• 专利附录
  • 专利说明
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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to an aqueous gel-type composition comprising from 7.5% to 13.5% by dry weight relative to its total weight of at least one C 1 -C 4 carboxyalkyl of modified crosslinked starch and at least one monoalcohol in C2-C5. A composition according to the invention is particularly useful as a mask for cleaning the skin and in particular the face. The present invention furthermore relates to a process for its preparation, a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials and a cosmetic process for cleaning a keratin material.
    公开号:FR3046069A1
    申请号:FR1563339
    申请日:2015-12-24
    公开日:2017-06-30
    发明作者:Emmanuelle Camblong；Celine Demarcq；Valerie Page
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    The present invention relates to the field of skincare compositions for keratinous substances, more particularly that of skin cleansing compositions and in particular cleansing masks for the skin of the face.
    The products of the type of beauty mask are well known in the cosmetic field. These beauty masks consist of films which form on application to the treated skin and which, after drying with a certain pause time, are removed by rinsing or peeling, that is to say by pulling or linting by forming fluff more or less large masks based on synthetic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone or polyvinyl alcohol or natural polymers such as alginates associated with calcium ions.
    They can be in the form of gel, emulsion or paste. It is thus described in the literature, for example in "Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations", Second Edition, Ernest W. Flick 1992, various formulas of this type of mask. However, the preferred dosage for the preparation of cleaning mask type compositions is generally an aqueous gel type of galenic.
    Indeed, this galenic aqueous gel provides a slight feeling on application and during the break time. In addition, it has the advantage of providing a transparent / translucent visual appearance and a feeling of freshness to the application, two effects particularly appreciated by the user. It is also easy to remove after use, since a rinsing with water can suffice.
    Unfortunately, a large portion of the aqueous gel formulations also have a drag-and-drop effect and provide a rough, sticky skin-like finish associated with a lack of softness. In addition, their appearance is generally perceived as "viscous, glairy" and its catch shooting. To overcome these negative aspects, it is customary to formulate these aqueous gels with a fatty liquid phase which requires to be unfortunately associated with at least one emulsifying agent. However, the addition of an emulsifying agent very often results in the loss of the transparent / translucent appearance (opacification) and can generate discomfort notably in the context of a mask application (that is to say in thick layer with a long pause time). It also changes the sensory perception of the aqueous gel and thus contributes to a loss of sensation of lightness and freshness.
    There remains therefore a need for beauty mask type products devoid of the aforementioned drawbacks.
    In addition, there is an expectation for products having an improved environmental profile, in particular by proposing new alternative galenics to the polyethylene balls conventionally considered in this type of product to provide a more effective skin cleaning.
    Finally, there is now a clear consumer appeal for so-called natural cosmetics because they use as essential components natural, natural and / or certified organic ingredients.
    As a result, users are looking for products that meet their expectations in terms of both cosmetics and sensoriality, which have a lower environmental impact, and that prefer natural, natural and / or certified ingredients. organic.
    The present invention is precisely to meet these expectations.
    Thus, the present invention aims primarily, a particular cosmetic composition, in particular, care, and / or cleaning of the skin and more particularly skin cleaning mask type, said composition being of the aqueous gel type, and comprising from 7.5% to 13.5% by dry weight of at least one C 1 -C 4 carboxyalkyl starch crosslinked with respect to its total weight and at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol.
    Advantageously, the composition is monophasic.
    More specifically, the inventors have found that the combination, in an aqueous medium, of a gelling system formed of at least one crosslinked modified starch and a lower C2-C5 alcohol and in particular ethanol makes it possible to access to a particularly advantageous aqueous gel to form a cleaning mask with the expected sensory properties while not requiring the presence of fatty substances and preferably containing less than 0.5% by weight of surfactants whose presence can induce undesirable effects .
    The gelling system considered according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain gels of different viscosities, ranging from a care dosage form to that of a thicker mask. As representative, modified crosslinked starches suitable for the invention can be particularly mentioned those derived from starches obtained from the tuber of the potato.
    It may especially be a cross-linked sodium carboxymethyl starch [INCI "sodium carboxymethyl starch"] as for example marketed under the commercial reference "Glycolys" by Roquette.
    This type of product is known to inventors essentially valued in industrial fields very different from cosmetics such as those of food and pharmacy where they are used as excipients to improve the solubilization and bioavailability of drug or any other compound, a function totally different from that considered according to the invention.
    The inventors have further found that its implementation in a form associated with ethanol makes it possible, unexpectedly, to obtain an immediate fresh effect potentiated by the structure of the gelling agent.
    Consequently, a composition according to the invention, in particular of the cleaning mask type, is advantageous for several reasons.
    First of all, and as can be seen from the explanations below, they provide sensory properties and expected efficiency.
    More specifically, they have a soft, homogeneous, translucent, matte appearance with a slight "granite" appearance.
    In the sense of the invention, "flexible" characterizes the facts that the composition is able to deform under the grip on the finger and is easy to grip.
    For the purposes of the invention, "homogeneous" means that the composition is formed of a single phase with the identical structure in every respect.
    For the purposes of the invention, "mat" means non-glossy.
    For the purposes of the invention, "translucent" means that the composition according to the invention partially allows light to pass without clearly distinguishing an object on the other side.
    In the sense of the invention, "granite" characterizes an appearance with a slight granular effect, iced-frosted.
    They are stable over time and at a temperature ranging from 4 ° C to 55 ° C.
    They provide, upon application, particularly beneficial sensory sensations such as freshness and slipperiness.
    Finally, as is apparent from the examples below, their elimination after use can be easily achieved by simple rinsing or linting gentle exfoliation.
    They provide effective skin cleansing while being gentle and result in a soft, non-sticky skin finish.
    Moreover, as opposed to cleaning compositions based on polyethylene bead, the compositions according to the invention have a significantly reduced environmental impact.
    Finally, they can be essentially composed of natural ingredients or of natural origin.
    For the purposes of the invention, the natural raw materials come from the category of the plant, the mineral or the marine world (seaweed for example) or products of the hive and are not transformed or physically transformed. Raw materials of natural origin come from the same categories and are chemically transformed preferentially according to the principles of green chemistry, that is to say with the least impacting environmental impact possible (see Anastas P., Warner JC Green Chemistry, Oxford University Press, New York, 1998, p.30).
    The present invention also provides a process for the preparation of said composition comprising at least the steps of providing a homogeneous aqueous dispersion of at least 7.5% by dry weight of at least one C 1 -C 4 carboxyalkyl starch crosslinked modified with respect to the total weight of said aqueous dispersion and bringing this aqueous dispersion into contact with at least one lower C2-C5 monoalcohol.
    It also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, in which a composition as defined according to the invention is applied to said keratin materials, and in particular the skin.
    As can be seen from the foregoing, a composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a composition for cleaning the skin and preferably a mask for cleaning the skin and more particularly the face.
    It also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning a keratin material, especially the skin and more particularly the skin of the face, comprising at least the steps of: - forming on the surface of said keratinous material to be treated with a mask from of a composition according to the invention, and - removing said mask by rinsing and / or linting.
    DETAILED DESCRIPTION
    The composition according to the invention is advantageously cosmetic.
    "Cosmetic composition" is understood to mean a substance or a preparation intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body, in particular the epidermis, the lips, the oral mucosa, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to clean them, to beautify them, to perfume them, to modify their appearance, to protect them, to keep them in good condition or to correct body odors.
    The composition according to the invention may comprise a "physiologically acceptable medium".
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is suitable for administering a composition topically, and compatible with all the keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, scalp and / or hair, or any other skin area of the body. According to the invention, a physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, or unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the topiary administration route.
    As mentioned above, the compositions according to the invention have a suitable viscosity on the one hand for a finger grip and a homogeneous spread on the skin by the user at the time of application and on the other hand to hold on the skin during the break time without undesirable flow.
    This viscosity advantageously varies at least equal to 20 Pa.s and preferably greater than 100 Pa.s at a shear rate of 1 s -1.
    A composition according to the invention also has a certain elasticity. This elasticity can be characterized by a complex modulus G * which, under this minimum stress threshold, is at least equal to 500 Pa and preferably greater than 3000 Pa. The value G * d a composition can be obtained by subjecting the composition under consideration to a deformation of 0.1% in the linear regime and for a frequency set at 1 Hz.
    These values in Pas are determined by oscillation and obtained at 25 ° C. using an imposed stress rheometer, MARSH HAAKE, equipped with a plane-cone measuring body (diameter 60 mm 1 degree and sandblasted titanium 25 ° C). For each measurement, the sample is set up gently and the air gap is set at 0.052 mm
    The compositions according to the invention are also characterized by a viscosity of 50 UD to 150 UD.
    This measurement is carried out using a Rheometer (Rheoma RM200 LAMY) using the mobile 4. The viscosity is taken at J1, then T2M at room temperature and at 45 ° C. The measurement is thermostated at 25 ° C.
    Carboxyalkyls in (Ci-Cf of crosslinked starch
    A composition according to the invention of 7.5% to 13.5% by dry weight, advantageously from 7.5% to 12% by dry weight and preferably from 9% to 12% by dry weight of at least one starch crosslinked modified according to the invention, relative to its total weight.
    Indeed, as is apparent from the examples below, a too small amount of modified crosslinked starch does not allow access to a stabilized gel structure over a satisfactory period.
    Similarly too much proportion of modified reticulated starch leads to a formulation insufficiently satisfactory in terms of handling because too thick and therefore more difficult to spread on the skin homogeneously. This consistency does not depend on that expected for an aqueous gel according to the invention.
    The starch derivatives used in the present invention may be from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruits.
    Thus, the starch (s) may come from a vegetable source selected from corn, peas, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, tapioca and sorghum. The starch is preferably from the potato.
    The starches are generally in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles varies from 15 to 100 microns.
    In the context of the present invention, these starches are used in a crosslinked form and in a form chemically modified by functionalization with carboxyalkyl units.
    Crosslinking aims to form a network much more stable to heat and better resistant to heat and acidity. The starch chains are interconnected by linking molecules: phosphate derivatives, chloroepoxide derivatives, acid dianhydrides and aldehyde derivatives.
    The (C 1 -C 4) carboxyalkyls of starch, hereinafter referred to as "carboxyalkyl starch", are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups on one or more alcohol functional groups of the starch, in particular by reacting starch and sodium monochloroacetate in a medium. alkaline.
    The carboxyalkyl groups are generally attached via an ether function, more particularly to carbon 1.
    The degree of carboxyalkyl substitution of the carboxy (C1-C4) starch is preferably from 0.1 to 1 and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5. The degree of substitution is defined according to the present invention as being the average number of hydroxyl groups substituted with an ester or ether group per monosaccharide unit of the polysaccharide.
    The carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously used in the form of salts and especially of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts such as Na, K, Li, NH 4, of a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as mono, di or triethanolamine. .
    The C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously in the context of the present invention carboxymethyl starches.
    The carboxymethyl starches preferably comprise units of the following formula: ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ##
    Wherein X, whether or not covalently bound to the carboxylic unit, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH 4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine such as, for example, mono, di or triethanolamine.
    Preferably, X denotes an Na + cation.
    The carboxyalkyl starches which can be used according to the present invention are partially or totally crosslinked carboxyalkyl starches. In general, a crosslinked carboxyalkyl starch has, as opposed to a non-crosslinked carboxyalkyl starch, an increased viscosity, controllable and increased stability. The crosslinking thus makes it possible to reduce the syneresis phenomena and to increase the resistance of the gel to shearing effects. It also makes it possible to increase the hydrophilicity of the material as well as its rate of disintegration.
    The carboxyalkyl starches considered according to the invention are more particularly potato carboxyalkyl starches.
    Thus, the carboxyalkyl starches which can be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxyalkyl starch, in particular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethyl starch sold, for example, under the name PRIMOJEL by the company DMV International or GLYCOLYS® and GLYCOLYS LV® by the Roquette Company.
    According to a particular embodiment, use will be made of potato carboxymethyl starch sold in particular under the name GLYCOLYS® by the company Roquette.
    It should be noted that the starchy C1-C4 carboxyalkyl particles are present in the compositions according to the invention in an inflated form.
    According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, these particles are used for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, in this swollen particulate state. To do this, these particles are advantageously used in the form of an aqueous formulation, either previously prepared or already commercially available. The gels considered according to the invention are advantageously translucent.
    Aqueous phase
    A composition according to the invention therefore has an aqueous phase which advantageously constitutes its single fluid phase. As specified above, a composition according to the invention is advantageously monophasic. In other words, it is different from an emulsion.
    Thus, it comprises at most 0.5% by weight of liquid or solid fatty substance relative to its total weight. The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and at least one lower monoalcohol having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular represented by at least or even only ethanol.
    The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content greater than 60% by weight, ranging from 70% to 95% by weight, preferably from 75% to 90% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 80% to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of said composition.
    The weight of the aqueous phase considered above incorporates the weight of the weighted aqueous phase of the weight of all the soluble additional compounds in this aqueous phase.
    Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises from 6% to 12.5%, preferably from 8% to 10% by weight of lower monoalcohol and preferably of ethanol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Thus, according to a preferred variant of the invention, the modified crosslinked starch / lower monoalcohol gelling system and preferably ethanol is implemented in a weight ratio of at least 0.9 and preferably greater than 1.2. or even greater than 1.5.
    Active
    An aqueous gel composition according to the invention is also particularly advantageous for carrying one or more assets especially dedicated to providing the user with a sensory benefit such as for example a freshness, soothing and / or repairing effect.
    In view of the expectation of consumers for products described as natural, it is advantageous to formulate in the compositions according to the invention one or more extracts of vegetable raw material. As an illustration of these assets may be particularly mentioned hydrolats and in particular extracts of Aloe vera.
    According to a preferred variant, a composition according to the invention contains, as active ingredient, at least one hydrosol.
    hydrolat
    In the context of the present invention, the term "hydrolate" is understood to mean an aqueous distillate obtained from a vegetable raw material by stripping with water vapor. The training with water vapor corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance poorly miscible with water. The hydrolate according to the invention may be an aqueous distillate, obtained from a whole plant and / or a part of this plant, which remains after the steaming, once the separation of the essential oil carried out. The raw material may be brought into the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor causes the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the refrigerant to be recovered in liquid phase in a florentine (or essencier) vase where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The "hydrosol" is thus the aqueous distillate which remains in the steam distillation once the separation of the essential oil has been carried out.
    A hydrolate according to the invention may also be called "aromatic water". The hydrolate can also be called a plant water, such as "plant water" when it is obtained from an entire plant or a part of it, or "floral water" when the hydrosol is obtained from flowers. The hydrolate according to the invention can be obtained from a plant (or any botanically defined plant raw material), in particular from a plant as a whole and / or from a part of a plant. The plant may be in particular a plant, a shrub or a flower. The hydrosol can be obtained from a whole plant, preferably a plant or a flower, or a part of this plant chosen from flowers, leaves, stems, seeds, fruits, roots, petals, buds, which can be at various states of dryness (dry, withered, fresh form), and their mixtures.
    Particularly in the context of the present invention, the hydrosol is a hydrosol of a plant and / or a part of a plant selected from the family Rosaceae, preferably Rosa genus, the family Asteraceae, preferably genus Centaurea and / or or genus Chamaemelum, the Lamiaceae family, preferably genus Lavandula, of the family Rutaceae, preferably genus Citrus, the family Lamiaceae, preferably the genus Melissa and / or the genus Mentha, of the family Verbenaceae, preferably genus Aloysia, preferably genus Hordeum, the family of Poaceas, preferably genus Rosmarinus officinalis of the family Lamiaceae (or labiate), preferably genus Cupressus of the family Cupressaceae, preferably genus Thymus of the family Lamiaceae (or labiae), preferably genus Salvia from the family Lamiaceae or labiae, preferably genus Nepeta from the family Lamiaceae, preferably genus Hamamelis from the family Hamamelidac (preferably Tilia) of the family Tiliaceae, or Malvaceae, subfamily Tilioideae, preferably genus Satureja family Lamiaceae and mixtures thereof
    More particularly in the context of the present invention, Thydrolat is a hydrosol of a plant and / or a part of a plant selected from Rosa damascena, Centauria cyanus, Anthemis nobilis or Chamaemelum nobile, Lavandula angustifolia, Citrus aurantium amara, Melissa officinalis, Mentha piperrita, Lippia citriodora, Hordeum vulgare, Rosmarinus officinalis, Cupressus sempervirens, Thymus vulgaris, Salvia officinalis, Nepeta cataria, Hamamelis virginiana, Tilia cordata, Satureja montana and mixtures thereof.
    More particularly Thydrolat present in a composition according to the invention is selected from a hydrosol obtained from the flowers of Rosa Damascena, the floral part of Centaurea cyanus L., flowers of Anthemis nobilis L., flowers of Lavandula angustifolia, citrus flowers of aurantium L. ssp Amara, of the aerial part of Melissa officinalis L., leaves of Mentha piperita L., or leaves of Lippia citriodora HB & KUNTZE, tillers of Hordeum vulgare, leaves and twigs of Rosmarinus officinalis, leaves and twigs of Cupressus sempervirens, aerial part of Thymus vulgaris, leaves Salvia officinalis, aerial part Nepeta cataria, leaves amamelis virginiana , Tilia cordata flowers, Satureja montana L. flowering part and mixtures thereof. By way of example, Rosa Damascena's Thydrolat, obtained from Rosa Damascena flowers, or Rose Damascena MILLER hydrosol., Or Rose hydrosol, is especially available under the trade name HYDROLAT DE ROSE BIO® (100% active ingredient) from Elixens. By way of example, the hydrolate of Centaurea Cyanus or hydrolate of Centaurea Cyanus L. or hydrolate of Cornflower is in particular available under the trade name HYDROLAT BLEUET COSM. BIO DIST® (100% active ingredient) from Elixens. By way of example, hydrolate of Anthémis Nobilis or hydrolate of Anthémis Nobilis L. or hydrolate of Chamomile is especially available under the trade name HYDROLAT CAMOMILLE ROMAINE BIO SIC A® (100% active ingredient) of the company Elixens. For example, Thydrolat of Lavandula Angustifolia or hydrosol of Lavandula Angustifolia MILLER or Lavender hydrosol is in particular available under the trade name HYDROLAT DE LAVANDE BIO SIC A® (100% active ingredient) from Elixens. By way of example, Thyrolate of Citrus of Aurantium Amara or hydrosol of Citrus of Aurantium L. ssp amara or orange hydrolate is especially available under the trade name HYDROLAT ORANGE FLOWERS BIO® (100% active ingredient). the company Elixens. By way of example, Thydrolat from Melissa Officinalis or hydrolate from Melissa Officinalis L. or Melisse hydrolate is especially available under the trade name HYDROLAT MELISSE BIO SIC A® (100% active ingredient) from Elixens. By way of example, Thydrolat from Mentha piperita or Mentha piperrita L. hydrolate or Peppermint hydrolate is especially available under the trade name HYDROLAT MINT PEPPER BIO SIC A® (100% active ingredient) from Elixens. For example, Thydrolat of Lippia Citriodora or Lippia Hydrolat Citriodora HB & KUNTZE or hydrolyzate aloysia trphylla or hydrosol of Verbena is especially available under the trade name HYDROLAT DE VERVEINE BIO DIST® (100% active ingredient) from the company Elixens. By way of example, Thydrolat from Hordeum vulgare or hydrolate from Hordeum vulgare tillers or barley hydrolate is especially available under the trade name AQUACELL BIO ORGE PRB from the company HERBAROM. By way of example, the Rosmarinus officinalis hydrolate or hydrolate of the leaves and twigs of Rosmarinus officinalis, or rosemary hydrolyzate is especially available under the trade name, is in particular available under the trade name HYDROLAT ROMARIN BIO SICA from the company ELIXENS. For example, Thydrolat of Cupressus sempervirens, or hydrolate of the leaves and branches of Cupressus sempervirens, or hydrolate of Cypress, is in particular available under the trade name HYDROLAT CYPRES BIO SICA from the company ELIXENS. By way of example, the hydrolate of Thymus vulgaris, or hydrolate of the flowering aerial part of Thymus vulgaris, or hydrolate of Thyme, is especially available under the trade name HYDROLAT THYM LINALOL BIO SICA from the company ELIXENS. By way of example, Thydrolat of Salvia officinalis, or hydrolate of Salvia officinalis leaves, or hydrosol of Sage officinale, is in particular available under the trade name HYDROLAT SAUGE BIO SICA from the company ELIXENS. For example, the hydrolyzate of Nepeta cataria or hydrolate of the aerial part Nepeta cataria, or lemon catnip hydrolate, is especially available under the trade name HYDROLAT CATAIRE CITRONNEE BIO SICA from the company ELIXENS. By way of example, Thydrolat of Hamamelis virginiana, or hydrolate of leaves of amamelis virginiana, or hydrolate of Hamamelis, is especially available under the trade name FLORAL WATER OF HAMAMELIS BIO 22.5% of the company ELIXENS. By way of example, thydrolat of Tilia cordata, or hydrolate of Tilia cordata flowers, or hydrolate of Linden tree, is especially available under the trade name FLOWER WATER OF TILLEUL BIO 5% of the company ELIXENS.
    For example, Thydrolat Satureja montana, or hydrosol Satureja montana flower air part, or hydrosol Sariette mountains, is available under the trade name HYDROLAT SARRIETTE SICA BIO ELIXENS company
    The hydrolats of Rose, Cornflower, Melissa and Mint are particularly suitable for the invention.
    In the composition according to the invention, the hydrosol may be present at a content of at least 5% by weight, and at most 86% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight and even more preferred from 40% by weight. % to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    According to another particular variant, a composition according to the invention may also contain Yaloe Vera especially for its restorative and soothing valence.
    In a particular embodiment according to the invention, the aloe vera extract may be present, in a composition according to the invention, at a content of at least 0.01% by weight, and at most 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The material preferably used is known under the trade reference ALOE VERA FREEZE DRIED POWDER 200: 1 from MEXI ALOE LAB.
    Thus, according to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one aloe vera extract and / or a hydrolate of a plant and / or a part of a plant, chosen in particular from Rosa Damascena, Centaurea Cyanus, Anthemis Nobilis, Lavandula Angustifolia, Amaris Citrus Aurantium, Melissa Officinalis, Mentha Piperrita, Lippia Citriodora, Hordeum vulgare, Rosmarinus oficinalis, Cupressus sempervirens, Thymus vulgaris, Salvia officinalis, Nepeta cataria, Hamamelis virginiana, Tilia cordata, Satureja montana and their mixtures.
    For a particular care application, a composition according to the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant).
    The moisturizing agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 17% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, or even from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to to the total weight of said composition.
    As humectants or moisturizers, there may be mentioned in particular sorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, preferably C2-C8, and more preferably C3-C6, such as preferably glycerin, 1,3 propanediol, propylene glycol , 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diglycerine, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, glycerol and its derivatives, glycol ethers (in particular having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol and, preferably, glycerine.
    Other active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, vitamins and their mixtures.
    The additional active agent (s) and advantageously hydrophilic (s) may be present (s) in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0, From 1% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The additional active agents for a cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, such as the skin, that can be used in the compositions of the invention may be chosen in particular from desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, antioxidants, astringent agents, anti-aging agents, firming agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and mixtures thereof.
    The composition according to the invention comprises at most 0.5% by weight of oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
    If present, the oil is chosen from volatile oils such as, in particular, essential oils, lipophilic antioxidants such as tocopherol or from perfume compositions.
    According to a particular variant, a composition according to the invention is free of silicone oil.
    According to a preferred variant, a composition according to the invention contains at most 5% by weight of surfactants relative to its total weight.
    According to another preferred variant, a composition according to the invention comprises at most 0.5% by weight of surfactant relative to its total weight. According to a particular variant, a composition according to the invention is devoid (free) of surfactant. As surfactants that may be present in the composition, nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be mentioned, promoting the solubilization of perfume, the elimination of makeup and impurities.
    According to another particular variant, a composition according to the invention may contain one or more foaming surfactants.
    As surfactants that are suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of: (1) nonionic surfactants, such as oxyethylenated oxypropylene block polymers such as, for example, Poloxamer 184 (CTFA name); fatty esters such as, for example, Emulgin CO 60® (PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL®), C12-C24 alkanols etherified with 7 to 40 ethylene oxide units per fatty molecule, such as, for example, laureth-7 , Genapol LA 070 (Clariant International Ltd,) or Steareth-20 eg Genapol HS 200 (Clariant International Ltd).
    Mention may also be made of the mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, especially sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Croda. (2) anionic surfactants, such as alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and their salts, especially their sodium salts, for instance the mixture of Sodium Laureth Sulfate / Magnesium Lauryl Sulfate / Sodium Laureth-8 Sulfate / Magnesium Lauryl-8 Sulfate sold under the name Texapon ASV® by Henkel; sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (2.2 EO) marketed in particular under the names SIPON AOS 225® or TEXAPON N702 PATE® by the company Henkel, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (3 EO), in particular that sold under the name Siponea 370® by Henkel; the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (9 EO) ammonium sulfate especially that under the name Rhodapex AB / 20 ® by the company Rhodia Chimie.
    Mention may also be made of sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates,
    Examples of sulphonates that may be mentioned are alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium talpha-olefin sulphonate (C 14-16), especially that under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 (R) by Stepan, especially those marketed under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTECTED (R) and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12 (R) by the company Witco or in particular that marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by Stepan, secondary olefine sodium sulfonate, in particular that marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30 (R) denomination by the company Clariant; linear alkyl aryl sulphonates such as sodium xylene sulphonate, in particular those sold under the names MANROSOL SXS30 (R), MANROSOL SXS40 (R), MANROSOL SXS93 (R) by the company Manro. Mention may also be made of the alkyl sulphoacetate mixture, for example lauryl sulphoacetate, for example that sold as a mixture with sodium methyl-2-sulpholaurate and sulpholaurate-2-disodium under the reference STEPAN MILD PCL by the company. Stepan.
    As isethionates, there may be mentioned acylisethionates such as sodium cocoyl-isethionate, such as for example the product sold under the name JORDAPON Cl P (R) by the company Jordan.
    As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, especially that sold under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE (R) by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate, in particular that sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF (R) by the company Clariant or marketed under the trademark NIKKOL CMT-30-T (R) by the company a Nikkol company, sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate, in particular that sold under the name NIKKOL PMT (R) by the company Nikkol
    As sulfosuccinates, mention may be made, for example, of lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) oxyethylene (3 EO) monosulfinate, in particular those sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL (R), REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4 ( R) by Witco, the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, in particular that marketed under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by Zschimmer Schwarz, the di-sodium oxyethylene oleamidosulfosuccinate (2 EO) in particular that marketed under the name Standapol SH 135 (R) by the company Cognis, the mono-sulfosuccinate of lauric amide oxyethylene (5 EO), especially that marketed under the name LEBON A-5000 (R) by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of lauryl citrate oxyethylene (10 EO) monosulfosuccinate, in particular that marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50 (R) by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of lauryl alcohol monosulfosuccinate especially celu sold under the name REWOPOL SB F12P (R) by the company Witco, ricinoleic mono-ethanolamide mono-sulfosuccinate, especially that marketed under the name REWODERM S 1333 (R) by the company Witco.
    As phosphates and alkylphosphates, mention may be made, for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate, in particular that marketed under the name MAP 20 (R) by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of the acid dodecyl-phosphoric, a mixture of mono- and di-ester (diester majority) including that marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-31 (R) by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, including that sold under the name CRAFOL AP-20 (R) by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of phophoric acid of 2-butyloctanol ethoxyl (7 moles of EO), in particular that marketed under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO -PHOSPHATE ESTER (R) by the company Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate in particular that marketed under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40 (R) and ARLATONE MAP 230T -60 (R) by Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate, in particular that marketed under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09 (R) by Rhodia Chimie. (3) amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, such as alkylamidoalkylamine derivatives, such as N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-di-sodium (CTFA name: Disodium cocoampho-diacetate), especially that marketed in aqueous solution; salt under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC NP® by the company Rhodia Chimie; N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocampho-acetate) and the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: Cocamide DEA).
    A composition according to the invention also advantageously contains less than 0.5% by weight relative to its total weight of one or more emulsifying polymers.
    For the purposes of the invention, the term "emulsifying polymer" is intended to denote a polymer having amphiphilic properties, that is to say having at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part. Hydrophilic groups and hydrophobic groups are well known to those skilled in the art.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" denotes a compound comprising at least two repeating units, in particular at least five repeating units.
    An emulsifying polymer may in particular be a polymer derived from acrylic acid and / or at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) unit.
    If present, the emulsifying polymer (s) according to the invention may be chosen from acrylic acid derivatives, amphiphilic polymers containing at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) unit. .
    The acrylic acid derivatives comprise: - from 80 to 99 mol% of acrylic acid (AA) acidic unit of formula (5)
    following: (5) wherein X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion; and from 1 to 20% by moles, and preferably from 1 to 15% by moles of unit of formula (6) below:
    (6) wherein R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl), A denotes an ester or amide group or an oxygen atom and R * denotes a linear alkyl or branched having m carbon atoms with m ranging from 6 to 30, preferably from 10 to 25.
    As amphiphilic polymers derived from acrylic acid which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of: the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22® by Rohm and Haas, the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and laureth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 25® by Rohm and Haas, the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and beheneth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 28® by Rohm and Haas, the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acid acrylic and vinyl neodecanoate, sold under the name Aculyn 38® by Rohm and Haas, the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 88® by Rohm and Haas, crosslinked copolymers of alkyl-Cio-C30 acrylate and (meth) acrylic acid, such as Pemulen TRI® and TR2® sold by Lubrizol, the cross-linked copolymer. of acrylic acid and vinyl iso-decanoate, sold under the name Stabylen 30® by the company 3 V, crosslinked copolymers obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, sold under the name named Carbopol ETD 2020® and Carbopol 1382® by Lubrizol, the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and steareth-20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure 2001® by the company National Star CH, the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and ceteth-20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure 3001® by the company National Star ch, the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from acid (m th) acrylic, aminoacrylate and C10-C30 alkyl PEG 20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure Plus® by the company National Starch, and the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000® by the company Amerchol.
    The polymers derived from acrylic acid is in particular an uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid, methylacrylate and dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohol.
    It may especially be crosslinked copolymers of alkyl-Cio-C3o acrylate and (meth) acrylic acid, such as Pemulen TRI® and TR2® sold by the company Novéon.
    This emulsifying polymer may also be chosen from amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) unit.
    Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) unit that can be used in the present invention, also referred to more simply as "AMPS amphiphilic polymers" in the following, comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain.
    The fatty chain present in said amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may preferably comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.
    The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention are especially chosen from amphiphilic polymers of at least one acrylamido-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) monomer and at least one ethylenically unsaturated comonomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 7 to 22 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
    The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention generally have a molecular weight in weight ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 100,000 to 8,000,000 g / mol and even more particularly from 100,000 to 100,000,000 g / mol. 7,000,000 g / mol.
    They can be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.
    When the AMPS amphiphilic polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking the polymers obtained by radical-domain polymerization.
    Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether and ethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate. or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane-diallylether, (meth) allyl acrylate, the allyl ethers of alcohols of the series of sugars, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and the allyl esters of the derivatives of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
    The crosslinking agents may in particular be chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA).
    The degree of crosslinking can vary for example from 0.01 to 10 mol% and preferably from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
    The amphiphilic AMPS polymers may especially be chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine such as those described in patent application WO 00/31154. .
    An amphiphilic polymer that is suitable for the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their substituted alkyl derivatives or esters obtained with mono- or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof.
    An amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic comonomer with ethylenic unsaturation.
    An amphiphilic polymer that is suitable for the invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic part chosen from linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, such as, for example, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl, branched, for example isostearic or cyclic such as cyclododecane or adamantane.
    An amphiphilic AMPS polymer may also contain at least one hydrophobic comonomer containing ethylenic unsaturation, comprising, for example: a fluorinated or alkylfluorinated C7-C18 radical (for example the group of formula - (CH2) 2- (CF2) 9 -CF3), a cholesteryl radical or a radical derived from cholesterol (for example cholesteryl hexanoate), an aromatic polycyclic group such as naphthalene or pyrene, a silicone or alkylsilicone or alkylfluorosilicone radical.
    These copolymers are especially described in EP-A-750899, US-A-5089578 and in the following Yotaro Morishima publications: "Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336; "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10-3694-3704 "; Solution properties of micelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: known effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332; and Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40 (2), 220-221.
    They are also described in the documents EP 1 069 142, WO 02/44224, WO 02/44225, WO 02/44227, WO 02/44229, WO 02/44230, WO 02/44231, WO 02/44267, WO 02 / 44268, WO 02/44269, WO 02/44270, WO 02/44271,
    WO 02/43677, WO 02/43686, WO 02/43687, WO 02/43688, WO 02/43689, in the name of CLARIANT
    An ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer of the invention may also be chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (1) below:
    in which :
    Ra denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y is O or NH; R denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain having from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 7 to 22, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
    The hydrophobic radical R is chosen from linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic ( for example cyclododecane or adamantane); perfluorinated C 7 -C 18 alkyl radicals (for example the group of formula - (CH 2) 2- (CF 2) 9-CF 3); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester such as cholesteryl hexanoate; polycyclic aromatic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. u
    According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophobic radical R may also comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain.
    The polyoxyalkylene chain may preferably be composed of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consisting solely of ethylene oxide units.
    The number of moles of oxyalkylene units may generally vary from 1 to 30 moles and more preferably from 1 to 25 moles and even more preferably from 3 to 20 moles.
    Among these polymers, mention may be made of: cross-linked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylamide units or (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylate units with respect to the polymer, such as those described in EP-A-750 899; terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n- (C6-C18) alkylacrylamide units, relative to the polymer, such as those described in US-A-5,089,578; uncrosslinked copolymers of partially or fully neutralized AMPS and n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl or n-octadecyl methacrylate, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above; crosslinked or uncrosslinked copolymers of partially or totally neutralized AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.
    As amphiphilic AMPS polymers, mention may also be made of copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or n-octadecyl methacrylate, as well as copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide. , uncrosslinked and crosslinked. By way of representative of these amphiphilic AMPS polymers, mention will be made more particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic AMPS copolymers consisting of: (a) 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (2) below:
    (2) wherein X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion; (b) and the following formula (3):
    in which n and p, independently of one another, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 25 and more preferably from 3 to 20 with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and more preferably less than 20; Ra denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl and Rc denotes a linear or branched alkyl having from 7 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
    In formula (2), the cation X denotes more particularly sodium or ammonium.
    Among the monomers of formula (3), mention may be made of: (meth) acrylic acid esters of polyoxyethylenated C 10 -C 18 fatty alcohol such as the product GENAPOL C-080® sold by Clariant, the esters (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol with 8 EO, such as the product GENAPOL UD-080® sold by CLARIANT, the esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C12- C14 to 7 EO, such as the product GENAPOL LA-070® sold by the company CLARIANT, the esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C12-C14 to 11 EO such as the product GENAPOL LA-110® sold by the CLARIANT Company, the esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol in C16-C18 at 8 OE such as the product GENAPOL T-080® sold by CLARIANT, the esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol Cie-Cis at 15 OE such as the product GENAPOL T-150® sold by the company CL ARIA NT, the s esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 11 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-110® sold by CLARIANT, esters of (meth) acrylic acid and fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated C16-C18 at 20 EO, such as the product GENAPOL T-200® sold by Clariant, esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 at 25 EO, such as the product GENAPOL T- 250® sold by the company CLARIANT, the esters of (meth) acrylic acid and 25-C18-C22 polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol and / or 25C-25C-polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol isoalcohol.
    Of particular interest are: a) non-crosslinked ones for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, Ra denotes methyl and Rc represents a mixture of C 12 -C 14 C 6 -C 18 alkyl, b) those crosslinked for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, Ra denotes methyl and Rc represents a mixture of C16-C18 alkyl.
    These polymers are described and synthesized in application EP1069142.
    These particular amphiphilic AMPS polymers can be obtained according to the conventional methods of radical polymerization in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), razobisdimethylvaleronitrile, hydrochloride of 2,2-azobis- [2 amidinopropane] (ABAH = 2,2-Azo-Bis- [2-Amidinopropane] Hydrochloride), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, mineral peroxidized compounds such as potassium persulphate or ammonium, or H2O2 optionally in the presence of reducing agents.
    These amphiphilic AMPS polymers may in particular be obtained by radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium in which they precipitate. By using precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a particle size distribution of the polymer which is particularly favorable for its uses.
    The reaction may be conducted at a temperature between 0 and 150 ° C, preferably between 10 and 100 ° C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure.
    It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.
    These amphiphilic AMPS polymers may be partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or an organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methyl -glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They can in particular be totally or almost completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 80%.
    The molar concentration in% of the units of formula (2) and units of formula (3) in amphiphilic AMPS polymers can vary between 0.1 and 99.9 mol%.
    The distribution of the monomers in the AMPS amphiphilic polymers according to the invention can be, for example, alternating, block (including multiblock) or any. As an indication, mention may in particular be made of the copolymer of AMPS and ethoxylated C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth- Methacrylate copolymer) marketed under the name ARTISTOFLEX LNC® by the company Clariant, the copolymer of AMPS and ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25 EO) (trimethylolpropane triacrylate crosslinked copolymer, obtained from Genapol T-250 and from AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name ARISTOFLEX HMS® by the company Clariant, Aristoflex SNC (AMPS copolymer / alcohol methacrylate C 1 / Cis ethoxylates (8 moles EP 80 / CTFA name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer) and Aristoflex HMB® (AMPS copolymer / ethoxylated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO), cross-linked by trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
    Finally, according to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of emulsifying hydrocolloids such as natural gums and in particular xanthan gum, carrageenan (lambda, iota, kappa), gum sclerotium, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, pectin, acacia gum from Senegal and caesal gum pinia spinosa.
    Additional ingredients
    A composition according to the invention may also contain one or more dyestuffs, water-soluble pigments or dyes.
    The composition according to the invention may also comprise the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as antioxidants, perfumes, conditioners, preservatives. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
    Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) to be added to the compositions according to the invention, as well as their concentration, in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions according to the invention are not not, or not substantially, impaired by the intended addition. The invention also provides a process for the preparation of a composition comprising at least the steps of providing a homogeneous aqueous dispersion of at least 7.5% by dry weight of at least one C 1 -C 4 carboxyalkyl of crosslinked starch modified with respect to the total weight of the aqueous dispersion and bringing this aqueous dispersion into contact with at least one C2-C5 lower monoalcohol.
    The homogeneous aqueous formulation of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of cross-linked starch can be prepared by mechanical stirring of the unhydrated form of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of crosslinked starch in water and heating all to a temperature of 50 to 55 ° C.
    The composition according to the invention may be a care composition, in particular a skincare product such as a lotion, a skincare base, a care gel (day care, night care, anti-inflammatory skincare). wrinkles), a make-up removal base, a make-up removing or skin-cleaning composition and advantageously a cleaning or care mask.
    More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended adapted for topical administration, that is to say by surface application of the keratin material in question, such as the skin in question.
    The term "keratin materials" according to the invention is understood to mean the skin, the body, the face and / or the contour of the eyes, the lips, the nails, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hairs, the scalp and / or the hair, or any other skin area of the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, the hair, and / or the skin.
    Preferably, the keratin materials according to the invention is the skin.
    By "skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, and preferably, the skin of the face, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the skin. face, including forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, eye area.
    The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the care, cleaning and / or removing make-up of keratin materials, especially the skin.
    The subject of the present invention is furthermore a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials in which a composition as defined above is applied to the keratin material or materials.
    The cosmetic treatment process is more particularly a cosmetic treatment method for the care, cleaning and / or removal of keratin materials, and preferably the skin.
    The following examples illustrate the invention, and are given purely by way of illustration and not limitation.
    In all that follows, the percentages are given by weight unless otherwise indicated.
    Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ...", "at least .." or "at most" must be understood as inclusive, unless the contrary is specified.
    The examples and figures which follow are proposed by way of illustration and not limitation of the field of the invention.
    FIGURE
    FIG. 1 illustrates the freshness effect characterized in example 2.
    MATERIALS AND METHODS
    Stability test:
    It makes it possible to check the stability under conditions making it possible to simulate accelerated aging. It is carried out in centrifugation mode at day 1 after manufacture.
    After centrifugation, it controls the presence or absence of release phenomenon or decantation by direct observation.
    The centrifuge used is a brand Firlabo / Model SW 9 centrifuge and its specificities of use are as follows:
    Time: 60 minutes
    Temperature: TA
    Tube: Glass tube with round bottom
    Mass: 37g tube & jus included
    Viscosity measurement
    The viscosities in Pas are determined by oscillation and obtained at 25 ° C. using an imposed stress rheometer, MARSH HAAKE, equipped with a plane-cone measuring body (diameter 60 mm 1 degree and sandblasted titanium 25 ° C). For each measurement, the sample is placed gently and the gap is set at 0.052 mm.
    The viscosities in UD are characterized using a Rheometer (Rheoma RM200 LAMY) using the mobile 4. The viscosity is taken at J1, then T2M at room temperature and at 45 ° C. The measurement is thermostated at 25 ° C.
    Freshness measurement test
    It is carried out by in vitro evaluation of the potential generation of an extemporaneous fresh effect due to an endothermic reaction in solution. This effect is appreciated by measuring the temperature at different times.
    The required materials and parameters are as follows: Mixer at a stirring speed of 3 5001/3 mins
    Specific pot 60 g
    Quantity of the formulation to be characterized at 45 g
    Taking T ° at Tmn- T5mns- T10mns-T15mns-T20mns
    Thermometer: Brand Multi Model 900 AT Thermometer The freshness effect and its remanence are demonstrated by the slope calculated in percentage (%) defined by the height divided by the length between 2 points at To and T10mn (corresponding to the pause time of the mask) .
    P = = H / L x 100
    The higher the slope, the more the cool effect felt and remnant is validated, especially during the first 10 minutes (which corresponds to the exposure time of the mask).
    Sensory evaluation test and in vivo freshness
    This type of evaluation is performed on a panel of 5 Caucasian women, 20-35 years old and regular users of masks in the form of gel.
    The test aims to evaluate the qualities of use and the cosmetic properties especially the freshness during the application and the pose, the rinsability, as well as the perceived effectiveness in terms of softness and plump skin.
    The tests are performed at home on 3 formulas. Test each product for 3 days to replace the usual face mask (1 application per day over 3 days + 1 day break before starting the test on the next product).
    Lint evaluation test:
    This evaluation is carried out on a panel of 10 men practicing in the field of formulation of cosmetic galenics
    Its protocol consists of: - a single application on the forearm in the center of a rectangle of 5 cm by 3 cm of 50 pmi of product, and - to make 15 turns with 2 fingers / wait 15 s / redo 15 rounds / pause time of 2 mns / make 5 energetic rounds without wiping your fingers for the duration of the test.
    Rating for absence or presence of plush: 1 to 5 1 = Lack of plush 3 = Presence of intermediate fluff 5 = Lots of stuffed animals
    Rating for the Luffing Facility:
    Easy - Moderately Easy - Difficult EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1
    Compositions according to the invention
    Compositions 1 and 2 were prepared as follows.
    The components of the Al phase are homogenized with light stirring and scraping and the whole heated to a temperature of 50 ° C to 55 ° C. To this heated mixture are added components B premixed beforehand. The whole is kept under pale stirring and scraping until emulsion, heating and total hydration of the carboxymethylated starch.
    This level of hydration is reached, the mixture is cooled to a temperature of 22 ° C to 23 ° C with light stirring and scraping. At 22 ° C, the constituent elements of phase C are added with stirring and then citric acid (D). Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes.
    The gels thus obtained are soft, homogeneous, translucent in appearance and slightly "granite" and matt.
    Their texture is adapted to a mask application, fresh and easy to dose. On application, the composition 1 has been characterized according to the tests described above in the chapter materials and methods, as being slippery, having a good adhesion, low stickiness, easy application and providing an immediate effect of freshness. For the skin finish, it has been characterized soft and not sticky. Specifically, during application, the fingers slide on the product and thus allow a uniform application to the skin.
    The composition 2 applied to the skin was removed after a pause of 5 to 10 minutes with a thick layer application, by circular massage which allows a gentle exfoliation by fluffing before rinsing with water. The lint level was rated very linty and very easy to fluff throughout the evaluation with easy flushing. The product is easy to rinse and easy to fluff. EXAMPLE 2
    The formulas detailed in Table 1 below were prepared and their respective parameters P, representative of the associated freshness effect, were determined according to the test specified above in the Materials and Methods chapter.
    Table 1
    Figure 1 also reports on these results.
    As stated in the protocol, the higher the value P, representative of the slope, the more the perceived and residual cool effect is validated.
    It emerges that the most significant gains in fresh and remanence effect at 10 minutes (mask pause time) are observed in the presence of the gelling agent alone or at gelling agent levels of between 7.5 and 12.5% associated with the gelling agent. ethanol. These results also show the very low impact of ethanol or water on the power of this effect. EXAMPLE 3
    Influence of starch and alcohol quantity variations on the cosmetic qualities of gel-type compositions
    The compositions 3 to 5 according to the invention and the control compositions A to D were prepared according to the method described in Example 1.
    Table 2 below gives an account of the detailed composition of these compositions and their characterization.
    Table 2 The analysis of the results, reveals that sodium carboxymethyl starch must be present in an amount greater than 7.5% by dry weight of active material to access a stabilized gelled composition and having the expected characteristics in terms of sensoriality (freshness,. ..) and fluffing. EXAMPLE 4
    Composition according to the invention incorporating a hydrosol
    This composition is prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.
    The gel thus obtained is flexible, homogeneous, translucent and matte appearance.
    Its texture is suitable for a mask application, fresh and easy to dose. On application, it is characterized as being slippery, adhering well, not sticky, easy to apply and providing an immediate effect of freshness. For the skin finish, it has been characterized soft and not sticky.
    His level of fluffing was evaluated after a break time of 5 to 10 minutes with a thick, very fluffy and very easy to fluff coat application throughout the evaluation with easy flushing.
    权利要求:
    Claims (17)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    An aqueous gel composition comprising from 7.5% to 13.5% by dry weight of at least one C 1 -C 4 carboxyalkyl of crosslinked starch modified with respect to its total weight and at least one C2-C monohydric alcohol. C5.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is monophasic.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said carboxy-C1-C4 starch has a degree of substitution in carboxyalkyl unit ranging from 0.1 to 1 and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said carboxy-C1-C4 starch is a carboxymethyl starch formed of units of formula:

    wherein X, whether or not covalently bonded to the carboxylic unit, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said carboxy (C1-C4) starch is a crosslinked sodium carboxymethyl starch.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from 7.5% to 12% by dry weight and preferably from 9% to 12% by dry weight of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of crosslinked starch modified with respect to its weight. total.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least ethanol as lower monoalcohol.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from 6% to 12.5%, preferably from 8% to 10% by weight of lower monoalcohol relative to its total weight.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the modified crosslinked starch and the lower monoalcohol and preferably ethanol are used in a modified crosslinked starch / monoalcohol weight ratio at least equal to 0.9. and preferably greater than 1.2, or even greater than 1.5.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one aloe vera extract and / or a hydrosol of a plant and / or a part of a plant, chosen in particular from Rosa Damascena, Centaurea Cyanus, Anthémis Nobilis, Lavandula Angustifolia, Citrus Aurantium Amara, Melissa Officinalis, Mentha Piperrita, Lippia Citriodora, Hordeum vulgare, Rosmarinus officinalis, Cupressus sempervirens, Thymus vulgaris, Salvia officinalis, Nepeta cataria, Hamamelis virginiana, Tilia cordata, Satureja montana, and mixtures thereof.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at most 0.5% by weight of surfactant relative to its total weight and in particular devoid of surfactant.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at most 0.5% by weight of liquid or solid fatty substance relative to its total weight.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a composition for cleaning the skin and preferably a mask for cleaning the skin.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    Process for the preparation of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least the steps consisting in: providing a homogeneous aqueous dispersion of at least 7.5% by dry weight of at least one carboxyalkyl C1-C4 crosslinked starch modified relative to the total weight of the aqueous dispersion, and bring this aqueous dispersion into contact with at least one lower C2-C5 monoalcohol.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 or prepared according to claim 14 for the care, cleaning and / or removing make-up of keratin materials.
    [16" id="c-fr-0016]
    16. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, in which a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13 or prepared according to Claim 14, is applied to said keratin materials.
    [17" id="c-fr-0017]
    17. A cosmetic process for cleaning a keratinous material, especially the skin and more particularly the skin of the face, comprising at least the steps of: forming on the surface of said keratin material to be treated with a mask from a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 or prepared according to claim 14, and removing said mask by rinsing and / or fluffing.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    US20190021978A1|2019-01-24|
    WO2017108807A1|2017-06-29|
    EP3393434A1|2018-10-31|
    FR3046069B1|2018-01-19|
    CN108472222A|2018-08-31|
    US10952953B2|2021-03-23|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    FR2964035A1|2010-08-30|2012-03-02|Technature|Creating a gel forming beauty mask , useful in the plastic domain and in the field of odontology , comprises mechanically mixing a composition with water or lotion, to obtain a gelling paste after specific period|
    WO2014128679A1|2013-02-25|2014-08-28|L'oreal|Gel-type cosmetic composition|
    FR3007645A1|2013-06-27|2015-01-02|Oreal|EMULSION GEL STARCH PEMULEN|WO2019162471A1|2018-02-23|2019-08-29|L'oreal|Cosmetic use of an extract of lemon savory as an antipollution agent|
    WO2019162467A1|2018-02-23|2019-08-29|L'oreal|Cosmetic use of a lemon savory hydrolate for improving the skin's barrier function|
    WO2019162470A1|2018-02-23|2019-08-29|L'oreal|Method for treating keratin materials using lemon savoury hydrosol, and cosmetic composition containing same|
    WO2019238733A1|2018-06-13|2019-12-19|L'oreal|Use of the combination of essential oil of lemon savory and hydrolate of lemon savory, as an anti-pollution agent and cosmetic treatment process|
    FR3083107A1|2018-06-29|2020-01-03|L'oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION HAVING A FROST ASPECT|FR2966364B1|2010-10-22|2013-05-24|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALOE VERA AND AN ISETHIONIC ACID DERIVATIVE|
    CN105452300A|2013-08-08|2016-03-30|生物聚合物网络有限公司|Modified starch|
    法律状态:
    2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2017-06-30| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20170630 |
    2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1563339A|FR3046069B1|2015-12-24|2015-12-24|COMPOSITION FOR CLEANING THE SKIN|
    FR1563339|2015-12-24|FR1563339A| FR3046069B1|2015-12-24|2015-12-24|COMPOSITION FOR CLEANING THE SKIN|
    US16/065,447| US10952953B2|2015-12-24|2016-12-20|Skin cleansing composition|
    PCT/EP2016/081946| WO2017108807A1|2015-12-24|2016-12-20|Skin cleansing composition|
    EP16812965.8A| EP3393434A1|2015-12-24|2016-12-20|Skin cleansing composition|
    CN201680076065.1A| CN108472222A|2015-12-24|2016-12-20|Skin cleansing compositions|
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