COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIONS WHOSE FATTY PHASE IS IN THE FORM OF DROPS

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase dispersed in the form of drops, said drops comprising a bark formed of at least one polymer anionic and at least one cationic polymer, wherein the dispersed fatty phase comprises at least one H1 oil in which the cationic polymer is soluble.
公开号:FR3041251A1
申请号:FR1558849
申请日:2015-09-18
公开日:2017-03-24
发明作者:Cassia Michel
申请人:Capsum SAS；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION COMPOSITIONS WHOSE FATTY PHASE IS IN THE FORM OF DROPS
The subject of the present invention is compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, the fatty phase of which is in the form of drops. It also relates to the cosmetic use of said compositions, in particular for the care of keratin materials, especially the skin.
In the cosmetic field, there are many types of compositions, especially in the form of emulsions, in particular stabilized by surfactants. However, the presence of surfactants does not allow to consider all possible formulations.
Moreover, because of their potentially irritating effects, users are increasingly looking for cosmetic products devoid of such surfactants.
In addition, users of cosmetic compositions are increasingly looking for compositions that are easy to apply to the skin and that have satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in terms of texture.
Finally, the provision of emulsions obtained by simple preparation methods remains a constant objective.
There is therefore a need to date for new compositions, in particular cosmetics, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, which can be prepared by a simple process, which can in particular comprise glycerine, in particular in levels which are not attainable with conventional cosmetic emulsions, and having particularly satisfactory properties in terms of application and texture.
The object of the present invention is to provide a stable composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, which can be prepared by a simple process.
The present invention also aims to provide a composition, in particular free of surfactants, and may include glycerin, especially in levels not attainable with conventional cosmetic emulsions and this, without conferring a tacky finish on the skin.
The present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition, prepared according to a simple process, and also having satisfactory cosmetic properties, despite the absence of surfactants.
The present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition, having a light and voluble texture, and can be easily applied to a keratinous material, especially on the skin.
More particularly, the present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition having particularly satisfactory properties in terms of texture.
Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase dispersed in the form of drops, said drops comprising a bark formed of at least an anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer, wherein the dispersed fatty phase comprises at least one H1 oil in which the cationic polymer is soluble.
The present invention also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising a continuous fat phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the form of drops, said drops comprising a bark formed of at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer, wherein the continuous fat phase comprises at least one H1 oil in which the cationic polymer is soluble.
In the context of the present invention, the abovementioned compositions may be referred to indifferently as "dispersions" or "emulsions".
A drop according to the invention is composed of a heart, also called inside of the drop, surrounded by a bark, which isolates the inside of the drop from the continuous phase of the emulsion.
According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention do not comprise a surfactant. They are therefore different from the usual cosmetic compositions.
The compositions according to the invention are of particular interest as regards texture by differentiating from "conventional" emulsions stabilized by surfactants. Indeed, the emulsions according to the invention are characterized by a unique, light and voluble texture, providing a two-stage application. More particularly, the compositions according to the invention are spread easily on the skin. The first moments of application are very aqueous with a marked brittle effect. Then, the feeling evolves towards an oily veil that fades to leave a light and hydrated skin.
This texture is particularly advantageous and surprising to the skilled person in view of the absence of surfactants in these emulsions.
The novel texture of a composition according to the invention is further exacerbated when the latter uses specific continuous aqueous phase texture agents, namely those which are little or not impacted by the electrolytes and / or by variations in pH, in particular between pH 4 and 8.
According to the invention, the pH of the composition is typically between 5.5 and 7.0.
According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention is prepared by implementing a "non-microfluidic" method, namely by simple emulsification, for the preparation of a composition according to the invention, the size of the drops. the dispersed phase is less than 500 μm, or even less than 200 μm. Preferably, the size of the drops is between 0.5 μm to 50 μm, preferably between 1 μm and 20 μm.
According to this embodiment, the present invention thus makes it possible to have drops of reduced size, in particular with respect to drops obtained by a microfluidic process. This small size of drops will have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a composition according to the invention, formed of finely dispersed drops, has improved lubricity qualities.
According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention is prepared by implementing a "microfluidic" method, in particular as described below. According to this embodiment, the droplet size of the dispersed phase is greater than 500 μm, or even greater than 1000 μm. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the size of the drops is between 500 and 3000 μm, preferably between 1000 μm and 2000 μm. As such, it was not obvious that compositions comprising such drops larger than 500 μm are stable.
In the context of the present invention, the term "size" refers to the diameter, in particular the mean diameter, of the drops.
According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water type emulsion.
According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil type emulsion.
Viscosity
The viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can vary considerably, which thus makes it possible to obtain varied textures.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of from 1 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10 to 300,000 mPa.s, and better still from 1,000 mPa.s to 100,000. mPa.s as measured at 25 ° C.
The viscosity is measured at ambient temperature, for example T = 25 ° C. ± 2 ° C. and at ambient pressure, for example 1013 mbar, by the method described below.
A Brookfield type viscometer, typically a Brookfield RVDV-E digital viscometer (spring torque of 7187.0 dyne-cm), is used which is a rotational speed-controlled rotational viscometer (designated by the English term). "Spindle"). A speed is imposed on the mobile in rotation and the measurement of the torque exerted on the mobile makes it possible to determine the viscosity knowing the geometry / shape parameters of the mobile used.
For example, a mobile of size No. 04 (Brookfield reference: RV4) is used. The shear rate corresponding to the measurement of the viscosity is defined by the mobile used and the speed of rotation thereof.
The viscosity measurement is carried out for 1 minute at room temperature (T = 25 ° C. ± 2 ° C.). About 150 g of solution are placed in a beaker of 250 ml volume, having a diameter of about 7 cm so that the height of the volume occupied by the 150 g of solution is sufficient to reach the gauge marked on the mobile. . Then, the viscometer is started at a speed of 10 rpm and the value displayed on the screen is expected to be stable. This measurement gives the viscosity of the tested fluid, as mentioned in the context of the present invention.
Fatty phase
According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise a dispersed fatty phase in the form of drops.
The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil and / or at least one solid fat at ambient temperature and pressure, especially as defined below.
Oils)
According to one embodiment, the drops of the dispersed phase may comprise at least one oil. The dispersed fatty phase can therefore be designated as an oily phase.
According to this embodiment, the fatty phase (or oily phase) comprises at least one H1 oil in which the cationic polymer is soluble. Indeed, the composition according to the invention must comprise at least one oil compatible with the cationic polymer. The oil H1 therefore corresponds to a good solvent for the cationic polymer.
The compositions according to the invention may comprise a single oil H1 or a mixture of several oils H1. A composition according to the invention may therefore comprise at least one, at least two, at least three, at least four, at least five or more of H1 oil (s) as described above. after.
The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).
As oils H1 usable in the composition of the invention include for example: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane; esters and synthetic ethers, especially of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a C6-C20 fatty acid, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, C3 to C30, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2 stearate dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrahehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631); linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or alternatively octyldodecanol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; - and their mixtures.
According to one embodiment, the oil H1 is chosen from esters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents the residue of a C8 to C29 fatty acid, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, at C3 to C30. .
According to one embodiment, the oil H1 is chosen from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms.
According to one embodiment, the oil H1 is chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called , 2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®.
According to a preferred embodiment, the oil H1 is chosen from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone, isohexadecane, polydimethylsiloxane, octyldodecanol, isodecyl neopentanoate and their salts. mixtures.
Preferably, the oil H1 is isononyl isononanoate.
According to one embodiment, the oil H1 is not a vegetable oil.
According to one embodiment, the oil H1 is not represented by polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and preferably is not a silicone oil.
According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight of oil (s) H1, preferably isononyl isononanoate, relative to the total weight of said composition.
According to one embodiment, the content of oil (s) H1 in the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention is between 1% and 99.99%, preferably between 20% and 90%, and in particular between 50% and 80%, by weight relative to the total weight of said fatty phase.
According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the emulsions of the invention may further comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil of plant origin H2. The fatty phase may comprise several H2 oils.
As vegetable oils H2, there may be mentioned liquid triglycerides of C4-C10 fatty acids such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oil, corn, soybean, squash, seed pips, grape, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those available under the trade names "Miglyol 810", "Miglyol 812" and "Miglyol 818" by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, or shea butter oil.
Among the H2 oils, mention may also be made of the following compounds: C10-C18 triglycerides which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.), triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids, triglycerides of caprylic acid, capric acid, myristic acid and stearic (INCI name: Caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic Triglyceride), triethylhexanoine, hydrogenated vegetable oil, meadowfoam seed oil Limnanthes Alba (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil), olive Olea Europaea (INCI name: Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil), Macadamia nut oil (INCI name: Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil), Rosa Canina rosehip oil (INCI name: Rosa Canina Fruit Oil ), soybean oil (INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil), sunflower seed oil (INCI name: Flelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil), corn oil (INCI name: Zea Mays (Corn) Oil), hydrogenated palm oil (INCI name: Flydrogenated Palm Oil), tribehenine (INCI name: tribehenin), triisostearin (INCI name: triisostearin), apricot kernel oil (INCI name: Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil), rice bran oil (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil), argan oil (INCI name: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil), avocado oil (INCI name: Persea Gratissima Oil), evening primrose oil (INCI name: Oenothera Biennis Oil), palm oil (INCI name: Elaeis Guineensis Oil), rice germ oil (INCI name: Oryza Sativa Germ Oil), hydrogenated coconut oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coconut Oil), sweet almond oil (INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), grape seed oil (INCI name: Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil), sesame seed oil (INCI name: Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil), peanut seed oil (INCI name: Arachis Hypogaea Oil), hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), Mortierella isabellina oil (name IN CI: Mortierella Oil), Safflower Seed Oil (INCI name: Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil), Queensland Macadamia integrifolia nut oil (INCI name: Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil), tricaprylin (or triacylglycerol), l vegetable oil (INCI name: Olus Oil), palm oil extracted from the nucleus (INCI name: Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil), coconut oil (INCI name: Cocos Nucifera Oil), germ oil of wheat (INCI name: Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil), borage seed oil (INCI name: Borago Officinalis Seed Oil), shea oil (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Oil), hazelnut oil (name INCI: Corylus Avellana Seed Oil), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), hydrogenated palm kernel oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil), mango seed oil (name INCI: Mangifera Indica Seed Oil), Pomegranate Seed Oil (INCI name: Punica Granatum Seed Oil), Seed Oil chinese cabbage (INCI name: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil), passion fruit seed oil (INCI name: Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil), camellia oil, and especially camellia seed from Japan (INCI name : Camellia Japonica Seed Oil), green tea seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil), corn germ oil (INCI name: Zea Mays Germ Oil), oil of hoplostethorn (name: INCI: Hoplostethus Oil), Brazil nut oil (INCI name: Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil), musk rose seed oil (INCI name: Rosa Moschata Seed Oil), Inca Inchi seed oil (or Sacha lnchi) (INCI name: Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil), Babassu seed oil (INCI name: Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil), the seed oil of a hybrid sunflower strain (INCI name: Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil), sea buckthorn oil (INCI name: Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil), Marula seed oil (INCI name: Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil), oil e of Aleurites Moluccana seed (INCI name: Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil), raspberry seed oil (INCI name:
Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil), Camellia Kissi Seed Oil (INCI name: Camellia Kissi Seed Oil), Baobab Seed Oil (INCI name: Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil), Baobab Oil (INCI name: Adansonia Digitata Oil), Moringa Seed Oil (INCI name: Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil), Perilla Sheath Oil (INCI name: Perilla Ocymoides Seed Oil), Castor Seed Oil (INCI name: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), canola oil (INCI name: Canola Oil), blackcurrant seed oil (INCI name: Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil), tea seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil), raspberry seed oil (INCI name: Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil), Abyssinian crambe seed oil (INCI name: Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil), rosehip seed oil (name INCI: Rosa Canina Seed Oil), plantain viperine oil (INCI name: Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil), tomato seed oil (INCI name: Solanum Lycoper sicum Seed Oil), bitter almond essential oil (INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus Amara Kernel Oil), yuzu seed oil (INCI name: Citrus Junos Seed Oil), squash seed oil (name INCI: Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil), Mustela Mustelidae Mink Oil (INCI name: Mustela Oil), Desert Date Seed Oil (INCI name: Balanites Roxburghii Seed Oil), Brassica Napus Seed Oil (INCI name: Brassica Napus Seed Oil), calophyllum oil (INCI name: Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil), Arctic groundnut seed oil (INCI name: Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil), pine seed oil Japan (INCI name: Pinus Pentaphylla Seed Oil), watermelon seed oil (INCI name: Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil), walnut seed oil (INCI name: Juglans Regia Seed Oil), oil seed oil (INCI name: Nigella Sativa Seed Oil), carrot seed oil (INCI name: Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil), the seed oil of Coix Lacryma-jobi Ma-yuen (INCI name: Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yen Seed Oil), Coix Lacryma-jobi seed oil (INCI name: Coix Lachryma-Jobi Seed Oil), the lipid blend of Triticum Vuigare flour (INCI name: Triticum Vulgare Flour Lipids), trihydroxymethoxystearin (INCI name: Trihydroxymethoxystearin), triheptanoine (INCI name: Triheptanoin), cranberry seed oil (INCI name: Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil), vanilla oil (INCI name: Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil), cranberry seed oil (INCI name: Oxycoccus Palustris Seed Oil), Acai oil (INCI name: Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oi), triester of hydrogenated castor oil and isostearic acid (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate), hydrogenated cottonseed oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Cottonseed Oil), hygrogenated olive oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Olive Oil), hydrogenated peanut oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Peanut Oil), hydrogenated soybean oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Soybean Oil), oil extracted from chicken egg yolk (INCI name: Egg Yolk Oil), peach kernel core oil (INCI name: Prunus Persica Kernel Oil), glycerides of canola oil and phytosterols (INCI name: Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides), black currant seed oil (INCI name: Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil), karanja (INCI name: Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil) and roucou oil (INCI name: Roucou (Bixa orellana) Oil), olive oil extract, especially phytosqualane, muscat coriander oil, linseed oil, chia oil, fenugreek oil, hemp oil, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the H2 oil is chosen from vegetable oils rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "unsaturated fatty acid" means a fatty acid comprising at least one double bond. It is more particularly long chain fatty acids, that is to say can have more than 14 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acids may be in acid form, or in salt form, for example their calcium salt, or in the form of derivatives, especially fatty acid ester (s).
Unsaturated fatty acids containing from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular polyunsaturated fatty acids, especially acides-3 and ω-6 fatty acids, are particularly suitable for the invention.
Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the ω-6 series, mention may in particular be made of linoleic acid with 18 carbon atoms and two unsaturations (18: 2, ω-6), γ-linolenic acid with 18 carbon atoms. and three unsaturations (18: 3, ω-6), dihomogamalinolenic acid with 20 carbon atoms and 3 unsaturations (20: 3, ω-6), arachidonic acid, acid 5,8,11,14 eicosatetraenoic (20: 4, ω-6) and docosatetraenoic acid (22: 4, ω -6).
The polyunsaturated fatty acids of the ω-3 series may especially be chosen from α-linolenic acid (18: 3, ω-3), stearidonic acid (18: 4, ω-3), acid 5, 8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic or EPA (20: 5, ω-3), and 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosaheaxaenoic acid or DHA (22: 6, ω-3), docosapentanoic acid (22.5, ω-3), n-butyl-5,11,14-eicosatrienonic acid.
Oils rich in α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, and mixtures thereof are particularly suitable.
Thus, advantageously, the vegetable oils are chosen from evening primrose, borage, blackcurrant seed, hemp, walnut, soybean, sunflower, wheat germ, fenugreek, rosebush and musk rosebush oils. echium, argan, baobab, rice bran, sesame, almond, hazelnut, chia, flax, olive, avocado, safflower, coriander, rapeseed (in particular Brassica naptus ), and their mixtures.
Preferably, the H2 oil is chosen from matt and non-glossy oils. In particular, mention may be made of Moringa oil.
According to one embodiment, the content of oil (s) H2 in the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention is between 0% and 40%, preferably between 0.1% and 25%, and in particular between 1% and 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of said fatty phase.
According to one embodiment, the mass ratio between the amount of oil (s) H1 and the amount of oil (s) H2 ranges from 0.025 to 99.99, preferably from 0.8 to 90, and in particular from 2.5 to 80.
The fatty phase may also comprise at least one other oil different from the oils H1 and H2.
An oil-in-water composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.0001% to 50%, preferably from 0.1% to 40%, and better still from 1% to 25% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
Solid aras bodies
According to one embodiment, the drops of the dispersed phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one solid fat at room temperature and pressure selected from waxes, pasty fatty substances, butters, and mixtures thereof.
Wax (es)
For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. could go up to 120 ° C.
The protocol for measuring this melting point is described below.
The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; the rice wax, the wax of
Carnauba, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.
Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-tetrastearate ( trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetra-enehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.
It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.
It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point.
Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC ).
The silicone waxes that can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20-C60) alkyldimethicones, in particular especially (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.
It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example, siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax by Koster Keunen.
The waxes may also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.
Butter (s) or pasty fat
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fatty substance") is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 25 ° C. a liquid fraction and a fraction. solid, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 25 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25 ° C. may represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25 ° C is preferably between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. Preferably, the one or more butters have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C. Preferably, the one or more butters have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.
Preferably, the butters or pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations.
For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments .
Concerning the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance (or butter) or wax previously heated at 80 ° C. and taken with magnetic stirring using an equally heated spatula is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. The cooling is ensured by the RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol, first being brought to a temperature of 20 ° C and then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C to 80 ° C. ° C, at the heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -80 ° C at 80 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the butter sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melted.
The liquid fraction by weight of the butter (or pasty fatty substance) at 25 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter. The enthalpy of melting of the butter or pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
The butter is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The butter is said to be in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form. The melting enthalpy of the butter is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a rise in temperature of 5 ° C. or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3: 1999. The melting enthalpy of the butter is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 25 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 25 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C is 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the butter, measured at 32 ° C., is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the entha (melting die of the butter.) The heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated from the same the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.
With regard to the measurement of the hardness, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: the composition according to the invention or the butter is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal past and control the crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80 ° C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0 ° C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature rise from 0 ° C to 20 ° C, at a rate of heat of 5C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes. The compression force measurement is performed with Swantech TA / TX2I texturometer. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - mobile cylindrical steel 2 mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - Cylindrical 12 mm diameter steel for rigid raw materials. The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrates into the composition according to the invention or the butter to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a third so-called withdrawal step where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and the energy of withdrawal of the probe (negative force) is recorded.
The value of the hardness measured in the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm 2 in contact with the butter or the composition according to the invention. The value of hardness obtained is expressed in mega-pascals or MPa.
The pasty fatty substance or butter may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.
The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines, the compounds polymeric or non-polymeric silicone polymers such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular - homopolymers of olefins, - copolymers of olefins, - homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, - linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a grouping C8-C30 alkyl, homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having al groups; C8-C30 kyles; homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols; esters and polyesters, and - their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particular butter or butters are of plant origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 15/06/2000, D01 : 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2 Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters).
There may be mentioned more particularly triglycerides C 10 -C 18 (INCI name: C10-18 Triglycerides) having at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, shea butter, butter Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or Tengkawang tallow) (.Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), Coffee butter (Coffea arabica), Apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (blend of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil) (INCI name: Jojoba esters) and ethyl esters of shea butter (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters), and mixtures thereof.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible solid fatty substances and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention, and in particular of the bark (or membrane) of the dispersed drops, are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 98.99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 70% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, and better still from 1% to 30% by weight. % to 20% by weight, of solid fatty substance (s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
According to one embodiment, the fatty phase has a viscosity of from 0.1 mPa.s to 1,000,000 mPa.s, preferably from 0.5 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s, and better still from 1 to 1,000. mPa.s as measured at 25 ° C. The measurement of the viscosity is typically carried out according to the procedure detailed above for the measurement of the viscosity of the composition.
Bark of drops
As mentioned above, the drops according to the invention are surrounded by a bark (also referred to as "membrane").
According to the invention, the drops obtained may have a very thin bark, in particular of thickness less than 1% of the diameter of the drops. The thickness of the bark is thus preferably less than 1 μm and is too small to be measured by optical methods.
According to one embodiment, the thickness of the bark of the drops is less than 1000 nm, especially between 1 and 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, advantageously less than 50 nm, and preferably less than 10 nm.
The measurement of the thickness of the bark of the drops of the invention can be carried out by the small angle neutron scattering (X-ray Scattering) method, as implemented in Sato et al. J. Chem. Phys. 111, 1393-1401 (2007).
For this, the drops are produced using deuterated water and are then washed three times with a deuterated oil, such as, for example, a deuterated hydrocarbon-type oil (octane, dodecane, hexadecane).
After washing, the drops are then transferred to the Neutrons cell to determine the l (q) spectrum; q being the wave vector. From this spectrum, classical analytical treatments (REF) are applied to determine the thickness of the hydrogenated (undeuterated) bark.
According to one embodiment, the bark surrounding the drops of the dispersed phase is stiffened, which in particular gives good resistance to drops and reduces or even prevents their coalescence.
This bark is typically formed by coacervation, i.e. precipitation of charged polymers of opposite charges. Within a coacervate, the bonds binding the charged polymers to each other are of ionic type, and are generally stronger than bonds present within a surfactant-type membrane. The bark is formed by coacervation of at least two charged polymers of opposite polarity (or polyelectrolyte) and preferably in the presence of a first polymer, of cationic type, and a second polymer, different from the first polymer, of the type anionic. These two polymers act as stiffening agents for the membrane.
The formation of the coacervate between these two polymers is generally caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, reagent concentration, etc.). The coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two charged polymers of opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure by electrostatic interactions between the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer. The membrane thus formed around each drop typically forms a bark which completely encapsulates the heart of the drop and thus isolates the heart of the drop from the continuous aqueous phase.
Anionic polymer
The continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one anionic polymer.
In the context of the present description, the term "anionic polymer" (or "anionic type polymer") a polymer having chemical functions of anionic type. We can also speak of anionic polyelectrolyte.
By "anionic chemical function" is meant a chemical function AH capable of yielding a proton to give a function A. Depending on the conditions of the medium in which it is located, the anionic polymer therefore has chemical functions in AH form. , or in the form of its conjugate base A.
As an example of chemical functions of the anionic type, mention may be made of the carboxylic acid functions -COOH, optionally present in the form of a carboxylate anion -COO-.
As an example of anionic type polymer, there may be mentioned any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least a part of which carries anionic type chemical functions, such as carboxylic acid functions. Such monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid function. It may for example be anionic polymer comprising monomeric units comprising at least one chemical function of carboxylic acid type.
Preferably, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water.
Examples of anionic polymer suitable for carrying out the invention include copolymers of acrylic acid or maleic acid and other monomers, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, C5-C8 alkyl acrylates, C10-C30 alkyl acrylates, C12-C22 alkyl methacrylates, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, hydroxyester acrylates, crosspolymer acrylates, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the anionic polymer according to the invention is a crosslinked carbomer or copolymer acrylates / Cio-30 alkyl acrylate. Preferably, the anionic polymer according to the invention is a carbomer.
According to one embodiment, the bark of the drops comprises at least one anionic polymer, such as for example a carbomer.
In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "carbomer" means an optionally crosslinked homopolymer resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore a poly (acrylic acid) optionally crosslinked.
Among the carbomers of the invention, mention may be made of those sold under the names Tego®Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol or Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.
According to one embodiment, the term "carbomer" or "carbomer" or "Carbopol®" means a high molecular weight acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with allyl sucrose or pentaerythritol allyl ethers (handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5th Edition , plll). Examples include Carbopol®10, Carbopol®934, Carbopol®934P, Carbopol®940, Carbopol®941, Carbopol®71G, Carbopol®980, Carbopol®971P or Carbopol® 974P. According to one embodiment, the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w / w.
The carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.
According to the invention, the above-mentioned composition may comprise from 0.01% to 5%, preferably from 0.05% to 2%, and preferably from 0.1% to 0.5%, by weight of polymer (s). anionic (s), especially carbomer (s), relative to the total weight of said composition.
According to the invention, the anionic polymer may also be a crosslinked copolymer acrylates / C10-3o alkyl acrylate (INCI name: acrylates / C10-3o alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) as defined above.
According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a carbomer and a crosslinked acrylates / C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate copolymer.
Cationic polymer
The dispersed fatty phase comprises at least one cationic polymer.
According to one embodiment, the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, further comprise a cationic type polymer. They may also include several cationic polymers. This cationic polymer is the one mentioned above which forms the bark by coacervation with the anionic polymer.
In the context of the present application, and unless otherwise stated, the term "cationic polymer" (or "cationic type polymer") a polymer having chemical functions of cationic type. We can also speak of cationic polyelectrolyte.
Preferably, the cationic polymer is lipophilic or fat-soluble.
In the context of the present application, and unless otherwise stated, "chemical function of cationic type" means a chemical function B capable of capturing a proton to give a function BH +. Depending on the conditions of the medium in which it is located, the cationic type polymer therefore has chemical functions in B form, or in BH + form, its conjugated acid.
As an example of chemical functions of cationic type, mention may be made of the primary, secondary and tertiary amine functions, optionally present in the form of ammonium cations.
As an example of a cationic polymer, mention may be made of any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers of which at least a part carries chemical functions of cationic type, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.
Such monomers are, for example, raziridine, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
Among the examples of cationic polymers suitable for the implementation of the invention, there may be mentioned amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified with primary amine and secondary amine functions.
Mention may also be made of amodimethicone derivatives, for example copolymers of amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers containing amine functions.
Mention may be made of PEG-14 / amodimethicone bis-isobutyl copolymer, Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone and bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone.
Mention may also be made of polysaccharide polymers comprising amine functions, such as chitosan or guar gum derivatives (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride).
Mention may also be made of polypeptide-type polymers comprising amine functions, such as polylysine.
Mention may also be made of polyethyleneimine polymers comprising amine functions, such as linear or branched polyethyleneimine.
According to one embodiment, the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, comprise a cationic polymer which is a silicone polymer modified with a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, such as amodimethicone.
According to one embodiment, the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, comprise amodimethicone.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer has the following formula:
in which: R 1, R 2 and R 3, independently of each other, represent OH or CH 3; - R4 represents a group -CH2- or a group -X-NH- in which X is a divalent alkylene radical C3 or C4; x is an integer between 10 and 5000, preferably between 30 and 1000, and more preferably between 80 and 300; y is an integer between 2 and 1000, preferably between 4 and 100, and more preferably between 5 and 20; and - z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and better is equal to 1.
In the aforementioned formula, when R4 is -X-NH-, X is attached to the silicon atom.
In the aforementioned formula, R 15 R 2 and R 3 are preferably CH 3.
In the aforementioned formula, R4 is preferably - (CH2) 3 -NH-,
According to the invention, each drop may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, by weight of cationic polymer (s), in particular amodimethicone (s), by ratio to the total weight of the fat phase.
Aqueous phase
In addition to the anionic polymer as defined above, the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises water.
In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.
According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water of the aqueous continuous phase of a composition according to the invention is at least 40%, and better still at least 50%, especially between 70% and 98%, preferably between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of said continuous phase.
The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, in particular at least 40%, and better still at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least 75% by weight of aqueous phase.
The continuous aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one base. It may comprise a single base or a mixture of several different bases. The presence of at least one base in said aqueous continuous phase contributes in particular to enhance the viscosity of the latter.
According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is a mineral base.
According to one embodiment, the mineral base is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
Preferably, the mineral base is an alkali metal hydroxide, and especially NaOH.
According to one embodiment, the base present in the continuous aqueous phase is an organic base. Among the organic bases, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, pyridine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, or else triethylamine.
A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.02% to 1% by weight of base, preferably from mineral base, and especially NaOH, relative to the total weight of said composition.
Texture agent (s)
Depending on the fluidity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, it is possible to incorporate into the composition according to the invention one or more agent (s) of texture different from the cationic and anionic polymers described above.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible texture agent (s) and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially altered by the addition envisaged. . Also, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and / or the amount of texture agent (s) according to the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase of the emulsion according to the invention.
Thus, in a composition according to the invention, the aqueous phase may comprise at least one texturizing agent and / or the fatty phase may comprise at least one texturizing agent, different from the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer.
As hydrophilic texture agents, that is to say those which are soluble or dispersible in water, and therefore may be present in the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: the natural texture agents, especially selected from algae extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, exudates of microorganisms, and other natural agents, - semi-synthetic texturing agents, especially chosen from cellulose derivatives and modified starches synthetic texturing agents, chosen in particular from (meth) acrylic acid homopolymers or one of their esters, (meth) acrylic acid copolymers or one of their esters, AMPS (2-acrylamido) copolymers Acidic 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), associative polymers, the other texturing agents, especially chosen from polyethylene glycols (sold under the name Carbowax), clays, silicas such as those sold under the names Aerosil® 90/130/150/200/300/380), glycerin, and - mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion; the associative polymers according to the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric; they are in particular those described in FR 2 999 921. Preferably, these are amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers and amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers as described below.
Among the natural texturing agents, mention may be made more particularly of algae extracts represented by agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates, and mixtures thereof.
Among the natural texturing agents, mention may be made more particularly of the exudates of plants represented by gum tragacanth, gum Karaya, gatty gum, gum arabic, and mixtures thereof.
Among the natural texturing agents, there may be mentioned more particularly the seed extracts represented by locust bean gum, guar gum, tara gum, konjac gum, pectins, and mixtures thereof.
Among the natural texturing agents, there may be mentioned more particularly exudates of microorganisms represented by xanthan gum, gellan gum, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
Among the natural texturing agents, mention may also be made of other natural agents represented in particular by gelatin, collagen, keratin, plant proteins, in particular wheat and / or soy, chitin or anionic chitosan polymers, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric, hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, especially sodium hyaluronate such as that sold under the names HA Oligo, SC Hyaluronic Acid or HyaCare, and mixtures thereof.
Among the semi-synthetic texture agents, the cellulose derivatives are in particular represented by carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) such as that marketed under the names Aqualon Serial or Walocel Serial; hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) such as that sold under the name Klucel HPC; hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) such as that marketed under the names Cellosize Seriales or Natrosol 250 Serial; hydroxyethyl methylcellulose such as that sold under the name Walocel Serial; hydroxypropyl methylcellulose such as that marketed under the names Methocel E / F / J / K series of Dow Chemicals, VIVAPHARM CS 152 HV, Benecel E4M, E10M, K100M; methylcellulose such as that sold under the name Methocel A series; ethylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Ethocel series; microcrystalline cellulose such as that marketed under the name Avicel PH serices; alkylhydroxyethylcellulose such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name Polysurf 67), and mixtures thereof.
Among the semi-synthetic texture agents, the modified starches are derivatives of starch resulting from the modification of the native starch by etherification, esterification or crosslinking, such as in particular sodium carboxymethyl starch such as that marketed under the names COVAGEL, VIVASTAR® CS 352 SV or VIVASTAR CS 302 SV; hydroxypropyl starch such as that sold under the names Zeina B860, Amaze NI, Amycol SQ, Penon PKW; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate such as that marketed under the names Structure ZEA / style / XL; and their mixtures.
Of the synthetic texturing agents, homopolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or an ester thereof are in particular represented by sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the names Cosmedia SP, Covacryl MV60 / MV40, Cosmedia SPL or Luvigel EM; crosslinked (or carbomeric) (meth) acrylic acid polymers, different from the carbomers defined as the above anionic polymer, such as those sold under the trade names Carbopol 900 series, Carbopol 2984/5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10/30, in particular Carbopole Ultrez 21, Tego Carbomer 134/140/141, Aqupec HV-505, HV-505HC, HV-504, HV-501, HV-505E, HV-504E, HV-501E, HV-505ED, Ashland 941 carbomer, or Ashland 981 carbomer; and their mixtures.
Of the synthetic texturing agents, the copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or one of their esters are especially represented by glyceryl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer such as that marketed under the names Lubrajel Serial, Serial Lubrasil or Norgel ; acrylate copolymers such as those sold under the names Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS Polymer (INCI name = Acrylates copolymer); crosspolymer-2 sodium acrylates such as that marketed under the name Aquakeep 10 SH NF; acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers such as those sold under the names Carbopol 1342/1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Pemulen TR-1 / TR-2, Carbopol Ultrez 20/21, Tego Carbomer 341 ER, Tego Carbomer 750 HD, Tego Carbomer 841 SER, Aqupec HV-501 ER, HV-701EDR, HV-501 EM, SER W-150C or SER W-300C; sodium acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer such as that sold under the name Novemer EC-2; acrylates / acrylamide copolymers such as that sold under the name Novemer EC-1 by Lubrizol; acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymers such as that sold under the name Aquagel 55; Acrylic Acid / VP crosspolymers such as the one marketed under the name Ultrathix P-100; and their mixtures.
Among the synthetic texturing agents, the AMPS copolymers are in particular represented by AMPS NH 4 / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer); the AMPS NH 4 / Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, such as that sold under the name Aristoflex HMB (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate
Crosspolymer); AMPS Na / Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Aristoflex AVS (INCI: Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer); AMPS NH4 / 2-Carboxyethylacrylate copolymers, such as that sold under the name Aristoflex TAC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / carboxyethyl crosspolymer); the AMPS Na / Acrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylate / Dimethylacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Simulgel SMS88 (INCI: Sodium
Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer &
Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60); AMPS Na / Sodium Acrylate copolymers such as those sold under the names Simulgel EG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80) or Simulgel EPG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisobutene) & Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside); AMPS Na / Acrylamide copolymers such as those sold under the names Simulgel 600 (INCI: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / lsohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) or Sepigel 305 (INCI: Polyacrylamide / C13-C14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7); AMPS Na / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers such as those sold under the names Simulgel NS (INCI: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer & squalane & polysorbate-60), Simulgel INS 100 (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60), Simulgel FL (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60), Sepinov WEO or Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer); acryloyl Dimethyltaurate / Sodium Acrylate / Dimethylacrylamide crosspolymers such as that marketed under the name Sepinov P88 (INCI: Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyltaurate /
Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer); and their mixtures.
Among the synthetic texturing agents, mention may also be made of PVP such as that sold under the name FlexiThix polymer.
Among the synthetic texturing agents, the amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers are especially represented by the acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer such as the one sold under the name Aculyn 22; acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 28; C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer such as the product sold under the name Performa V 1608; Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 88; Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as that sold under the name Sepimax Zen; Acrylates / C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymers such as those mentioned above; and their mixtures.
Among the synthetic texturing agents, the amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers are especially represented by the PEG-150 distearate, such as that sold under the name Emanon 3299V; PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer such as that marketed under the name Aculyn 44; PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 46; acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer such as that marketed under the name Structure 3001 by AkzoNobel Personal Care; polyurethane polyethers such as those sold under the names Rheolate FX 1100, Rheolate 205, Rheolate 208/204/212, Elfacos T1212, Acrysol RM 184 / RM 2020, Adeka Nol GT-700 / GT-730; polyurethane-39 such as that sold under the name Luvigel Star; cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose such as those sold under the names Natrosol ™ Plus or PolySurf ™ 67; and their mixtures.
As agents for texture of the aqueous phase, mention may also be made of clays, in particular represented by bentonite such as that sold under the names Veegum, Veegum HS or Vanatural; montmorillonite, hectorite such as that sold under the names Bentone Serial or Hectone Serial; kaolinite, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the texturing agents of the aqueous phase are chosen from those which are resistant to electrolytes, and are especially chosen from carrageenans; xanthan gum; carboxymethylcellulose; hydroxyethylcellulose; hydroxypropylcellulose; hydroxypropyl methylcellulose; methylcellulose; ethylcellulose; alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate; the carbomers represented by those sold under the names Carbopol Ultrez 10/30, Tego Carbomer 134/140/141, Aqupec HV-505, HV-505HC, HV-504, HV-501, HV-505E, HV-504E, HV-504, 501E, HV-505ED, Ashland 941 carbomer, or Ashland 981 carbomer; acrylate copolymers, especially those sold under the names Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer or Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS Polymer; acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers sold under the names Carbopol Ultrez 20/21, Tego Carbomer 341 ER, Tego Carbomer 750 HD, Tego Carbomer 841 SER, Aqupec HV-501 ER, HV-701EDR, HV-501 EM, SER W-150C or SER W-300C; sodium acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer; acrylates / acrylamide copolymers; the AMPS Na / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers sold under the names Sepinov WEO or Sepinov EMT 10; acryloyl Dimethyltaurate / Sodium Acrylate / Dimethylacrylamide crosspolymers; PVP; acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer; Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6; acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer; polyurethane polyethers sold under the names Adeka Nol GT-700 / GT-730; polyurethane-39; cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose; polyethylene glycols; bentonite; glycerine; and their mixtures.
Preferably, the texturing agents of the aqueous phase are chosen from those which can be used over a wide pH range, in particular between 4 and 8, and are chosen in particular from gum tragacanth; gum arabic; methylcellulose; ethylcellulose; carbomers marketed under the names Carbopol Ultrez 10/30; copolymer acrylates, especially that marketed under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 polymer and Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS polymer; the acrylates / C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers sold under the names Pemulen TR-1 / TR-2; sodium acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer; acrylates / acrylamide copolymers; NH 4 AMPS / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers; AMPS NH 4 / Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers; AMPS NH4 / 2-carboxymethylacrylate copolymers; AMPS Na / Acrylic acid / Sodium copolymers
Acrylate / dimethyl acrylamide; AMPS Na / Sodium Acrylate copolymers; AMPS Na / Acrylamide copolymers; AMPS Na / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers; acryloyl Dimethyltaurate / Sodium Acrylate / Dimethylacrylamide crosspolymers; polyacrylate crosspolymer-6; polyurethane-39; cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose; glycerine; and their mixtures.
Even more preferably, the texturizing agents of the aqueous phase are chosen from those which are resistant to electrolytes and usable over a wide pH range, and are especially chosen from methylcellulose; ethylcellulose; the AMPS Na / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers sold under the names Sepinov WEP or Sepinov EMT 10; acryloyl Dimethyltaurate / Sodium Acrylate / Dimethylacrylamide crosspolymers; polyacrylate crosspolymer-6; polyurethane-39; cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose; glycerine; the carbomers figured by those marketed under the names
Carbopol Ultrez 10/30, acrylate copolymers, especially those sold under the names Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer or Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS Polymer; sodium acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer; acrylates / acrylamide copolymers; and mixtures thereof, and more preferably are selected from acrylate copolymers, in particular that sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer.
These texture agents, in addition to their property (s) of resistance to electrolytes and / or stability over a wide pH range, give a composition according to the invention comprising them improved stability and transparency.
The texturing agents that may be used according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic texturing agents.
As mineral lipophilic texturing agent, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example that marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS.
It is also possible to mention the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface with a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by CABOT; or dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT.
The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
The polymeric organic lipophilic texturing agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C. ® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by the company GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomanans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular Ci C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO company under the name Versagel® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).
As lipophilic texturing agent, mention may also be made of polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in applications WO 02/056847, WO 02/47619, in particular the resins of polyamides (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US 5783657. By way of example of a polyamide resin that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of Uniclear 100. VG® marketed by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL.
Among the lipophilic texture agents that can be used in the emulsions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company CHIBA FLOUR.
It is also possible to use polyorganosiloxane type silicone polyamides such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,874,069, US Pat. No. 5,919,441, US Pat. No. 6,051,216 and US Pat. No. 5,981,680.
These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establish hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 30% by weight of texture agent (s). relative to the total weight of said composition.
In the case where the texturing agent is a polymer, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and preferably from 1% to at 3% by weight of texturizing agent (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise glycerine. Preferably, they comprise at least 5% by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
Indeed, beyond the texture, the compositions according to the invention provide another advantage over "conventional" emulsions because they allow the use of glycerin, moreover in high levels.
They may in particular comprise glycerin in a content greater than or equal to 10%, greater than or equal to 20%, greater than or equal to 30%, greater than or equal to 40%, or even up to 50%, by weight, by relative to the total weight of said composition.
Additional compound (s)
A composition according to the invention may further comprise powders, flakes, coloring agents, especially chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble, liposoluble or non-organic or inorganic dyes, optical-effect materials, liquid crystals, and the like. mixtures, preservatives, humectants, stabilizers, chelators, emollients, etc., or any usual cosmetic additive, and mixtures thereof.
A composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one active agent, preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV-screening agents, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of macromolecular dermal and / or epidermal, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, perfumes and mixtures thereof.
The compositions may further comprise at least one compound rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids other than an H2 oil as described above and in particular chosen from an extract of microalgae (for example spirulina (Spirulina maxima and Spirulina platensis)), an extract zooplankton, a fish oil; and their mixtures.
Anti-wrinkle or anti-aging agents As a representative of anti-wrinkle or anti-aging agents that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of adenosine, retinol and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives, as described in particular below; plant extracts and in particular extracts of sea fennel and olive leaf, as well as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates, such as hydrolysates of rice or soy proteins; or Vigna aconitifolia seed extracts such as those marketed by Cognis under the references Vitoptine LS9529 and Vit-A-Like LS9737; algae extracts and in particular laminaria; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea, in particular Wild Yam, containing it; α-hydroxy acids; β-hydroxyacids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acylated derivatives, in particular {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid and lipopeptides marketed by SEDERMA under the trade names Biopeptide CL, Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene; manganese and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates; rye seed extract under the trade name Coheliss de Silab; an extract of leaves of centella asiatica; oily or aqueous extracts of vanilla planifolia fruit, vanilla planifolia flower extract; and their mixtures.
Humectants or moisturizers
As humectants or moisturizers, there may be mentioned glycerine; diglycerin; glycols, such as sorbitol; betaines; urea and its derivatives including Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch; monosaccharides such as mannose, AHA, BHA, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; polyoxybutylene, polyoxyethylene, or polyoxypropylene glycerol such as WILBRIDE S-753L® from NOF corporation; muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulphate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; niacinamide; Sederma glyceryl polymethacrylate sold under the trade name Lubragel®MS; trimethylglycine sold under the trade name Aminocoat® by the company Ashahi Kasei Chemicals; mother-of-pearl extracts containing a conchyoline sold in particular by the company Maruzen (Japan) under the trade name Pearl Extract®; plant extracts such as an extract of Castanea sativa or aqueous or oily extracts of Camellia japonica flower and in particular of the variety alba plena; hydrolysed hazelnut proteins; polysaccharides of Polyanthes tuberosa; Argania core oil spin osa; homo- and co-polymers of 2-methacryloyloxyethylphosphorylcholine acid, such as Lipidure HM and Lipidure PBM of NOF; saccharides such as glucose, fructose, mannose or trehalose; glycosaminoglycans and their derivatives such as hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate and acetylated hyaluronic acid, in particular spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by the company Engelhard Lyon; panthenol; allantoin; the aloe vera ; free amino acids and their derivatives; glucosamine; citric acid; ceramides; and their mixtures.
UV filters
As humectants or moisturizers, there may be mentioned in particular organic UV filters, inorganic UV filters, and mixtures thereof. As an illustration of the organic UV filters and without limitation, mention may be made of: anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 ( Oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40® available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300); ® available from Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP® available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PARSOL HS® available from DSM); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M® available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, Kaempferia galangal root extract (TEGO GALANGA from EVONIK containing 98% ethyl -p-methoxycinnamate) and preferentially octylmethoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX® available from Hoffmann La Roche), diphenylacrylates, in particular ethocrylene (Uvinul N35® available from BASF), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539® available from BASF) or Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (SOLASTAY available from HALLSTAR) - dibenzoylmethanes, in particular butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789®); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, or ethyl PABA (benzocaine), triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S® available from Ciba) or diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB® available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (UvinulT150® available from BASF), Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb 2AB available from BASF), benzoates, in particular N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate (Uvinul A + available from BASF) or in mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate (Uvinul A + B available from BASF), - benzalmalonates, in particular Polysilicone-15 ( Parsol SLX available from DSM), benzoxazoles in particular 2,4-bis [4- [5- (1,1-dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl] phenylimino] -6 - [(2-ethylhexyl) imino] - 1,3,5-triazine, (Uvasorb K2A available from Sigma 3V), - salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, butyloctyl salicylate (FIALLBRITE BFIB available from HALLSTAR or TEA salicylate;
The preferred organic screening agents are selected from Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Parsol FIS), Octocrylene (Parsol 340), Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX), Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M), Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S), Tris Biphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb 2AB), Ethylhexyl Triazone (UVINUL T150), Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone (UVASORB FIEB), Diethylamino Flydroxybenzoyl Flexyl Benzoate (UVINUL A PLUS), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (PARSOL 1789), Polysilicone-15 (PARSOL SLX), Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS 40), Benzophenone-3, Ethylhexyl Salicylate (EFIS Parsol), Flomosalate, and mixtures thereof.
The inorganic UV filters used are metal oxide particles having an average elemental particle size of less than or equal to 100 nm.
They may especially be chosen from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium and cerium oxides, and mixtures thereof.
The titanium oxides may be in crystalline form of rutile and / or anatase type, and / or in amorphous or substantially amorphous form
Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated are in particular described in the patent application EP-A-0518 773. As commercial pigments can be mentioned the products sold Kemira, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
The coated titanium oxide pigments are coated with: - silica (IKEDA SUNVEIL), - silica and iron oxide (IKEDA SUNVEIL F), - silica and polyglyceryl-10 stearate (COSMESERVE WP -40W of IWASE COSFA) - silica and alumina (MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT500 SA and MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA from TAYCA, TIOXIDE TIOVEIL), - alumina (TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B) and TIPAQUE TTO-55 ( A) ISHIHARA, and UVT 14/4 from KEMIRA), rutile TiO 2 treated with alumina and silica coated with glycerol (UV TITAN M212 KEMIRA), rutile TiO 2 treated with alumina and dimethicone (UV TITAN M195 from KEMIRA), - alumina and aluminum stearate (MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T, MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 from TAYCA, Solaveil CT-10 W and Solaveil CT 100 from UNIQEMA and Eusolex T-AVO from MERCK), - silica, alumina and alginic acid (MT-100 AQ from TAYCA), - alumina and aluminum laurate (MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100% of TAYCA), alumina, meticone and polyhydroxystearic acid (KOBO INP60T7), iron oxide and iron stearate (MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F from TAYCA), zinc oxide and zinc stearate (TAYCA BR 351), silica and alumina and treated with silicone (MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS, DIOXIDE MICROTITANIUM MT 500 SAS or MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS TAYCA), silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with silicone (STT-30-DS of TITAN KOGYO), of alumina and treated with a silicone (TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S) of ISHIHARA, or UV TITAN M 262 of KEMIRA), of triethanolamine (STT-65-S of TITAN KOGYO), - stearic acid (TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C) from ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate (MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W from TAYCA). the TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane (T 805 by the company Degussa Silices), the TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane (70250 Carder UF T02S13 by CARDRE), the anatase / rutile TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane (MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE) USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC by COLOR TECHNIQUES), - rutile TiO 2 treated with alumina, stearic acid (UV TITAN M160 by KEMIRA), - TiO 2 treated with alumina hydroxide, stearic acid and triethoxycaprylylsilane (ALT- T-400 by MAPRECOS), or - manganese doped TiO2 (Croda OPT1-PW).
Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example: MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B or MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B by the company TAYCA, P 25 by the company DEGUSSA, transparent titanium oxide PW by the company WACKHER, UFTR by MIYOSHI KASEI, - ITS by TOMEN, - TIOVEIL AQ by TIOXIDE, and - their blends.
The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: Z-rated by the company Sunsmart; Nanox by Elementis; Nanogard WCD 2025 by Nanophase Technologies, and their mixtures.
The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: zinc oxide CS-5 by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohols benzoate); DAITOPERSION ZN-30 and DAITOPERSION Zn-50 by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and the polymethylhydrogensiloxane); NFD Ultrafine ZnO by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); SPD-Z1 by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); - Escalol Z100 by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone); Fuji ZnO-SMS-10 by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); Nanox Gel TN by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with polycondensate of hydroxystearic acid); OTS-5 MZ-500 by the company DAITO (ZnO dispersed in triethoxycaprylylsilane); and - their mixtures.
Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE by the company RHONE POULENC.
According to the invention, the titanium oxide or zinc oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.
Desquamating agents
As desquamating agents, mention may be made of beta-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives other than n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), and mixtures thereof.
Antioxidants
As antioxidants, there may be mentioned more specifically tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; EDTA, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, and mixtures thereof.
Dermodecontracting agents or dermorelaxants
As dermodecontracting or dermorelaxing agents, mention may be made especially of manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel, glycine and alverine.
Actives stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation
As active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the trade name Phytokine® malt extract as marketed under the name Collalift® by BASF BCS; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, or an extract of rice peptides such as Colhibin® from Pentapharm DSM, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® marketed by Exsymol; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in FR-A-2 814 950; the lupine extract marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine®, and mixtures thereof, verbena hydrosol.
Soothing agents
As a soothing agent, there may be mentioned dipotassium glycyrrhizate or Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester under the name Calmosensine SEDERMA.
Depigmenting agents
As depigmenting agents, there may be mentioned ceramides, vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vit CG, CP and 3-0 ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, in particular 4-butyl resorcinol, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, phenylethyl resorcinol such as Symwhite 377® from the company Symrise, a kiwi fruit water (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®, a licorice extract (glycyrrhiza glabra) a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum), such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, a mixture of undecylenic acid and phenylalanine undec ylenoyl, such as Sepiwhite's Sepiwhite MSH®.
It may also be mentioned vitamins B3, B5, B6, B8, C, E, or PP, niacin, carotenoids, polyphenols and minerals such as zinc, calcium, magnesium ....
In particular, it is possible to use an antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, in particular a carotenoid chosen from β-carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein, flavonoids such as as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidins and anthocyanins.
It can also be at least one prebiotic or a mixture of prebiotics. More particularly, these prebiotics can be chosen from oligosaccharides, produced from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, acacia-type gums, for example, or of their mixtures. More particularly, the oligosaccharide comprises at least one fructooligosaccharide. More particularly, this prebiotic may comprise a mixture of fructo-oligosaccharide and inulin.
Hydrophilic active agents that may be mentioned include proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, and especially C 2 -C 10 polyols such as glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycol, urea, allantoin, sugars and the like. sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, starch, bacterial or plant extracts such as those of Aloe Vera.
As lipophilic active agents, it is possible to use retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, ceramides, essential oils and unsaponifiables (tocotrienol, sesamin, gamma oryzanol, phytosterols, squalenes, waxes, terpenes).
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compound (s) and / or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially altered by the addition envisaged. Furthermore, the nature and / or the amount of any additional compound (s) depends (s) on the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase of the composition according to the invention. These adjustments are within the skill of the skilled person.
Preparation process
The compositions according to the invention can be prepared by various methods.
Thus, the compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to be prepared according to a simple "non-microfluidic" method, namely by simple emulsification.
As in a conventional emulsion, an aqueous solution and a fat solution (or oily) are prepared separately. It is the stirring addition of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase which creates the direct emulsion.
The viscosity of the aqueous phase can be controlled, in particular by varying the amount of anionic polymer (especially carbomer) and the pH of the solution. In general, the pH of the aqueous phase is less than 4.5, which may involve the addition of a third sodium hydroxide solution (BF) in the last time to reach a pH of between 5.5 and 6, 5.
The viscosity of the aqueous phase and the shear force applied to the mixture are the two main parameters that influence the size and monodispersity of the emulsion.
The compositions according to the invention may also be prepared according to a microfluidic process, in particular as described in international applications WO 2012/120043 or WO 2015/055748.
According to this embodiment, the drops obtained by this microfluidic process have a uniform size distribution. Preferably, the dispersed phase of the invention consists of a population of monodisperse drops, in particular such that they have a mean diameter D of from 500 μm to 3000 μm and a coefficient of variation Cv of less than 10%, or even less at 3%.
In the context of the present description, the term "monodisperse drops" means that the population of drops of the dispersed phase according to the invention has a uniform size distribution. Monodispersed drops have good monodispersity. Conversely, drops with poor monodispersity are said to be "polydispersed".
According to a mode, the average diameter D of the drops is for example measured by analysis of a photograph of a batch consisting of N drops, by an image processing software (Image J). Typically, according to this method, the diameter is measured in pixels, then reported in pm, depending on the size of the container containing the drops of the dispersion.
Preferably, the value of N is chosen greater than or equal to 30, so that this analysis reflects in a statistically significant manner the drop diameter distribution of said emulsion.
We measure the diameter Di of each drop, then we obtain the average diameter D by calculating the arithmetic mean of these values:
From these values 0 ,, it is also possible to obtain the standard deviation σ of the diameters of the drops of the dispersion:
The standard deviation σ of a dispersion reflects the distribution of the diameters D, drops of the dispersion around the average diameter D.
Knowing the mean diameter D and the standard deviation σ of a dispersion, it can be determined that 95.4% of the population of drops is found in the range of diameters
and that we find 68.2% of the population in the meantime
To characterize the monodispersity of the dispersion according to this mode of the invention, the coefficient of variation can be calculated:
This parameter reflects the distribution of the diameters of the drops as a function of the average diameter thereof.
The coefficient of variation Cv of the diameters of the drops according to this mode of the invention is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 3%.
Alternatively, the monodispersity can be demonstrated by placing a sample of a composition according to the invention in a bottle with constant circular section. A gentle stirring by rotating a quarter of a turn for half a second around the axis of symmetry through the bottle, followed by a rest of half a second is performed, before repeating the operation in the opposite direction, and this four times in a row.
The drops of the dispersed phase are organized in a crystalline form when they are monodispersed. Thus, they have a stack in a repeating pattern in three dimensions. It is then possible to observe, a regular stack which indicates a good monodispersity, an irregular stack reflecting the polydispersity of the dispersion.
The presence in the fatty phase of solid fatty substance (s) at room temperature and pressure, as envisaged above, may require adjustments in the process for preparing a composition according to the invention. In particular, the process for the preparation of such a composition according to the invention may comprise a heating step (between 40 ° C. and 150 ° C., in particular between 50 ° C. and 90 ° C.) of the fatty phase having a mixing / setting phase. in contact with said fatty phase with the aqueous phase and, where appropriate and in the case of a "non-microfluidic" process as mentioned above, the maintenance of this heating during stirring to obtain the desired emulsion, and therefore the composition according to the invention.
These adjustments are within the general skills of those skilled in the art.
In the case of a composition in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, the solutions (or fluids) used to constitute the continuous aqueous phase and the dispersed fatty phase are respectively designated External Fluid (EF) and Internal Fluid. (Fl).
In view of the foregoing, the fluid F1 comprises at least one first precursor polymer of the coacervate, in particular a cationic polymer, and in particular amodimethicone and at least one oil and / or at least one fatty substance that is solid at room temperature, in particular such as previously defined, and in addition, optionally, at least one additional asset (s) as mentioned above.
The fluid FE comprises at least water and at least a second precursor polymer of the coacervate, different from the first precursor polymer of the coacervate, in particular an anionic polymer, and in particular the carbomer, and, optionally, at least one additional active (s) as above or a base, preservatives and / or other water-soluble products such as glycerine.
According to one embodiment, the process for preparing a composition according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises a drop-forming step comprising: contacting an FE fluid and a fluid F1 as defined above; and the formation of drops of fatty phase, consisting of fluid F1, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase consisting of fluid FE, said drops comprising a bark insulating the heart of the drops of the fatty phase of the dispersion.
According to one embodiment where the composition is prepared according to a microfluidic process, the step of contacting the fluid FE and the fluid F1 as defined above may further comprise the presence of an intermediate fluid miscible with the fluid F1, as described in WO 2012/120043. This intermediate fluid is intended to form a film around the drop formed by the fluid Fl in the fluid FE. Thus, the intermediate fluid delays the diffusion of the first precursor polymer coacervate present in the Fl fluid until the intermediate fluid is mixed with the Fl fluid and thus ensures the formation of very stable drops stabilized by a very thin bark without obstruction of the microfluidic device.
According to one embodiment, the drop formation step may further comprise a step of injecting a solution for increasing the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase of the fluid FE. Preferably, the viscosity increasing solution is aqueous. This solution for increasing the viscosity is typically injected into the aqueous external fluid FE after formation of the dispersion according to the invention, and thus after formation of the drops. According to one embodiment, the solution for increasing the viscosity comprises a base, in particular an alkaline hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide.
According to one embodiment, when the Fl comprises at least one fatty substance that is solid at ambient temperature and pressure as described above, the process for preparing a composition according to the invention may further comprise a step of heating the fluid F1, comprising the fatty phase of the dispersion, at a temperature of from 40 ° C to 150 ° C, preferably from 50 ° C to 90 ° C, prior to the above-mentioned step of forming the drops, and therefore before mixing / setting contacting said fatty phase with the continuous aqueous phase.
This embodiment, in the case of a "non-microfluidic" method as mentioned above, may require the maintenance of this heating step after mixing / contacting said fatty phase with the continuous aqueous phase during the stirring until the desired emulsion is obtained.
This embodiment, in the case where the composition is prepared according to a microfluidic process, is advantageous, in particular, in that it makes it possible to dispense with the presence of the intermediate fluid described above.
According to this embodiment, the method of preparation may further comprise, between the heating step and the step of forming the drops, a step of lowering the temperature of the fluid F1, if necessary to room temperature.
uses
Preferably, a composition according to the invention is directly usable, at the end of the aforementioned preparation processes, as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition. A composition according to the invention, when prepared by means of a microfluidic process as described above, is also usable as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, after separation of the drops and redispersion thereof in a second phase. appropriate.
The compositions according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetics field.
They may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.
By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and preferably the skin.
The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.
According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is directly represented by the aqueous continuous phase as described above.
According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, especially the skin.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be skincare, sun protection, cleaning (makeup removal), hygiene or make-up products for the skin.
These compositions are therefore intended to be applied especially to the skin.
Thus, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition mentioned above, as a makeup, hygiene, cleaning and / or care product for keratinous substances, in particular the skin.
According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a makeup remover, a facial and / or body and / or hair care, anti age, a sunscreen, a oily skin care, a whitening care, a moisturizer, a BB cream, tinted cream or foundation, a face and / or body cleanser , a shower gel or a shampoo.
A care composition according to the invention can be in particular a solar composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant.
The compositions according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of cream, balm, lotion, serum, gel, gel-cream or mist.
The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, comprising a step of applying to the keratinous material at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
In particular, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one" unless otherwise specified.
Expressions "between ... and ...", "from ... to ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood inclusive unless otherwise stated .
The amounts of the ingredients in the examples are expressed as percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.
EXAMPLES
The following protocol is the one considered for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention described in the examples below, unless otherwise indicated.
Preparation protocol - In a beaker (1), weigh the osmosis water and the chelating agent (s) (in particular EDETA BD).
Place the beaker (1) under mechanical stirring with a deflocculating blade until homogenization.
Stir the stirring and add in the beaker (1) the (s) anionic polymer (s) (including the carbomer).
Leave the mixture obtained at rest for about 20 minutes (ensures the hydration of the anionic polymer), then resume stirring until homogenization.
Weigh and add in the beaker (1) the agent (s) of texture of aqueous phase (in particular Aristoflex AVC, Sepimax zen).
If necessary, weigh and add 10% sodium hydroxide solution.
Stir until homogenization. - In another beaker (2), weigh the glycerin, if necessary with at least one aqueous phase texturing agent. Mix with a spatula to obtain a homogenous premix.
Add the premix (2) into the beaker (1).
When the solution obtained in the beaker (1) is homogeneous, heat said solution to 67 ° C. - In another beaker (3), weigh the cationic polymer (in particular ramodimethicone) and the isononyl isononanoate.
With magnetic stirring, heat the solution to 67 ° C for about 5 minutes until homogenized.
Then, still in the beaker (3), weigh any additional oils and / or solid fats.
Put all under magnetic stirring, heat to 67 ° C for 10 minutes until homogenization. - When the solutions included in the beakers (1) and (3) are at temperature (i.e. 67 ° C), subject the solution of the beaker (1) to a strong mechanical agitation. Obtaining the emulsion then consists in adding under this strong mechanical agitation the solution of the beaker (3) in the beaker (1).
Stir for 15 to 20 minutes, then cool to 40-35 ° C.
In another beaker (4), add the preservative (s), especially phenoxyethanol (i.e. Microcare PE) and / or pentylene glycol (i.e. Microcare Emollient PTG). Mix with a spatula to obtain a homogenous premix. At 35 ° C, add the premix of the beaker (4) into the beaker (1). - When present, weigh and add the denatured alcohol (especially over-99 denat ethyl alcohol) into the beaker (1).
Leave to homogenize. - Weigh and add successively in the beaker (1) the cosmetic active agents and / or perfumes and / or coloring agents.
Leave to homogenize. - Weigh and add a 10% soda solution in the beaker (1).
Example 1: Preparation of a glittering balm for the body
A body balm is prepared according to the protocol described above and comprises the following ingredients:
Example 2: Preparation of a body lotion
A body lotion is prepared according to the protocol described above and comprises the following ingredients:
Example 3: Preparation of a serum
A serum is prepared according to the protocol described above and comprises the following ingredients:
Example 4: Preparation of a cream
A cream is prepared according to the protocol described above and comprises the following ingredients:
Example 5 Preparation of an aqueous gel-cream
A gel-cream is prepared according to the protocol described above and comprises the following ingredients:
Example 6: Preparation of a mist
A mist is prepared according to the protocol described above and comprises the following ingredients:
Unlike the aforementioned protocol, the preparation of the continuous aqueous phase and the dispersed fatty phase is carried out at ambient temperature (and not at 67 ° C.). In addition, the mechanical agitation for obtaining the emulsion is lower, namely of the order of 200 rpm.
Example 7 Composition Comprising a Pigment in the Aqueous Phase
The composition of Example 7 is a moisturizing serum and consists of the following ingredients:
The final composition comprises colorless fatty phase drops dispersed in a blue glittery aqueous gel. The visual effect is disturbed and brilliant depending on the exposure to light.
Example 8 Composition Comprising a Pigment in the Oily Phase
The composition of Example 8 is a scented water and consists of the following ingredients:
The final composition comprises drops of fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous gel, said drops having a visual "half-spheres" with the translucent colorless upper part and the opaque pink / red colored lower part.
Example 9 Composition Comprising a Pigment in the Oily Phase
The composition of Example 9 is a serum and consists of the following ingredients:
The final composition comprises drops of beige-colored fatty phase dispersed in a colorless translucent aqueous gel. The final rendering is opaque (matte).
For the aforementioned compositions (Examples 1-9), the results of the sensory analyzes revealed a new and attractive texture compared with conventional emulsions stabilized by surfactants.
This new sensorality can be described by an aqueous feeling, fresh and silky at the beginning of application. Then, an oily veil comes to cover the skin until it fades to leave a light film on the skin.
The compositions according to the invention push the limits of formulation with certain raw materials such as glycerin. Indeed, in the emulsions with day cream type surfactants, there is a maximum level of glycerine of about 5% which can be incorporated into a formula. Beyond that, the residual film on the skin is sticky which can not be acceptable in a care product.
With the present invention, the formulas can contain 30% glycerin without altering the finish on the skin.
In conclusion, the textures of the compositions according to the invention differ from those of the creams stabilized with surfactants. Among the differences observed, three major advantages can be noted.
The formulations of the compositions according to the invention may contain up to 30% glycerin without conferring a tacky finish on the skin. The limits of the formulation are pushed back with this type of raw material.
Combined with this advantage, the fat felt during the application does not evolve according to the percentage of glycerin, which allows to have formulas felt less fat.
Finally, the compositions according to the invention have a great ease of application with an optimum for 30% or even 50% by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of said compositions.

权利要求:
Claims (16)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase in the form of drops, said drops comprising a bark formed of at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer, wherein the dispersed fatty phase comprises at least one H1 oil in which the cationic polymer is soluble.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the oil H1 is chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, esters and synthetic ethers, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, oils silicone, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the H1 oil is selected from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone, isohexadecane, polydimethylsiloxane, octyldodecanol, neopentanoate, and the like. isodecyl and mixtures thereof.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising from 0.0001% to 50% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the fatty phase further comprises at least one solid fatty substance selected from waxes, pasty fatty substances, butters, and mixtures thereof.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. Composition according to any one of claims Λ to 5, wherein the anionic polymer is a crosslinked carbomer or copolymer acrylates / C10-3o alkyl acrylate, preferably a carbomer.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
The composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said composition comprises from 0.01% to 5%, of. preferably from 0.05% to 2%, and preferably from 0.1% to 0.5%, by weight of anionic polymer (s), in particular of carbomer (s), relative to the total weight of said composition .
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the cationic polymer has the following formula: in which:

- Ri, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent OH or CH3; - R4 represents a group -CH2- or a group -X-NH- in which X is a divalent alkylene radical C3 or C4; x is an integer from 10 to 5000; y is an integer between 2 and 1000; and - z is an integer from 0 to 10.
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which each drop comprises from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, by weight of cationic polymer (s). , in particular amodimethicone (s), relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least one texturing agent different from the anionic polymer and / or the fatty phase comprises at least one texturing agent different from the cationic polymer.
[11" id="c-fr-0011]
11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, said composition further comprising at least one active agent chosen from moisturizing agents, cicatrizing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermodecon- trating agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, perfuming agents and mixtures thereof.
[12" id="c-fr-0012]
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising at least 5% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of said composition.
[13" id="c-fr-0013]
13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the size of the drops is less than 500 pm.
[14" id="c-fr-0014]
14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, in particular at least 40%, and better still at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight. of said composition.
[15" id="c-fr-0015]
15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it does not comprise surfactant.
[16" id="c-fr-0016]
16. Non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material at least one layer of a composition according to any one of claims 1. to 10.

类似技术:

---

公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题

---

FR3041251A1|2017-03-24|COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIONS WHOSE FATTY PHASE IS IN THE FORM OF DROPS

---

EP3349857B1|2021-07-28|Stable dispersions containing drops comprising a gelling agent

---

EP3413979B1|2020-07-29|W/o emulsion having a fatty phase which is formed by a mixture of dops having a different diameter

---

FR2856924A1|2005-01-07|COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING SILICONE ELASTOMER AND BLOCK SILICONE POLYMER

---

EP3644957A1|2020-05-06|Dispersions comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

---

WO2019002579A1|2019-01-03|Three-phase composition

---

WO2018077977A1|2018-05-03|Double emulsions comprising a gelled fatty phase

---

EP3554462A1|2019-10-23|Method for improving the sensorial properties of oil-in-water emulsions

---

US20130302385A1|2013-11-14|Compositions containing a water-based gel and a water-in-oil emulsion

---

EP2208510B1|2011-03-30|Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a retinoid, a non-phosphated compound based on adenosine and a semi-crystalline polymer

---

FR3041250A1|2017-03-24|DISPERSIONS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE COLORING AGENT

---

FR3040879A1|2017-03-17|ANHYDROUS FILTERING COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILICONE FATTY PHASE

---

EP3349856A1|2018-07-25|Stable emulsions of polymer-shell drops

---

JP6442420B2|2018-12-19|Emulsion-type color changing composition containing emulsifiable hydrophilic gelling agent

---

EP3380198B1|2020-06-24|Cosmetic composition comprising at least a powder exhibiting a low thermal conductivity

---

WO2018077986A1|2018-05-03|Double emulsions with double coacervate

---

FR3046066A1|2017-06-30|COMPOSITION BASED ON SPICULISPORIC ACID

---

FR3071730A1|2019-04-05|COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIQUID CONTINUOUS AQUEOUS PHASE AND A DISPERSE PHASE IN THE FORM OF DROPS

---

FR3098113A1|2021-01-08|Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a fatty phase in the form of drops and aggregates

---

FR3082731A1|2019-12-27|DISPERSIONS COMPRISING MACROSCOPIC DROPS DISPERSED IN A CONTINUOUS PHASE INCLUDING REFLECTIVE PARTICLES

---

WO2019053236A1|2019-03-21|Dispersion with a dispersed fatty phase, having a high pigment content

---

US20210169776A1|2021-06-10|Cosmetic composition with a metallic effect

---

EP2903693B1|2019-07-24|Copolymers in cosmetic compositions

---

FR3091164A1|2020-07-03|Solid cosmetic composition comprising anhydrous spheroids in dispersion in a solid aqueous continuous phase

---

FR3104995A1|2021-06-25|ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON WAXES FOR CARE, HYGIENE AND / OR MAKEUP, LIPS AND / OR SKIN

同族专利:

---

公开号 | 公开日

---

FR3041251B1|2019-01-25|

引用文献:

---

公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

---

US20140045949A1|2011-03-08|2014-02-13|Mathieu Goutayer|Method for forming drops of a first phase, dispersed in a second phase substantially immiscible with the first phase|

---

WO2015055839A1|2013-10-17|2015-04-23|Capsum|Device for producing dispersed elements, and associated assembly and production method|

---

FR3012050A1|2013-10-17|2015-04-24|Capsum|METHOD OF FORMING A DISPERSION COMPRISING DROPS, AND APPARATUS THEREFOR|

---

WO2015148892A1|2014-03-28|2015-10-01|Nusil Technology Llc|Dispersions containing encapsulated materials and compositions using same|WO2019002308A1|2017-06-27|2019-01-03|Capsum|Dispersions comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil|

---

WO2019002579A1|2017-06-30|2019-01-03|Capsum|Three-phase composition|

---

WO2019053236A1|2017-09-14|2019-03-21|Capsum|Dispersion with a dispersed fatty phase, having a high pigment content|

---

WO2019053483A1|2017-09-18|2019-03-21|Teoxane|Topical composition comprising crosslinked hyaluronic acid and a polyacrylate compound|

---

FR3071730A1|2017-10-02|2019-04-05|Capsum|COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIQUID CONTINUOUS AQUEOUS PHASE AND A DISPERSE PHASE IN THE FORM OF DROPS|

---

WO2019193949A1|2018-04-06|2019-10-10|L'oreal|Composition for keratin fibers comprising volatile branched c13-15 alkane oil|

---

WO2019228996A1|2018-05-29|2019-12-05|L'oreal|Cosmetic composition with visible oil droplets|

---

FR3082731A1|2018-06-26|2019-12-27|Capsum|DISPERSIONS COMPRISING MACROSCOPIC DROPS DISPERSED IN A CONTINUOUS PHASE INCLUDING REFLECTIVE PARTICLES|

---

FR3083118A1|2018-07-02|2020-01-03|L V M H Recherche|GEL COMPOSITION WITH UV FILTERS|

---

WO2021234134A1|2020-05-21|2021-11-25|Capsum|Bark-free, stable double emulsion|

---

WO2021234135A1|2020-05-21|2021-11-25|Capsum|Bark-free, stable dispersion|

---

法律状态:
2016-07-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |

---

2017-03-24| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20170324 |

---

2017-06-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

---

2018-08-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

---

2019-08-22| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

---

2020-08-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |

---

2021-08-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

优先权:

---

申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

---

FR1558849A|FR3041251B1|2015-09-18|2015-09-18|COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIONS WHOSE FATTY PHASE IS IN THE FORM OF DROPS|

---

FR1558849|2015-09-18|FR1558849A| FR3041251B1|2015-09-18|2015-09-18|COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIONS WHOSE FATTY PHASE IS IN THE FORM OF DROPS|