• 专利附录
  • 专利说明
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    • 专利摘要:
    A first subject of the present invention is an agent for coloring fibers containing keratin, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic vehicle (a) at least one direct dye and (b) an inorganic buffer system consisting of at least one inorganic acid (b1) and at least one inorganic salt thereof (b2) and (c) water. Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic product comprising the previously mentioned coloring agent, packaged in a pressurized container (aerosol), the pressurized container (aerosol) having a spray valve dispensing device (aerosol). A third object of the present invention is a method for increasing the stability of the dyes of the coloring agents, wherein the aforementioned ingredients (a), (b) and (c) are used in the agent.
    公开号:FR3047896A1
    申请号:FR1751214
    申请日:2017-02-15
    公开日:2017-08-25
    发明作者:Konstantin Goutsis
    申请人:Henkel AG and Co KGaA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and relates to a keratin-containing fiber staining agent, in particular human hair, which contains, in an aqueous medium or containing water, at least one direct-acting coloring agent and an inorganic buffer system. These coloring agents are perfectly suitable for manufacture in aerosol form. A second subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic product comprising an agent of the first subject of the invention, which is packaged in a pressurized container (aerosol), the pressurized container (aerosol) having a valve dispensing device. spray (aerosol). A third object of the present invention is a method for improving the stability of the shades when dyeing keratin fibers, wherein a coloring agent containing at least one direct dye is sprayed with an inorganic buffer system.
    The transformation of fiber shapes and colors into keratin, especially hair, is an essential area of activity for the modern cosmetics sector. These techniques make it possible to modify the appearance of the hair according to the fashion trends as well as according to the particular wishes of the persons concerned. According to the requirements of the coloring, those skilled in the art know different color systems in order to transform the color of the hair. In general, oxidation coloring agents are used for permanent, intensive coloring and characterized by good characteristics of authenticity and good coverage of gray hair. These coloring agents generally contain oxidation dye precursors, called developer components and coupler components, which shape the actual dyes together under the action of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation coloring agents are characterized by exceptional and long-lasting color results, but cause slight damage to the hair.
    If the user wishes to reduce the damage to the hair or only temporarily change its hair color, it can resort to coloring agents that have the principle of mounting directly on the fiber. In this case, the already developed dyes diffuse into the hair fiber from the coloring agent. Compared to oxidation dyes, stains made from direct dyes are characterized by lower durability and faster rinsing off. In general, the gray hair coverage properties obtained by direct acting dyes can also be improved. This type of color, however, has the advantage of less damaging the hair. Those skilled in the art have long known that the pH value of a hair coloring agent can have a considerable influence on the intensity and the lack of shade of a color. On the one hand the proportion of the swelling of the hair depends on the pH value of the coloring agent. As such, the principle is that the swelling of the hair decreases as much as the agent applied to the hair is basic. On the other hand, a more intense swelling of the hair promotes the diffusion of the dyes into the fibers of the hair. Coloring agents which contain neutral, direct-acting principles (eg nitro dyes) or cationic principles (such as azo dyes having a quaternary ammonium group) generally deliver when calibrated for pH values. higher, a result of more intense color.
    In contrast, for acid dye staining - i.e. by dyes carrying at least one anionic charge in the form of a carboxyl or sulfonate group, it is generally imperative to determine a pH value plus acid to obtain a sufficiently intense color test. Thus the color result which can be obtained by acid dye is generally made more intense by the decrease of the pH value. The user wishes that the color of his hair is exactly the same as that displayed on the packaging of the dye. Accurate compliance with a determined pH value is therefore essential for the coloring agent, in order to achieve a calculable color result with a reproducible color intensity. On the other hand, the absorption spectrum of a dye and therefore its color can be influenced by the pH value. This applies to all dyes that are protonated or deprotonated according to the principle of acid-base indicators and whose chromophore system is influenced by a corresponding protonation or deprotonation. Some acid dyes can react to minimal changes in the pH value by shifting their absorption spectrum. Determining the pH value in a targeted and precise manner is therefore equally essential to obtain a coloration characterized by a lack of reproducible shades.
    As a matter of principle, it is known to those skilled in the art that adjustment of the pH value in a hair coloring agent can be accomplished by buffer systems. For example, in US 6,248,314, the pH value of dyes containing different acid dyes as well as alkylene carbonates acting as a penetration enhancer was adjusted using a buffer system consisting of lactic acid and caustic soda.
    GB 2 259 717 also describes coloring agents based on acidic dyes and organic solvents whose pH value has been attenuated to a range of 3 by the use of citric acid and caustic soda. .
    None of these known buffer systems for coloring agents, however, can be considered optimal for long-term stability. Most dyestuffs based on direct dyes contain - either to improve the solubility of the dyes, or as a penetration enhancer - more significant amounts of solvents (benzyl alcohol, propylene carbonate, alcohols, phenoxyethanol, etc.). It has now been found that all buffer systems relying on the use of organic acids (such as citric acid, etc.) can tend to crystallize, especially in the present formula containing solvents. When an essential part of the buffer system crystallizes, it is no longer available to contribute to the equilibrium between acids and bases, which is the basic condition of the buffer effect, and the buffer capacity can decrease.
    It has therefore been the object of the present invention to provide dyestuffs based on direct acting dyes which can be precisely and reproducibly adjusted to the desired pH value without the disadvantages described hereinbefore. Above all, the pH value of the coloring agent should not change, even during long-term storage.
    In addition, the pH value of the coloring agent should not be influenced in an unpredictable way either by the use of raw materials of different quality or specification, or by the use of water (x) whose hardness would be different.
    Finally, the coloring agents created in this way should be suitable for all types of packaging, including for support systems with high solvent content and for use in the form of an aerosol.
    Surprisingly, it has been found that a long-term, accurate and reproducible adjustment of the pH value of the coloring agent is possible when a perfectly inorganic buffer system is used to adjust the pH value. ie d. a mixture of an inorganic acid and the inorganic salt corresponding to this acid.
    In formulas containing solvents in particular, no phenomenon of crystallization has been observed when using perfectly inorganic buffer systems, so that the pH value has not been altered and remained stable after several months of storage at different temperatures.
    A first subject of the present invention is an agent for coloring fibers containing keratin, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic vehicle (a) at least one direct dye and (b) an inorganic buffer system consisting of at least one inorganic acid (b1) and at least one inorganic salt thereof (b2) and (c) water.
    By fibers containing keratin, keratin-based fiber or keratin fiber, we mean materials such as furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair. Although the agent according to the invention is primarily suitable for the lightening and staining of keratin fibers, in principle, nothing prevents its use in other areas.
    The characteristic of the product according to the invention is firstly its content of essential ingredients (a), (b) and (c). The product according to the invention contains at least one direct dye (a) as the first essential ingredient.
    The direct-acting dye (s) may preferably be present in the coloring agent in an amount of from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, preferably from 0.08 to 4.7% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 3.4% by weight and most preferably 0.3 to 1.8% by weight. As such, the basis of calculation for the total amount of direct acting dyes (a) refers to the total weight of the coloring agent.
    The direct-acting dyes (a) can be divided into dyes that mount directly into the hair fiber of anionic, cationic and nonionic nature. The direct-acting dyes are preferably selected from nitrophenylene diamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols and their physiologically compatible salts.
    Dyes carrying only cationic charges are also generally referred to as basic dyes. Dyes bearing exclusively anionic fillers are referred to by those skilled in the art as acid dyes.
    Anionic dyes react particularly sensitively to changes in the pH value; it is therefore particularly advantageous to use in the products according to the invention at least one direct acting anionic dye in combination with the inorganic buffer system (b).
    In a particularly preferred embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a) at least one direct acting anionic dye.
    In the context of the present invention, the terms anionic dye and acid dye are used as synonyms. Among the anionic dyes or acid dyes is meant direct acting dyes which have at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or at least one sulphonic acid group (-SO3H). Depending on the pH value, the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO 3 H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO ', -SO3'). The proportion of protonated forms increases as the pH value decreases. If direct acting dyes are used as salts, the carbolyxic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups are in deprotonated form and are neutralized to maintain electroneutrality, using stoichiometric equivalents. corresponding cations (such as, for example, a sodium cation or potassium cations). Anionic dye bears no cationic charge.
    For example, it is possible to select, as suitable acidic dyes, one or more of the following groups: Acid Yellow 1 (D & C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext D & C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403 , Cl 10316, COLIPA No. B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA No. C 54, D & C Yellow No. 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (Cl 13015), Acid Yellow 17 ( Cl 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA No. C 29, Covacap Yellow W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD & C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (Cl 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (Cl 18690), Orange Acid 6 (Cl 14270), Orange Acid 7 (Orange 2-Naphthol, Orange II, Cl 15510, Orange D & C 4, COLIPA No. C015) , Orange Acid 10 (Cl 16230, Orange G sodium), Acid Orange 11 (Cl 45370), Acid Orange 15 (Cl 50120), Acid Orange 20 (Cl 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1, CI 20170, KATSU201; Nosodiumsalt, Brown No. 201, RESORCIN BROWN, ACID ORANGE 24, Japan Brown 201, D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (C.I.14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; Cl 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, Cl 16185, C-Rot 46, bright red D, FD & C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, red naphthol S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, fuchsia red, D & C Red 33, Cl 17200), Acid Red 35 (Cl Cl 18065), Acid Red 51 (Cl 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, Lodeosin), Acid Red 52 (Cl 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red No. 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (Cl Cl 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, Cl 45380), Acid Red 95 (Cl 45425, Erythtosine.Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (Cl 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext D & C Violet No. 2, Cl 60730, COLIPA No. C063), Acid Violet 49 (Cl 42640), Acid Violet 50 (Cl. 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Blue Patent, Cl 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blue Blau, Cl 42051), Acid Blue 7 (Cl 42080), Acid Blue 104 (Cl 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patentblau AE, Amidoblau AE, Erioglaucin A, Cl 42090, Cl Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (Cl 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, Cl 73015), Acid Blue 80 (Cl 61585), Acid Gr een 3 (Cl 42085, Foodgreenl), Acid Green 5 (Cl 42095), Acid
    Green 9 (C.1.42100), Acid Green 22 (C.1.42170), Acid Green 25 (Cl 61570, Japan Green 201, D & C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (brilliant green BS, Cl 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black No. 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 470, COLIPA No. B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Green 5, D & C Orange 10, D & C Orange 11, D & C Red 21, D & C Red 27, D & C Red 33, D & C Purple 2 and / or D & C Brown 1.
    In another particularly preferred embodiment, the product according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a) at least one direct acting anionic dye from the group consisting of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D & C Yellow 7, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Orange 4, D & C Green 5, D & C Orange 10, D & D C Orange 11, D & C Red 21, D & C Red 27, D & C Red 33, D & C Violet 2 and D & C Brown 1.
    The acid dye (s) (a) may (vent) preferably be present in the coloring agent in an amount of from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, preferably from 0.08 to 4, 7% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 3.4% by weight and most preferably 0.3 to 1.8% by weight. As such, the basis of calculation for the total amount of acid dyes refers to the total weight of the coloring agent.
    The pH value of the product according to the invention is adjusted by the addition of an inorganic buffer system (b). By inorganic buffer system (b) within the meaning of the present invention is meant a mixture of an inorganic acid (b1) and its corresponding conjugated inorganic base (b2). A coloring agent containing a buffer system according to the invention thus contains both the inorganic acid (b1) and also at least one corresponding inorganic salt of this acid (b2).
    Examples of inorganic acids (b1): sulfuric acid (H2SO4), hydrochloric acid (HCl) and phosphoric acid (H3PO4). Phosphoric acid is a moderate acid, which is particularly preferable.
    To determine the effectiveness of a buffer, it is possible to rely on its buffer capacity.
    A buffer capacity of 1 corresponds to a buffer solution whose pH value changes by one unit when adding one mole of acid or base per liter of buffer solution.
    In the course of the work leading up to the present invention, it has been found that the coloring agents have a particularly high buffer capacity when the acid (b1) and its corresponding salt (b2) are used in molar ratios determined so optimal relative to each other. In this context, it is particularly preferred that the inorganic acid (b1) and the salt (s) of the inorganic acid (b2) be used in a molar ratio (b1) / (b2) of 1:15 at 15: 1, preferably 1:10 to 10: 1, more preferably 1: 5 to 5: 1 and most preferably 1: 3 to 1: 1.
    In other words, it has proved most preferable that the inorganic acid (b1) and the salt (s) (b2) be used either in approximately the same total molar amounts, or that the salts (b2) are surplus in the product with respect to the acid (b1), in a molar ratio ranging from one to three. As such, for the basis of calculating the molar ratio (b1) to (b2) - i.e. (b1) / (b2) - the total molar amount of the inorganic acid (s) (b1) contained in the product, related to the quantity, is respectively based on molar total of all the corresponding salts (b2) contained in the product.
    Example: 100 g of the product according to the invention contain, as inorganic buffer system (b1) 0.9 g of phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) 1.5 g of sodium dihydrogenphosphate (NaH2PO4) as well as 1.5 g of potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) molar mass of phosphoric acid (H3PO4) = 97.95 g / mol molar mass of sodium dihydrogenphosphate (NaH2PO4) = 119.92 g / mol molar mass of potassium dihydrogenphosphate ( ΚΗ2Ρθ4) = 136.032 g / mol 100 g of the product according to the invention contain (b1) 0.00918 mol of phosphoric acid (= 9.2 mmol) and (b2) 0.0125 mol of sodium dihydrogenphosphate (12.5 g). mmol) and 0.011 mol (11.0 mmol) of potassium dihydrogen phosphate
    The molar ratio (b1) / (b2) in the pupil product to [(0.00918 mol) / (0.0125 mol + 0.011 mol)] = [0.00918 mol / 0.0235] = 1: 2 6
    In another particularly preferable embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that it contains the inorganic acid (b1) and the salt (s) of the inorganic acid (b2) in a molar ratio. (b1) / (b2) ranging from 1:15 to 15: 1, preferably from 1:10 to 10: 1, more preferably from 1: 5 to 5: 1 and most preferably from 1: 3 to 1: 1.
    The pH value at which the product according to the invention is parameterized depends on the amount of the inorganic acid used in the product. It has been found that it is particularly possible to obtain satisfactory results when the product contains - relative to its total weight - one or more inorganic acid (s) (b1) in a total amount ranging from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.%, Preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%, More preferably 0.4 to 1.8 wt.%, And more preferably 0.5 to 1.2 wt. in weight.
    In another particularly preferable embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - relative to the total weight of the product - (b1) one or more inorganic acid (s) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 1.8% by weight and most preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight. , 2% by weight.
    In addition, the refined parameterization of the pH value, the buffer capacity and the stability of the pH value are also substantially influenced by the amount of the corresponding salts (b2) of the inorganic acids. In this context, it was particularly advantageous for the product according to the invention to contain, relative to its total weight, one or more salt (s) of the inorganic acid (s) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.5% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 0 to 3.2% by weight.
    In another particularly preferable embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - relative to the total weight of the product - (b2) one or more salt (s) of inorganic acid (s) ( s) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.5% by weight and can no longer be preferably from 1.0 to 3.2% by weight.
    It has been found that the phosphate buffer constitutes a particularly suitable inorganic buffer system (b). Phosphoric acid dissociates on three levels:
    The three pK values of phosphoric acid clearly show that the proton distribution becomes more difficult after each level. H3PO4 is a medium level acid, while H2PO4 · is a weak acid and HP042 'is a very weak acid.
    For the purposes of the present invention, phosphate buffer is very preferably intended to mean an inorganic buffer system which contains (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) at least one inorganic phosphate salt derived from the group consisting of dihydrogenphosphate. of potassium (KH2PO4), sodium dihydrogenphosphate (NaH2PO4), potassium hydrogen phosphate (K2HPO4), sodium hydrogen phosphate (Na2HPO4), potassium phosphate (K3PO4) and sodium phosphate (Na3PO4). The person skilled in the art also selects the quantity and nature of the salts (b2) as a function of the precisely desired pH value. In particular, the use of phosphate buffer has been found to be suitable for adjusting pH values in the acid range. In the acidic range, starting from phosphoric acid (H 3 PO 4), the first dissociation into the dihydrogen phosphate salt (H 2 PO 4 ') is carried out so that for these acid pH values in particular, the phosphoric acid is in equilibrium with the corresponding dihydrogen phosphate salt.
    It is therefore particularly and explicitly preferable to use (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) at least one phosphate salt from the group consisting of potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) and sodium dihydrogenphosphate (Na2HPO4). .
    It is therefore particularly preferable an agent for staining fibers containing keratin, especially human hair, containing in a cosmetic vehicle (a) at least one direct-acting anionic dye and (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) at least one phosphate salt from the group consisting of potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) and sodium dihydrogenphosphate (Na2HPO4) and (c) water.
    In other words, it is no longer preferable that an agent for coloring fibers containing keratin, in particular human hair, contains in a cosmetic support a) at least one direct-acting anionic dye and (b) ) an inorganic buffer system consisting of (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) at least one phosphate salt from the group consisting of potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) and sodium dihydrogenphosphate (NahfePC ^) and (c) water.
    In particular, (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) and / or sodium dihydrogenphosphate (NaH2PO4) are used with each other particularly preferably in molar ratios. determined from 1: 5 to 5: 1, preferably from 1: 3 to 3: 1 and most preferably from 1: 3 to 1: 1.
    The basis for calculating the molar ratio (b1) on (b2) - i.e. (b1) / (b2) - is here also the total molar amount of the inorganic acid (b1) contained in the product, related to the total molar amount of all the corresponding salts (b2) contained in the product.
    In a particularly preferred embodiment, a product according to the invention for dyeing fibers containing keratin is characterized in that it contains (b) an inorganic buffer system consisting of (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) at least one phosphate salt from the group consisting of potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) and sodium dihydrogenphosphate (Na2HPO4), the product containing inorganic acid (b1) and the salt (s) of the inorganic acid (b2) in a molar ratio (b1) / (b2) of from 1: 5 to 5: 1, preferably from 1: 3 to 3: 1, most preferably from 1: 3 to 1: 1.
    It is therefore particularly preferable an agent for staining fibers containing keratin, especially human hair, containing in a cosmetic vehicle (a) at least one direct-acting anionic dye and (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) at least one phosphate salt from the group consisting of potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) and sodium dihydrogenphosphate (Na2HPO4) and (c) water, the product containing inorganic acid (b1) and the the salt (s) of the inorganic acid (b2) in a molar ratio (b1) / (b2) ranging from 1: 5 to 5: 1.
    In addition, it is particularly preferable to use an agent for staining fibers containing keratin, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic vehicle (a) at least one direct-acting anionic dye and (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4). and (b2) at least one phosphate salt from the group consisting of potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) and sodium dihydrogenphosphate (Na2HPO4) and (c) water, the product containing inorganic acid (b1) and the salt (s) of the inorganic acid (b2) in a molar ratio (b1) / (b2) ranging from 1: 3 to 3: 1.
    It is also particularly and explicitly preferable to use an agent for staining fibers containing keratin, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic vehicle (a) at least one direct-acting anionic dye and (b1) phosphoric acid ( H3PO4) and (b2) at least one phosphate salt from the group consisting of potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) and sodium dihydrogenphosphate (Na2HPO4) and (c) water, the product containing inorganic acid (b1 ) and the salt (s) of the inorganic acid (b2) in a molar ratio (b1) / (b2) ranging from 1: 3 to 1: 1.
    In other words, it is explicitly and most preferably that an agent for staining fibers containing keratin, in particular human hair, contains in a cosmetic carrier (a) at least one direct acting anionic dye and (b) an inorganic buffer system consisting of (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) at least one phosphate salt from the group consisting of potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) and sodium dihydrogenphosphate (NaH2PO4). ) and (c) water, the product containing inorganic acid (b1) and the salt (s) of the inorganic acid (b2) in a molar ratio (b1) / (b2) ranging from 1: 3 to 1: 1.
    As previously described, organic acids and / or salts of organic acids - especially in coloring agents having a high proportion of solvent and having a pH value considered as acid - may tend to crystallize, to a greater or lesser extent. high. Thus, after a few months after the addition of a mixture of citric acid and sodium citrate to the coloring agents, it was possible, for example, to observe the formation of crystalline solid fractions. This crystallisation effect causes the undesired modification of the pH value on the one hand, but also alters the aesthetics of the visual appearance of the coloring agent - essentially at the level where the crystals are deposited on the fiber-based of keratin - and may further cause loss of homogeneity on the result of the color. For this reason, it is preferable not to use organic acids to determine the pH value and to give up the use as much as possible in the coloring agents.
    In another particularly preferable embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that (d) the total content of all the organic carboxylic acids having 1 to 8 carbon atoms and their salts contained in the product - by weight total product - remains less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.05% by weight.
    By organic acids having 1 to 8 carbon atoms is meant all compounds which have at least one carbon atom and at most 8 carbon atoms and which contain at least one carboxylic group (or their salts). Thus, this definition includes all alkanoid acids (ie, acetic acid, propionic acid, butanoic acid, etc.). In addition, this definition also cuts across all the substitution acids, i.e. all compounds which have, for example, a hydroxyl group and / or an amino group in addition to the carboxylic group. Food acids, such as citric acid, tartaric acid, etc. and aromatic acids such as benzoic acid are also included in this definition. The definition also includes all the salts of the aforementioned acids, since the salts also tend to crystallize.
    Example: When a product contains (d1) 0.05% by weight of citric acid (d2) 0.1% by weight of lactic acid (d3) 0.05% by weight of sodium citrate and (d4) 0.05% by weight of sodium lactate, then (d) the total content of all the carboxylic acids having 1 to 8 carbon atoms and their salts contained in the product is 0.25% by weight
    In another particularly preferred embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that (d) the total content of all the organic acids contained in the product, originating from the group consisting of citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, malonic acid, oxalic acid, mandelic acid and salts of these acids - based on the total weight of the product - less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight and can not be more preferably less than 0.05% by weight.
    Citric acid (alternative name: 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid) is understood to be the D-form of the acid, the L-form of the acid as well as compounds thereof.
    By lactic acid (alternative names: 2-hydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypropionic acid) is meant the D-form of the acid, the L-form of the acid as well as compounds thereof. Malic acid (alternative names: 2-hydroxybutanedioic acid, α-hydroxysuccinic acid) is in the form of R - (+) as well as its S - (-) form. Each of these forms as well as their mixtures are relevant according to the invention. Maleic acid is also referred to as 2-butenedioic acid; it is referenced under the number CAS 110-16-7. The physiologically compatible and suitable maleic acid salts are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt. Tartaric acid (alternative names: 2,3-dihydroxybutanedioic acid, 2,3-dihydroxy succinic acid) is presented in three stereoisomeric forms: L - (+) enantiomer tetric acid and D - (-) tartaric acid as well as the optically inactive mesoform. According to the invention, each of them is a stereoisomeric form of tartaric acid and its compounds. Glycolic acid is also referred to as hydroxyacetic acid and is referred to as CAS 79-14-1. Succinic acid is also referred to as butanedioic acid; it is referenced under the number CAS 110-15-6.
    The term fumaric acid is the common name for trans-butenedioic acid. The fumaric acid is referenced under the CAS number 110-17-8. The physiologically compatible and suitable fumaric acid salts are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt. Malonic acid is also referred to as 1,3-propanedioic acid; it is referenced under the number CAS 141-82-2. The physiologically compatible and suitable malonic acid salts are the disodium salt, the dipotassium salt. Oxalic acid is also referred to as ethanedioic acid, or sorrel salt; it is referenced under the number CAS 144-62-7. Mandelic acid is also referred to as 2-phenyl-2-hydroxyacetic acid and is referred to as CAS 90-64-2 [mandelic acid (RS)], 611-71-2 [mandelic acid (R) )] and 17199-29-0 [mandelic acid (S)]. Mandelic acid is in the form of two stereoisomers, mandelic acid (R) and (S). According to the invention, each of them is a stereoisomeric form of mandelic acid and its compounds.
    It is preferable to use none of the organic acids previously mentioned in the product according to the invention.
    Depending on the type of direct acting dyes (neutral, cationic or anionic) to be used in the product according to the invention, the pH value will preferably be acidic, neutral or basic. It is preferable to establish an acid pH value for the products according to the invention. It is particularly preferred that the pH value of the products be in the range of from 1.0 to 5.5, preferably from 1.8 to 4.9, more preferably from 2.3 to 4.8, and can not be more preferably from 2.5 to 3.4.
    In another particularly preferable embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that it has a pH value in a range from 1.0 to 5.5, preferably from 1.8 to 4.9, more preferably 2.3 to 4.8 and most preferably 2.5 to 3.4.
    The measurement of the pH value can for example be carried out using a glass electrode, which is generally in the form of a measuring chain. The pH values of the present invention are measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
    The inorganic buffer systems previously described are particularly suitable for use in formulas containing water (c) but also at least one penetration enhancer or solvent. In this context, the terms solvent and penetration enhancer are used synonymously, as generally all penetration enhancers can also function as the solvent. Examples of suitable solvents are propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol and / or benzyl alcohol.
    In another particularly preferred embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that it additionally contains (e) at least one solvent originating from the group consisting of propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol, 2- phenoxyethane-1-ol and / or benzyl alcohol.
    It is particularly advantageous that the coloring agent according to the invention contains at least one solvent from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol and / or benzyl alcohol. The use of one or more solvents from this group makes it possible to reinforce the color test of the acid dye in an overprotective manner. In addition, it has been found that the characteristics of authenticity of the colorations allowed by the product according to the invention are improved.
    In the case of benzyl alcohol, it is an aromatic alcohol of formula (I), in the case of 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol, it is an aromatic alcohol of formula (II) .
    If the keratin fibers are stained with a product containing at least one of the two aromatic alcohols, following dyeing with direct acting dyes, stains are obtained which are distinguished by very good masking properties. gray hair. These colorations also have a remarkable resistance to washing.
    The propylene carbonate solvent is also particularly suitable for use in the product according to the invention. Propylene carbonate is also referred to as 4-methyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-one; it has the structure of formula (III). (III)
    The inorganic buffer system (b) has a particular advantage in that it is characterized by the absence of crystallization during its use, including after a long storage time and even in case of large amounts of solvent in the product according to the invention.
    The product according to the invention contains the solvent (s) (e) preferably in specific total amounts, in ranges from 0.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 17.0%. by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 14.0% by weight and most preferably from 8.5 to 12.5% by weight. As such, all quantity indications refer to the total amount of all solvents (e) included in the product, which are related to the total weight of the product.
    In another particularly preferable embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - relative to the total weight of the product - one or more solvents in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 20.0% by weight. weight, preferably from 1.0 to 17.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 14.0% by weight and most preferably from 8.5 to 12.5% by weight. The use of the inorganic buffer system (b) according to the invention makes it possible to reliably and for the long term determine the desired pH value. As such, even variations in the quality and technical characteristics of the other ingredients additionally added to the coloring agent can not have a negative influence on the pH value.
    The inorganic buffer system (b) has another particular advantage of being able to overcome any significant influence of the degree of hardness of the water used for the production of the agent. As a general rule, for cost reasons, the production of coloring agents does not use distilled water, but uses running water available at the production site. Depending on the degree of hardness of the water in the region in question, the water may contain different amounts of dissolved salts, which may influence the pH value of the agent. The use of the inorganic buffer system (b) according to the invention makes it possible to block this influence.
    The term hardness of water refers to the equivalent concentration of alkaline earth metal ions dissolved in water. The main elements responsible for water hardness are calcium and magnesium ions, as well as strontium and barium ions, which are normally present only in the form of traces. Hardness agents may be insoluble compounds, mainly limestone and calcareous soaps. Hard water usually comes from areas with calcareous or siliceous soils.
    The total hardness of water indicates the sum of the concentrations of the alkaline earth metal cations in the water. The main part of the hardness of water, which has a decisive influence on its pH value, comes from the carbon hardness, caused by the dissolution of limestone (CaCO 3) or dolomite (formation of calcium carbonate and magnesium) by carbonic acid, forming soluble bicarbonates (HC03-).
    In terms of water hardness, the concentration of bicarbonate anion (HCCV) is of particular importance. The concentration of bicarbonate ions or the equivalent portion of the alkaline earth metal ions is referred to as carbonated hardness or temporary hardness.
    The practicable and best known determination method for the total hardness is the complexometric titration using an aqueous solution of disodium salt of ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA, trade name: Titriplex III) whose concentration is known. . With hardness agents Ca2 + and Mg2 +, EDTA forms stable and soluble chelation complexes. 100 ml of the samples of water to be analyzed are, for example, mixed with 2 ml of 25% ammonia solution, a pH 11 buffer (ammonia-ammonium acetate) and the black Eriochrome T indicator. The indicator is attached to the buffer as a product called a "buffer-stamp." The indicator, when masked by a yellow dye, forms a red-colored complex with Ca2 + and Mg2 +. At the end of the EDTA titration, the Eriochrome black T is released and is colored green.When the indicator is not hidden, the color change is from magenta to blue.The total hardness is calculated from the volume In a 100 ml sample of water, 1 ml of EDTA solution consumed (c = 0.1 mol / l) corresponds to 5.6 ° dH (German degrees of hardness), which corresponds to 1 mmol / l of alkaline earth ions, in order to separately highlight the concentration of calcium and magnesium sium, in the case of a low pH of 8, a titration of Ca2 + by EDTA will first be carried out, because at this pH level the magnesium-EDTA complex is not yet stable. The pH will then be adjusted to 11 at the calcium transition point and titrated against Mg2 +. According to the International System of Units, the content of the alkaline earth ions, ie the total hardness, is expressed in moles per liter or milimole per liter (mmol / l) because of the concentrations. In Germany, the hardness of the water is usually expressed in German hardness degrees (° dH), which can be calculated using the following formula (mg / l): ° dH = 0.14 x [value calcium in mg / l] + 0.23 x [magnesium value in mg / l]
    In another particularly preferable embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that it (c) contains water whose degree of hardness (° dH) is at least 9.3, preferably d at least 9.3, more preferably at least 11.3 and most preferably at least 14.3, the degree of hardness of the water being calculated using the following formula (mg of calcium and magnesium per liter of water): ° dH = 0.14 x [calcium value in mg / l] + 0.23 x [magnesium value in mg / l]
    The product according to the invention can be manufactured in several forms. It can therefore be used in the form of a gel, an emulsion, a solution or in the form of a coloring foam. Color foams are an ideal and comfortable application for consumers. The product may for example be manufactured in the form of an aerosol for obtaining a coloring foam. The manufacture in the form of an aerosol involves the use of a spray nozzle with a valve and is therefore particularly sensitive to the problem of crystal formation.
    An aerosol is a spraying system in which a substance or a liquid is in finely dispersed form in a gas. In general, the aerosol is generated by itself, only during use, using a suitable spraying system for solutions, emulsions or suspensions, aerosol cans that may for example be used for this purpose, in which a liquefied compressed gas acts as a propellant. When the discharge valve opens, the propellant and preparation mixture escapes through a narrow nozzle, the propellant volatilises and delivers the finely dispersed spray product as an aerosol or foam.
    As previously described, in the case of buffer systems based on the use of food acids, such as, for example, citric acid and their corresponding bases, a crystallization phenomenon may occur after a certain time. If citric acid or citrate salt crystallizes from the dye in the aerosol flask, if the coloring agent passes through the nozzle, they may clog the valve and thus prevent future use of the coloring agent. The use of the buffer system (b) according to the invention in the coloring agent prevents the phenomenon of crystallization; in this way, it also makes it possible to manufacture the coloring agent in the form of a foam, in the form of an aerosol.
    In the case of manufacture in aerosol form, the agent according to the invention further contains at least one additional propellant gas. Suitable propellants that can be used are, for example, dimethyl ether, propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, isopentane and / or 'isopentene.
    In another particularly preferred embodiment, a product according to the invention is characterized in that it additionally contains (f) one or more other propellants, selected from the group consisting of dimethyl ether, propane, propene, n-butane, n-butene, n-pentane, n-pentene, isopentane and isopentene.
    In addition, it has been found preferable that the propellants (f) are also present in the composition in specific amount ranges. In a preferable embodiment, a product according to the invention contains - relative to the total weight of the composition including the propellant gas - one or more other propellants (f), namely in a total amount ranging from 1 to 10% by weight. weight, preferably from 2 to 9% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 8% by weight and most preferably from 4 to 7% by weight.
    The product according to the invention further contains additional active ingredients, adjuvants and additives in order to improve the coloring performance and to define other desirable properties of the product.
    Preferably, the products will be manufactured as liquid preparations and another surfactant will optionally be added to the products, these surfactants being referred to as surfactants or emulsifiers depending on the field of application. They are preferably selected from anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and from emulsifiers.
    The appropriate products according to the invention are characterized in that the product additionally contains at least one anionic surfactant. Preferable anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in a molecule. The anionic surfactants are used in portions ranging from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and, more preferably, from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the product.
    The appropriate products according to the invention are characterized in that the product additionally contains at least one zwitterionic surfactant. The preferable zwitterionic surfactants are betaine, N, N-dimethyl N-alkyl ammonium glycinate, Ν, N-dimethyl N-acyl-aminopropyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3- hydroxyethyl-imidazoline. A preferable zwitterionic surfactant is known as cocamidopropyl betaine (INCI: Cocamidopropyl Betaine).
    The appropriate products according to the invention are characterized in that the product additionally contains at least one amphoteric surfactant. The preferred amphoteric surfactants are n-alkyl glycine, n-alkyl propionic acids, n-alkyl amino-butyric acids, n-alkyl amino-propionic acids, n-hydroxyethyl-n-alkyl aminopropyl glycine, n-alkyl taurine, n-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acids and alkyl aminoacetic acids. The most preferable amphoteric surfactants are n-alkyl coconut aminopropionate, coco sacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C12-C18 acyl sarcosine.
    It has furthermore been found advantageous that the products contain other nonionic surfactant substances. The preferable nonionic surfactants are the alkylpolyglycosides as well as the alkylene oxide adducts on fatty alcohols and fatty acids comprising respectively 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or of acid. fat turned out. Preparations with exceptional properties are also preserved when they contain, as nonionic surfactants, ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters.
    The nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are used in portions ranging from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and, more preferably, from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the amount total product.
    It has also been found advantageous that the products contain at least one thickening agent. With regard to these thickeners, no restriction of principle is to be reported. The organic or purely inorganic nature of these thickening agents does not come into play in their use.
    Suitable thickeners are synthetic anionic polymers; cationic synthetic polymers; thickening agents of natural origin, such as guar gums, scleroglucan or non-ionic xanthan gums, gum arabic, gum ghatti, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar-agar, locust bean gum, pectin, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives, for example methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; fully synthetic, nonionic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidone; as well as inorganic thickeners, especially layered silicates such as for example bentonite, particularly smectites such as montmorillonite or hectorite.
    The product according to the invention may also contain anionic polymeric thickeners. Suitable compounds are for example selected from crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, which contain at least two different monomers from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, C1-C6 alkyl esters of the acid acrylic acid and / or C1-C6 alkyl esters of methacrylic acid. The most preferable anionic copolymers are the copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C 1 -C 6 alkyl esters, which are sold under the INCI name "Acrylates Copolymer". Particularly preferable is the combination of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, as well as multifunctional crosslinked monomers, where appropriate. As such, Aculyn® 33 or 33A, marketed by Rohm & Haas, for example, is a preferable commercial product.
    In addition, the product according to the invention may contain one or more polymers of the group consisting of Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-3, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquatenium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8 , Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Poly-quaternium-28, Polyquaternium-32 , Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-37,
    Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-53, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquarternium-64, Polyquaternium-67, Poly-quaternium-68, Polyquaternium-69 and / or Polyquaternium-86.
    In one embodiment, the products according to the invention may also contain one or more cationic surfactant (s). According to the invention, all the cationic surfactants generally known to those skilled in the art can be used as cationic surfactants. Among these are: - a quaternary imidazoline compound. The Quimi-I formula shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
    Quimi-I
    The residues R represent, independently of one another, respectively a linear or branched hydrocarbon residue, saturated or unsaturated, with a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferable compounds of formula I contain for R respectively the same hydrocarbon residue. The chain length of residues R is preferably from 12 to 21 carbon atoms. The relevant examples according to the invention are for example available under the names Inci Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. cationic tentioactives according to the formula (Tkat-2),
    (Tkat-2)
    Here, R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl or alkylene residue having 11 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain, X is -O- or -NR5-, R1 is an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which may be unsubstituted or substituted, the substitution being in this case preferably carried out with a group -OH - or -NH-, R2, R3 represent, each independently of one another, an alkyl group or hydroxyalkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms in the chain, the chain being straight or branched. R5 represents hydrogen or a straight or branched chain alkyl or alkylene residue having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which may also be substituted by a hydroxyl group.
    Within this structural category, the compounds of one of the following structures will preferably be used:
    A '(Tkat-3) A' (Tkat-4) A '(Tkat-5) A' (Tkat-6)
    Examples of commercial products of this type include
    Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE. - Esterquats used according to the formula (Tkat1-2).
    (Tkat1-2)
    Here, the residues R1, R2 and R3 are respectively independent of each other and may be identical or different. The residues R 1, R 2 and R 3 denote: a branched or unbranched alkyl residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl residue, saturated or unsaturated cyclic, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or an aryl or an alkaryl residue, for example phenyl or benzyl, the residue (- A - R4) , provided that at most two of the residues R1, R2 or R3 can represent this residue:
    The residue - (A - R4) is present at least one to three times.
    Here A is: 1) - (CH2) n- with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and most preferably n = 1 to 5, or 2) - (CH2-CHR5-O) n- with n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, most preferably 1 to 50 and most preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 being hydrogen, methyl or ethyl and R 4 is: 1) R 6 -0 -CO-, where R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, or saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, and in addition, may optionally be oxyethylenated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units, or 2) R7-CO-, where R7 is a saturated alkyl residue or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, or saturated or unsaturated cyclically having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, and which, in addition, may optionally be o xyethylenated with 1 to 100 units of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 100 units of propylene oxide, and Q is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion.
    These products are for example marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat®, Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocare®. Armocare® products VGH-70, N, N-Bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU-35, Rewoquat® WE18, Rewoquat® WE38 DPG and Stepantex® VS 90 are examples of such esterquats. Other compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) that are highly preferable according to the invention belong to the formula (Tkat1-2.1), to cationic betaine esters.
    (Tkat1-2.1)
    The meaning of R8 is R7. - Monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts with a chain length of the alkyl residue of 16 to 24 carbon atoms corresponding to the formula (Tkatl-1).
    (Tkat1-1) wherein R1, R2 and R3 respectively represent a methyl group and R4 represents a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl residue with a chain length of 16 to 24
    Carbon atoms. Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and the like. behenyltrimethylammonium methosulphate. - Amine and / or cationized amine, especially an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine with the following structural formulas:
    (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) where R1 represents an acyl or alkyl residue containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and the acyl and / or alkyl residue may contain at least one OH group, and R2, R3 and R4 represent, respectively independently of each other hydrogen or an alkyl residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may be the same or different, saturated or not -saturated, and X 'represents an anion and n represents an integer between 1 and 10. A composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to the general formula (Tkat7) and / or ( Tkat8) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, wherein R1 represents a branched or unbranched acyl residue, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group. A fatty acid residue derived from oils and waxes, especially oils and natural waxes, is preferred here. As such, we will mention for example lanolin, beeswax or candelilla. Also preferred are amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines wherein R2, R3 and / or R4, in formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8), represent a residue according to the general formula CH2CH2OR5, where R5 may have the meaning of residues alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferable size of n in the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5. In addition, amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines of the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or Tkat8), in which the X "anion is a halide ion or a compound of the general formula RS03", wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl residues having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The alkyl residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of R2, R3 and R4 and / or the alkyl residue having RSO3 'carbon atoms in the general formula (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) may contain at least one hydroxyl group . The alkylamidoamines may also be present as such, and by protonation in a corresponding acid solution, be converted to a quaternary compound in the composition. The cationic alkylamidoamines are preferable according to the invention.
    For example, the amidoamines to be used according to the invention, which may optionally be quaternized, are taken into account: Witcamine® 100 (Witco, INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine), Incromine® BB (Croda, INCI name: Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine ), Mackine® 401 (Mclntyre, INCI name: Isostearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine) and other mackin type, Adogen® S18V (Witco, INCI name: Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine), and as a permanent cationic aminoamine: Rewoquat® RTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH INCI name: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate), Empigen® CSC (Albright & Wilson, INCI name: Cocamidopropyltrimonium Chlorid),
    Swanol® Lanoquat DES-50 (Nikko, INCI name: Quatemium-33), Rewoquat® UTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, Undecyleneamidopropyl-trimonium Methosulfate). The anion of all the anionic compounds described above is selected from physiologically compatible anions. For example, mention may be made of halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide and sulfate of the general formula RSO 3 ', where R represents saturated or unsaturated alkyl residues containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or residues anionic organic acids such as maleic acid, fumaric acid, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate. The cationic imidazoline, the esterquats, the cationic surfactants according to the formula (Tkat-2) as well as the amine and / or the cationized amine, especially the amidoamine and / or the cationized amidoamine, will preferably be used.
    The above-mentioned cationic surfactants can be used singly or together in any combination, the amounts containing from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. The best possible results are then obtained with amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, respectively, based on the total composition of the product concerned.
    The surfactants are used in total amount of surfactants ranging from 0.05 to 45% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight and it can no longer more preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, based on the totality of the surfactants. of the product used according to the invention.
    The cationic surfactants are used in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and, more preferably, from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the product.
    In addition, the products according to the invention may contain other active ingredients, additives and additives, such as, for example, nonionic polymers, for example copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxane; additional silicones such as volatile or non-volatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polyalkylsiloxanes (such as dimethicone or cyclomethicone), polyarylsiloxane and / or polyalkylarylsiloxane, in particular the polysiloxane containing organic groups; functional groups, such as substituted or unsubstituted amines (amodimethicone), carboxyl, alkoxyl and / or hydroxyl groups (dimethiconecopolyols), linear block copolymers a) polysiloxane b) polyoxyalkylene, grafted silicone polymers; cationic polymers such as quaternary cellulose ether, polysiloxane having quaternary groups, dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride polymers, copolymers of acrylamide dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride, with dimethylamino copolymers, ethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone rendered quaternary by diethyl sulfate, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidinonimidazolinium methochloride and quaternary polyvinyl alcohol; zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers; anionic polymers such as, for example, polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids; fats such as, for example, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons or natural oils and fats; structuring agents such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid; hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalin; scented oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrin; active principles improving the fibrous structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, for example glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar, or lactose; dyes to color the product; anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates of animal and / or vegetable origin, as well as in the form of fatty acid condensation products or, where appropriate, their anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; photoprotective agents and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol; polyphenols, especially hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarines, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechol, tannins, leucoanthocyanidin, anthocyanidin, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; vegetable extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffin wax; swelling agents or penetrating agents such as glycerine, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidine, ureas as well as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifying agents, such as latex, copolymers of styrene and PVP, and styrene and acrylamide; pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol monostearate and distearate or PEG-3 distearate and pigments. Those skilled in the art will select these other substances according to the desired properties of the product. With regard to other optional components as well as the quantities used of these components, reference is expressly made to corresponding manuals known to those skilled in the art. The additional active ingredients and adjuvants are used in the product according to the invention in respective amounts ranging from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, especially from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the product concerned.
    It is explicitly no longer preferable that the production of the product according to the invention takes place in the form of an aerosol.
    A second subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic product comprising a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention, which is packaged in a pressurized container (aerosol), the pressurized container (aerosol) having a valve dispensing device. spray (aerosol).
    The cosmetic product of the second subject of the invention comprises a pressure tank (aerosol). Tanks made of metal (aluminum, tinplate, tin), protected or unbreakable synthetic material, or glass coated with an outer layer of synthetic material can be considered as pressurized containers, the choice of these materials being influenced resistance to pressure and breakage, corrosion resistance, ease of filling as well as aesthetic aspects, ease of use, the possibility of printing, etc. Special internal protective coatings guarantee the corrosion protection against the preparation contained in the pressure tank (aerosol).
    It is particularly advantageous for the internal pressure of the pressure vessel (aerosol) to be at least 1.8 bar, in particular at least 2.5 bar.
    The product further comprises an aerosol dispensing device which has a spray valve for dispensing the aerosol. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the spray valve has a valve head coated with varnish or polymeric synthetic material A and a flexible element having a return characteristic, such that the valve returns to the closed position (= position rest of the valve) once the operation is completed. According to the invention, the corresponding cosmetic products are preferred, in which the aerosol dispensing device comprises a valve which comprises a cone and / or a flexible element having a return characteristic, which are coated with a varnish or a polymeric synthetic material A.
    In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the spray valve comprises a flexible element having a return characteristic and / or a valve head made of at least one synthetic material B, preferably an elastomeric synthetic material. . Here again, cosmetic products according to the invention are preferred, in which the valve comprises a flexible element having a return characteristic and / or a valve cone made up of at least one synthetic material B, the preferred synthetic materials B being elastomeric synthetic materials. Particularly preferred synthetic materials are chosen from Buna, in particular Buna N, Buna 421, Buna 1602 and Buna KA 6712, neoprene, butyl and chlorobutyl.
    In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the flexible member having a return characteristic may be designed as a coil spring or a helical compression spring. In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the flexible member of the valve having a return characteristic may be integrally formed with the valve cone and have flexible feet. This spring can be made of metal or plastic.
    In one embodiment of the invention, it is no longer preferable that the valve cone and the flexible element have a return characteristic. As such, the type of Ariane M valve, marketed by Seaquist Perfect, is particularly preferable: on it, the flexible element with return feature is designed in a form of four elastic legs in one piece with the valve cone.
    All spray valves used according to the invention preferably have a valve head with an internal paint, the paint and valve material to be compatible. If aluminum valves are used according to the invention, the inside of their heads may be covered with Micoflex paint, for example. If tinplate valves are used according to the invention, the inside of their heads can be covered with PET (polyethylene terephthalate) for example. The tanks used, which can be made of tinplate or aluminum, the aluminum tanks being preferable according to the invention, must also have a layer of internal paint or a layer protecting them from the corrosion caused by the emulsions. water-in-oil used. An epoxy-phenol paint, especially available under the designation Hoba 7407 P, is an internal protective paint> preferable according to the invention.
    With regard to the valve, it can not be more preferably a valve type ARM-4.00-1-0, 32-8, 70 Green - AR Housing - Valve-AHT-1.60-0, 00-PA-Natural. i
    As regards other preferred embodiments of the cosmetic product according to the invention, what has been exposed to the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis. By the addition of an inorganic buffer system (b) in the coloring agents, which contain at least one (a) direct dye and (c) water, it is possible to precisely define and reproducible the pH value of the agent. This has the consequence that the color shades, which are preserved by the application of the coloring agent to the hair, have improved reproducibility and optimization of the stability of the shades.
    A third object of the present invention is therefore a method for improving the stability of the dyes of the coloring agents, characterized in that a keratin fiber coloring agent which contains (a) at least one direct acting dye and (c) water, mixed with (b) an inorganic buffer system consisting of at least one inorganic acid (b1) and at least one inorganic salt thereof (b2), as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention. i
    Regarding other preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, what has been exposed on the agents according to the invention and on the cosmetic products according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
    Examples
    The following preliminary solutions (Pre-Sol) were produced. Subsequently, the pH value of the preliminary solutions was measured:
    1. Measurement of pH value changes
    Subsequently, each of the above mentioned preliminary solutions was mixed with the preparation containing a next dye (F)
    After obtaining the result of the mixture of (pre-soil) and (F), the pH value of each mixture was measured again. The smaller the difference in pH value between (Pre-Sol) and [(Pre-Sol) + (F)], the higher the Buffer Buffer Capacity (b1) + (b2) used.
    2. Measure of shelf life
    The following preparations were produced and stored in screw-top glasses for 3 months at room temperature. The glasses were visually inspected immediately after production and after 3 months.
    权利要求:
    Claims (16)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    claims
    1. Agent for coloring fibers containing keratin, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic vehicle (a) at least one direct dye and (b) an inorganic buffer system consisting of at least one inorganic acid (b1) and at least one inorganic salt of this acid (b2) and (c) water.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains (a) at least one direct acting anionic dye.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it contains (a) at least one direct acting anionic dye from the group consisting of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9 , Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49 , Violet Acid 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D & C Yellow 7, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Orange 4, D & C Green 5, D & C Orange 10, D & C Orange 11, D & C Red 21, D & C Red 27, D & C Red 33, D & C Violet 2 and D & C Brown 1.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains the inorganic acid (b1) and the salt (s) of the inorganic acid (b2) in a molar ratio (b1). ) / (b2) ranging from 1:15 to 15: 1, preferably from 1:10 to 10: 1, more preferably from 1: 5 to 5: 1 and most preferably from 1: 3 to 1: 1.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains - relative to the total weight of the product - (b1) one or more inorganic acid (s) in a total amount of 0 From 1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 1.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 1.2% by weight. % in weight.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains - relative to the total weight of the product - (b2) one or more inorganic acid (s) in a total amount of 0 1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5% by weight, and more preferably 1.0 to 3.2% by weight % in weight.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it (b) contains an inorganic buffer system consisting of (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) at least one phosphate salt from of the group consisting of potassium dihydrogen phosphate (KH2PO4), sodium dihydrogenphosphate (NaH2PO4), potassium hydrogen phosphate (K2HPO4), sodium hydrogen phosphate (Na2HPO4), potassium phosphate (K3PO4) and sodium phosphate. sodium (Na3PO4).
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that (b) contains an inorganic buffer system consisting of (b1) phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and (b2) at least one phosphate salt from of the group consisting of potassium dihydrogenphosphate (KH2PO4) and sodium dihydrogenphosphate (Na2HPO4), the product containing inorganic acid (b1) and the salt (s) of the inorganic acid (b2) in a molar ratio (b1) / (b2) ranging from 1: 5 to 5: 1, preferably from 1: 3 to 3: 1, most preferably from 1: 3 to 1: 1.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that (d) the total content of all organic carboxylic acids having 1 to 8 carbon atoms and their salts contained in the agent -repported to the total weight of the agent - is less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.05% by weight.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that (d) the total content of all organic acids contained in the agent, from the group consisting of citric acid, the lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, malonic acid, oxalic acid, mandelic acid and salts of these acids - based on the total weight of the agent - is less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight and can not be used. more preferably less than 0.05% by weight.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it has a pH value in a range from 1.0 to 5.5, preferably from 1.8 to 4.9, more preferably from 2.3 to 4.8 and most preferably from 2.5 to 3.4.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further contains (e) at least one solvent from the group consisting of propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethane- 1-ol and / or benzyl alcohol.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it (c) contains water whose degree of hardness (° dH) is at least 9.3, preferably from minus 9.3, more preferably at least 11.3 and most preferably at least 14.3, the degree of hardness of the water being calculated using the following formula (mg of calcium and magnesium per liter of water): ° dH = 0.14 x [calcium value in mg / l] + 0.23 x [magnesium value in mg / l] [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it further contains (f) one or more other propellants, selected from the group consisting of dimethyl ether, propane, propene , n-butane, n-butene, n-pentane, n-pentene, isopentane and isopentene.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Cosmetic product comprising a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 14, packaged in an aerosol pressure tank, the aerosol pressure tank having an aerosol dispensing device with a spray valve.
    [16" id="c-fr-0016]
    16. Process for increasing the stability of the shades of coloring agents, characterized in that a keratin fiber coloring agent, which comprises (a) at least one direct dye and (b) water, is mixed with (c) an inorganic buffer system consisting of at least one inorganic acid (b1) and at least one inorganic salt thereof (b2), (b1) and (b2) being as defined in the claims 1,4,5,6,7 and / or 8.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    US10045920B2|2018-08-14|
    US20170239152A1|2017-08-24|
    GB201702765D0|2017-04-05|
    GB2552862A|2018-02-14|
    GB2552862B|2019-05-29|
    FR3047896B1|2020-08-28|
    DE102016202649A1|2017-08-24|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    US5254333A|1990-07-10|1993-10-19|Kao Corporation|Hair treatment composition and hair dye composition|
    JPH0737370B2|1991-09-20|1995-04-26|花王株式会社|Hair dye composition|
    JP3394716B2|1998-10-12|2003-04-07|花王株式会社|Hair dye composition|DE102017206087A1|2017-04-10|2018-10-11|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Method and kit for dyeing hair with acid dyes|
    FR3075612B1|2017-12-22|2020-03-06|L'oreal|AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DIRECT DYE, A BUFFER SYSTEM, A HYDROTROPIC SOLVENT AND A LOWER ALCOHOL.|
    US10723847B2|2018-10-12|2020-07-28|ProAction Fluids LLC|Coating powdered polymer with a water-soluble dye as an indicator for polymer hydration state|
    US10646415B1|2018-10-31|2020-05-12|L'oreal|Hair-coloring compositions, aerosol products, and methods for coloring hair|
    TW202112346A|2019-08-14|2021-04-01|日商花王股份有限公司|Non-oxidative hair dye composition and method|
    法律状态:
    2018-02-23| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2019-02-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2019-11-22| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20191122 |
    2020-02-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2021-02-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2022-02-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    DE102016202649.6A|DE102016202649A1|2016-02-22|2016-02-22|Hair dyes containing substantive dyes and inorganic buffer systems|
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