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    • 专利摘要:
    The subject of the invention is a cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent consisting of galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa and crosslinked sulphated galactans of Kappaphycus alvarezii, with molar masses of between 1 and 150 kDa. The invention also relates to the uses of this agent in particular for its tensor and film-forming effect.
    公开号:FR3047173A1
    申请号:FR1650741
    申请日:2016-01-29
    公开日:2017-08-04
    发明作者:Jean Paufique
    申请人:Societe Industrielle Limousine dApplication Biologique SA SILAB；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    COSMETIC AGENT CONSISTING OF GALACTOMANNANES OBTAINED FROM CAESALPINIA SPINOSA AND SULFATE GALACTANES OBTAINED FROM KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII
    The present invention relates to a particular cosmetic agent consisting of galactomannans obtained from Caesalpina spinosa and crosslinked sulfated galactans obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii, having a tensor and / or film-forming effect and its use for cosmetic or dermocosmetic applications. Women are constantly seeking solutions to keep their skin young and healthy. They are looking for the product that can erase the signs of time and allow them to protect themselves from the harmful effects of an ever more aggressive environment. Indeed, due to the industrialization and growth of cities, individuals are regularly exposed to allergens, irritating molecules or fine particles. The latter in particular emitted by vehicles have devastating effects on health. Beyond their respiratory impact, they cause major damage to the skin by accelerating aging: appearance of wrinkles and age spots, loose skin, loss of elasticity and lack of radiance.
    Faced with this problem, the cosmetics market offers a wide range of anti-aging and protective treatments. There are products aimed at remodeling deep and long-term skin to restore its youth. In addition, a range of antioxidants, detoxifiers or stimulators of natural defenses is available to help the skin to protect itself.
    However, in addition to these "long-term" treatments, consumers also want immediate results. In the future, therefore, care integrates, and largely, lifting agents that can instantly improve the signs of aging. Since 2010, we have seen progress in skin care, a new category of assets: "second skin" assets. The latter with a short and long-term action are integrated for their striking action and protector against external aggression. The objective of the present invention is to provide a novel cosmetic agent with a noticeable tensing effect and a protective and lifting "second skin" film effect capable of boosting cutaneous youth. For this purpose, the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent, consisting of the association of specific biopolymers with molar masses of between 1 and 150 kDa. Galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa and crosslinked sulphated galactans obtained from Koppophycus alvarezii. The invention relates in particular to the combination of galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa with molar masses of between 1 and 150 kDa and of crosslinked sulphated galactans obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii of molar masses of between 7 and 40 kDa.
    Advantageously, the agent according to the invention has powerful biomechanical and film-forming properties which confer an effectiveness of second protective skin. Advantageously, they are made without the use of chemical agents and meet the requirements of green chemistry. With this particular combination of biopolymers, the skin is protected, it regains radiance and attractiveness. The visible signs of skin aging are instantly erased. The invention therefore also relates to the cosmetic use of this cosmetic agent. The invention also relates to the cosmetic compositions including the cosmetic agent according to the invention as well as a cosmetic skin treatment method using these compositions. Other features and advantages will emerge from the detailed description of the invention which follows with reference to the appended figures in which: FIG. 1 represents a chromatogram of an agent according to the invention; Figures 2A to 2E show the scale from "-" (Figure 2E) to "++++" (Figure 2A) for evaluating the shrink force of a polymer; FIG. 3 represents the AFM (Atomic Force Microscope) image of an agent according to the invention; FIGS. 4A to 4C represent the DSC (differential scanning calorimetry) curves for selected sulphated galactans according to the invention (FIG. 4A), for galactomannans selected according to the invention (FIG. 4B) and for an agent according to the invention (FIG. Figure 4C); FIGS. 5A to 5D show the DMA (Dynamic Mechanical Analysis) curves for selected galactomannans according to the invention (FIGS. 5A-5B) and for an agent according to the invention (FIGS. 5C-5D)
    DEFINITIONS
    For the purposes of the invention, the term "cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent" or "agent" means an ingredient, an active ingredient or an excipient suitable for use in a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition. The agent according to the invention consists of biopolymers, and may also be referred to herein as "biopolymer".
    For the purposes of the invention, the term "biopolymers" is intended to mean polymers derived from vegetable raw materials, as opposed to synthetic polymers, which are obtained by chemical synthesis.
    For the purposes of the invention, the term "film-forming agent" is intended to mean a biopolymer exhibiting a film-forming effect, that is to say a soluble biopolymer at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration at which it forms a medium of homogeneous appearance and producing once dried for 24 hours at 40 ° C, a film which requires a mass of at least 100 g to break it in the test described in the present application.
    For the purposes of the invention, the term "tensor" means a biopolymer having a tensor effect, that is to say any soluble biopolymer at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration at which it forms a medium of homogeneous appearance and producing at this concentration, a retraction noted at least "+++" in the test described in the present application.
    By "film-forming" effect is meant an effect that can create on the surface of the skin a film not visible to the naked eye, and thus protect the skin from external aggressions such as pollution and allergens.
    By "tensor effect" is meant a tension effect on the skin and by this tension effect, smooth the skin, reduce the pores of the skin and immediately reduce wrinkles and fine lines.
    By "average molar mass" of a mixture of molecules within the meaning of the invention is meant the average of the molar masses by weight of each molecule of the mixture.
    The term "medium of homogeneous appearance" means a medium that does not have aggregates visible to the naked eye.
    DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent consisting of: galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa, crosslinked sulphated galactans obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii of molar masses of between 1 and 150 kDa.
    It is therefore an agent consisting of selected biopolymers, selected with specific characteristics.
    The determination of the molar masses of these biopolymers of saccharide nature is preferably carried out by steric exclusion chromatography. This liquid chromatography method makes it possible to separate the macromolecules as a function of their hydrodynamic volume (size exclusion chromatography). The solutes are eluted in order of decreasing molar masses after passing through 3 columns of gel permeation mounted in series (columns PL aquagel-OH C60, C40 and C30). The compounds are detected by a refractive index detector. The molar masses of the carbohydrates are evaluated by comparing the retention times of the peaks detected in the samples of the agents according to the invention with the retention times of previously injected standards. The average molar mass of a mixture of molecules corresponds to the average of the molar masses weighted by the intensity of each. For example, the combination of biopolymers whose chromatogram is shown in FIG. 1 contains polysaccharides with molar masses of between 1.2 and 150 kDa and an average molar mass of 16 kDa. From a physical point of view, the agent of the invention has a low viscosity. The viscosity is measured at room temperature using a Brookfield Model DV-I + viscometer. The Brookfield viscometer determines the viscosity of a fluid from the deformation exerted on a spring created by the rotation of a disk in this fluid. A product is considered viscous if its viscosity exceeds 1000 centipoise.
    Moreover, this agent has a tensor effect. This tensor effect can be defined by the characterization of the retraction force on the synthetic skin model or by a sensory study on a panel of experts.
    The shrinkage force of the polymer can be characterized by an in vitro test. This model is known to those skilled in the art and has been described in the patent application EP1944065. The test is carried out on a homogeneous solution of biopolymers diluted in water at a concentration of 7% by weight. The homogeneous mixture is deposited on a synthetic skin film having a thickness of about 100 μm and an initial width of 10 mm. After drying at 22 ± 3 ° C. and 40 ± 10% relative humidity, the synthetic skin has a retracted width due to the tension exerted by the deposited polymer.
    This retraction is evaluated visually and quantified on a scale of "-" to "++++", (-: no tensor effect, ++++: maximum tensor effect) shown in Figures 2A to 2E.
    A product is considered as a tensor with this test, if the retraction is noted at least "+++". The tensor effect can be evaluated also by a sensory study on a panel of experts. The study can be carried out by formulating the gel test agents.
    The perception of these effects is appreciated by sensory experts through an evaluation on a score scale ranging from 1 to 10.
    Each expert notes on a scale ranging from 0 to 10 (0: no perceived tensor effect, 10: significant tensor effect) the intensity of the sensation perceived after the application of a product (agent according to the invention or placebo ) at the crow's feet. The notation is carried out 3 minutes, 5 minutes and 10 minutes after the application of the product.
    The average score obtained at each time is calculated for each expert.
    A product is considered as a tensor, if the average of the scores obtained is greater than 3.
    Finally, the agent according to the invention has a film-forming effect. This film-forming effect can be characterized by means of a texturometer. The principle is to quantify the weight to apply to break the film of the samples to be tested.
    Samples are prepared as follows:
    - Drying solutions containing biopolymers at 7% (w / w) for 24 hours at 40 ° C - Obtaining films with a thickness between 30 and 40 μm. The sample to be tested is deposited on the surface of a flexible and deformable foam, which makes it possible to impose a significant deformation of the biopolymer film. The substrate consists of an elastomer urethane foam 5 mm thick, it mimics the surface and elasticity of the skin. The study can be performed with a TA-XTplus Texturometer from Stable Micro System.
    A cylindrical punch exerts a mechanical stress on the sample at a constant speed of movement.
    A curve of the weight exerted (g) as a function of time (sec) is obtained, from which it is possible to determine the mass necessary to obtain the rupture.
    The mass required to break the samples depends on the viscoelastic properties of each sample. A product is considered to be film-forming if the mass exerted to break the film is greater than 100 g. The cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to the invention contains the combination of selected galactomannans of Caesalpinia spinosa and selected crosslinked sulphated galactans of Koppophycus olvorezii.
    Galactomannans are known as emulsifiers, thickeners widely used in cosmetics and food. These are polysaccharides of a very high size (about 3000kDa).
    The viscosity of these polysaccharides is proportional to the size of the polysaccharides, and it provides the thickening effect.
    The galactomannans of the agent according to the invention are now described. The agent of the invention is composed of galactomannans selected by their molar masses of between 1 and 150 kDa, that is to say that they are obtained preferentially by transformation of native galactomannans of Caesalpinia spinosa, in particular by hydrolysis.
    These selected galactomannans preferably have an average molar mass of between 8 and 25 kDa.
    The particular galactomannans selected according to the invention are produced as follows: Solubilization of native galactomannan powder of Caesalpinia spinosa in water at a rate of at least 20 g / l,
    Hydrolysis chemically or enzymatically treated; the size of the biopolymers is inversely proportional to the duration of the hydrolysis or the concentration of enzymes or chemical agent used. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, in order to eliminate the insoluble phase, Selection by membrane filtration (s) of galactomannans with molar masses of between 1 kDa and 150 kDa.
    A low viscosity liquid product A containing selected galactomannans having molar masses of between 1 kDa and 150 kDa is obtained, and preferably an average molar mass of between 8 kDa and 25 kDa.
    The size of the galactomannans selected is determined by steric exclusion chromatography. The tensor effect is evaluated on a model of retraction on synthetic skin or by the panel of sensory experts.
    The viscosity is determined by a viscometer.
    The mass causing the rupture of the film made with the agent is evaluated by a texturometer.
    The characteristic results of several examples of galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa, with an average molar mass of between 8 and 25 kDa on the one hand and galactomannans of average molar mass outside that of the subject of the invention on the other hand, are presented in Table 1 below:
    NM *: not measured; NT **: not tested Table 1
    These results show that the native galactomannans of high average molar mass (> 25kDa) and galactomannans of low average molecular weight (<8kDa) do not have the desired tensor effect on the shrinkage model.
    The tightening effect visualized on the model of retraction on synthetic skin is correlated by the evaluation of the tensor effect perceived by a panel of sensory experts. This confirms that the galactomannans selected according to the invention can be detected as a tensor on the shrinkage model, or by a panel of sensory experts.
    Finally, the galactomannans of selected molar mass do indeed exhibit the desired filmogenic effect measured with the texturometer.
    In addition to these galactomannans, the cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to the invention contains crosslinked sulphated galactans selected by their molar masses of between 7 and 40 kDa.
    Sulphated galactans are known as emulsifiers, thickeners widely used in cosmetics and food. These are polysaccharides of a very high size (up to 20,000kDa).
    The viscosity of these polysaccharides is proportional to the size of the polysaccharides, and it provides the thickening effect.
    The sulphated galactans according to the invention are selected by their molar masses of between 7 and 40 kDa, that is to say that they are obtained preferentially by transformation of native sulphated galactans of Kappaphycus alvarezii, in particular by hydrolysis. These selected sulphated galactans preferably have an average molar mass of between 8 and 20 kDa.
    In the invention, the particular, selected sulfated galactans are made as follows:
    Solubilization of native sulphated galactan powder of Kappaphycus alvarezii in water at a rate of at least 20 g / l,
    Enzymatic or chemical controlled hydrolysis; the size of the biopolymers is inversely proportional to the duration of the hydrolysis or the concentration of enzyme or chemical agent used. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, in order to eliminate the insoluble phase, Selection of sulphated galactans with molar masses of between 7 kDa and 40 kDa, by membrane filtration (s),
    A low viscosity liquid product B1 containing selected sulphated galactans having an average molar mass of between 8 kDa and 20 kDa is obtained.
    These sulphated galactans selected by their molar mass are crosslinked by a crosslinking agent, preferably a crosslinking agent of ionic nature. The ionic crosslinking agent is chosen from mono or multivalent cations. Other ionic crosslinking agents known to those skilled in the art can be envisaged.
    A low viscosity liquid product B2 containing selected crosslinked sulphated galactans having an average molar mass of between 8 kDa and 20 kDa is then obtained. Characterization of the size of the sulphated galactans is carried out by steric exclusion chromatography. The tensor effect is evaluated on the model of retraction on synthetic skin or by the panel of sensory experts.
    The viscosity is determined by a viscometer.
    The characteristic results of several examples of crosslinked sulphated galactans obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii of average molar mass between 8 and 20 kDa on the one hand and sulphated Kappaphycus alvarezii galactans crosslinked or not of average molar mass apart from that object of The invention is shown in Table 2 below:
    NM *: not measured, NT **: not tested
    Agent 1 and 2 are ionic crosslinking agents of the bivalent cation type Agent 3 is an ionic crosslinking agent such as a monovalent cation Table 2
    These results show that sulphated galactans of high average molar mass (> 20kDa) and sulphated galactans of low average molar mass (<8kDa) do not exhibit the desired tensor effect.
    Sulphated or non-crosslinked sulphated galactans with an average molar mass of between 8 and 20 kDa do indeed exhibit a tightening effect visualized by a retracting force and validated by the sensory experts.
    The ionic crosslinking of the sulphate functional groups potentiates the tensor effect of the selected sulphated galactans, but does not give a tensor effect to sulphated galactans having no tensor effect before crosslinking. The cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to the invention is constituted both by particular galactomannans and particular crosslinked sulphated galactans, as described above.
    The process for producing the agent according to the invention comprises the following steps: obtaining galactomannans with molar masses of between 1 and 150 kDa, referred to as product A according to the protocol described above, obtaining crosslinked sulphated galactans with molar masses between 7 and 40kDa, denoted product B2 according to the protocol described previously, mixing product A and product B2,
    A filtration step may be added after mixing.
    According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to the invention consists of: between 60 and 90% by galactomannans, and between 10 and 40% by crosslinked sulphated galactans.
    Even more preferentially, the cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to the invention consists of: - between 70 and 90% by galactomannans, and between 10 and 30% by crosslinked sulphated galactans.
    Preferentially, the galactomannans and sulphated galactans together form an interpenetrating network.
    Several agents, in the form of solutions, were tested at 7% on the synthetic skin model and at 0.5% in the sensory tensor study.
    The results are shown in Table 3 below:
    NT **: not tested Table 3
    It is found that the combination of selected crosslinked sulphated galactans and galactomannans selected according to the invention makes it possible not only to retain the shrinkage tensor effect of the selected sulphated galactans alone or of the selected galactomannans alone, but above all to enhance the tensor efficiency perceived by the panel of sensory experts.
    This combination also makes it possible to increase the resistance of the film with respect to the resistance of the films of the galactomannans selected according to the invention or sulphated galactans selected according to the invention alone. The combination of crosslinked selected sulphated galactans and selected galactomannans forms an interpenetrating network.
    The presence of this network is demonstrated by the demonstration of the presence of a homogeneous mixture by measurement on AFM (Atomic Force Microscope) and the modification of the mobility of the polymer chains constituting the network by DSC studies (Calorimetry Differential scanning) and DMA (Dynamic Mechanical Analysis).
    The operating principle of the AFM is to probe the surface of a sample by successive scanning of a very fine probe located in the immediate vicinity of this surface. The AFM probe consists of a flexible lever at the end of which is fixed a tip. The sample is fixed on a piezoelectric ceramic. This ceramic allows movement in the three directions of space.
    The atomic force microscope can visualize complex biological structures as well as unique molecules in their functional state. Lateral and vertical resolutions can reach a few angstroms. Depending on the measurement mode (contact, tapping, no contact) and the functionalisation of the probe, the atomic force microscope can measure intra- and intermolecular forces, affinities between molecules, perform microrheology or even evaluate the topology of a surface.
    Samples analyzed by AFM were previously prepared by spin coating.
    The topology obtained by AFM of the film of the agent according to the invention (crosslinked sulphated galactans and galactomannans - ex2) is visualized at a scale of 50 μm (FIG. 3). The AFM image of the combination of crosslinked sulfated galactans and galactomannans according to the invention shows that the mixture is homogeneous, there are no micro-domains of each polymer. The surface roughness of the agent according to the invention is 7 nm.
    Polymer state changes are endothermic (e.g., fusion) or exothermic processes (e.g., crystallization). These heat exchanges can be measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). If the degree of interpenetration of two polymers is not important, the two networks will be divided into two phases and in this case, two glass transition temperatures corresponding to each of the networks taken individually will be detected. If we are dealing with an interpenetrating network, a single glass transition temperature will be detected at a temperature intermediate between those of the two combined networks.
    The samples tested are the selected crosslinked sulphated galactans with a molar mass of 10.8 kDa (FIG. 4A), the selected galactomannans with an average molar mass of 10 kDa (FIG. 4B) and the combination of these selected crosslinked sulphated galactans with these selected galactomannans (FIG. 4C). .
    Comparison of the spectra of the single biopolymers and the combination (Example 2) shows a change in the thermal behavior of the combination compared to simple biopolymers. In fact, despite the distribution of sulfated / galactomannan galactans, it is possible to observe the absence of the exothermic peak for the combination but present in the sample of crosslinked sulphated galactans. Moreover, the characteristic endotherm of a melting of the crystalline zones of the crosslinked sulfated galactans is absent in the association suggesting a homogeneous distribution of the two crosslinked and galactomannan sulfated galactan networks, limiting the establishment of crystalline zone attributable to the crosslinked sulfated galactans. Dynamic thermomechanical analysis (DMA) is commonly used to demonstrate the presence of different phases in polymer blends. When a mixture is perfectly homogeneous, a single mechanical relaxation located between the mechanical relaxation temperatures of the two constituent polymers of the mixture is detected.
    Mechanical relaxation is evaluated by means of a parameter called the tan delta. If the interactions are sufficiently large in the mixture of two polymers, an additional tan delta peak can be observed.
    On the DMA curve selected galactomannans (-70 to 300 ° C, Figure 5A and magnification -50 to 150 ° C, Figure 5B) the presence of a tan delta peak at 90 ° C.
    The DMA curve of the agent according to the invention associating the galactomannans and the crosslinked sulphated galactans (-70 to 300 ° C., FIG. 5C and magnification -50 to 150 ° C., FIG. 5D) has a very broadened profile towards 40 and 100 ° C demonstrating a longer mechanical relaxation temperature range than those of galactomannans alone.
    This change in the Tan delta can take place only because the two networks do not show a phase separation and they are sufficiently close to each other. This extension of the Tan delta is not accompanied by the presence of two distinct peaks, it suggests the presence of two networks interacting with each other.
    The changes in the relaxation temperatures (DMA) and the glass transition (DSC) of the agent according to the invention demonstrate a homogeneous distribution of the two biopolymer networks. They also suggest the establishment of interaction between these two biopolymers relating to an interpenetrating network of biopolymers. The cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to the invention can therefore be used for its various properties. In particular, the invention relates to its use as a cosmetic or dermocosmetic tensor and / or film-forming agent.
    It can thus be used in particular as an agent: to improve the radiance of the skin and / or smooth the skin, and / or to improve the barrier effect of the skin, and / or for a protective cosmetic effect of the skin, and / or for a skin-protecting cosmetic or dermocosmetic effect against the penetration of toxic, polluting, allergenic or irritating molecules.
    Because of these different efficiencies, the invention also aims its use to combat the unsightly manifestations of aging skin. The cosmetic and / or dermocosmetic agent according to the invention is preferably used in a composition, this composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium. These are compositions in different galenic forms, adapted for topical administration to human skin.
    These compositions may especially be in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (Water / Oil / Water or Oil / Water / Oil) which may be optionally microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or in the form of solutions, suspensions, hydrodispersions, aqueous gels or powders. They can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a cream, a lotion, a milk, a serum, an ointment, a gel, a paste or a foam, or in solid form.
    It may be compositions comprising at least 0.05% of an agent according to the invention, preferably between 0.1 and 3%.
    These compositions comprise, in addition to the active agent, a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not cause unacceptable sensations of discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.
    The compositions according to the invention may contain as adjuvant at least one compound chosen from: oils, which may be chosen in particular from silicone oils, linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile; waxes, such as ozokerite, polyethylene wax, beeswax or carnauba wax, silicone elastomers, surfactants, preferably emulsifiers, whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic or amphoteric, co-surfactants, such as linear fatty alcohols, thickeners and / or gelling agents, humectants, such as polyols such as glycerine, organic filters, inorganic filters, dyes, preservatives, fillers, pigments, minerals, tensors, sequestering agents, perfumes, and their mixtures, without this list being limiting.
    Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by the Personal Care Product Council).
    Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or non-active, and their amount, so that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.
    These compositions are in particular intended to be used for the effects provided by the cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to the invention. The invention also specifically targets a cosmetic skin care method for improving the condition of the skin, in particular for improving the radiance of the skin and / or combating the unsightly manifestations of aging of the skin. Preferably, the method consists in applying at least once a day to the skin of the face a composition comprising at least 0.05% by weight of dry matter of the cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to the invention.
    In order to illustrate the invention, examples and test results are presented following.
    EXAMPLES
    EXAMPLE 1 Mixture of galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa and of crosslinked sulphated galactans obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii An example of agent according to the invention is an agent consisting exclusively of galactomannans of average molar mass 18kDa, obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa and crosslinked sulphated galactans of average molar mass 18kDa, obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii.
    This agent can be obtained by the implementation of a process comprising the following steps: Preparation of the product A: Solubilization of native galactomannan powder of Caesalpinia spinosa in water at 20 g / l, enzymatic hydrolysis during 1 hour decantation to separate the soluble and insoluble phases and to eliminate the insoluble phase,
    The product A obtained is characterized by an average molar mass of 18 kDa. Preparation of the product B: Solubilization of native sulphated galactan powder of Kappaphycus alvarezii in water at 20 g / l, acid hydrolysis controlled for 2 h, Filtration in order to separate the soluble and insoluble phases, and eliminate the insoluble phase,
    The product B obtained is characterized by an average molar mass of 18 kDa. Mixture of 70% of product A and 30% of product B. - Addition of KCl, the crosslinking agent,
    Membrane filtration and selection of polysaccharides with an average molar mass of 18 kDa. The agent obtained is characterized by an average molar mass of 18 kDa.
    EXAMPLE 2 Mixture of galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa and of crosslinked sulphated galactans obtained from kappaphycus alvarezi An example of an agent according to the invention is an agent consisting exclusively of galactomannans of average molar mass 10 kDa, obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa and sulfated galactans of average molar mass 10.8kDa, obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii.
    This agent can be obtained by implementing a method comprising the following steps:
    Preparation of the product A: o Solubilization of native galactomannan powder of Caesalpinia spinosa in water at 20 g / l, o Acid hydrolysis for 2 hours, o Decantation to separate the soluble and insoluble phases, and eliminate the insoluble phase, o Filtration membrane to select polysaccharides of average molar mass of 10 kDa.
    The product A obtained is characterized by an average molar mass of 10 kDa. - Preparation of the product B: o Solubilization of native sulphated galactan powder of kappaphycus alvarezii in water at 20g / l, o Acid hydrolysis for 3h, o Filtration to separate the soluble and insoluble phases, and remove the insoluble phase, o Addition of CaCl 2, the crosslinking agent, o Membrane filtration and selection of polysaccharides of average molar mass of 10.8 kDa,
    The product B obtained is characterized by an average molar mass of 10.8 kDa. Mixture of 80% of product A and 20% of product B. The agent obtained is characterized by an average molar mass of 10 kDa.
    Example 3 Emulsion Composition The emulsion was produced using the following formula:
    EXAMPLE 4 Gel-Emulsified Composition The gel-emulsified was produced using the following formula:
    Example 5 Gel Composition
    The gel was made using the following formula:
    Example 6 Serum Composition
    The serum was made using the following formula:
    Example 7 Composition of the Foundation Type
    The foundation was made using the following formula:
    EXAMPLE 8 Cream Mask Composition The cream mask was made using the following formula:
    The formula of daily care was as follows:
    Example 9: Tissue mask composition The solution for soaking the fabric mask is as follows:
    The formula of daily care was as follows:
    TESTS-DEMONSTRATION OF THE EFFICIENCY OF THE AGENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION The performances of the agent according to the invention were evaluated according to 4 axes:
    It has a protective film effect, a lifting film effect, a noticeable film effect and a second skin booster beauty effect. 1) Protective film effect: The agent according to the invention has a dense mesh which gives it protective effects on the skin. This film effect forms on the surface of the epidermis a molecular barrier capable of protecting external aggression (chemical or mechanical) while maintaining the water exchange of the skin.
    Ex vivo or in vivo studies have established that the agent according to the invention reduces the penetration of pollutants including PM10-type fine particles and carbon particles. It has similar effects on the penetration of allergens and irritants. All of these effects are rapid since the shield effect is observable from 15 minutes and up to 24 hours after application.
    In addition, the biopolymer of the invention protects the barrier function of the skin subjected to mechanical aggression. An in vivo test shows that twice-daily application of an agent according to the invention for 21 days allows the reduction of water insensitive losses (PIE) induced by mechanical stress (= strippings).
    A complementary analysis also made it possible to demonstrate the non-occlusive action of the agent according to the invention: in the absence of aggression, it does not modify the insensitive losses in water of the skin. a) Effect of the agent according to the invention on the penetration of pollutants
    Fine particles emitted during episodes of pollution cause skin damage and cause the appearance of wrinkles or pigment spots. The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo the protective effect of an agent according to the invention with respect to the adhesion of fine particles of air pollution with a diameter of ΙΟμιτι on the skin.
    This study was performed on 10 healthy volunteers at the inner side of the forearms. Fine particles were quantified on photographs. The agent of Example 2 in aqueous solution at different concentrations (0.10%, 0.25%, 0.50% and 1.00%) is applied to the surface of the skin over 2 cm 2. After 20 minutes, the skin areas are photographed, and a suspension of fine particles is applied. After 50 minutes, new photographs of the zones are made before and after a standardized rinsing.
    The amount of particles adhering to the skin surface is proportional to the color of the area. The clearer a zone is, the less the particles have adhered.
    The results are shown in Table 4.
    Table 4
    Under the conditions of this study, by forming a protective film effect on the surface of the skin, the cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to the invention at 1% reduces the adhesion of fine particles to the skin by 47%. b) Effect of the agent according to the invention on the penetration of irritants The objective of this study was to demonstrate that the agent according to the invention prevents the penetration of a skin irritant. The protective effect is evaluated for the agent of Example 2 formulated at 0.50% gel-emulsified (Example 4) in the context of a "stinging test".
    This test makes it possible to determine the ability of panelists to perceive and evaluate the sensations generated by the application of a lactic acid solution at the level of the wings
    of the nose. Indeed, the application of this irritating solution causes the appearance of uncomfortable sensations such as tingling, burning, itching. The study was conducted on 12 healthy volunteers. The effect of tested emulsified gels on cutaneous reactivity after application of a lactic acid solution was evaluated on a 4-point numerical scale before and after application.
    Under the conditions of this study, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.50% significantly reduces by 22% the uncomfortable sensations caused by the application of an irritating agent. This effect was perceived by 58% of the volunteers.
    By forming a protective film effect, the agent according to the invention preserves sensitive skin vis-à-vis irritants. c) Effect of the agent according to the invention on the penetration of allergens The objective of this study was to evaluate the ability of the agent according to the invention to prevent transcutaneous penetration of an allergen by forming a film protective on the surface of the skin. The study was performed on skin explants using Frantz scattering cells in static operation. The barrier effect of the agent according to the invention was evaluated by quantifying the capacity of an allergen (amyl cinnamaldehyde) formulated at 0.2% in an emulsion (example 3), to cross the cutaneous barrier ex vivo in the presence or absence of of the agent according to the invention (Example 2). The level of amyl cinnamaldehyde is quantified by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry.
    The percentage of allergen present in the skin is calculated using the following formula:
    With: QM T24 amount of allergen in the formula recovered at the surface of the skin at t = 24 hours. QM ini quantity of allergen in the formula deposited on the surface of the skin.
    The amounts of allergen present in the skin after 24 hours are given in Table 5.
    Table 5
    Under the conditions of the study, by forming a protective film on the surface of the skin, the agent according to the invention at 1.00% reduces the transcutaneous penetration of amyl cinnamaldehyde by 62%. d) Effect of the agent according to the invention on the cutaneous barrier The objective of the study was to evaluate, in vivo, the capacity of the agent according to the invention (example 2) formulated at 0.50 % gel-emulsified (Example 4), to preserve the barrier function subjected to mechanical aggression (5 strippings).
    This study was conducted on 11 healthy volunteers. Insensitive water losses were measured using the Tewameter®TM300 (Courage and Khazaka).
    The results are shown in Table 6.
    Table 6
    Under the conditions of this study, in comparison with the placebo, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.50% significantly limits by 14% insensible water losses generated by mechanical aggression.
    By forming a protective film effect, the agent according to the invention makes it possible to reinforce the cutaneous barrier with respect to mechanical aggression. 2) Lifting film effect:
    Numerous analyzes have been conducted in vivo demonstrating the plurifunctionality of the agent according to the invention. It appears as a powerful lifting agent capable of: - smoothing the skin at two areas of the body (forearm and belly);
    - improve the biomechanical properties of the skin; - reduce wrinkles in the crow's feet and around the lips.
    These studies have measured the influence of various parameters: the dose of the agent, the duration of treatment and the impact of the formulation. Efficacy was quantified instrumentalally or evaluated by the volunteers themselves.
    Thus, it has been shown that in the short term the agent according to the invention has a strong and dose-dependent tensor effect. This visible effect of 30 minutes remains significant after two hours. It allows the smoothing of the skin in the forearm and belly and also the immediate reduction of wrinkles in the crow's feet or around the lips. In the long term: the agent according to the invention demonstrates its anti-wrinkle efficacy since it allows after 7 days of treatment to visibly fill the wrinkles of the contour of the lips. The smoothing effect on the stomach is maintained for up to 14 days.
    Thus, the agent according to the invention has lifting properties. It allows an improvement of the cutaneous microrelief at different areas of the body and the exfoliation of facial wrinkles. It can therefore be integrated into lifting and anti-aging treatments. a) Smoothing effect of the agent according to the invention on the cutaneous microrelief The smoothing effect of the agent according to the invention on the cutaneous microrelief is evaluated on two zones: the forearms and the belly. The objective of the first study was to evaluate, in vivo, against placebo the smoothing effect at the forearm of the agent according to the invention (Example 2), formulated at different doses (0.05 %, 0.10%, 0.25% and 0.50%) in a gel-emulsified (Example 4), 30 minutes and 2 hours after an isolated application. The objective of the second study was to evaluate, in vivo, against placebo the smoothing effect of the agent according to the invention (Example 2), formulated at 0.10% gel-emulsified (Example 4) at room temperature. belly level after 1 hour and 14 days of twice-daily application. The smoothing effect was measured by fringe projection (Eotech system) after fingerprinting. The characteristic parameters of the roughness of the microrelief of the skin (Sa and Sq) are evaluated.
    The results are shown in Tables 7 and 8.
    Table 7
    Table 8
    Under the conditions of these studies, the agent according to the invention has a significant tensor effect on the microrelief of the forearms, from 30 minutes at a dose of 0.10% and is maximum at 0.50%. This effect is prolonged two hours after application.
    After only 1 hour of application, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.10% tends to smooth the cutaneous microrelief on the belly by reducing the 3D roughness parameters. After 14 days of twice-daily applications, the agent according to the invention smooths the microrelief by significantly decreasing: the Sa parameter of 9.0% and the Sq parameter of 9.8%. This effect was observed in 89% and 83% of the volunteers who tested it, respectively. The agent according to the invention thus has a smoothing effect on the cutaneous microrelief, this effect is dependent dose. b) Effect of the agent according to the invention on wrinkles The objective of this study was to evaluate, in vivo, against placebo the anti-wrinkle effect of the agent according to the invention (Example 2) formulated in three types of cosmetic formulas: gel emulsified (Example 4) at different doses (0.10% and 0.50%), 30 minutes and 2 hours after a single application at the crow's feet; serum (Example 6) at 1.00%, 30 minutes after single application at the crow's feet;
    - in mask-cream (example 8) at 0.5%, 30 minutes after a single application on the wrinkles of the face and after completion of 2 masks-creams during a period of 7 days.
    In the case of gel-emulsion, the anti-wrinkle effect was measured using a fringe projection analysis (Eotech system) at the crow's feet and clinically evaluated on blind photographs by experts on a scale. from 1 to 6 and based on the evaluation of the depth of the deepest ride.
    In the case of serum, the anti-wrinkle effect has been evaluated clinically by experts on photographs and scored by the volunteers themselves.
    In the case of the mask-cream, the anti-wrinkle effect was measured thanks to a projection analysis of fringes at the level of the wrinkles of the top of the lips.
    Immediate anti-wrinkle effect of the agent according to the invention formulated in gel-emulsified by projection of fringes:
    The results corresponding to the anti-wrinkle effect of the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.10% and 0.50% gel-emulsified (Example 4), 30 minutes and 2 hours after a single application, are presented. in Table 9.
    Table 9
    Under the conditions of this study, the agent according to the invention formulated in gel-emulsified, has an immediate anti-wrinkle effect at the level of the bridle significant from 30 minutes. This effect is prolonged two hours after application and is dose-dependent. It significantly decreases the characteristic parameters of the skin surface of the crow's feet. This effect was observed for the dose: - 0.10%: in 68% of the volunteers 30 minutes after application, in 67% of the volunteers 2 hours after application;
    - 0.50%: in 70% of volunteers 30 minutes after application and in 74% of volunteers 2 hours after application.
    Immediate anti-wrinkle effect of the agent according to the invention formulated in gel-emulsified on photographs:
    The results corresponding to the effect of the agent according to the invention, formulated in gel-emulsified (Example 4) at different doses, on the stage of crow's feet wrinkles, 30 minutes and 2 hours after a single application are presented in Table 10.
    Table 10
    Under the conditions of this study, the agent according to the invention formulated in gel-emulsified, can significantly reduce the stage of crow's feet wrinkles from 30 minutes. This effect is prolonged two hours after application and is dose dependent.
    Two hours after application of the agent according to the invention to 0.10%, the expert panel noted an improvement in the stage of crow's feet wrinkles in 55% of cases. This percentage reaches 63% when the agent is used at 0.50%.
    Immediate anti-wrinkle effect evaluated on photographs of the agent according to the invention formulated in serum:
    The results corresponding to the effect of the agent according to the invention (example 2), formulated in serum (example 6) at 1%, on the stage of crow's feet wrinkles, 30 minutes after a single application are presented. in Table 11.
    Table 11
    Under the conditions of this study, 30 minutes after a single application, the agent according to the invention formulated at 1.00% in a serum, significantly reduces by 10.7% the average stage of wrinkles at the level of the legs of the patient. 60% of volunteers.
    By its rapid action, it allows to bring to the skin an express lifting effect.
    Under the conditions of this study and only 30 minutes after a single application on the entire face, the agent according to the invention formulated at 1.00% in a serum makes it possible to reduce the average level of wrinkles of the volunteers.
    This effect is perceived by the volunteers themselves who are more numerous in the group having tested the agent according to the invention to find that the agent provides an immediate tightening effect, makes the skin firmer and brighter.
    Fringing anti-wrinkle effect of the agent according to the invention formulated as a cream mask:
    The results corresponding to the effect of the agent according to the invention (Example 2), formulated at 0.50% cream mask (Example 8), on the wrinkles of the top of the lips are shown in Table 12.
    Table 12
    Under the conditions of this study, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.50% in cream-mask reduces the characteristic parameters of the wrinkles of the top of the lips. This effect is visible from the first application in 80% of volunteers (-10.7%). After three applications, the efficacy of the agent increases (-11.9%) and is observed in 65% of volunteers.
    The formula containing the agent is perceived overall to be more effective than the placebo formula by the volunteers who tested it. From the first application, more than 90% of the subjects feel an immediate tightening effect, find their skin smoother and more luminous.
    After 3 applications, all subjects find their skin more hydrated. They observe a skin that is smoother and softer, and less visible lines and wrinkles. c) Effect of the aeent according to the invention on the surface properties of the skin The objective of this study was to evaluate, in vivo, against placebo the tensor effect of the agent according to the invention, formulated at different doses (0.05%, 0.10%, 0.25% and 0.50%) in a gel-emulsified (Example 4), 30 minutes and 2 hours after an isolated application. The tensor effect was measured with the Dual MPA 580 cutter (Courage & Khazaka).
    The results corresponding to this tensor effect are shown in Table 13.
    Table 13
    Under the conditions of this study and in comparison with placebo, the agent according to the invention has a significant tensor effect from 30 minutes at the 0.05% dose and is dose-dependent. This effect is prolonged two hours after application. 3) Noticeable film effect
    The sensations perceived by the users during the application of the agent according to the invention were analyzed.
    Sensory experts have found a significant and dose-dependent tensor effect of the product. This effect is noticeable in different formulas (gel or foundation). At the same time, non-expert volunteers also perceived the immediate tensor effects and 30 minutes after applying the agent to the face.
    The visual effects of the agent according to the invention were also measured. It has thus been shown that its application allows an improvement of the overall appearance of the face which results in a reduction of the pore surface and an increase in the brightness of the skin.
    complexion. Mirror self-assessments have shown that volunteers judge their skin smoother, brighter, tense and hydrated. Finally, incorporated in a foundation formula, the agent increases the makeup hold. The lifting effect is perceived by sensory experts and non-experts. The invention provides an overall improvement in the appearance of the face of volunteers by reducing the size of the pores and giving the skin a boost. a) Sensory tensor effect of the agent according to the invention The objective of this study was to quantify, in vivo, against placebo: - on a panel of sensory experts, the tensor and smoothing effects perceived after application of the agent according to the invention (Example 2) formulated at 0.50% in a foundation (Example 7); on a panel of sensory experts, the tensor effect perceived after application of the agent according to the invention (Example 2) formulated at different gel doses (Example 5); on a non-expert panel, the tensor and smoothing effects perceived after application of the agent according to the invention (Example 2) formulated at 0.10% or 0.50% gel-emulsified (Example 4).
    The perception of these effects was assessed on a score scale ranging from 1 to 10 (1: no sensation, 10: maximum tensing sensation).
    The foundation is applied by light massage on the entire face. The notation is carried out immediately, 5mn and 15mn after application, based on sensations felt and self-observations made in a mirror under controlled light.
    The gel is applied by light massage at the crow's feet. The notation is carried out 3mn, 5mn and 10mn after application of the product.
    The gel-emulsified is applied by light massage on the whole face. The tensor and smoothing effects were measured immediately, 5, 15 and 30 minutes after application of the product.
    The results obtained are shown in Tables 14 to 16.
    Table 14
    Under the conditions of this study, after a single application, the agent at 0.5% in a foundation has significant tensor and smoothing effects greater than that of the placebo.
    Table 15
    After application of the agent according to the invention formulated in gel at different doses on the area of the crow's feet: - as of the 0.10% dose, 83% of sensory experts trained to perceive and quantify the sensation of tensor effect felt a tensor effect higher than the average effect felt with the placebo formula, - at the dose of 0.50%, this figure reaches 98%.
    Table 16
    Under the conditions of this study, after a single application, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.10% or 0.50% gel-emulsified, is significantly better perceived than the
    placebo formula by non-expert sensory volunteers. Indeed, it is felt as tensor and smoothing by these volunteers and this effect is dose-dependent. b) Effect of the agent according to the invention on the overall appearance of the face The objective of this study was to evaluate, in vivo, against placebo the effect of the agent according to the invention formulated at 0, 50% in mask-cream (example 8), on the overall improvement of the face, 30 minutes after 1 application or after a course of 3 masks performed over 7 days. The overall improvement of the face was evaluated thanks to: - a study of the surface of the pores at the level of the cheek by projection of fringes (Eotech system); - a visual assessment of the complexion's radiance by experts; - a self-evaluation of the performance perceived by the volunteer via a questionnaire completed after observation in front of a mirror.
    The cream-masks (placebo or agent according to the invention) were applied in a thick layer over the entire face7. The volunteers had to let him act for 20 minutes before penetrating the excess by massaging with the fingertips.
    The pore surface results corresponding to the effect of the agent, formulated at 0.50% mask-cream, compared to a placebo group are shown in Table 17.
    Table 17
    Under the conditions of this study, from the first use, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.50% in a mask-cream significantly improves the skin texture by reducing the pore surface area by 9.2% (observed effect in 65% of subjects).
    This decrease reached 10.4% after 3 applications of mask-cream. This effect was observed in 70% of the volunteers who tested the formula containing the agent, against only 38% for those who tested the placebo.
    Thus, the agent according to the invention contributes to the overall improvement of the face by refining the skin texture.
    The results on the brightness of the complexion evaluated by experts, corresponding to the effect of the agent according to the invention, formulated at 0.50% mask-cream, compared to a placebo group are presented in Table 18 .
    Table 18 The agent according to the invention significantly improves the radiance of the complexion. From the first application, the radiation of the skin is increased, the state of fatigue of the eyes decreased and the skin texture refined.
    The results of the perceived performance on the closed questions of mirror self-assessment are presented in Table 19.
    Table 19
    The formula containing the agent according to the invention is perceived globally as being more effective than the placebo formula by the volunteers having tested it. From the first application, 91% of the subjects feel an immediate tightening effect, find their skin smoother and more luminous.
    After 3 applications of the mask-cream formula, all the subjects having tested the agent according to the invention find their skin more hydrated and comfortable. They have also been able to observe a skin that is smoother and visibly more tense. c) Effect of the Agent According to the Invention on Makeup Performance The objective of this study is to evaluate, in vivo, against placebo the influence of the agent according to the invention (Example 2) formulated at 0 , 50% on the behavior over time of a dyed background (Example 7).
    The foundation of the foundation was quantified on digital photographs. The foundation formulated agent was applied in the morning in real conditions of use, at home by the volunteers. Immediately after application and then at the end of the day (on average 11 hours after application), volunteers completed a self-assessment questionnaire.
    The results corresponding to the loss of color intensity of a foundation under the effect of the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.50% over time in comparison with a placebo are shown in Table 20.
    Table 20
    Under the conditions of this study, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.50% in a foundation makes it possible to significantly lengthen the makeup resistance compared to the placebo formula (+ 33% time saved). This effect was observed in 63% of the volunteers.
    Under these conditions of use, the agent formulated at 0.50% in a foundation is generally better perceived by the users who prefer it to the foundation of placebo. 4) Second skin film effect "beauty booster":
    Tests to demonstrate that faces treated with the agent according to the invention were perceived by third parties as more attractive or less wrinkled, have also been put in place.
    Thus, naive evaluators have judged that: in 53% of the cases the agent according to the invention increases the attractiveness of the face of young volunteers, in 55% of cases the agent according to the invention makes it possible to reduce wrinkles face in mature people.
    We also carried out two consumer tests in France and in Asia. The Caucasian volunteers applied the agent according to the invention, twice daily, in an emulsified gel for 14 days. Asian volunteers performed a cure based on 6 applications in mask tissue for 15 days.
    These two studies reveal that the treatment with the agent according to the invention is systematically better noted than the placebo. Caucasian volunteers report that their skin is toned, firmer and lifted with sharper facial contours and a redesigned oval. According to statements by Asian volunteers, their complexion is more radiant and luminous, their skin is toned and more supple. The effectiveness of the agent according to the invention has been confirmed by the users themselves as well as by third parties. This film-forming agent acts as a real beauty enhancer by improving the attractiveness of the faces of young people and the wrinkled appearance of mature skin.
    In summary, the agent according to the invention was tested on two types of skin (Caucasian and Asian), after 14 analysis times (instantaneous, medium-term, long-term) for 5 doses (0.05% to 1% ) and in 7 different cosmetic formulas (emulsion, gel-emulsified, gel, serum, foundation, cream mask and fabric mask). a) Effect of the agent according to the invention on the attractiveness perceived by a third party The objective of this study was to evaluate, in vivo, whether the effect of the agent according to the invention (Example 2) formulated at 0.50% mask-cream (example 8), on the overall improvement of the face perceived by naive evaluators. The attractiveness of the face has been scored on digital photographs.
    The masks-creams (placebo or agent according to the invention) were applied in a thick layer on the entire face. The volunteers had to let him act for 20 minutes before penetrating the excess by massaging with the fingertips.
    The panels are a panel of young skin (44 healthy volunteers of middle age 40 years) and a panel of mature skin (40 healthy volunteers, mean age 62 years).
    The results corresponding to the effect of the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.50% in mask-cream on the attractiveness of the face on the young panel are presented in Table 21, on the wrinkles of the mature panel in the table 22.
    Table 21
    Under the conditions of this study, after three applications of a mask-cream containing 0.50% of the agent according to the invention, naive evaluators have observed an improvement in the appearance of the face in 53% of cases against only 25% of cases for subjects who tested the placebo formula.
    Table 22
    Under the conditions of this study, after three applications of a mask-cream containing 0.50% of the agent according to the invention, naive evaluators observed a decrease in facial wrinkles in 45% of cases against only 25% cases for subjects who tested the placebo formula. The agent according to the invention formulated at 0.50% in a cream mask therefore makes it possible to visibly reduce facial wrinkles.
    b) Consumer studies of the agent according to the invention Two consumer studies were conducted to demonstrate the effect of the agent according to the invention, a study on French consumers, a study on Asian consumers. The objective of the French consumer test is to compare the effectiveness of a treatment containing the agent according to the invention (Example 2) formulated at 0.50% gel-emulsified (Example 4) to its placebo. 136 women living in France, between 40 and 55 years old, having all types of skin without a sensitivity quota, claiming to have wrinkles and / or fine lines as well as a dull, lackluster complexion and users of tensor care. 68 women used the placebo and 68 women the agent according to the invention.
    The sensations observed during treatment were assessed using self-report questionnaires completed at home. The evaluations were performed 30 minutes after a first application and the 8th and 15th day of testing. The panelists applied the treatment on the entire face, on perfectly cleansed skin, twice a day, morning and evening, for 14 days, in place of their usual face care.
    The results of the closed questions after the first application are shown in Table 23.
    Table 23
    The results of the closed questions after 7 days of twice-daily applications presented in Table 24.
    Table 24
    The results of closed questions after 14 days of twice-daily applications are shown in Table 25.
    Table 25
    The results of free comments after 14 days of twice-daily applications are shown in Table 26.
    Table 26 Overall, under the conditions of this study, women who used the formula containing the agent according to the invention gave better results for each item than those who tested the placebo formula.
    There are significantly more volunteers who found their skin more toned, firmer, as lifted with sharper facial contours and a redesigned oval. The objective of the Asian consumer test is to compare the effectiveness of a mask tissue (Example 9) containing the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.50% or a placebo formula. 134 Asian women, between 30 and 50 years old living in Singapore, having all types of skin without sensitivity quota, claiming to have wrinkles and / or fine lines as well as a dull, lackluster complexion and users masks for face care. 66 women tested the agent according to the invention and 68 women the placebo.
    The sensations observed during treatment were assessed using self-report questionnaires completed at home. The evaluations were carried out after application of the first mask and after application of the other 5 masks. The masks were made at OJ, D3, D6, D9, D12 and D15.
    The results of closed questions after 1 application are shown in Table 27.
    Table 27
    The results of closed questions after 6 applications are presented in Table 28.
    Overall, under the conditions of this study, women who used masks soaked with the lotion containing the agent of the invention gave better results for each item than those who tested the placebo formula.
    There are significantly more volunteers who have found their complexion brighter and brighter and their skin more toned and more flexible.
    权利要求:
    Claims (21)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent, consisting of galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa and crosslinked sulphated galactans obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii, with molar masses of between 1 and 150 kDa.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists of galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa molar masses of between 1 and 150kDa, and crosslinked sulfated galactans obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii molar masses. between 7 and 40kDa.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, having an average molar mass of between 8 and 25 kDa.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa have an average molar mass of between 8 and 25 kDa, and the crosslinked sulphated galactans obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii exhibit a average molar mass between 8 and 20kDa.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the galactomannans are obtained by hydrolysis of galactomannans of Caesalpinia spinosa.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sulphated galactans are obtained by hydrolysis of sulfated galactans of Kappaphycus alvarezii.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sulphated galactans are crosslinked.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sulphated galactans are crosslinked with a crosslinking agent of ionic nature.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of: 60 to 90% of galactomannans, and 10 to 40% of crosslinked sulfated galactans, the percentages being given in mass / mass.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of: 70 to 90% of galactomannans, and 10 to 30% of crosslinked sulfated galactans, the percentages being given in mass / mass.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    Cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinked sulphated galactomannans and sulphated galactans together form an interpenetrating network.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Cosmetic use of an agent according to one of the preceding claims, as a cosmetic or dermocosmetic tensor and / or film-forming agent.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Cosmetic use of an agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, as a cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent for improving the brightness of the skin and / or smoothing the skin.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Use of an agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, for improving the barrier effect of the skin.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Use of an agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, as a cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent for a cosmetic effect protecting the skin.
    [16" id="c-fr-0016]
    16. Use according to the preceding claim, for a skin-protecting cosmetic or dermocosmetic effect against the penetration of toxic, polluting, allergenic or irritating molecules.
    [17" id="c-fr-0017]
    17. Use of an agent according to one of claims 12 to 16 for combating the unsightly manifestations of aging of the skin.
    [18" id="c-fr-0018]
    18. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition suitable for topical application to human skin comprising at least 0.1% of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 11.
    [19" id="c-fr-0019]
    19. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic process for improving the state of the skin, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin a cosmetic composition according to claim 18.
    [20" id="c-fr-0020]
    20. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic process according to claim 19, for improving the radiance of the skin.
    [21" id="c-fr-0021]
    21. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic process according to claim 19, for combating the unsightly manifestations of aging of the skin.
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    FR3094230A1|2020-10-02|HAIR USE OF THE ASSOCIATION OF GALACTOMANNANS OBTAINED FROM CAESALPINIA SPINOSA AND CROSS-LINED SULPHATED GALACTANS OBTAINED FROM KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII
    FR2992554A1|2014-01-03|Performing non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of skin aging, comprises subjecting skin to mechanical action, and applying a cosmetic composition comprising an agent for reducing a visibility of pore size and/or improving shininess to skin
    FR2947172A1|2010-12-31|COSMETIC COMPOSITION, SKIN TREATMENT KIT, PROCESS FOR TREATING FATTY, MIXED OR ACNEIC SKINS
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    WO2017129780A1|2017-08-03|
    EP3407866A1|2018-12-05|
    US10987297B2|2021-04-27|
    US20190070093A1|2019-03-07|
    ES2880098T3|2021-11-23|
    FR3047173B1|2018-02-09|
    EP3407866B1|2021-04-14|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    WO1984004039A1|1983-04-11|1984-10-25|Fmc Corp|Toiletry formulations|
    EP0730867A2|1995-03-09|1996-09-11|RES PHARMA S.r.l.|Non-animal polyanions for use in dermatology and cosmetics|
    WO1998019663A1|1996-11-04|1998-05-14|Apr Applied Pharma Research S.A.|Compositions for topical use containing polysaccharide sulphates|
    FR2881349A1|2005-01-28|2006-08-04|Biolog Vegetale Yves Rocher Sa|Use of galactomannans for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition to increase the activity of integrins in basal keratinocytes|
    FR2986430A1|2012-02-06|2013-08-09|Limousine D Applic Biolog Soc Ind|USE OF ACTIVE PRINCIPLE FROM EUCHEUMA COTTONII RICH IN LINEAR GALACTANES TO FIGHT CUTANEOUS CELL SENESCENCE|
    FR3018448A1|2014-03-12|2015-09-18|Limousine D Applic Biolog Soc Ind|ACTIVE PRINCIPLE OBTAINED FROM ALGAE HYPNEA MUSCIFORMIS AND COSMETIC USES|FR3094230A1|2019-04-01|2020-10-02|Societe Limousine D'application Biologique|HAIR USE OF THE ASSOCIATION OF GALACTOMANNANS OBTAINED FROM CAESALPINIA SPINOSA AND CROSS-LINED SULPHATED GALACTANS OBTAINED FROM KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII|DE3335593C2|1983-09-30|1989-10-19|Diamalt Ag, 8000 Muenchen, De|
    AU8110001A|2000-08-03|2002-02-18|Hercules Inc|Reduced molecular weight galactomannans oxidized by galactose oxidase|
    DK1663326T3|2003-09-08|2010-06-21|Fmc Biopolymer As|Gel foam based on biopolymer|
    FR2882366B1|2005-02-18|2008-04-18|Coletica Sa|RETICULATED CARBOHYDRATE POLYMER, IN PARTICULAR BASED ON POLYSACCHARIDES AND / OR POLYOLS|WO2019122778A1|2017-12-22|2019-06-27|L V M H Recherche|Cosmetic composition for the treatment of oily skin|
    FR3075647B1|2017-12-22|2020-05-22|L V M H Recherche|MAKE-UP COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HYDROLYSATE OF THEOBROMA COCOA BEANS, AND AT LEAST ONE PREBIOTIC AND ONE PROBIOTIC|
    FR3075621B1|2017-12-22|2020-01-17|L V M H Recherche|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN EXTRACT OF CAESALPINIA SPINOSA, AN EXTRACT OF KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII, AND A HYDROLYSAT OF BEANS OF THEOBROMA COCOA L|
    FR3075622B1|2017-12-22|2020-01-17|L V M H Recherche|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN EXTRACT OF CAESALPINIA SPINOSA, AN EXTRACT OF KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII, AT LEAST ONE PREBIOTIC AND ONE PROBIOTIC.|
    FR3106495A1|2020-01-29|2021-07-30|Gelyma|Cosmetic composition comprising extracts of Kappaphycus alvarezii for anti-irritation, anti-redness and anti-itching care of the scalp|
    法律状态:
    2017-01-27| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2017-08-04| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20170804 |
    2018-01-30| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2020-01-28| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2021-01-26| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2022-01-25| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1650741|2016-01-29|
    FR1650741A|FR3047173B1|2016-01-29|2016-01-29|COSMETIC AGENT CONSISTING OF GALACTOMANNANES OBTAINED FROM CAESALPINIA SPINOSA AND SULFATE GALACTANES OBTAINED FROM KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII|FR1650741A| FR3047173B1|2016-01-29|2016-01-29|COSMETIC AGENT CONSISTING OF GALACTOMANNANES OBTAINED FROM CAESALPINIA SPINOSA AND SULFATE GALACTANES OBTAINED FROM KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII|
    US16/072,261| US10987297B2|2016-01-29|2017-01-27|Cosmetic agent formed by galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa and cross-linked sulphated galactans obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii |
    PCT/EP2017/051827| WO2017129780A1|2016-01-29|2017-01-27|Cosmetic agent consisting of galactomannans obtained from caesalpinia spinosa and cross-linked sulphated galactans obtained from kappaphycus alvarezii|
    EP17704683.6A| EP3407866B1|2016-01-29|2017-01-27|Cosmetic agent consisting of galactomannans obtained from caesalpinia spinosa and cross-linked sulphated galactans obtained from kappaphycus alvarezii|
    ES17704683T| ES2880098T3|2016-01-29|2017-01-27|Cosmetic agent consisting of galactomannans obtained from Caesalpinia spinosa and cross-linked galactan sulfates obtained from Kappaphycus alvarezii|
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