专利摘要:
The invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of biphase type, comprising an immiscible aqueous phase and an oil phase that are distinct and capable of being dispersed one inside the other. The aqueous phase contains an agent for encapsulating the oily phase, in particular a maltodextrin. This composition may contain, as an active agent, caffeine, or extracts derived from the argan tree.
公开号:FR3048177A1
申请号:FR1651554
申请日:2016-02-25
公开日:2017-09-01
发明作者:Violaine Duran;Dominique Cellier
申请人:Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmetique SA;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, in particular intended for a topical application, of the two-phase type comprising two distinct immiscible phases which can be dispersed in one another by stirring. The invention also relates to the use of this composition in the cosmetic field, in particular as a slimming agent or for combating cutaneous aging, as well as a cosmetic care method using such a composition.
Two-phase cosmetic compositions are known, that is to say comprising two immiscible phases which are distinct from one another at rest, and which are capable of forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture when the composition is agitated, one of the phases being then dispersed in the other phase, generally in the form of fine droplets or microdroplets. Typically, these compositions comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase. Examples of such compositions are described in particular in EP 0 603 080.
Such compositions conventionally comprise a combination of: an emulsifying agent, to allow the formation of an emulsion of the aqueous phase and the oily phase with stirring, and the stabilization of this emulsion, thus allowing a user to take a homogeneous sample of the two phases for use, and a dephasing agent, also called demixing agent, such as an alkyl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride or a vinylpyrrolidone polymer or copolymer, which ensures, after the end of the agitation, the two phases separate and quickly return to their original state in which they are separate from each other, to obtain a visual appearance more aesthetic and more attractive to the user.
For such compositions, the control of the phase shift time, that is to say the time taken by the composition, after stirring, to return to its initial state in which the aqueous phase and the oily phase are distinct from one of the other, is carried out by precise adjustment of the relative proportions of each of the emulsifier and the phase-shifter in the composition, these relative proportions depending on the particular emulsifier and phase-shifting agent set implemented, as well as all the other constituents contained in the composition. Such control is binding to achieve.
The present invention aims at providing a two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, whose phase-shift time can be easily controlled, while being both long enough for the two phases to remain in homogeneous dispersion for a long time to allow practical use. of the composition by the user, and short enough to find a visual aesthetic effect, in two distinct phases, quickly after use.
Additional objects of the invention are that: this composition is clear in appearance, both at rest, when the two phases are distinct, than during or after stirring, when one of the two phases is dispersed in the other ; and at rest, the interface between the two phases is clear. The invention also aims to ensure that the composition contains a high concentration of active principle (s), for maximum effectiveness, and that this active principle (s) are perfectly solubilized and stabilized therein, so as to obtain the desired transparency effect. At the origin of the present invention, it has been discovered by the present inventors that, quite surprisingly, the incorporation into a two-phase composition of a particular functional ingredient, more particularly the incorporation into the aqueous phase. of an encapsulation agent for the oily phase, makes it possible to slow down the dephasing of the oily phase and of the aqueous phase sufficiently to achieve the objective that the present invention has set itself, that is to say to form a composition which, after stirring, remains in the form of a homogeneous dispersion of one phase in the other for a certain time, in particular for at least 30 seconds, then which is rapidly decomposed, in particular in less than two seconds minutes, to return to its initial state in which the phases are distinct from one another, and superimposed on each other. Such an advantageous result is obtained solely by the presence in the aqueous phase of the oily phase encapsulation agent, without the need to use a combination of an emulsifying agent and a demixing agent. and even when the composition is free of alcohol, or contains alcohol in an amount of less than 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Thus, it is proposed according to the present invention a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, intended in particular for a topical application, of the two-phase type, that is to say which comprises an aqueous phase, also called hydrophilic phase, and a oily phase, also called fat phase or lipophilic phase, these two phases being immiscible and distinct from each other at rest, but able to disperse into one another with stirring to form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture. The aqueous phase contains an agent for encapsulating the oily phase.
The term "encapsulation agent for the oily phase" means an agent capable of encapsulating hydrophobic molecules contained in the oily phase, when the two phases are dispersed in one another by stirring, in particular by a formation effect, by the encapsulating agent, inclusion complexes with these hydrophobic molecules.
The presence of such an encapsulant is advantageously sufficient to delay the phase shift of the oily phase and the aqueous phase dispersed in one another. Thus, after stirring the composition, the encapsulating agent makes it possible to maintain the composition in a homogeneous dispersion state for a time long enough to allow a user to take a homogeneous dose of the two phases without hurry, before a rapid phase shift in two distinct phases, to the initial state, does not occur naturally. The aesthetic visual effect found quickly after use, when the composition has returned to the initial state, in which the two phases are perfectly distinct, is all the more important when, according to a particularly preferred characteristic of the invention. the two phases are of different colors, for example when the oily phase is colorless, and the aqueous phase is colored.
The delay time of the dephasing of the oily phase and the aqueous phase, that is to say the moment at which, after stirring of the composition, the aqueous phase and the oily phase begin to separate one from the other. the other, and the time taken by the composition to return to its initial state in which the aqueous phase and the oily phase are distinct from each other, are advantageously controlled by the concentration of the encapsulation agent alone in the composition. Preferably, the concentration of encapsulation agent is chosen so that the phase shift starts only after at least thirty seconds after the end of stirring of the composition, and that it is complete in less than two minutes.
Preferably, the encapsulating agent is contained in the composition in an amount of between 0.05 and 0.2%, in particular approximately equal to 0.1%, this quantity being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The encapsulating agent may consist of any water-soluble compound capable of encapsulating hydrophobic molecules dispersed in an aqueous phase, in particular into a compound of the osidic type.
According to a particularly preferred characteristic of the invention, the encapsulating agent is chosen from dextrins, preferably from maltodextrins and cyclodextrins, and mixtures thereof. These molecules are advantageously capable of forming inclusion complexes with the molecules to be encapsulated, which are then trapped either between molecules of the encapsulating agent forming a crystalline organization, or in a cavity formed by a structure of the molecule d encapsulating agent.
The dextrin (s) used may be of any origin, in particular wheat starch, potato, corn, rice, tapioca, legumes such as pea, beans, beans or lentils. etc. The encapsulating agent is preferably a maltodextrin, for example derived from corn starch, whose swelling agent properties make it particularly suitable for encapsulating the hydrophobic molecules contained in the oily phase, and for delaying the phase shift of the composition, by reinforcing colloidal interactions between the droplets of the oily phase dispersed in the aqueous phase.
Maltodextrins are sugars obtained by acid and / or enzymatic hydrolysis of starch. They comprise a complex mixture of linear or branched saccharides, and are typically characterized by a dextrose equivalent (DE) value of between 1 and 20. In the present description, however, the glucose syrups are included in the term maltodextrins. similarly obtained but having a dextrose equivalent (DE) value greater than 20.
The composition according to the invention preferably further responds to one or more of the following characteristics, implemented separately or in each of their technically compatible combinations.
In general, being intended for topical application, in particular to the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the hair, the composition according to the invention is such that all of its constituents are physiologically compatible.
In addition, the ingredients contained in the composition, in particular the oils, are preferably selected to be suitable for application of the composition for the care of the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, as opposed to removing make-up.
Moreover, the constituents of each of the phases are chosen, as are their proportions in their respective phase, so that each of the phases is transparent, each of the constituents being particularly perfectly solubilized therein.
The composition according to the invention is preferably in liquid form. Otherwise, it may be in gel form, a gelling agent then being present in particular in the aqueous phase and / or in the oily phase.
The composition according to the invention is preferably substantially free of emulsifying agent. By substantially free means that the composition does not contain emulsifying agent, or in insufficient quantity to ensure the creation and stabilization of an emulsion from the aqueous phase and the oily phase. Thus, preferentially, when the composition according to the invention contains an emulsifier, this emulsifier is present in an amount of less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1%, and preferably less than 0.05% by weight by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention is moreover preferably free of demixing / dephasing agent, such as benzalkonium chloride or a polyvinylpyrrolidone polymer or copolymer. It is preferably also free of alkanes.
Preferably, the constituents of the oily phase and the constituents of the aqueous phase are chosen such that the refractive indices of the aqueous phase and the oily phase are substantially equal. By substantially equal means is meant here that the difference between the refractive index of one of the phases and the refractive index of the other of the phases is less than 0.01.
Such a characteristic advantageously ensures that the composition remains clear even after stirring, when one of the phases is dispersed in the other phase, which gives it a particularly aesthetic visual appearance. Moreover, at rest, it follows that the interface between the two phases appears perfectly clear.
According to a particularly preferred characteristic of the invention, the oily phase contains a silicone oil, that is to say an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, or a mixture of such oils. This oil is preferably a non-volatile silicone oil. Silicone oils have in particular an emollient effect quite advantageous for topical application of the composition according to the invention, in particular on the skin. Silicone oil, or all of the silicone oils, is preferably the major component of the oily phase. The total amount of silicone oils in the composition is furthermore preferably between 30 and 60%, and preferably between 40 and 50%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The non-volatile silicone oil is preferably dimethicone, which has in particular the advantages of a rapid phase shift after dispersion in an aqueous phase, and a relatively low refractive index, which is closer to that of water than the most other silicone oils.
The oily phase may also contain one or more other oils, in particular hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of plant origin, such as esters of caprylic acids and of fatty alcohol, in particular of C 12 to C 18 fatty alcohols. By way of example, the oily phase may thus contain one or more substances chosen from coco-caprylate and dicaprylyl carbonate.
The oily phase may contain any other liposoluble additive that is conventional in itself for the formulation of cosmetic compositions, in particular for topical use.
In addition to water, the aqueous phase may in turn contain a polyol, which is preferably chosen from glycerine, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, or a mixture of such polyols.
This polyol may otherwise consist of a polyethylene glycol, a polypropylene glycol, such as dipropylene glycol, etc.
The use of glycerine is particularly preferred in the context of the invention, in particular because of its relatively high refractive index (of a value of 1.473), in particular with respect to water, and of its effect. physiological moisturizer. In particular, glycerin has a high water retention capacity on the cutaneous surface, and therefore a high capacity for maintaining surface hydration.
The polyol, or all of the polyols, preferably constitute the major component of the aqueous phase. The total amount of polyols in the composition is further comprised between 10 and 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferentially, the aqueous phase contains glycerine as the major component, and the oily phase contains dimethicone as the major component.
The aqueous phase may further contain a C1-C6 alcohol, preferably a non-aromatic alcohol, such as ethanol, in an amount of less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
It may otherwise be free of such alcohol.
The aqueous phase may also contain any other water-soluble additive conventional in itself for the formulation of cosmetic compositions, in particular for topical use.
According to a preferred characteristic of the invention, the oily phase represents 50 to 80%, preferably 60 to 70%, by weight of the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase represents 20 to 50%, preferably 30 to 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may further contain at least one topically active agent, or a plurality of such active agents.
This or these active agents may be present both in the aqueous phase and in the oily phase. Preferably, the composition according to the invention advantageously contains at least one active agent present in the aqueous phase, and at least one active agent present in the oily phase, to obtain a better efficacy for a given effect, or several simultaneous beneficial effects.
For this, the two-phase form of the composition according to the invention is quite advantageous since it makes it possible to combine in the same composition soluble active agents solely in the aqueous phase, and soluble active agents only in the phase. oily.
The composition according to the invention may in particular contain at least one active agent with slimming properties.
In particular, as such an active agent with slimming properties, the composition according to the invention may contain caffeine.
Preferably, the amount of caffeine in the composition is then greater than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.8 and 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. composition, and more preferably approximately equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a high amount of caffeine advantageously makes it possible to give the composition a particularly high slimming effect, in particular an attenuation effect of the orange peel appearance of the skin, more commonly known as cellulite and / or prevention of the appearance of such an appearance of orange peel.
The caffeine is preferably contained in the aqueous phase. For this purpose, when the caffeine concentration of the final composition is greater than 0.8%, the aqueous phase preferably contains a C1-C6 alcohol, for example ethanol, which allows its complete solubilization and obtaining a clear aqueous phase.
Furthermore, still in order to achieve an object of the invention, which is that the aqueous phase is clear, and the rest in time, the composition preferably contains, preferably in the aqueous phase, a caffeine stabilizing substance.
The present inventors have discovered that it is possible to stabilize caffeine at a concentration as high as 2.5% by weight in the aqueous phase (to obtain, after mixing with the oily phase, a final concentration close to 1%), by the presence in the aqueous phase of triethanolamine salicylate. Such a substance advantageously avoids the phenomena of recrystallization of caffeine in the composition. In this regard, the present invention also relates, more generally, to a two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are distinct from one another, which contains a quantity greater than or equal to 0 , 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, caffeine, and a stabilizing substance such as triethanolamine salicylate, and which has a clear appearance. This composition may further contain a non-volatile silicone oil such as dimethicone, and / or a polyol such as glycerine, and / or a small amount of a C1-C6 alcohol, such as ethanol, that is to say an amount of less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example approximately equal to 10% by weight, plus or minus 1%. This composition may be devoid of encapsulating agent for the oily phase. It may furthermore meet one or more of the features described above or hereafter.
The composition according to the invention may further contain, as an active agent with slimming properties, phloridzine.
Phloridzine is a glycosylated dihydrochalcone belonging to the flavonoid family, which has in particular an antioxidant effect which makes it particularly advantageous for an application in a cutaneous anti-aging composition; as well as an activity for inhibiting the differentiation of pre-adipocytes into adipocytes, which make it entirely appropriate for a slimming cosmetic application. By preventing the pre-adipocytes from differentiating into adipocytes, phloridzin indeed makes it possible to avoid the increase of fat overload in adipose tissue, and in particular cellulitis, and limits the storage of fat.
Phloridzin may in particular be contained in the composition in pure form, or substantially pure. Preferably, it is present in the form of an extract of apple branches (Pirus malus), in particular as described in document FR 2 799 121. Such an extract is preferably initially in the form of a dry extract containing 10 25% by weight of phloridzine, relative to the total weight of dry matter, and 20 to 40% of polyphenols, whose antioxidant action itself proves to be of advantage for cosmetic applications. It can in particular be obtained by extraction of apple branches ground by a polar solvent.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains a mixture of caffeine and phloridzine.
In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains at least one cutaneous anti-aging agent.
In particular, this anti-aging agent can be extracted from the plant Argania Spinosa, commonly called argan tree. The extracts of this plant are particularly rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and participate advantageously, used in a cosmetic composition, the prevention of drying of the skin, which gives them an anti-wrinkle effect.
Preferentially, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention contains Argania Spinosa oil, and / or the aqueous phase contains a hydrophilic extract of Argania Spinosa.
Preferably, the oily phase contains Argania Spinosa oil and the aqueous phase contains a hydrophilic extract of Argania Spinosa, in particular rich in active peptides, to obtain a particularly important anti-aging skin effect.
In addition, the present inventors have now discovered that a particular fatty alcohol ester, coco-caprylate, makes it possible to solubilize perfectly the argan oil in an oily phase, in particular consisting mainly of a silicone oil, in an amount as high as 2% by weight, and even 10% by weight, of argan oil relative to the total weight of the oily phase, so that the oily phase then has a clear appearance, in accordance with the one of the objectives that the present invention has set. In this regard, the present invention also relates, more generally, to a two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are distinct from one another, which contains a greater or equal quantity to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of argan oil, as well as an ester of caprylic acid and of fatty alcohol such as coco-caprylate, and which has an appearance clear. It may further contain a non-volatile silicone oil such as dimethicone, and / or a polyol such as glycerine. This composition may be devoid of encapsulating agent for the oily phase. It may furthermore meet one or more of the features described above or hereafter.
The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any other active agents, in particular topically, for example chosen from hydrating agents, preferably physiological agents, emollient agents, antioxidants, ultraviolet radiation blockers, vitamins, self-tanning compounds, essential oils, etc., or a mixture of such compounds.
It may also contain any conventional additive in itself for a cosmetic composition, for example one or more of the following ingredients: perfume, dye, preservative, neutralizing agent, etc.
Preferably, the composition contains a coloring agent in only one of the two phases, so that a first of the phases, typically the oily phase, is colorless, and the second of the phases, typically the aqueous phase, is colored. Such a characteristic advantageously improves the aesthetic appearance of the composition, when it is at rest, since the two phases then appear very clearly distinct from each other, with an interface whose sharpness is then particularly emphasized.
The composition according to the invention may also contain a nonionic surfactant, preferably a silicone surfactant, preferably in a small amount, less than 0.2%, especially less than 0.1%, and for example less than 0.05%, weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a component advantageously makes it possible, during the return to the initial state after stirring, to avoid the deposition of droplets of oily phase or of aqueous phase on the walls of the container containing the composition, in particular in the part of this empty container of composition.
Such a nonionic surfactant may in particular be chosen from alkyl-dimethicone polyols and alkoxydimethicone copolyols. By way of example, it may thus be used in the context of the invention the substance marketed under the name Abil® WE 09, INCI name: Cetyl PEG PPG-10/1 Dimethicone / Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate / Hexyl laurate / Pentaerythrityl tetra di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrodrocinnamate.
The composition according to the invention can be packaged in any conventional container in itself, equipped with any type of dispensing means, for example packaged in pump bottle or spray. The container containing the composition is further of the single compartment type, containing the aqueous phase and the oily phase, to allow easy dispersion of one into the other by stirring, extemporaneously at the time of use.
According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for preparing a composition according to the invention, in particular meeting one or more of the above characteristics. This process comprises the preparation of each of the aqueous phase and the oily phase independently of each other, by solubilization of each of the ingredients in the phase which contains it respectively, then the mixture of the oily phase and the phase aqueous solution thus obtained.
Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention, particularly answering to one or more of the above characteristics, for the cosmetic treatment by topical application to the skin, the mucous membranes and or the hair, in particular of a mammal, in particular of a human.
According to the invention, this use preferably comprises stirring the composition so as to disperse the aqueous phase and the oily phase into one another, and taking a dose of the dispersion thus formed for application by topical route to skin, mucous membranes and / or hair.
When the composition according to the invention contains at least one active agent with slimming properties, it may especially advantageously be used for the treatment and / or prevention of localized fat overload and / or cellulite, and / or for obtaining a slimming effect, by application topically to the skin area concerned.
When the composition according to the invention contains at least one active anti-aging skin agent, it can in particular be used to fight against skin aging, by application topically to the skin area concerned. The fight against skin aging can notably result in an attenuation or a delay of the effects of aging of the skin, a restructuring of the epidermis, a firming of the skin, a reduction or resorption of wrinkles, a strengthening of the protective properties epidermis, and / or maintenance or improvement of cutaneous hydration.
Another aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic care method comprising the topical application, on at least a portion of the skin of the body and / or face of a mammal, in particular a human, a composition according to the invention, in particular responding to one or more of the above characteristics.
This process preferably comprises stirring the composition so as to disperse the aqueous phase and the oily phase into one another, and taking a dose of the dispersion thus formed for application topically to at least part of the skin of the body and / or face.
This method may especially comprise the application of the composition, containing an anti-aging skin active ingredient, in an amount effective for combating cutaneous aging, in particular on the skin of the face, neck and, where appropriate, hands.
It may comprise the application of the composition, containing an active slimming agent, in an amount effective to treat and / or prevent localized fat and / or cellulite and / or to obtain a slimming effect, in particular on the skin of the thighs , buttocks and belly.
The features and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly in the light of the following examples, provided for illustrative purposes only and in no way limitative of the invention, with the support of FIGS. 1 to 3, in which: FIG. 1 shows photographs of flasks containing, at rest, (a) a composition according to the invention containing maltodextrin, (b) an identical composition without maltodextrin; FIG. 2 shows photographs of the flasks of FIG. 1, immediately after stirring, (a) for the composition according to the invention containing maltodextrin, (b) for the identical composition without maltodextrin; and FIG. 3 shows photographs of the flasks of FIG. 1, 11 seconds after stopping the stirring, (a) for the composition according to the invention containing maltodextrin, and (b) for the identical composition without maltodextrin. EXAMPLE 1 - Slimming cosmetic composition
A slimming composition comprising the following ingredients is prepared. For each of these ingredients, the concentration is indicated in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase (40%)
Glycerin 10-20%
Demineralized water or thermal water qs 100%
Alcohol 1 - 15%
Caffeine 1%
Citric acid 0.005%
Maltodextrin 0.05 - 0.2%
Extract of rod of Pirus malus 0,05 - 0,3%
0.1 - 3.0% triethanolamine salicylate
Sodium chloride 0,1 - 1,5%
Dye qs
Oily phase (60%)
Dimethicone 30 - 59%
Dicaprylyl carbonate 0-20%
Camelina sativa seed oil 0.1-4%
Dimethiconol 0 - 0.1%
Perfume 0.1-1%
The refractive indices of the aqueous phase and of the oily phase are advantageously equal (approximately 1.41), so that the composition, which is at rest in the form of two distinct clear phases separated by a clean interface, remains completely transparent after stirring the phases.
After stirring, the mixture remains stable for more than 30 seconds. The phase shift is then performed quickly, and is complete in less than two minutes. The interface between the two phases appears again perfectly clear.
This composition has a particularly important slimming effect, especially because of the high amount of caffeine it contains, and the association between caffeine and phloridzine (present in the composition in the form of extract of Pirus malus). This slimming effect is reflected in particular in the treatment and prevention of fat overload and cellulite of the skin, by application of the composition topically to the areas of the skin concerned.
The composition also remains advantageously stable for at least 2 months stored at ambient temperature, that is to say between about 20 ° and 25 ° C., but also under stress conditions, more particularly under cold conditions (at a lower temperature at 10 ° C) and in heat condition (at a temperature above 30 ° C). EXAMPLE 2 - Anti-Aging Skin Care
A skin anti-aging composition is prepared comprising the following ingredients. For each of these ingredients, the concentration is indicated in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase (30%)
Glycerin 10-20%
Demineralized water or thermal water qs 100%
Argania spinosa extract 0.0005 - 0.01%
Citric acid 0-0.1%
Maltodextrin 0.05 - 0.2%
Extract of rod of Pirus malus 0,05 - 0,3%
Conservative 0 - 0.4%
Dye qs
Oily phase (70%)
Dimethicone 30 - 60%
Coco caprylate 10-25%
C12-15 alkyl benzoate 0-5%
Argania spinosa 0.1-5% core oil
Antioxidant 0.01 - 0.1%
Perfume 0.05 - 0.5%
The refractive indices of the aqueous phase and of the oily phase are advantageously equal (approximately 1.41), so that the composition, which is at rest in the form of two distinct distinct phases, separated by a clean interface, is completely transparent after mixing the phases by stirring.
After stirring, the mixture remains stable for more than 30 seconds. The phase shift is then performed quickly, and is complete in less than two minutes. The interface between the two phases appears again perfectly clear. For comparison, it was prepared the same composition, but without maltodextrin. Figure 1 shows bottles containing, at rest, the composition according to the invention (a) and the composition without maltodextrin (b). It is observed that for each of the flasks, the two phases are distinct, and the interface between the two phases is clear.
These same flasks are shown in FIG. 2, after stirring carried out so as to mix the aqueous phase and the oily phase. The mixture appears homogeneous and transparent, for the two compositions tested.
Finally, Figure 3 shows the same two bottles 11 seconds after stopping the stirring. It is clearly seen that for the composition without maltodextrin (b), a phase shift has already occurred, the colored aqueous phase appearing clearly at the bottom of the flask. On the contrary, the composition according to the invention, containing maltodextrin (a), is still in the form of a homogeneous dispersion of the two phases. This dispersion remains stable for a time sufficient to allow a user to take comfortably and without hurry a homogeneous dose, for use.
This composition according to the invention also has a significant anti-aging effect, in particular due to the simultaneous presence of argan oil in the oily phase and peptides from the argan in the aqueous phase.
The composition also remains advantageously stable for at least 2 months stored at ambient temperature, that is to say between about 20 ° and 25 ° C., but also under stress conditions, more particularly under cold conditions (at a lower temperature at 10 ° C) and in heat condition (at a temperature above 30 ° C).
权利要求:
Claims (25)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are distinct from each other, characterized in that the aqueous phase contains an agent for encapsulating the oily phase.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the encapsulating agent is chosen from dextrins, preferably from maltodextrins and cyclodextrins, and mixtures thereof.
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the encapsulating agent is contained in the composition in an amount of from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. composition.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, substantially free of emulsifying agent.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the refractive indices of the aqueous phase and the oily phase are substantially equal.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
The composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the oily phase contains a silicone oil, preferably a non-volatile silicone oil, or a mixture of such oils.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the total amount of silicone oils is between 30 and 60%, preferably between 40 and 50%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the aqueous phase contains a polyol, preferably selected from glycerin, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, or a mixture of such polyols.
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
9. The composition of claim 8, wherein the total amount of polyols is between 10 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the aqueous phase contains a C1-C6 alcohol, preferably ethanol, in an amount of less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[11" id="c-fr-0011]
11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the oily phase represents 50 to 80%, preferably 60 to 70%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[12" id="c-fr-0012]
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, containing at least one active agent by the topical route.
[13" id="c-fr-0013]
13. Composition according to claim 12, containing at least one active agent with slimming properties.
[14" id="c-fr-0014]
14. A composition according to claim 13, containing as active agent with slimming properties, caffeine, preferably at a concentration greater than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0 , 8 and 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[15" id="c-fr-0015]
15. Composition according to any one of claims 13 to 14, containing as active agent with slimming properties of phloridzine.
[16" id="c-fr-0016]
16. Composition according to claim 12, containing at least one cutaneous anti-aging agent.
[17" id="c-fr-0017]
17. A composition according to claim 16, wherein the oily phase contains Argania Spinosa oil and / or the aqueous phase contains a hydrophilic extract of Argania Spinosa.
[18" id="c-fr-0018]
18. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 for the cosmetic treatment by topical application to the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair.
[19" id="c-fr-0019]
19. Use according to claim 18, comprising stirring the composition so as to disperse the aqueous phase and the oily phase into one another, and taking a dose of the dispersion thus formed for application.
[20" id="c-fr-0020]
20. Use according to any one of claims 18 to 19 for the treatment and / or prevention of localized fat overload and / or cellulite and / or for obtaining a slimming effect, the composition containing at least an active agent with slimming properties.
[21" id="c-fr-0021]
21. Use according to any one of claims 18 to 19 for combating skin aging, the composition containing at least one cutaneous anti-aging agent.
[22" id="c-fr-0022]
22. Cosmetic treatment process comprising the topical application to at least a portion of the skin of the body and / or face, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17.
[23" id="c-fr-0023]
23. The method of claim 22, comprising agitating the composition so as to disperse the aqueous phase and the oily phase into one another, and taking a dose of the dispersion thus formed for application.
[24" id="c-fr-0024]
24. Method according to any one of claims 22 to 23, comprising the application of said composition in an amount effective to fight against skin aging.
[25" id="c-fr-0025]
25. A method according to any one of claims 22 to 23, comprising the application of said composition in an amount effective to treat and / or prevent localized fat overload and / or cellulite and / or to obtain a slimming effect.
类似技术:
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日
EP3419589B1|2020-03-11|
RU2735539C2|2020-11-03|
CA3012423A1|2017-08-31|
HK1259228A1|2019-11-29|
PT3419589T|2020-04-22|
KR20180112053A|2018-10-11|
CN108697621A|2018-10-23|
ES2785699T3|2020-10-07|
FR3048177B1|2020-10-30|
AR107701A1|2018-05-23|
TW201731482A|2017-09-16|
WO2017144820A1|2017-08-31|
RU2018133566A3|2020-06-17|
RU2018133566A|2020-03-25|
MX2018010067A|2018-09-27|
SG11201806269TA|2018-09-27|
EP3419589A1|2019-01-02|
TWI733764B|2021-07-21|
引用文献:
公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
FR2763506A1|1997-05-20|1998-11-27|Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique|Tri:phase emulsions for topical application|
FR2790758A1|1999-03-09|2000-09-15|Commissariat Energie Atomique|SOLUBILIZATION OF POLYUNSATURATED FATTY ACIDS AND DERIVATIVES THEREOF BY FORMATION OF INCLUSION COMPLEXES WITH A CYCLODEXTRIN AND THEIR USE IN PHARMACEUTICAL, COSMETIC OR FOOD COMPOSITIONS|
US20030031722A1|2001-06-04|2003-02-13|Hongjie Cao|Starch-oil composites for use in personal care applications|
EP1424065A1|2002-11-26|2004-06-02|L'oreal|Transparent dual phase composition for topical application|
WO2008012220A1|2006-07-25|2008-01-31|Zambon S.P.A.|Cosmetic or dermatological preparations comprising n-acetylcysteine|
FR2699404B1|1992-12-18|1995-01-27|Oreal|Two-phase cosmetic or dermatological composition for removing make-up, cleansing or caring for the skin containing benzalkonium chloride.|
FR2799121B1|1999-10-01|2004-02-13|Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique|EXTRACTS FROM APPLE BRANCHES USEFUL IN DERMOCOSMETOLOGY AND THEIR PREPARATION PROCESS|
CN100438848C|2003-04-22|2008-12-03|花王株式会社|Taking-off compsns. and sheet-like taking-off material|
KR101123137B1|2009-05-11|2012-06-20|더페이스샵|manufacturing method of Composition of 2-layer|
JP5554943B2|2009-06-03|2014-07-23|花王株式会社|Transparent multilayer liquid cosmetics|
JP5041551B2|2009-09-25|2012-10-03|株式会社資生堂|Water-in-oil emulsified skin cosmetic|
JP5756655B2|2011-03-02|2015-07-29|花王株式会社|Multi-layer cosmetic|
FR2993177B1|2012-07-16|2014-07-11|Oreal|BIPHASIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING ALKYLPOLYGLUCOSIDE AND A FUSION POINT ESTER LESS THAN 10 ° C|CN110151635A|2019-07-02|2019-08-23|昱伊健康产业有限公司|A kind of nano-encapsulated micro-capsule liquid applied in slim cosmetics|
FR3104963A1|2019-12-20|2021-06-25|L'oreal|BIPHASE COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF AN AQUEOUS PHASE CONSISTING OF ONE OR POLYOLS AT A CONTENT RANGING FROM 5% TO 30% BY WEIGHT AND AN OILY PHASE CONSISTING OF NON-SILICONE OILS|
FR3112076A1|2020-07-01|2022-01-07|L'oreal|Two-phase composition comprising an alkylpolyglycoside surfactant, a particular diol and an alkane, ester or ether compound comprising from 15 to 30 carbon atoms|
法律状态:
2017-02-28| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
2017-09-01| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20170901 |
2018-02-28| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
2020-02-28| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
2021-02-26| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
FR1651554A|FR3048177B1|2016-02-25|2016-02-25|BIPHASE COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND ITS USE BY TOPICAL APPLICATION|FR1651554A| FR3048177B1|2016-02-25|2016-02-25|BIPHASE COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND ITS USE BY TOPICAL APPLICATION|
TW106105928A| TWI733764B|2016-02-25|2017-02-22|Biphase cosmetic composition and its use by topical application|
ES17710349T| ES2785699T3|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|Biphasic cosmetic composition and its use by topical application|
RU2018133566A| RU2735539C2|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|Two-phase cosmetic composition and its application for local application|
PT177103496T| PT3419589T|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|Two-phase cosmetic composition and use thereof for topical application|
EP17710349.6A| EP3419589B1|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|Two-phase cosmetic composition and use thereof for topical application|
CN201780013062.8A| CN108697621A|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|Two-phase cosmetic composition and its external application purposes|
ARP170100449A| AR107701A1|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|BIPASSICAL COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND ITS USE THROUGH TOPIC APPLICATION|
MX2018010067A| MX2018010067A|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|Two-phase cosmetic composition and use thereof for topical application.|
SG11201806269TA| SG11201806269TA|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|Two-phase cosmetic composition and use thereof for topical application|
KR1020187027304A| KR20180112053A|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|Two-phase cosmetic compositions for topical application and uses thereof|
CA3012423A| CA3012423A1|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|Two-phase cosmetic composition and use thereof for topical application|
PCT/FR2017/050399| WO2017144820A1|2016-02-25|2017-02-23|Two-phase cosmetic composition and use thereof for topical application|
HK19101285.1A| HK1259228A1|2016-02-25|2019-01-24|Two-phase cosmetic composition and use thereof for topical application|
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