DISPERSIONS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE COLORING AGENT

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a dispersion containing a dispersed phase comprising drops and a continuous aqueous phase, wherein the drops comprise at least one fatty phase and a bark, said bark comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer; and said dispersion comprising from 0.00001% to 90% by weight of dye agent (s) present in the dispersed phase and / or the continuous aqueous phase, based on the total weight of said dispersion.
公开号:FR3041250A1
申请号:FR1558848
申请日:2015-09-18
公开日:2017-03-24
发明作者:Lucie Chatry；Mathieu Goutayer；Amelie Pujol
申请人:Capsum SAS；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

Dispersions comprising at least one coloring agent
The present invention relates to dispersions comprising at least one coloring agent, as well as their uses in the cosmetics field.
It is known to prepare cosmetic compositions comprising a coloring agent capable of reflecting light and / or modifying the visual perception of the cosmetic composition. The coloring agents are mainly used in makeup (for example in mascaras), but also in complexion correctors associated with skin care. It is notably known that a green iridescence makes it possible to reduce the redness of the skin by adding these two complementary colors. Similarly, the purple reflection will give a "good-looking" effect to a yellow / green complexion. On the other hand, the masking of wrinkles with mineral substances can be achieved effectively by pigments having a structure comparable to that of the skin. The flakes are oriented parallel to the surface of the skin when applied to the face. The cosmetic support containing the pigment, by accumulating preferably in the cutaneous relief, reproduces with the aid of these oriented flakes the epidermal continuity, which has the effect that the wrinkles fade away.
There is a need for new dispersions comprising at least one coloring agent which are especially stable and which can be used in combination with other cosmetic active agents.
The present invention aims to provide a dispersion of drops comprising at least one coloring agent, said drops being dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.
The present invention also aims to provide a stable dispersion in the presence of a coloring agent.
The present invention also aims to provide a dispersion of colored drops.
Thus, the present invention relates to a dispersion containing a dispersed phase comprising drops and a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, in which the drops comprise at least one fatty phase and a bark, said bark comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer, said dispersion comprising from 0.00001% to 90% by weight of dye agent (s) present in the dispersed phase and / or in the continuous aqueous phase, relative to total weight of said dispersion.
The present invention also relates to a dispersion containing a dispersed phase comprising drops and a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, in which the drops comprise at least one fatty phase and a bark, said bark comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer, said dispersion comprising at least one coloring agent present in the dispersed phase and / or in the continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the dispersed phase, said coloring agent being chosen from the group consisting of the pigments, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof.
In the context of the present invention, the abovementioned dispersions may be denoted by the term "emulsions
According to the invention, the pH of a dispersion is typically between 5.5 and 7.0.
A drop according to the invention is composed of a heart, also called inside of the drop, surrounded by a bark, which isolates the inside of the drop from the continuous phase of the emulsion.
According to one embodiment, the dispersions according to the invention do not comprise a surfactant. In this case, they are different from the usual cosmetic compositions. The emulsions according to the invention thus have a particular interest as regards the texture by differentiating themselves from "classical" emulsions stabilized by surfactants.
The present invention also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one dispersion according to the invention, in combination with a physiologically acceptable medium.
The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one dispersion or a layer of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
The present invention also relates to the use of a dispersion or a cosmetic composition according to the invention, to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce wrinkles and fine lines.
According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention is prepared by implementing a "non-microfluidic" process, namely by simple emulsification, for the preparation of a dispersion according to the invention, the size of the drops. the dispersed phase is less than 500 μm, or even less than 200 μm. Preferably, the size of the drops is between 0.5 μm to 50 μm, preferably between 1 μm and 20 μm.
According to this embodiment, the present invention thus makes it possible to have drops of reduced size, in particular with respect to drops obtained by a microfluidic process. This small size of drops will have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a dispersion according to the invention, formed of finely dispersed drops, has improved lubricity qualities.
According to another embodiment, an emulsion according to the invention is prepared by implementing a "microfluidic" method, in particular as described below. According to this embodiment, the droplet size of the dispersed phase is greater than 500 μm, or even greater than 1000 μm. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the size of the drops is between 500 and 3000 μm, preferably between 1000 μm and 2000 μm. As such, it was not obvious that compositions comprising such drops larger than 500 μm are stable.
In the context of the present invention, the term "size" refers to the diameter, in particular the mean diameter, of the drops.
Viscosity
According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention has a viscosity of from 1 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, better still from 400 mPa.s to 100 mPa.s. 000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 1000 mPa.s to 30,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25 ° C.
The viscosity is measured at ambient temperature, for example T = 25 ° C. ± 2 ° C. and at ambient pressure, for example 1013 mbar, by the following method.
A Brookfield type viscometer, typically a Brookfield RVDV-E digital viscometer (spring torque of 7187.0 dyne-cm), is used which is a rotational speed-controlled rotational viscometer (designated by the English term). "Spindle"). A speed is imposed on the mobile in rotation and the measurement of the torque exerted on the mobile makes it possible to determine the viscosity knowing the geometry / shape parameters of the mobile used.
For example, a mobile of size No. 04 (Brookfield reference: RV4) is used. The shear rate corresponding to the measurement of the viscosity is defined by the mobile used and the speed of rotation thereof.
The viscosity measurement is carried out for 1 minute at room temperature (T = 25 ° C. ± 2 ° C.). About 150 g of solution are placed in a beaker of 250 ml volume, having a diameter of about 7 cm so that the height of the volume occupied by the 150 g of solution is sufficient to reach the gauge marked on the mobile. . Then, the viscometer is started at a speed of 10 rpm and the value displayed on the screen is expected to be stable. This measurement gives the viscosity of the tested fluid, as mentioned in the context of the present invention.
Continuous aqueous phase
As indicated above, the dispersions according to the invention comprise an aqueous continuous phase, preferably in the form of a gel.
According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase has a viscosity of between 400 mPa.s and 100,000 mPa.s, preferably between 800 mPa.s and 30,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25 ° C.
This viscosity is measured according to the method described above.
The continuous phase of the dispersions comprises water.
In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.
According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water of the aqueous continuous phase is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, and better still at least 60%. %, especially between 70% and 98%, and preferably between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of said continuous phase.
The continuous aqueous phase of the dispersion according to the invention may further comprise at least one base. It may comprise a single base or a mixture of several different bases. The presence of at least one base in said aqueous continuous phase contributes in particular to enhance the viscosity of the latter.
According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is a mineral base.
According to one embodiment, the mineral base is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
Preferably, the mineral base is an alkali metal hydroxide, and especially NaOH.
According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is an organic base. Among the organic bases, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, pyridine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, or else triethylamine.
A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.02% to 1% by weight of base, preferably from mineral base, and especially NaOH, relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
According to one embodiment, the dispersions according to the invention do not comprise a surfactant.
According to another embodiment, the aqueous continuous phase may further comprise at least one surfactant. The surfactant is preferably an anionic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or a mixture thereof. The molecular weight of the surfactant is typically between 150 g / mol and 10,000 g / mol, advantageously between 250 g / mol and 1500 g / mol.
In the case where the surfactant is an anionic surfactant, it is, for example, chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, alkaline alkyl phosphates, dialkyl sulphosuccinates and alkaline earth salts of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. These surfactants advantageously have at least one hydrophobic hydrocarbon chain having a number of carbons greater than 5 or even 10 and at least one hydrophilic anionic group, such as a sulphate, a sulphonate or a carboxylate linked to one end of the hydrophobic chain.
In the case where the surfactant is a cationic surfactant, it is for example chosen from alkylpyridium or alkylammonium halide salts such as n-ethyldodecylammonium chloride or bromide, cetylammonium chloride or bromide (CTAB) . These surfactants advantageously have at least one hydrophobic hydrocarbon chain having a number of carbon atoms greater than 5 or even 10 and at least one hydrophilic cationic group, such as a quaternary ammonium cation.
In the case where the surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, it is for example chosen from polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated derivatives of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, or alkylphenols, arylphenols, or from alkylglucosides, polysorbates, cocamides .
According to one embodiment of the invention, the surfactant is sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS or SDS).
Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase of a dispersion according to the invention may comprise a mass content of surfactant (s) greater than 0.001%, and advantageously greater than 0.1%, by weight relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
Furthermore, the continuous aqueous phase of a dispersion according to the invention may comprise a mass content of surfactant (s) of less than 10.0%, and advantageously less than 1.0%, by weight relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
Bark of drops
As mentioned above, the drops according to the invention are surrounded by a shell (or membrane) comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer.
According to the invention, the drops obtained may have a very thin bark, in particular of thickness less than 1% of the diameter of the drops. The thickness of the bark is thus preferably less than 1 μm and is therefore too small to be measured by optical methods.
According to one embodiment, the thickness of the bark of the drops is less than 1000 nm, especially between 1 and 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, advantageously less than 50 nm, and preferably less than 10 nm.
The measurement of the thickness of the bark of the drops of the invention can be carried out by the small angle neutron scattering (X-ray Scattering) method, as implemented in Sato et al. J. Chem. Phys. 111, 1393-1401 (2007).
For this, the drops are produced using deuterated water and are then washed three times with a deuterated oil, such as, for example, a deuterated hydrocarbon-type oil (octane, dodecane, hexadecane).
After washing, the drops are then transferred to the Neutrons cell to determine the l (q) spectrum; q being the wave vector. From this spectrum, classical analytical treatments (REF) are applied to determine the thickness of the hydrogenated (undeuterated) bark.
According to one embodiment, the bark surrounding the drops of the dispersed phase is stiffened, which in particular gives good resistance to drops and reduces or even prevents their coalescence.
This bark is typically formed by coacervation, i.e. precipitation of charged polymers of opposite charges. Within a coacervate, the bonds binding the charged polymers to each other are of ionic type, and are generally stronger than bonds present within a surfactant-type membrane. The bark is formed by coacervation of at least two charged polymers of opposite polarity (or polyelectrolyte) and preferably in the presence of a first polymer, of cationic type, and a second polymer, different from the first polymer, of the type anionic. These two polymers act as stiffening agents for the membrane.
The formation of the coacervate between these two polymers is generally caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, reagent concentration, etc.). The coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two charged polymers of opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure by electrostatic interactions between the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer. The membrane thus formed around each drop typically forms a bark which completely encapsulates the heart of the drop, and thus isolates the heart of the drop from the continuous aqueous phase.
Anionic polymer
In the context of the present description, the term "anionic polymer type" or "anionic polymer", a polymer having chemical functions of anionic type. We can also speak of anionic polyelectrolyte.
By "chemical function of anionic type" is meant a chemical function AH capable of giving a proton to give a function A. According to the conditions of the medium in which it is located, the anionic polymer thus comprises chemical functions in the form of AH, or in the form of its conjugate base A '.
As an example of chemical functions of anionic type, mention may be made of the carboxylic acid functions -COOH, optionally present in the form of a carboxylate anion -COO-.
As an example of anionic type polymer, there may be mentioned any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least a part of which carries anionic type chemical functions, such as carboxylic acid functions. Such monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid function. It may for example be anionic polymer comprising monomeric units comprising at least one chemical function of carboxylic acid type.
Preferably, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water.
Examples of anionic polymer suitable for carrying out the invention include copolymers of acrylic acid or maleic acid and other monomers, such as acrylamide or alkyl acrylates. C5-C8 alkyl acrylates, C10-C30 alkyl acrylates, C12-C22 alkyl methacrylates, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, hydroxyester acrylates, crosspolymer acrylates, and mixtures thereof.
According to the invention, an anionic polymer is preferably a carbomer as described below. This polymer can also be a crosslinked copolymer acrylates / Cio-alkyl acrylate (INCI name: acrylates / C10-3o alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer).
According to one embodiment, the bark of the drops comprises at least one anionic polymer, such as for example a carbomer.
In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "carbomer" means an optionally crosslinked homopolymer resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore a poly (acrylic acid) optionally crosslinked. Among the carbomers of the invention, mention may be made of those sold under the names Tego®Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol or Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.
According to one embodiment, the term "carbomer" or "carbomer" or "Carbopol®" means a high molecular weight acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with allyl sucrose or pentaerythritol allylic ethers (handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5th Edition, plll). Examples include Carbopol ®910, Carbopol ®934, Carbopol ®934P, Carbopol ®940, Carbopol ®941, Carbopol ®71G, Carbopol ®980, Carbopol ®971P or Carbopol ®974P . According to one embodiment, the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w / w.
The carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.
A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2%, and preferentially from 0.10% to 0.5%, of anionic polymer (s) ( s), especially carbomer (s), relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
According to the invention, the dispersions according to the invention may comprise a carbomer and a crosslinked copolymer acrylates / Cio-30 alkyl acrylate.
The aqueous phase according to the invention may also comprise at least one crosslinked polymer or at least one crosslinked copolymer, said crosslinked polymer or crosslinked copolymer comprising at least one unit derived from the polymerization of one of the following monomers: acrylic or methacrylic acid, acrylate or alkyl methacrylate comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or their salts.
The aqueous phase may also comprise a mixture of crosslinked polymers or a mixture of crosslinked copolymers or a mixture of crosslinked polymer (s) and crosslinked copolymer (s).
According to the invention, the term "unit derived from the polymerization of a monomer" means that the polymer or copolymer is a polymer or copolymer obtained by polymerization or copolymer of said monomer.
According to one embodiment, the crosslinked polymer or the crosslinked copolymer is a crosslinked polyacrylate.
The crosslinked copolymers and polymers of the invention are anionic.
According to one embodiment, the copolymer is a copolymer of unsaturated carboxylic acid and unsaturated carboxylate of C 1 -C 30, preferably C 1 -C 4, alkyl. Such a copolymer comprises at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C 1 -C 30) alkyl ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.
Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below: (1) in which: denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, that is to say acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and whose hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester (CrC30) unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the following monomer of formula (II):
(II) in which: R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (that is to say, acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3 denoting an alkyl radical; C 1 -C 30, and preferably C 1 -C 4.
Among this type of copolymer, use will be made more particularly of those formed from a monomer mixture comprising: (i) essentially acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (II) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, (iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth) acrylate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, and castor oil.
According to one embodiment, the crosslinked polymer or the crosslinked copolymer is a polymer or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and / or of alkyl acrylate comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and / or alkyl methacrylate comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
According to one embodiment, the crosslinked copolymer is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of alkyl acrylate comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 2 carbon atoms.
In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of alkyl acrylate comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms", a crosslinked copolymer resulting from the polymerization of a methacrylic acid monomer and an alkyl acrylate monomer comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably, in this copolymer, the methacrylic acid is from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight of the total weight of the copolymer.
Preferably, in this copolymer, the alkyl acrylate is from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight of the total weight of the copolymer.
In particular, the alkyl acrylate is chosen from alkyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate.
According to one embodiment, the crosslinked polymer or the crosslinked copolymer according to the invention, present in the continuous aqueous phase, is chosen from the group consisting of the following polymers or copolymers: Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates crosspolymer-4, Acrylates crosspolymer-3, Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer and Polyacrylate-14 (INCI names).
Among said polymers above, the products sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade names Fixate Superhold (INCI name = Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer), Fixate Freestyle Polymer (INCI name = Acrylates crosspolymers) are particularly preferred according to the present invention. 3), Carbopol® Aqua SF1 (INCI name = Acrylates copolymer) and Carbopol® Aqua SF2 (INCI name = Acrylates crosspolymer-4).
Preferably, the crosslinked copolymer is Carbopol® Aqua SF1 (INCI name = Acrylates copolymer).
According to one embodiment, the crosslinked copolymer is chosen from crosslinked copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and of alkyl acrylates comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
According to the invention, the dispersion of the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 3% by weight of polymer ( s) crosslinked (s) or copolymer (s) crosslinked (s) relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a carbomer and a crosslinked copolymer Carbopol® Aqua SF1 (INCI name = Acrylates copolymer).
Cationic polymer
According to one embodiment, the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, further comprise a cationic type polymer. They may also include several cationic polymers. This cationic polymer is the one mentioned above which forms the bark by coacervation with the anionic polymer.
In the context of the present application, and unless otherwise stated, the term "cationic polymer" or "cationic polymer" means a polymer having chemical functions of cationic type. We can also speak of cationic polyelectrolyte.
Preferably, the cationic polymer is lipophilic or fat-soluble.
In the context of the present application, and unless otherwise stated, "chemical function of cationic type" means a chemical function B capable of capturing a proton to give a function BH +. Depending on the conditions of the medium in which it is located, the cationic type polymer therefore has chemical functions in B form, or in BH + form, its conjugated acid.
As an example of chemical functions of cationic type, mention may be made of the primary, secondary and tertiary amine functions, optionally present in the form of ammonium cations.
As an example of a cationic type polymer, there may be mentioned any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers, at least a part of which carries chemical functions of cationic type, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.
Such monomers are, for example, aziridine, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
Such monomers are, for example, aziridine, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
Among the examples of cationic polymers suitable for the implementation of the invention, there may be mentioned amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified with primary amine and secondary amine functions.
Mention may also be made of amodimethicone derivatives, for example copolymers of amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers containing amine functions.
Mention may be made of PEG-14 / amodimethicone bis-isobutyl copolymer, Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone and bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone.
Mention may also be made of polysaccharide polymers comprising amine functions, such as chitosan or guar gum derivatives (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride).
Mention may also be made of polypeptide-type polymers comprising amine functions, such as polylysine.
Mention may also be made of polyethyleneimine polymers comprising amine functions, such as linear or branched polyethyleneimine.
According to one embodiment, the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, comprise a cationic polymer which is a silicone polymer modified with a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, such as amodimethicone.
According to one embodiment, the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, comprise amodimethicone.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula: in which:
- Ri, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent OH or CH3; - R4 represents a group -CH2- or a group -X-NH- in which X is a divalent alkylene radical C3 or C4; x is an integer between 10 and 5000, preferably between 30 and 1000, and more preferably between 80 and 300; y is an integer between 2 and 1000, preferably between 4 and 100, and more preferably between 5 and 20; and - z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and better is equal to 1.
In the aforementioned formula, when R4 is -X-NH-, X is attached to the silicon atom.
In the aforementioned formula, R 1 R 2 and R 3 are preferably CH 3.
In the aforementioned formula, R4 is preferably - (CH2) 3 -NH-,
According to the invention, each drop may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, by weight of cationic polymer (s), in particular amodimethicone (s), by ratio to the total weight of the fat phase.
Fatty phase
According to the invention, the dispersions comprise a dispersed fatty phase, in the form of drops, comprising at least one coloring agent.
The fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one oil and / or at least one fatty substance that is solid at ambient temperature and pressure, in particular as defined below.
Oils)
According to one embodiment, the drops of the dispersed phase may comprise at least one oil. The dispersed fatty phase can therefore be designated as an oily phase.
According to the invention, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention may further comprise at least one H1 oil.
The dispersions according to the invention may comprise a single oil H1 or a mixture of several oils H1. A dispersion according to the invention may therefore comprise at least one, at least two, at least three, at least four, at least five or more of H1 oil (s) as described above. after.
The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).
As oils H1 usable in the composition of the invention include for example: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R, COOR 2 and F 4 OF 4 in which R 1 represents the residue of a C 8 to G 29 fatty acid, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain , branched or unbranched, C3 to C30, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopentyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate octyl-2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrahehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631); linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or alternatively octyldodecanol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; and - their mixtures.
According to one embodiment, the oil H1 is chosen from esters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents the residue of a C8 to C29 fatty acid, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, at C3 to C30. .
According to one embodiment, the oil H1 is chosen from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms.
According to one embodiment, the oil H1 is chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called , 2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®.
According to a preferred embodiment, the oil H1 is chosen from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone, isohexadecane, polydimethylsiloxane, octyldodecanol, isodecyl neopentanoate and their salts. mixtures.
Preferably, the oil H1 is isononyl isononanoate.
According to one embodiment, the oil H1 is not a vegetable oil.
According to one embodiment, the oil H1 is not represented by polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and preferably is not a silicone oil.
According to a preferred embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight of oil (s) H1, preferably isononyl isononanoate, relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
According to one embodiment, the content of oil (s) H1 in the fatty phase is between 1% and 99.99%, preferably between 20% and 90%, and in particular between 50% and 80%, by weight. relative to the total weight of said fatty phase.
According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the dispersions of the invention may further comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil of plant origin H2. The fatty phase may comprise several H2 oils.
As vegetable oils H2, particular mention may be made of liquid triglycerides of C4-C10 fatty acids such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, seed, or grape, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those available under the trade names "Miglyol" 810 >>, "Miglyol 812" and "Miglyol 818" by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, or shea butter oil.
Mention may also be made of the following compounds: C10-C18 triglycerides which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.), triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), triglycerides of caprylic acids, caprique, myristic and stearic (INCI name: Caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic Triglyceride), triethylhexanoine, hydrogenated vegetable oil, meadowfoam seed oil Limnanthes Alba (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil), Olea Europaea olive oil (INCI name: Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil), Macadamia nut oil (INCI name: Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil), Rosa Canina rosehip oil (INCI name: Rosa Canina Fruit Oil), soybean oil (INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil), sunflower seed oil (INCI name: Flelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil), corn oil (name INCI: Zea Mays (Corn) Oil), hydrogenated palm oil (INCI name: Fly palm oil), tribeostearin (INCI name: triisostearin), apricot kernel oil (INCI name: Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil), rice (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil), argan oil (INCI name: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil), avocado oil (INCI name: Persea Gratissima Oil), olive oil evening primrose (INCI name: Oenothera Biennis Oil), palm oil (INCI name: Elaeis Guineensis Oil), rice germ oil (INCI name: Oryza Sativa Germ Oil), hydrogenated coconut oil ( INCI name: Hydrogenated Coconut Oil), sweet almond oil (INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), grape seed oil (INCI name: Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil), sesame seed oil ( INCI name: Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil), peanut seed oil (INCI name: Arachis Hypogaea Oil), hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), Mortiere oil lla isabellina (INCI name: Mortierella Oil), safflower seed oil (INCI name: Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil), Queensland Macadamia integrifolia nut oil (INCI name: Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil), tricaprylin (or triacylglycerol), vegetable oil (INCI name: Olus Oil), palm oil extracted from the nucleus (INCI name: Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil), coconut oil (INCI name: Cocos Nucifera Oil), l Wheat germ oil (INCI name: Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil), borage seed oil (INCI name: Borago Officinalis Seed Oil), shea oil (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Oil), oil hazelnut (INCI name: Corylus Avellana Seed Oil), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), hydrogenated palm kernel oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil), seed oil mango (INCI name: Mangifera Indica Seed Oil), pomegranate seed oil (INCI name: Punica Granatum Seed Oil ), Chinese cabbage seed oil (INCI name: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil), passion fruit seed oil (INCI name: Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil), camellia seed oil from Japan ( INCI name: Camellia Japonica Seed Oil), green tea seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil), corn germ oil (INCI name: Zea Mays Germ Oil), oil of hoplostete (INCI name: Hoplostethus Oil), Brazil nut oil (INCI name: Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil), musk rose seed oil (INCI name: Rosa Moschata Seed Oil), the seed oil of Inca Inchi (or Sacha lnchi) (INCI name: Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil), Babassu Seed Oil (INCI name: Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil), the seed oil of a hybrid sunflower strain (INCI name: Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil), sea buckthorn oil (INCI name: Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil), Marula seed oil (INCI name: Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil), Aleurites Moluccana Seed (INCI name: Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil), Ruby Seed Oil (INCI Name: Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil), Camellia Kissi Seed Oil (INCI Name: Camellia Kissi Seed Oil), baobab seed oil (INCI name: Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil), baobab oil (INCI name: Adansonia Digitata Oil), Moringa seed oil (INCI name: Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil), perilla sheath oil (INCI name: Perilla Ocymoides Seed Oil), castor seed oil (INCI name: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), canola oil (INCI name: Canola Oil), seed oil of blackcurrant (INCI name: Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil), tea seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil), raspberry seed oil (INCI name: Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil), Abyssinian crambe seed (INCI name: Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil), rosehip seed oil (INCI name: Rosa Canina Seed Oil), viperi oil plantain leaves (INCI name: Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil), tomato seed oil (INCI name: Solanum Lycopersicum Seed Oil), bitter almond essential oil (INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus Amara Kernel Oil) , yuzu seed oil (INCI name: Citrus Junos Seed Oil), pumpkin seed oil (INCI name: Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil), Mustela Mustelidae mink oil (INCI name: Mustela Oil), desert date seed oil (INCI name: Balanites Roxburghii Seed Oil), Brassica Napus Seed Oil (INCI name: Brassica Napus Seed Oil), Calophyllum Oil (INCI name: Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil) ), Arctic Mature Seed Oil (INCI name: Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil), Japanese White Pine Seed Oil (INCI name: Pinus Pentaphylla Seed Oil), Watermelon Seed Oil (INCI name : Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil), Nut Seed Oil (INCI name: Juglans Regia Seed Oil), Nigel Seed Oil (INCI name : Nigella Sativa Seed Oil), carrot seed oil (INCI name: Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil), Coix Lacryma-jobi Ma-yuen seed oil (INCI name: Coix Lacryma-jobi Ma-yuen Seed Oil), Coix Lacryma-jobi seed oil (INCI name: Coix Lachryma-Jobi Seed Oil), Lipid blend of Triticum Vulgare flour (INCI name: Triticum Vulgare Flour Lipids), Trihydroxymethoxystearin (name INCI: Trihydroxymethoxystearin), triheptanoine (INCI name: Triheptanoin), cranberry seed oil (INCI name: Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil), vanilla oil (INCI name: Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil), cranberry seed (INCI name: Oxycoccus Palustris Seed Oil), Acai oil (INCI name: Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oi), triester of hydrogenated castor oil and isostearic acice (INCI name: Flydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate), hydrogenated cottonseed oil (INCI name: Flydrogenated Cottonseed Oil), hygrogenated olive (INCI name: Flydrogenated Olive Oil), hydrogenated peanut oil (INCI name: Flydrogenated Peanut Oil), hydrogenated soybean oil (INCI name: Flydrogenated Soybean Oil), oil extracted from yellow chicken egg (INCI name: Egg Yolk Oil), peach pit kernel oil (INCI name: Prunus Persica Kernel Oil), glycerides of canola oil and phytosterols (INCI name: Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides), black currant seed oil (INCI name: Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil), karanja seed oil (INCI name: Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil) and roucou oil (INCI name: Roucou (Bixa orellana) Oil), olive oil extract, especially phytosqualane, rosehip oil, coriander oil, flaxseed oil, chia oil, fenugreek oil, hemp oil, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the FH2 oil is chosen from those rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "unsaturated fatty acid" means a fatty acid comprising at least one double bond. It is more particularly long chain fatty acids, that is to say can have more than 14 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acids may be in acid form, or in salt form, for example their calcium salt, or in the form of derivatives, especially fatty acid ester (s).
Preferably, the oil H2 is chosen from oils rich in long-chain fatty acids, that is to say able to have more than 14 carbon atoms, and better unsaturated fatty acids having from 18 to 22 carbon atoms. especially en-3 and ω-6 fatty acids. Thus, advantageously, the vegetable oils are chosen from evening primrose, borage, blackcurrant seed, hemp, walnut, soybean, sunflower, wheat germ, fenugreek, rosebush and musk rosebush oils. echium, argan, baobab, rice bran, sesame, almond, hazelnut, chia, flax, olive, avocado, safflower, coriander, rapeseed (in particular Brassica naptus ), and their mixtures.
Preferably, the H2 oil is chosen from matt and non-glossy oils. In particular, mention may be made of Moringa oil.
According to one embodiment, the content of oil (s) H2 in the fatty phase is between 0% and 40%, preferably between 0.1% and 25%, and in particular between 1% and 20%, by weight. relative to the total weight of said fatty phase.
According to one embodiment, the mass ratio between the amount of oil (s) H1 and the amount of oil (s) H2 ranges from 0.025 to 99.99, preferably from 0.8 to 90, and in particular from 2.5 to 80.
The fatty phase may also comprise at least one other oil different from the oils H1 and H2.
An oil-in-water dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.0001% to 50%, preferably from 0.1% to 40%, and better still from 1% to 25% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
Solid fatty substances
According to one embodiment, the drops of the dispersed phase may comprise at least one solid fat at room temperature and pressure selected from waxes, pasty fatty substances, butters, and mixtures thereof.
Wax (es)
For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 120 ° C.
The protocol for measuring this melting point is described below.
The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.
Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-tetrastearate ( trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetra-enehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.
It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.
It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point.
Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC ).
The silicone waxes that can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20-C6o) alkyldimethicones, in particular especially (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.
It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example, siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax by Koster Keunen.
The waxes may also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.
Butter (s) or pasty fat
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fatty substance") is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 25 ° C. the liquid fraction and a fraction solid, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Fig). In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 25 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25 ° C can be from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25 ° C is preferably between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. Preferably, the one or more butters have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C. Preferably, the one or more butters have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.
Preferably, the butters or pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations.
For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments .
Concerning the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance (or butter) or wax previously heated at 80 ° C and taken under magnetic stirring using a spatula also heated is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. The cooling is ensured by the RCS heat exchanger 90. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol by being first brought to temperature at 20 ° C, then subjected to a first temperature run ranging from 20 ° C to 80 ° C. ° C, at the heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and subjected to a second temperature rise from -80 ° C C at 80 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the butter sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melted.
The liquid fraction by weight of the butter (or pasty fatty substance) at 25 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 25 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter. The enthalpy of melting of the butter or pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
The butter is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The butter is said to be in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form. The melting enthalpy of the butter is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a rise in temperature of 5 ° C. or 10 ° C. per minute, depending on the name ISO 11357-3: 1999. The melting enthalpy of the butter is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 25 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 25 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C is 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.
With regard to the measurement of the hardness, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: the composition according to the invention or the butter is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal past and control the crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80 ° C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then allowed to stabilize at 0 ° C for 60 minutes, and then temperature rise from 0 ° C to 20 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes. The compression force measurement is performed with Swantech TA / TX2I texturometer. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - mobile cylindrical steel 2 mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - Cylindrical 12 mm diameter steel for rigid raw materials. The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, and enters the composition according to the invention or the butter at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a third so-called withdrawal step where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and the energy of withdrawal of the probe (negative force) is recorded.
The value of the hardness measured in the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm 2 in contact with the butter or the composition according to the invention. The value of hardness obtained is expressed in mega-pascals or MPa.
The pasty fatty substance or butter may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.
The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines, silicone compounds polymers or non-polymers, such as high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes with alkyl or alkoxy side chains having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones, - polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, - polymers vinyl polymers, especially olefin homopolymers, olefin copolymers, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates, preferably having an alkyl group at C8-C30, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having alkyl groups the C 8 -C 30 homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, the liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols; esters and polyesters, and - their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particular butter or butters are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 15/06/2000, D01: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2 Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters).
There may be mentioned more particularly triglycerides C10-C18 (INCI name: C10-18 Triglycerides) having at a temperature of 25 ° C at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Fig) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia , Mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), Mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter ( Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Temifolia), pe butter grape pine (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (O / ea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (blend of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil) (INCI name: Jojoba esters) and ethyl esters of shea butter (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters), and mixtures thereof.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible solid fatty substances and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the dispersion according to the invention, in particular the integrity of the dispersion according to the invention and especially bark scattered drops, are not or not substantially altered by the addition envisaged.
Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 98.99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 70% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, and better still from 1% to 30% by weight. % to 20% by weight, of solid fatty substance (s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
Agent (s) dye (s)
In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "coloring agent" or "coloring agent" is intended to mean a material intended to give the dispersion or the composition comprising the said dispersion a coloration, and in particular a durable coloration. . By "coloring" is meant for example white, black, and any other color of the visible spectrum, such as blue, red, yellow ... optionally in iridescent, shiny or any other known forms.
In other words, the term "coloring agent" in the sense of the present invention, a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.
For the purposes of the present invention, a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from water-soluble or non-fat soluble or non-liposoluble, organic or inorganic coloring agents, optical effect materials, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one liposoluble coloring agent and therefore present in the dispersed fatty phase.
According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble coloring agent and therefore present in the aqueous continuous phase.
According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent in the aforementioned dispersed phase and at least one dye in the aforementioned continuous phase.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring agent" is intended to mean any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible and colorable solvents. In particular, it is intended to characterize, by the term water-soluble, the ability of a compound to solubilize in water, measured at 25 ° C., at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.
A coloring agent according to the invention is preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, liquid crystals and their mixtures.
According to one embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention is a pigment.
According to the invention, the pigments can typically be natural substances or syntheses consisting of fine particles which, in contrast to the dyes, are insoluble in their environment of use, as defined in particular in DIN 55944 (December 2011).
The pigments may be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).
The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lacquers and nacres.
According to the invention, the lacquers are typically dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole remaining essentially insoluble in the medium of use.
According to the invention, the pearlescent pigments are typically natural or synthetic substances, which diffract and reflect light to give an iridescent or shiny effect.
Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of metal oxides, in particular oxides of zirconium, cerium, zinc or chromium (Cl 77 288), titanium dioxide (Cl 77 891), black iron oxides, yellow , red and brown (Cl 77 499, Cl 77492, Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77 742), ultramarine blue (Cl 77 007), ferric blue (Cl 77 510), chromium hydrate ( Cl 77 289), silver powder, aluminum powder, carbon black (Cl 77 266), and mixtures thereof. For example, the inorganic pigments sold under the trademark Sunpuro® Titanium Dioxide (Cl 77891) from Sunchemical and Creasperse® Carmine (Cl 75470), Creasperse® Yellow (Cl 77492), Creasperse® Red (Cl 77491), Creasperse can be used. ® Black (Cl 77499) and Creasperse® White R (Cl 77891) from Créations Couleurs.
Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of cochineal carmine (Cl 75470), organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluoran, riboflavin (Lactoflavin), black dyes. bone or ivory (Cl 77267), beta-Carotene (Cl 75130), melanin pigments, and mixtures thereof.
Among the organic pigments are D & C Blue # 4, D & C Brown # 1, D & C Green # 5, D & C Green # 6, D & C Orange # 4, D & C # # 5, D & C Orange # 10, D & C Orange # 11, D & C Red # 6, D & C Red # 7, D & C Rech # 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30P & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33 , D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, SC Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, B & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6.
Lacquers are generally constituted by metal salts (in particular Al, Zr, Ca, Na) of organic dyes, adsorbed onto particles, for example alumina, barium sulphate, rosin, etc. Among the lacquers, mention may be made of those known under the names: D & C Red 21 (Cl 45,380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45,370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45,410), D & C Orange (Cl 45,425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45,430), D & C Red 7 (Cl 15,850: 1), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15,510), D & C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19,140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15,985), D & C Green 5 (Cl 61,570), D & C Yellow 10 (Cl 77,002), D &C; Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090), and mixtures thereof.
By "pearlescent pigment" or "nacre", for the purposes of the present application, is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, especially produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
Examples of nacres that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with a titanium oxide or an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye including the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.
The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of nacres that can be introduced as interference pigment in the first composition, mention may be made of gold-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.
According to one embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention is a dye.
According to the invention, the dyes are typically essentially soluble in their environment of use, as defined in particular in DIN 55944 (December 2011).
According to one embodiment, the dyes are selected from the group consisting of natural organic dyes, synthetic dyes and mixtures thereof.
Among the synthetic organic dyes, there may be mentioned halo-acid, azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane and fluoran dyes, and mixtures thereof. For example, D & C Red 17 (Cl 26100), D & C Green 6 (Cl 61565), D & C Purple 2 (Cl 60725), D & C Yellow 11 (Cl 47000), D & Blue 4 and FD & C Blue 1 (Cl 42090), the D & C Red 36 (Cl 12085), and mixtures thereof. As coloring agents that are suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4 (Cl: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na, Cl: 15850), DC Red 22 (Cl: 45380), DC Red 28 (Cl: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (Cl: 73360), DC Red 33 (Cl: 17200), DC Orange 4 (Cl: 15510) , FDC Yellow 5 (Cl: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (Cl: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (Cl: 45350 Na Salt), FDC Green 3 (Cl: 42053), DC Green 5 (Cl: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (Cl: 42090).
Some of these coloring agents are in particular approved for food. As representative of these dyes, mention may be made more particularly of the dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
Mention may also be made, as synthetic organic dyes, D & C RED # 17 K7007, Phat Blue DC 6204, Unicert Yellow K7064-J, Unicert Red K7057-J (Cl 17200) and Unicert. Blue 05601-J sold by Sensient.
Mention may also be made of the compounds sold under the names Unicert Orange K7003-J (Cl 45370), Unicert Green K7016-J (Cl 61565), Unicert violet K7014-J (Cl 60725) and Phat Green DC 7215 (Cl 47000 + Cl 61565). ## STR1 ## 61565 + Cl 26100 + Cl 60725 + Cl 47000), and Phat orange DC 2204. By way of non-limiting illustration of dye (s) of natural origin, mention may be made of extracts of carmine, cochineal, beetroot, grape , carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin. Mention may also be made of carminic acid, betanine, anthocyanins, enocyanines, lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthyn, capsorubine, flovoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthine, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof. It may also be copper sulphate, iron, water-soluble sulphopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium tartrazine salt and disodium fuschine salt.
According to one embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention is chosen from optically effective materials.
This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.
For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.
The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and - mixtures of said particles.
Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.
The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and coloring agents. liquid crystal.
According to one embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention is chosen from liquid crystals.
According to the invention, the term "liquid crystal" or "liquid crystal type dye" means liquid crystals dyeing the composition, that is to say providing a coloration to said composition as specified above. The liquid crystals are typically characterized by an intermediate state between the crystalline phase, where there is a three-dimensional positional order and the liquid phase where no order exists. the liquid crystal type coloring agents according to the invention advantageously make it possible to give an iridescent appearance to the composition.
According to one embodiment, the liquid crystals are cholesteric liquid crystals, which can in particular reflect the light in the visible spectrum, because of their helical structure. The colors perceived depend in particular on the angle of view and the pitch of the propeller.
According to the invention, the term "cholesteric liquid crystal" means any liquid crystal composed of chiral molecules. The "cholesteric phase with liquid crystals" included in the cholesteric liquid crystals has particular particular and unique properties of color. These properties are notably associated with the pitch of the helical domains which constitute the cholesteric liquid crystalline phase. More precisely, when the helical domains are of the same order of magnitude as the wavelength of visible light, the cholesteric liquid crystal has the ability to selectively reflect light by constructive interference. The cholesteric liquid crystal coloring agent can be a mixture of different liquid crystals including, for example, cholesterol-oleyl carbonate (cholesteryl oleyl carbonate), 3-chlorocholest-5-ene (cholesteryl chloride), cholest-5-ene -3-beta-yl nonanoate (nonanoate cholesterol), or mixtures thereof.
For example, the product sold commercially under the name LIQUID CRYSTAL BRIGHTS (Presperse Inc., NJ, USA) or LIPO CRYSTALS ™ (Lipo Chemicals Inc., NJ, USA). Mention may also be made of the products sold under the names PIGMENTED LIQUID CRYSTAL UC77, PIGMENTED LIQUID CRYSTAL UC99, UC10 LIQUID CRYSTAL, UC20 LIQUID CRYSTAL, UC30 LIQUID CRYSTAL, UC35 LIQUID CRYSTAL and UC50 LIQUID CRYSTAL, by LCR Hallcrest.
According to one embodiment, the coloring agents are rendered hydrophobic by a surface treatment with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the fatty phase. The coloring agents intended to be coated may be inorganic or organic pigments. The hydrophobic treatment agent for the pigments may be chosen from silicones such as meticones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.
Pigments having the following treatments are preferably used: - Aluminum Dimyristate & Triethoxycaprylysilane & Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, - Perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane & Aluminum hydroxide, - Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate & Lysine & Magnesium chloride, and / or - Disodium stearoyl glutamate & Aluminum hydroxide.
According to one embodiment, the dispersion according to the invention comprises from 0.00001% to 90% by weight, preferably from 0.00001% to 60%, preferably from 0.000025% to 40%, better still from 0, 0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.00025% to 10%, in particular from 0.0005% to 6%, and preferentially from 0.001% to 5% by weight of coloring agent (s) relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
In particular, when the coloring agent is a pigment, the aforementioned dispersion comprises from 0.005% to 30%, preferably from 0.007% to 6% by weight of pigment (s) relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
In particular, when the coloring agent is a dye, the above-mentioned dispersion comprises from 0.000025% to 5%, preferably from 0.0001% to 1% by weight of dye (s) relative to the total weight of said dispersion .
According to a particular embodiment, a coloring agent according to the invention is not represented by a dye.
In particular, when the coloring agent is chosen from liquid crystals, the above-mentioned dispersion comprises from 0.00001% to 90%, preferably from 0.0001% to 60%, better still from 0.001% to 30%, and in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight of liquid crystals relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
Additional compound (s)
According to the invention, the aqueous continuous phase and / or the fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous continuous phase can additionally comprise at least one additional compound, different (s) anionic and cationic polymers, oils, body solid fats and coloring agents mentioned above.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compound (s) and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the dispersion according to the invention are not or not substantially altered by the addition envisaged. Moreover, the nature and / or the amount of any additional compound (s) depends (s) on the aqueous nature or fat of the phase considered of the dispersion according to the invention. These adjustments are within the skill of the skilled person.
The dispersions according to the invention can thus additionally comprise powders, flakes, preservatives, humectants, stabilizers, chelators, emollients, modifying agents chosen from texturizing agents, viscosity agents (for example gelling agents). aqueous phase or fatty phase), pH, osmotic force and / or refractive index modifiers, etc ... or any usual cosmetic additive, and mixtures thereof.
The dispersions according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one biological / cosmetic active agent chosen from hydrating agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV-screening agents, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of macromolecular dermal and / or epidermal, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirants and / or anti-aging agents, and mixtures thereof.
The dispersions according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one perfuming agent.
Among the perfuming agents, mention may be made of any type of perfume or fragrance, these terms being used here indifferently. These perfumes or fragrances are well known to those skilled in the art and include, in particular, those mentioned, for example, in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in "Flavor and Fragrance Materials," 1991 (Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, III, USA). The perfumes used in the context of the present invention may comprise natural products such as extracts, essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, etc., as well as basic synthetic substances such as hydrocarbons, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, acetals, ketals, nitriles, etc., including saturated and unsaturated compounds, aliphatic, alicyclic and heterocyclic compounds.
The dispersions according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, may further comprise at least one preservative, and preferably a mixture of several preserving agents.
Among the preservatives, there may be mentioned phenoxyethanol, pentylene glycol and EDTA.
Preferably, the content by weight of preservative agent (s) is between 0.1% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, relative to the total weight of the dispersion according to the invention. invention.
According to one embodiment, the dispersions of the invention, in particular the aqueous continuous phase, comprise glycerine. Preferably, they comprise at least 5% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
Indeed, beyond the texture, the dispersions according to the invention provide another advantage over "conventional" emulsions because they allow the use of glycerin, moreover in high levels.
They may in particular comprise glycerin in a content greater than or equal to 10%, greater than or equal to 20%, greater than or equal to 30%, greater than or equal to 40%, or even up to 50%, by weight, by relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
Preparation process
The dispersions according to the invention can be prepared by different processes.
Thus, the dispersions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to be prepared according to a simple "non-microfluidic" method, namely by simple emulsification.
As in a conventional emulsion, an aqueous solution and a fat solution are prepared separately. It is the stirring addition of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase which creates the direct emulsion.
The emulsions according to the invention may also be prepared according to a microfluidic process, in particular as described in international applications WO 2012/120043 or WO 2015/055748.
According to this embodiment, the drops have a uniform size distribution. Preferably, the dispersions of the invention consist of a population of monodisperse drops, in particular such that they have a mean diameter D of from 500 μm to 3000 μm and a coefficient of variation Cv of less than 10%, or even less than 10%. 3%.
In the context of the present description, the term "monodisperse drops" means that the population of drops of the dispersion according to the invention has a uniform size distribution. Monodispersed drops have good monodispersity. Conversely, drops with poor monodispersity are said to be "polydispersed".
According to a mode, the average diameter D of the drops is for example measured by analysis of a photograph of a batch consisting of N drops, by an image processing software (Image J). Typically, according to this method, the diameter is measured in pixels, then reported in pm, depending on the size of the container containing the drops of the dispersion.
Preferably, the value of N is chosen greater than or equal to 30, so that this analysis reflects in a statistically significant manner the drop diameter distribution of said emulsion.
We measure the diameter Di of each drop, then we obtain the average diameter D by calculating the arithmetic mean of these values:
From these values D "one can also obtain the standard deviation σ of the diameters of the drops of the dispersion:
The standard deviation σ of a dispersion reflects the distribution of the diameters D, drops of the dispersion around the average diameter D.
Knowing the mean diameter D and the standard deviation σ of a dispersion, it can be determined that 95.4% of the population of drops is found in the range of diameters
and that we find 68.2% of the population in the meantime
To characterize the monodispersity of the dispersion according to this mode of the invention, the coefficient of variation can be calculated:
This parameter reflects the distribution of the diameters of the drops as a function of the average diameter thereof.
The coefficient of variation Cv of the diameters of the drops according to this mode of the invention is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 3%.
Alternatively, the monodispersity can be demonstrated by placing a dispersion sample in a bottle of constant circular section. A gentle stirring by rotating a quarter of a turn for half a second around the axis of symmetry through the bottle, followed by a rest of half a second is performed, before repeating the operation in the opposite direction, and this four times in a row.
The drops of the dispersed phase are organized in a crystalline form when they are monodispersed. Thus, they have a stack in a repeating pattern following in three dimensions. It is then possible to observe, a regular stack which indicates a good monodispersity, an irregular stack reflecting the polydispersity of the dispersion.
The presence in the fatty phase of solid fatty substance (s) at room temperature and pressure, as envisaged above, may require adjustments in the process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention. In particular, the process for preparing such a dispersion may comprise a heating step (between 40 ° C. and 150 ° C., in particular between 50 ° C. and 90 ° C.) of the phase before mixing / contacting said fatty phase with the aqueous phase and, where appropriate and in the case of a "non-microfluidic" process as mentioned above, the maintenance of this heating during stirring to obtain the desired emulsion.
These adjustments are within the general skills of those skilled in the art.
The solutions (or fluids) used to constitute the continuous aqueous phase and the dispersed fatty phase are respectively designated External Fluid (FE) and Internal Fluid (F1): the fluid F1 comprises at least one first precursor polymer of the coacervate, in particular a polymer cationic, and in particular amodimethicone and at least one oil and / or at least one solid fatty substance in particular as defined above, and in addition, optionally, and at least one coloring agent and / or at least one additional compound mentioned above, the fluid FE comprises at least water and at least a second precursor polymer of the coacervate, different from the first precursor polymer of the coacervate, in particular an anionic polymer, and in particular the carbomer, and in addition, optionally at least one coloring agent and / or at least one additional compound, or even a base, preservatives, and / or other water-soluble products such as glycerine, at least one of the fluids Fl and FE above comprising at least at least one coloring agent.
According to one embodiment, the process for preparing the dispersions of the invention comprises a step of forming the drops comprising: contacting a fluid FE and a fluid F1 as defined above; and the formation of drops of fatty phase, consisting of fluid F1, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase consisting of fluid FE, said drops comprising a bark insulating the heart of the drops of the fatty phase of the dispersion.
According to one embodiment where the dispersion is prepared according to a microfluidic process, the step of contacting the fluid FE and the fluid F1 as defined above may further comprise the presence of an intermediate fluid miscible with the fluid F1, as described in WO 2012/120043. This intermediate fluid is intended to form a film around the drop formed by the fluid Fl in the fluid FE. Thus, the intermediate fluid delays the diffusion of the first precursor polymer coacervate present in the Fl fluid until the intermediate fluid is mixed with the Fl fluid and thus ensures the formation of very stable drops stabilized by a very thin bark without obstruction of the microfluidic device.
According to one embodiment, the drop formation step may further comprise a step of injecting a solution for increasing the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase of the fluid FE. Preferably, the viscosity increasing solution is aqueous. This solution for increasing the viscosity is typically injected into the aqueous external fluid FE after formation of the dispersion according to the invention, and thus after formation of the drops.
According to one embodiment, the solution for increasing the viscosity comprises a base, in particular an alkaline hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide.
According to one embodiment, when the F1 comprises at least one fatty substance that is solid at ambient temperature and pressure as described above, the process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention may further comprise a step of heating the fluid F1, comprising the fatty phase of the dispersion, at a temperature of from 40 ° C to 150 ° C, preferably from 50 ° C to 9 ° C, prior to the above-mentioned step of forming the drops, and therefore before mixing / setting contacting said fatty phase with the continuous aqueous phase.
This embodiment, in the case of a "non-microfluidic" method as mentioned above, may require the maintenance of this heating step after mixing / contacting said fatty phase with the continuous aqueous phase during the stirring until the desired emulsion is obtained.
This embodiment, in the case where the emulsion is prepared according to a microfluidic process, is advantageous, in particular, in that it makes it possible to dispense with the presence of the intermediate fluid described above.
According to this embodiment, the method of preparation may further comprise, between the heating step and the step of forming the drops, a step of lowering the temperature of the fluid F1, if necessary to room temperature.
Uses The invention also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one dispersion (emulsion) according to the invention.
In a preferred manner, the emulsion according to the invention is directly usable, at the end of the above-mentioned preparation processes, as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition. The emulsion according to the invention, when prepared by means of a microfluidic process as described above, is also usable as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, after separation of the drops and redispersion of these in a second appropriate phase. The invention also relates to the use of an emulsion according to the invention for the preparation of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition.
The present invention thus also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one dispersion according to the invention, in combination with a physiologically acceptable medium.
In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is suitable for cosmetic applications, and that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, and more particularly the skin. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.
The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be, for example, a cream, an emulsion, a lotion, a serum, a gel and an oil for the skin (hands, face, feet, etc.), a foundation (liquid, paste ) a preparation for baths and showers (salts, foams, oils, gels, etc.), a hair care product (hair dye and bleach), a cleaning product (lotions, powders, shampoos), a care product for the hair (lotions, creams, oils), a styling product (lotions, lacquers, glossines), a product for shaving (soaps, foams, lotions, etc.), a product intended to be applied to the lips, a product solar, a tanning product without sun, a product for whitening the skin, an anti-wrinkle product. In particular, the cosmetic compositions of the invention may be an anti-aging serum, a youth serum, a moisturizing serum or a scented water.
The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, and more particularly the skin comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one dispersion or at least one layer of a cosmetic composition mentioned above.
The dispersions of the invention advantageously have stability properties similar to identical dispersions devoid of dye agent (s) in the aqueous continuous phase and / or the fatty dispersed phase, for example in the form of the dispersions described above. in WO 2012/120043.
The dispersions of dispersed drops according to the invention advantageously have viscosities compatible with easy handling of the product obtained.
The present invention also relates to the use of a dispersion or a cosmetic composition according to the invention, to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular to reduce wrinkles and fine lines.
Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "comprising one" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless the opposite is specified.
The expressions "between ... and ...", "from ... to ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive, unless otherwise specified.
The amounts of the ingredients in the examples are expressed as percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.
EXAMPLES
Raw materials
The dispersions exemplified below, unless otherwise indicated, are obtained by means of a preparation protocol implementing a microfluidic device, in particular as described in WO / 2012/120043 and WO / 2015/055748.
Example 1 Composition Comprising a Lipophilic Dye
The composition of Example 1 is an anti-aging serum. The composition of Example 1 consists of the following ingredients (see table below):
The composition of Example 1 is prepared according to the protocol described above.
The final composition comprises translucent pink fatty phase drops dispersed in a colorless aqueous gel.
Example 2 Composition Comprising a Water-Soluble Dye
The composition of Example 2 is a moisturizing serum. The composition of Example 2 consists of the following ingredients (see table below):
The composition of Example 2 is prepared according to the protocol described above. The final composition comprises translucent, colorless phase drops dispersed in a translucent pale blue aqueous gel.
Example 3 Composition Comprising a Pigment in the Aqueous Phase
The composition of Example 3 is a moisturizing serum. The composition of Example 3 consists of the following ingredients (see table below):
The composition of Example 3 is prepared according to the protocol described above. The final composition comprises droplets of colorless fatty phase dispersed in a blue glittery aqueous gel. The visual effect is disturbed and brilliant depending on the exposure to light.
Example 4 Composition comprising a pigment in the fatty phase
The composition of Example 4 is a scented water. The composition of Example 4 consists of the following ingredients (see table below):
The composition of Example 4 is prepared according to the protocol described above. The final composition comprises droplets of fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous gel, said drops having a visual "half-spheres" with the translucent, colorless upper part and the lower part colored pink / red opaque.
Example 5 Composition comprising a pigment in the fatty phase
The composition of Example 5 is a serum. The composition of Example 5 consists of the following ingredients (see table below):
The composition of Example 5 is prepared according to the protocol described above.
The final composition comprises drops of beige-colored fatty phase dispersed in a colorless translucent aqueous gel. The final rendering is opaque (matte).
Example 6 Composition Comprising a Pigment and a Dye
The composition of Example 6 is a youth serum. The composition of Example 6 consists of the following ingredients (see table below):
The composition of Example 6 is prepared according to the protocol described above. The final composition comprises translucent yellow-orange fatty phase drops dispersed in a golden glitter aqueous gel.
Example 7 Composition Comprising Liquid Crystals
The composition of Example 7 is a serum. The composition of Example 7 consists of the following ingredients (see table below):
The composition of Example 7 is prepared according to the protocol described above.
The final composition comprises drops of oily phase with an iridescent effect, and therefore a different visual according to the light, dispersed in a translucent aqueous gel colorless.

权利要求:
Claims (18)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
Dispersion containing a dispersed phase comprising drops and a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, in which the drops comprise at least one fatty phase and a bark, said bark comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one polymer cationic composition, said dispersion comprising from 0.00001% to 90% by weight of dye agent (s) present in the dispersed phase and / or in the continuous aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Dispersion containing a dispersed phase comprising drops and a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, in which the drops comprise at least one fatty phase and a bark, said bark comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one polymer cationic composition, said dispersion comprising at least one coloring agent present in the dispersed phase and / or in the continuous aqueous phase and selected from the group consisting of pigments, optical effect materials, in particular liquid crystals, and their mixtures.
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3. Dispersion according to claim 1 or 2, comprising from 0.00001% to 60%, preferably from 0.000025% to 40%, more preferably from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.00025% at 10%, in particular from 0.0005% to 6%, and preferably from 0.001% to 5%, by weight of coloring agent (s) relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cationic polymer is a silicone polymer modified with a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, such as amodimethicone.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the cationic polymer has the following formula: in which:

- R15 R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent OH or CH3; - R4 represents a group -CH2- or a group -X-NH- in which X is a divalent alkylene radical C3 or C4; x is an integer between 10 and 5000, preferably between 30 and 1000, and more preferably between 80 and 300; y is an integer between 2 and 1000, preferably between 4 and 100, and more preferably between 5 and 20; and - z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and better is equal to 1.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. Dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein each drop comprises from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, by weight of cationic polymer (s) , in particular amodimethicone (s), relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
The dispersion of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the anionic polymer is a polymer comprising monomer units having at least one carboxylic acid chemical function.
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein said dispersion comprises from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2%, and preferably from 0.10% to 0%. , 5%, of anionic polymer (s), in particular of carbomer (s), relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
The dispersion of any of claims 1 and 3 to 8, wherein the coloring agent is selected from the group consisting of pigments, colorants, optically active materials, particularly liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof. .
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. Dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the pigments are selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments, lacquers, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[11" id="c-fr-0011]
11. Dispersion according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 9, wherein the dyes are selected from the group consisting of natural organic dyes, synthetic dyes and mixtures thereof.
[12" id="c-fr-0012]
The dispersion of any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the liquid crystals are selected from the group consisting of cholesteric liquid crystals.
[13" id="c-fr-0013]
13. Dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the thickness of the bark of the drops is less than 1000 nm, in particular between 1 to 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm.
[14" id="c-fr-0014]
The dispersion of any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the average diameter of the drops of the dispersed phase is from 500 to 3000 μm.
[15" id="c-fr-0015]
15. Dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it does not comprise surfactant.
[16" id="c-fr-0016]
16. Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least one dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 15, in combination with a physiologically acceptable medium.
[17" id="c-fr-0017]
17. Non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one dispersion according to any one of Claims 1 to 15 or a layer of a cosmetic composition according to Claim 16.
[18" id="c-fr-0018]
18. Use of a dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 15 or a cosmetic composition according to claim 16, for improving the surface appearance of the skin, and in particular reducing lines and wrinkles.

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WO2018077986A1|2018-05-03|Double emulsions with double coacervate

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FR2984141A1|2013-06-21|Anhydrous cosmetic product e.g. lipstick, useful for making up and/or caring for lips, comprises first composition, which is solid and transparent composition, and second composition, which is solid and non-transparent composition

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WO2020141275A1|2020-07-09|Solid cosmetic composition containing anhydrous spheroids dispersed in a solid continuous aqueous phase

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FR3098113A1|2021-01-08|Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a fatty phase in the form of drops and aggregates

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EP3906008A1|2021-11-10|Solid cosmetic composition containing aqueous spheroids dispersed in a solid continuous anhydrous phase

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WO2019053236A1|2019-03-21|Dispersion with a dispersed fatty phase, having a high pigment content

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FR3082731A1|2019-12-27|DISPERSIONS COMPRISING MACROSCOPIC DROPS DISPERSED IN A CONTINUOUS PHASE INCLUDING REFLECTIVE PARTICLES

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FR3111813A1|2021-12-31|COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF A DERIVATIVE OF FATTY ACID DIMER, OF TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN, A VEGETABLE WAX AND A NON-VOLATILE POLAR OIL AND ITS APPLICATION

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FR3071730A1|2019-04-05|COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIQUID CONTINUOUS AQUEOUS PHASE AND A DISPERSE PHASE IN THE FORM OF DROPS

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FR3104424A1|2021-06-18|Aqueous composition comprising a cationic polymer, an anionic polymer, an anionic surfactant comprising at least one cationic counterion, a fatty phase and a pigment

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FR3104426A1|2021-06-18|Aqueous composition comprising a cationic cellulose polymer, an anionic surfactant comprising at least one cationic counterion, a fatty phase and a pigment

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WO2021234134A1|2021-11-25|Bark-free, stable double emulsion

同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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FR3041250B1|2019-01-25|

引用文献:

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公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

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EP0674942A1|1994-03-31|1995-10-04|Copigraph|Process for the production of hydroprobic liquid containing microcapsules with a high content of dry abstracts, thus obtained microcapsules and process for obtaining pressure sensitive paper therewith|

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US20060141046A1|2004-05-06|2006-06-29|Ivrea Pharmaceuticals, Inc.|Particles for the delivery of active agents|

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EP1657299A1|2004-11-12|2006-05-17|Cognis IP Management GmbH|Microcapsules|

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EP1808479A1|2005-12-16|2007-07-18|Cognis IP Management GmbH|Personal care composition|

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WO2012120043A2|2011-03-08|2012-09-13|Capsum|Method for forming drops of a first phase dispersed in a second phase substantially immiscible with the first phase|

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WO2015148892A1|2014-03-28|2015-10-01|Nusil Technology Llc|Dispersions containing encapsulated materials and compositions using same|FR3070858A1|2017-09-14|2019-03-15|Capsum|DISPERSION WITH DISPERSE PHASE HAVING A HIGH PIGMENTS CONTENT|

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FR3071730A1|2017-10-02|2019-04-05|Capsum|COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIQUID CONTINUOUS AQUEOUS PHASE AND A DISPERSE PHASE IN THE FORM OF DROPS|

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FR3082731A1|2018-06-26|2019-12-27|Capsum|DISPERSIONS COMPRISING MACROSCOPIC DROPS DISPERSED IN A CONTINUOUS PHASE INCLUDING REFLECTIVE PARTICLES|

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法律状态:
2016-07-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |

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2017-03-24| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20170324 |

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2017-06-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2018-08-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2019-08-22| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

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2020-08-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |

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2021-08-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1558848A|FR3041250B1|2015-09-18|2015-09-18|DISPERSIONS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE COLORING AGENT|

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FR1558848|2015-09-18|FR1558848A| FR3041250B1|2015-09-18|2015-09-18|DISPERSIONS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE COLORING AGENT|