star structure or some other structure are preferred.
In particular, one or more cycloolefins mentioned above and ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-ecocene, or mixtures thereof Copolymers between one or more olefins selected from are preferred.
Particularly recommended poly (cycloolefin) s of the present invention are copoly (ethylene / norbornene) and trimers (ethylene / propylene / ethylidene-norbornene).
The polymer may be synthesized by any known method capable of preserving in the presence of one or more hydrocarbon rings beside the main chain or the chain.
Among the most suitable polymerization processes for such mono- or copolymers of cycloolefins, more particularly, see Berggrom C.H., J. Appl. Polym. Sci, 63 (8) 1063-70 (1997) and MALMBERG A., J. Appl. of Polym. Sci. Vol 66, 35-44, (1997) and RISCHE T., Macromolecules, 31, 1871-74 (1998), metallocenes (eg, zirconocene / aluminoacids) Mention may be made of the catalyst. This technique does not open the ring carried by the cycloolefin, in particular, and allows the cycloolefin in the copolymer having the olefin to be bound well. As another polymerization technique suitable for such copolymers, mention may be made in particular of substitutional polymerization, ie polymerization by cycloolefin ring-opening, after the polymerization using cycloolefins which are initially possessed in two or more rings in the process, A chain contains one or more rings (in or next to the chain). The polycyclic cycloolefins are in particular norbornene, dicyclopentadiene, 1,4,5,8-dimethano-1,2,3,4,4a, 5,8a-octahydronaphthalene and the like.
The present invention therefore also encompasses polymers obtained from polycyclic cycloolefins such as norbornene, dicyclopentadiene, pentacyclopentadicene, which are polymerized by substitution, ie ring opening. For the polycyclic monomers, the polymerization opens only one ring and always results in a polymer possessing at least one repeating ring of the main chain. By way of example, the polymerization can be schematically represented by metallocenes and substitution routes in the following methods, starting with norbornene:
The amorphous mono- and copolycycloolefins obtained by substitution are then preferably hydrogenated to saturate the double bonds of the main chain. This saturation of the double bonds makes it possible to more stably obtain products and formulations comprising them.
Whatever polymerization, metallocene or substitution, the polymerization process may be present in solution, in any form in a gaseous or heterogeneous medium.
Other more traditional methods such as free radical or Ziegler-Natta polymerization can be used to provide effective mono- or copolymerizable cycloolefin (s).
Polymerization or copolymerization using one of the process bores can be carried out in blocks, solutions or dispersions.
Among the amorphous poly (cycloolefins) used, in particular the already cited literatures [BERGSTROM C.H., J. Appl. Polym. Sci, 63 (8) 1063-70 (1997), commercially available polynorbornene and copolycycloalkylenes, copoly (ethylene / norbornene), more particularly the trade name “ZEONEX®” Copolyolefins produced by NIPPON ZEON, trade name "TOPAS®" by EXXON, HOECHST-CELANESE. In addition, mention may be made of the commercially available terpolymer ethylene / propylene / ethylidene-norbornene, amorphous as produced by the DUPONT / DOW under the trade name “NORDEL® IP (amorphous category).
Preferred olefin / cycloolefin copolymers according to the invention are commercially available, for example, from NIPPON ZEON under the trade name "ZEONEX®" and from HOECHST-CELANESE under the trade name "TOPAS® 8007-S-04". And poly (ethylene-co-norbornene), amorphous (ethylene-co-cycloalkylene), preferably poly (ethylene-co-cyclobutene) and poly (ethylene-co-cyclohexene), available from TICONA. Poly (alkylene-co-cyclo (C 4 -C 6 ) alkylene), such as is an amorphous (ethylene-co-norbornene) having a norbornene content of generally 20 mol% or more.
Among the preferred amorphous copolymers of olefins / cycloolefins according to the invention, mention may also be made more generally of copolymers obtained by metallocene catalysts, especially in the presence of zirconocene-aluminoacid pairs.
The synthetic route actually allows for very good control of the copolymer molecular weight and low dispersion (multi-dispersion value 2) Let This results in very good incorporation of comonomers into the polymer chains having very similar chemical compositions.
For more detailed advantages of the metallocene catalyst synthesis, see "Emerging Technologies in Polymer Science and Engineering" M.P.ZAMORA et al. -Plastics Engineering / May 97, pages 75 to 79; J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 63 by CH. BERGSTROM, 1063-70 (1997) and J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 66 by A. MALMBERG, 35-44 (1997).
The amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or mixtures of poly (cycloolefin) according to the present invention can be selected by those skilled in the art according to the continuous application desired for its properties and composition.
Therefore, poly (cycloolefin) or a mixture of poly (cycloolefin) may or may not form a film. However, it is more particularly because the product of the composition exhibits extended retention for extended periods of time using poly (cycloolefin) or film-forming mixtures.
The object of the present invention is also a composition, as defined above, comprising a particularly volatile fatty phase and comprising at least one active agent selected from cosmetic actives and dermatological actives.
"Volatile fatty phase" is known to mean any non-aqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than an hour.
It is also an object of the present invention that the chemical structure may also be applied to keratinous materials containing one or more liquid fatty phases comprising one or more oils containing one or more carbon-containing rings or to thicken and / or gel the liquid fatty phases. To prepare a dermatological composition in an effective amount of a mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or a mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) that can be dissolved or dispersed in the liquid fatty phase or using a non-therapeutic composition.
Another object of the present invention is to prepare a thickened composition to produce an extended retention force and / or to be non-rolling, and preferably to produce a membrane which is glossy and / or resistant to water and / or non-sticky when applied. In the form of a cast product comprising at least one liquid fatty phase and optionally at least one wax, which may be applied to the keratinous substance in particular or at the time of manufacture and whose chemical structure comprises at least one oil containing at least one carbon-containing ring. And a composition which is solid at room temperature, in particular at least one amorphous poly (cycloolefin) dissolved or dispersed in the liquid fatty phase, present in an effective amount, in particular 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
Another object of the present invention is to provide one or more membrane-forming amorphous polys that can be applied to keratinous materials to reduce and / or eliminate migration of composition membranes deposited on human body growths to feed in contact with the membranes. Cycloolefin) for use in the preparation of a jungle-free composition, wherein the composition is dissolved or dispersed in a liquid fatty phase present in at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the liquid fatty phase has a chemical structure of at least one carbon- One or more oils containing the containing ring.
It is a further object of the present invention to produce a membrane which is free of movement when rubbed and / or exhibits a good holding force, and which is preferably glossy or resistant to water and / or sebum and nonsticky when applied, and / or comfortable. Amorphous polys that can be applied to keratinous materials including liquid fatty phases, coloring materials and mixtures thereof comprising at least one oil containing at least one carbon-containing ring, and at least one component selected from cosmetic or dermatological actives. In the preparation or for the use of the composition of the cycloolefin), the composition is dissolved or dispersed in said fatty phase, in particular in an effective amount, in particular in an amount of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is also an object of the present invention to consist of applying non-therapeutic and in particular non-communicating compositions as defined above to the lips and / or skin and / or body surface growths, respectively, the lips and / or skin and / or body surfaces. It relates to a method of applying to the growth product as a protective or makeup.
It is also an object of the present invention to increase the resistance to long term and / or water and / or sebum and / or to the skin and / or lips and / or body surface growths and other feeds, coloring substances and cosmetic actives and skin A method for limiting the rolling of a make-up or protective composition for skin and / or lip and / or body surface growths, which contains a liquid fatty phase and at least one component selected from scientifically active agents, wherein the fatty phase is at least one amorphous poly (cycloolefin). ), Wherein the amorphous poly (cycloolefin) is soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase, present in an effective amount and in particular at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
It has also been observed that the compositions according to the invention exhibit the advantage of being applied and adhered in particular to a smooth, non-sticky, refreshing feel on the skin, mucous membranes, mucous membranes and body surface growths.
Amorphous polymers or copolymers incorporated in the liquid fatty phase are cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable and generally physiologically acceptable, especially inorganic, animal, plant or synthetic oils, carbonaceous oils, cured oils, It consists of fluorinated oil and / or silicone oil and is used alone or in the form of a mixture until a homogeneous and stable mixture is formed, which is miscible and which will dissolve or disperse the polymer or copolymer of the present invention. Can be.
"Liquid fatty phase" is noted to mean any non-aqueous medium that is liquid at room temperature. However, the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one oil whose chemical structure contains at least one carbon-containing ring and preferably several carbon-containing rings. The oil can be volatile or nonvolatile. Examples of oils having a carbon-containing ring that can be used in the present invention include (alkyl) cycloalkanes having saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chains having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular cyclohexane, dioctylcyclo Derivatives of morpholine such as hexane, benzene, toluene, 2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexene, dipentene, p-cymene, naphthalene, anthracene, hydroxybenzomorpholine; Esters such as isostearyl benzoate, and phenylated silicones such as diphenyldimethicone. The oil represents 1 to 99% and more preferably 5 to 80% of the composition. In general, its quantity depends on the quantity of polymer used.
After dissolving or dispersing the polymer in an oil having a carbon-containing ring, any other oil or organic that is used in the art and is miscible with the alkylcycloalkane, i.e., is miscible with the alkylcycloalkane or can be dispersed in the alkylcycloalkane. Solvents can also be added.
For example, hardened oils such as paraffin oil, liquid petroleum jelly, hard polyvinbutene, bison oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, carlofilum oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, seed hemp Oils, corn oils, pearl oils, arara oils, rapeseed oils, sunflower oils, coconut oils, apricot oils, castor oils, avocado oils, yoyoba oils, olive oils or cereal germ oils; Esters of ranolic acid, oleic acid, lauryl acid or stearic acid; Esters of fatty chain acids or alcohols (6-20 carbon atoms), such as isopropyl relistate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isonate, 2-ethylhexyl Palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl or diglyceryl tri Isostearate; Higher fatty acids such as behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isosteraric acid; Higher fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenonyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; Silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), which is optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenylmethyldimethyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, phenyldimethicone, polymethylphenylsiloxane, or Optionally substituted with a fluorinated aliphatic group or an aromatic group or substituted with a hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine group; Mention may be made of fatty acids, polyalkylenes such as polysiloxanes or fatty acid copolyols made of fatty alcohols, fluorinated silicones and perfluorinated oils such as perfluoroalkylated polydimethylsiloxanes and perfluoroalkylated polymethylphenylsiloxanes. .
Advantageously, one or more oils which are volatile at room temperature can be used. The volatile oils facilitate the production of films with all “no jungle” properties. After evaporating the oil, a soft, non-stick, film-forming precipitate remains on the skin or mucosa to which the composition is applied as the skin or lips move. The volatile oils also make it easy to apply the recipe to skin, mucous membranes and body surface growths.
The oil may be a curing oil, silicone or silicone oil optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups at the ends of the pendant chain.
As volatile silicone oils which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones of silicon atoms 2 to 7, which silicones may optionally be selected, such as C 9 -C 16 isoparaffins and volatile fluorinated or perfluorinated oils. It contains an alkyl or alkoxy group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. The volatile oils in particular represent 30 to 97.99% and even 30 to 75% with respect to the total weight of the composition. As volatile oils which can be used in the present invention, in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcinclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane or "ISOPARs", PERMETYLs and Particular mention may be made of C 9 -C 16 isoparaffins such as isododecane or isohexadecane. Preference is given to using hydrocarbon volatile oils such as isoparaffin.
Mention may be made of linear or branched or cyclic esters having more than 6 carbon atoms, ethers having more than 6 carbon atoms, ketones having more than 6 carbon atoms and solvents alone or in the form of a mixture selected from alcohols such as decanol, dodecanol and octadecanol. .
Addition oils and / or solvents represent 0-40%, preferably 1-30%, based on the total weight of the composition.
The composition advantageously comprises a coloring material containing at least one finely divided composition and / or at least one fat-soluble colorant, for example in an amount of 0.01 to 70% by weight of the composition. The finely divided compound may be selected from pigments and / or pearlescent varnishes and / or fillers conventionally used in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions. The fine compound may represent 0.1 to 98% and for example 1 to 80% by weight of the total composition. The lower the amount of finely divided compounds, the better the quality without the jungle. As a result, the finely divided compound preferably represents 0.1 to 40%, and more preferably 1 to 30%. It is surprising that the non-rolling properties increase as the amount of fine compounds decreases. Indeed, the jungle-free properties of the prior compositions have increased with the amount of fine compounds. As a result, there was no good feeling and the dryness on the skin or mucous membranes increased.
In addition, the extended retention and / or lack of properties increased with the amount of amorphous polymer or copolymer and therefore are soluble or dispersible in the liquid fatty phase. Indeed, amorphous polymers or copolymers, as active materials or dry materials, may exhibit at least 50% by weight of the total composition.
Preferably, from 0.1% to 40% and more preferably from 1 to 30% and still more preferably from 5 to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.
The fuel may be white or colored which is inorganic or organic. Among inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface treated zirconium or cerium oxide, such as iron or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydroxide and iron blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, form D & C and lacquers based on carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
Pearlescent pigments are white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxcyclolide, mica-titanium with iron-oxides, mica-titanium with ferric blue or chromium oxide, the aforementioned organic pigments It may be selected from colored pearly pigments such as mica-titanium in the form.
The filler may be inorganic or organic lamellae or spherical. Talc, Mica, Silica, Kaolin, Nylon Powder (Atochemsa Orgazol), Poly-β-Alanine and Polyethylene, Teflon, Lauroyl, Lysine, Starch, Boron Nitride, Tetrafluoroethylene Polymer Powder, (Nobel Company) Expancel Hollow microspheres, such as microbeads of Dow Corning polytrap and silicone resins (e.g., Toshiba Corporation), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbons, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Maprecos SILICA) , Glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate can do.
The fillers used, in particular organic fillers in the form of polymers, contain one or more cosmetically active agents which can be released after application of the composition into the particles, with or without crosslinking.
Pigments and fillers may be coated or uncoated, in particular silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other material which promotes the dispersion and miscibility of the pigments in the composition.
Fat-soluble colorants are, for example, Sudan red, DC red 17, DC green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC yellow 11, DC violet 2, DC orange 5, yellow. They are 0.01 to 20%, and more preferably 0.1 to 6% by weight of the total composition.
The amorphous polymer or copolymer of the composition of the present invention forms a film on the skin, lips and / or eyelashes and forms a network that traps the coloring material and / or the active agent. Depending on the relative amount of coloring material used relative to the amount of stabilizing polymer used, it is possible to obtain a somewhat shiny film.
As a cosmetic or dermatological active agent that can be used in the composition of the present invention, a humidifier, vitamin, essential fatty acid, sphingolipid, sunscreen or sunscreen, antioxidant, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, tanning agent (UV) In the absence of irradiation), depigmentants, matting agents and mixtures thereof may be mentioned. The active agents are used by those skilled in the art in conventional amounts and in particular in concentrations of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
In addition, the composition according to the invention, according to the application form presented, contains components conventionally used in the art, which are present in suitable amounts of the desired herbal form.
In particular, in addition to the fatty phase in which the amorphous polymer or copolymer is present, it may be selected from vegetable, animal, inorganic or synthetic origin, or from silicone, wax, gum and / or paste fatty materials, and additional fatty phases, and And mixtures thereof.
Among the solid waxes that may be present at room temperature in the compositions according to the invention, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, beeswax, sugar cane or cork fibers Wax, paraffin or lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, montan wax, wax, polyethylene wax, wax obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oil, fatty ester and at 25 ° C. Mention may be made of glycerides which solidify. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, of which mention may be made of alkyl, alkoxy and / or esters of polymethylsiloxanes. Waxes are in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal particles of waxes, such as can be prepared according to known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions Theory and Practice" (LM Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977), 21-32). Can provide. As liquid wax at room temperature, jojoba oil may be mentioned.
The wax may be present in the composition in an amount of 0-50% by weight and more preferably 1-30%.
The composition may also contain any additives commonly used in such compositions, such as thickeners, fragrances, preservatives, surfactants, and other lipolytic polymers. Of course, the skilled person carefully selects the possible additional compounds, and / or amounts thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not adversely affected or substantially adversely affected by the indicated additions.
The compositions according to the invention may also contain homopolymers and copolymers, different from the poly (cycloolefins) of the invention, liposoluble and / or degradable on the ground.
Among the above homopolymers and copolymers, polyolefins such as polyethylene, polybutene and polydecene; Copolymers of (meth) acryl amides and / or esters; Copolymers of vinyl esters such as ethylene / vinyl acetate copolymers; (Meth) acrylic or vinyl copolymers or homopolymers carrying silicon groups, such as graft copolymers of (meth) acrylic backbones and macro eric silicone grafts; Copolymers of (meth) acrylic backbones or blocks with hydrocarbon grafts or blocks, such as polyisobutylene; Graft or block copolymers of polyorganosiloxane backbones or blocks with (meth) acrylic and / or vinyl grafts or blocks; Fluorinated or perfluorinated homopolymers or copolymers, eg, perfluorinated polyethers such as those sold under the name FOMBLINS®, perfluorinated (meth) acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, fluorinated vinyl homopolymers Or copolymers, fluorinated olefin homopolymers or copolymers and fluorinated poly (vinyl ethers).
In certain embodiments of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be prepared by those skilled in the art in a conventional manner. It may be provided in the form of any mold viscous product and, for example, in the form of a stick or rod, or in the form of a dish which can be used by direct contact or as a sponge. In particular, it finds application as a mold foundation, as a mold ball, or as a balm, concealer for an eyeshadow, lipstick, care base or lip. It can also be provided at 25 ° C. in the form of a soft paste with a dynamic viscosity of about 1 to 40 Pa · s or instead in the form of a gel, or in the form of a cream which is somewhat liquid. It also constitutes a foundation or lipstick, antisun or skin-coloring product, mascara, eyeliner and body makeup product. It is also provided in the form of low density or high density powder, and the polymer then acts as a binder.
The composition of the present invention is advantageously anhydrous and may contain less than 5% water relative to the total weight of the composition. It can therefore be provided in particular in the form of oily gels, oily liquids or oils, pastes or sticks or in the form of vesicular dispersions containing ionic and / or nonionic fats instead. The gelatinous form is prepared according to methods conventional in the art.
The compositions according to the invention can also advantageously be provided in the form of water-in-oil, oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsions, wherein the olefin copolymers according to the invention are used to replace all or part of the waxes normally present in such emulsions. . In particular, the wax constitutes at least one olefin copolymer and at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil according to the invention.
The composition for topical application is in particular a treatment or care cosmetic composition (for example, care cream, antisun oil, body gel) for a face, neck, hand or body, a makeup composition (for example make-up gel) or Configure artificial tanning or sun protection compositions.
Formulation example to prove the present invention
Comparative example describing 1 / film formability
a) As an example of a poly (cycloolefin), an amorphous ethylene / norbornene copolymer having a T G = + 85 ° C sold under the trade name "TOPAS® 8007-S-04" by TICONA (USA) is used. Use it here. For the preparation of the film and its characterization, a solution containing 5% of the TOPAS® copolymer in cyclohexane is prepared by dissolution, the solution is applied to a Teflon® plate and the film is applied with the aid of a conventional applicator. Poured to obtain a film of 300 μm wet thickness. The film is dried by evaporation at room temperature for one day.
A transparent, soft and glossy film is obtained, which is easily peeled off from the silicone support having a non-tackiness. The film is then cut out of several pieces that are deposited in water or pure "Teepol®" (example of thick surfactant); The film pieces are then qualitatively observed 15 minutes after deposition and at defined intervals of up to 72 hours of deposition. It has been observed that the film pieces do not deform, i.e. remain transparent, have a tackiness without obvious protrusions, are glossy and not easily broken, and have a flexibility comparable to that before deposition.
b) Film comparison of other commercial lipolytic polymers
The solutions in the following table are prepared and the film forming properties and film quality of the solutions obtainable are evaluated. The results are provided in the table below.
PolymerSolventfilm Isobornyl, Stearyl and Cetyl Methacrylate CopolymersIsododeccanNo film formation Polyvinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymerCyclohexaneNo film formation Linear polyethyleneIsododecane or cyclohexaneNo film formation Isobornyl, stearyl and cetyl methacrylateIsododeccanNo film formation Maleic Anhydride / Octadecyl Vinyl Ether CopolymertolueneNo film formation
While cycloolefin copolymer TOPAS® is a transparent, glossy, non-tacky, flexible, and fragile film that is resistant to water and surfactants, none of the other tested copolymers are films. can not do it.
Comparative example describing 2 / oil thickening property
As an example of amorphous poly (cycloolefin), the same copolymer "TOPAS® 8007-S-04" sold by TICONA Corporation and the tradename "ZEONEX® 480" by NIPPON ZEON Corporation Other copolyolefins of T G = + 138 ° C. are used here.
Solution containing 5 wt% of copolymer TOPAS (R) and copolymer ZEONEX (R) in dioctylcyclohexane and, as a comparison, triblock copolymer KRATON (R) 10 in C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoate A solution containing% is prepared.
Measure the reduced viscosity of the various solutions:
Solution reduced viscosity (centipoise)
TOPAS 5% + 6000
Dioctylcyclohexane
ZEONEX® 5% + 2000
Dioctylcyclohexane
KRATON® 10% + 1000
C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoate
The results show that the cycloolefins according to the invention have a thickening for their dissolved oils which is significantly higher than that of the triblock copolymer KRATON®.
Example of 3 / anhydrous sunscreen product
-TOPAS® 8007-S-04 * 5 g
Nanometric TiO 2 (MT 100T) 7 g
-10 g of isododecane
-100 g of dioctylcyclohexane appropriate amount
* Glass transition temperature T g +85 ℃
Molecular weight (MW) 5000 Dalton
Density 1.02
After dissolving the polymer in dioctylcyclohexane, at room temperature, while stirring, isododecane and TiO 2 are added to obtain a product. It exhibits excellent properties of water resistance, sebum resistance and friction resistance.
The amorphous polymer or copolymer of the composition of the present invention forms a film on the skin, lips and / or eyelashes and forms a network that traps the coloring material and / or the active agent. Depending on the relative amount of coloring material used relative to the amount of stabilizing polymer used, it is possible to obtain a somewhat shiny film.
权利要求:
Claims (36)
[1" claim-type="Currently amended] A composition which can be applied to keratinous materials comprising a liquid fatty phase, comprising an effective amount of a mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or amorphous poly (cycloolefin), wherein the liquid fatty phase has at least one carbon-containing chemical structure. A composition comprising at least one oil containing a nucleus.
[2" claim-type="Currently amended] 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amorphous poly (cycloolefin) has a glass transition temperature of −20 ° C. to + 300 ° C., preferably −10 ° C. to + 150 ° C. 3.
[3" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the poly (cycloolefin) is selected from homopolymers of cycloolefins and copolymers of cycloolefins.
[4" claim-type="Currently amended] 4. The composition of claim 3 wherein the copolymer of cycloolefin is selected from copoly (olefin / cycloolefin).
[5" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition according to claim 4, wherein the copolymer of cycloolefin contains at least 10 mol%, preferably at least 20 mol% cycloolefin.
[6" claim-type="Currently amended] 6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or the mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) represents at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7.
[7" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or the mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) is a membrane-forming product.
[8" claim-type="Currently amended] 8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, which is provided in the form of a concentrated product comprising a cosmetic liquid fatty phase and at least one solid wax.
[9" claim-type="Currently amended] 9. The composition of claim 8, wherein the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil.
[10" claim-type="Currently amended] 10. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one active agent selected from cosmetic and dermatological actives.
[11" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one coloring material.
[12" claim-type="Currently amended] 12. Cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene, 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene, 5, 5,6-trimethylnorbornene, 5-ethylidenenorbornene, 5-phenylnorbornene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinylnorbornene, 1,4,5,8-dimethano- A composition characterized by polymerizing or copolymerizing at least one cycloolefin selected from 1,2,3,4,4a, 5,8a-octahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene and mixtures thereof to obtain amorphous poly (cycloolefin). .
[13" claim-type="Currently amended] The poly (cycloolefin) amorphous poly (norbornene), poly (cyclobutene), polycyclohexene, poly (ethylene-co-norbornene), poly (ethylene) according to any one of claims 1 to 11. Co-cyclobutene), poly (ethylene-co-cyclohexene) and ethylene / propylene / ethylidene-norbornene 3 trimer.
[14" claim-type="Currently amended] 14. The composition of claim 13, wherein the poly (ethylene-co-norbornene) has a norbornene content of at least 20 mole%.
[15" claim-type="Currently amended] 15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the amorphous poly (cycloolefin) is obtained by conventional metathesis or metallocene synthesis.
[16" claim-type="Currently amended] The liquid fatty phase according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising an inorganic, animal, plant or synthetic oil, carbonaceous oil, cured oil, fluorinated oil and / or silicone oil alone or in the form of a mixture thereof. A composition, characterized in that.
[17" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1, wherein the liquid fatty phase contains one or more (alkyl) cycloalkanes.
[18" claim-type="Currently amended] 18. The liquid fatty phase according to any of claims 1 to 17, wherein the liquid fatty phase is paraffin oil or liquid petroleum jelly, bison oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, carlofilum oil, palm oil, palm oil, yes Ifseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado oil, yoyoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil; Esters of ranolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid; Fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl Decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl maleate, glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; Higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; Higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; Silicone oils such as optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, phenyldimethicone, polymethylphenylsiloxane, or optionally substituted with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups PDMS substituted with a functional group; Polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones, perfluorinated oils, volatile oils such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexademethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, A composition characterized in that it comprises at least one oil selected from heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane or C 8 -C 16 isoparaffins, in particular isododecane and isohexadecane.
[19" claim-type="Currently amended] 19. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil which is volatile at room temperature.
[20" claim-type="Currently amended] 20. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 19, further comprising at least one additional fatty phase selected from wax, gum and / or plant, animal, inorganic or synthetic source, or paste fatty material containing silicone, and mixtures thereof. A composition, characterized in that.
[21" claim-type="Currently amended] 21. The composition according to any one of claims 11 to 20, wherein the coloring material comprises at least one fine compound selected from fillers, pigments, pearlescent varnishes and mixtures thereof.
[22" claim-type="Currently amended] 22. The composition of claim 21, wherein the fine compound represents 0.1 to 98% of the total weight of the composition.
[23" claim-type="Currently amended] 22. The composition of claim 21 wherein the fine compound represents 1 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.
[24" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or the mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) is represented as 50% or less of the total weight of the composition (as a dry substance).
[25" claim-type="Currently amended] 24. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or the mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) is represented by 5% to 30% of the total weight of the composition (as a dry matter).
[26" claim-type="Currently amended] 26. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one oil selected from C 8 -C 16 isoparaffins.
[27" claim-type="Currently amended] 27. The method of any one of claims 1 to 26, wherein in the form of a stick or rod; In the form of a soft paste having a dynamic viscosity of about 1 to 40 Pa · s at 25 ° C .; Plate shape; Oily gel form; Oily liquid form; At least one oil in the form of a vesicular dispersion containing ionic and / or nonionic lipids, in water-in-oil, oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsions, wherein the wax has at least one carbon-containing ring with a chemical structure And a mixture of one or more amorphous poly (cycloolefins) having or a mixture thereof.
[28" claim-type="Currently amended] 27. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims in the form of an anhydride.
[29" claim-type="Currently amended] 29. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is provided in the form of a protective and / or makeup product for skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes.
[30" claim-type="Currently amended] 30. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 29, characterized in that it is provided in the form of a cast foundation, cast balm or eyelid, lipstick, protective base or lip balm, concealer, mascara, eyeliner or body makeup. Composition.
[31" claim-type="Currently amended] Use for the preparation of a non-therapeutic or dermatological composition, containing at least one fatty phase, containing an effective amount of a mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or amorphous poly (cycloolefin), and having a chemical structure of at least one carbon-containing Use of a composition characterized in that it is dissolved or dispersed in said liquid fatty phase for thickening and / or gelling a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil containing a ring.
[32" claim-type="Currently amended] In the manufacture or use of a composition which can be applied to keratinous materials, to reduce or even eliminate the increase and / or the retention of the composition deposited on the skin and / or lips and / or body surface growths, Dissolve or disperse a liquid fat phase in which the chemical structure comprises one or more oils containing one or more carbon-containing rings, and at least one component selected from the liquid fatty phase and cosmetic or dermatologically active agents, coloring substances and mixtures thereof. And use of at least one amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or a mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefin).
[33" claim-type="Currently amended] For the production of membranes which are resistant to water and / or sebum and which are not sticky and / or feel good when applied, the liquid fat phase contains at least one oil whose chemical structure contains at least one carbon-containing ring. Use to prepare membranes of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) or mixtures of amorphous poly (cycloolefin) that are degraded or dispersed.
[34" claim-type="Currently amended] In the use for the preparation of cosmetic compositions which can be applied to keratinous materials, amorphous poly (cycloolefin) in which the chemical structure is decomposed or dispersed in a liquid fat comprising at least one oil containing at least one carbon-containing ring. Or the use of a composition of a mixture of amorphous poly (cycloolefins).
[35" claim-type="Currently amended] 35. The poly (cyclobornene) amorphous poly (cyclobornene), poly (cyclobutene), poly (cyclohexene), poly (ethylene-co-norbornene), poly9 ethylene- Co-cyclobutene), poly (ethylene-co-cyclohexene) and poly (ethylene / propylene / ethylidene-norbornene).
[36" claim-type="Currently amended] 36. The use of any of claims 31 to 35, wherein the amorphous poly (cycloolefin) is obtained by substitution or metallocene synthesis.
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日
CA2287811A1|2000-04-28|
EP0997141A1|2000-05-03|
CN1256119A|2000-06-14|
FR2785184B1|2002-05-10|
FR2785184A1|2000-05-05|
JP2000136111A|2000-05-16|
BR9906129A|2000-12-26|
引用文献:
公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
法律状态:
1998-10-28|Priority to FR9813490
1998-10-28|Priority to FR9813490A
1999-10-27|Application filed by 조지안느 플로, 로레알
2000-05-25|Publication of KR20000029357A
优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
FR9813490|1998-10-28|
FR9813490A|FR2785184B1|1998-10-28|1998-10-28|Cosmetic composition for topical application, containing at least one amorphous polyor a mixture of amorphous poly , and uses thereof|
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