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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a fluid anhydrous composition comprising in particular in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 20% of a silicone fatty phase and b) at least 5% of one or more lipophilic organic UV filters and c) at least one or more C2-C8 monoalcohols. The present invention also relates to the use of said composition for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and / or the scalp, in particular skincare products, sun protection, make-up products, perfumes.
    公开号:FR3040879A1
    申请号:FR1558396
    申请日:2015-09-10
    公开日:2017-03-17
    发明作者:Florence L'alloret；Marina Groc-Bidault；Pascal Arnaud
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    ANHYDROUS FILTERING COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY PHASE
    SILICONE
    The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising, in particular in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 20% of one or more silicone oils and b) at least 5% of one or more lipophilic organic UV filters and c) at least one or more C2-C8 monoalcohols.
    It is known that the luminous radiations of wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allow the browning of the human epidermis, and that the wavelength rays more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known under the name UV -B, cause erythema and skin burns that can affect the development of natural tanning. For these reasons as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of control of this natural tan to thereby control the color of the skin; it is therefore necessary to filter this UV-B radiation.
    It is also known that UV-A rays of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are capable of inducing an alteration thereof, especially in the case of a skin sensitive or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature cutaneous aging. They promote the triggering of the erythematous reaction or amplify this reaction in some subjects and may even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons such as the preservation of the natural elasticity of the skin for example, more and more people wish to control the effect of UV-A on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter the UV-A radiation.
    In order to ensure protection of the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, it is generally used antisolar compositions comprising organic filters, active in the UV-A and active in the UV-B.
    Numerous cosmetic compositions intended for the photoprotection (UV-A and / or UV-B) of the skin have been proposed to date. In particular, fluid formulations are sought which ensure easy application to the skin for users.
    Among the fluid sunscreen compositions heretofore proposed, anhydrous formulations such as solar oil are particularly sought after because of their easy and pleasant application on the skin and their good resistance to water. However, they are not widespread in the solar products market because it is difficult to obtain a sun protection factor greater than 10 and a UVA protection factor corresponding to the ratio required by the various product regulations. solar cells, especially greater than 3, preferably greater than 5.
    The sun protection factor (SPF) is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the exposure time required to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filter at the time necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without UV filter. It is evaluated in vivo in particular according to the International method published by Colipa / CTFA SA / JCIA (May 2006)
    To characterize protection against UV-A, the PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, which measures the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure of the skin to UV-A, is particularly recommended and used. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official testing procedure for UV-A labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin, Measurement Standards for UVA Protection Efficiency, Issued November 21, 1995 and Efective of January 1, 1996).
    The UVApPD protection factor (FP UVApPD) is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the UV-A radiation dose required to reach the UV filter pigmentation threshold (MPPDp) with the dose of UV-A radiation required to reach the UV-A level. Pigmentation threshold without UV filter (MPPDnp).
    Indeed, the main difficulties encountered in the manufacture of solar oils to try to increase the sun protection indices are to obtain both a fluid formula, transparent and stable having a pleasant cosmetic. In particular, compositions which have a little or no whitening effect on the skin during spreading and a non-tacky and non-glossy finish are required.
    In addition, consumers are increasingly looking for cosmetic products that spread easily and quickly on the skin in the form of a deposit that should not be thick but instead blend as much as possible with the support.
    It has already been proposed in application FR2236173 to use hydrocarbon oils in fluid sunscreen compositions in order to obtain high sun protection factors. These compositions do not have very good cosmetic properties.
    There is therefore a need to find new anhydrous, transparent and stable anhydrous solar compositions which make it possible to achieve higher sun protection and UVA factors and improved cosmetic properties.
    However, the Applicant has now discovered, surprisingly, that these objectives could be achieved with an anhydrous composition comprising in particular in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 20% by weight, preferably 22% by weight of a phase silicone fat with respect to the total weight of the composition, b) at least 5% of a lipophilic organic UV filter and c) at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol.
    This discovery is the basis of the present invention.
    The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous composition comprising in particular in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 20% by weight, preferably 22% by weight of a silicone fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition, b) at less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of one or more lipophilic organic UV filters, and c) at least one or more C2-C8 monoalcohols.
    It also relates to a cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or homogeneity of the complexion comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of a composition as defined above.
    It also relates to a cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of a composition as defined above. Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.
    By "cosmetically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), which can divert the consumer to use this composition.
    The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even less than 2% by weight of water, and in particular water-free, water n not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
    For the purposes of this application, the term "fatty phase" is intended to mean a fatty phase at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more fatty substances that are compatible with each other.
    For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "liquid fatty phase" means a liquid fatty phase at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more liquid fatty substances at ambient temperature. also called oils, compatible with each other.
    By "lipophilic" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological compound capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or to be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
    The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (20 to 25 ° C.).
    The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid, alcohol, silicone, amine, phenyl and / or amino acid groups.
    The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
    By "stable compositions" is meant compositions which after 1 month and preferably 2 months of storage at all temperatures between 4 ° C and 45 ° C show no macroscopic change in color, odor, viscosity as well as no variation of microscopic appearance. For certain fluid compositions of the invention, a sedimentation phenomenon can occur over time - a simple manual stirring of these compositions makes it possible to recover the initial homogeneity.
    In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions are fluid. For the purposes of the invention, the term "fluid composition" is intended to mean a composition which does not appear in a solid form and whose viscosity, measured using a Rheomat 180 viscometer at 25 ° C. at a rotation speed of 200 RPM after 30 seconds of rotation is less than 0.5 Pa.s and more preferably less than 0.2 Pa.s and more particularly ranging from 0.0001 Pa.s to 0.1 Pa.s.
    SILICONE FATTY PHASE
    The compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a silicone fatty phase.
    The silicone fatty phase preferably represents from 25 to 94% by weight and preferably from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The silicone fatty phase is preferably liquid.
    The silicone fatty phase comprises one or more silicone oils that can be volatile or non-volatile, preferably volatile.
    For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil (s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 '). 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm). of Hg).
    By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). .
    The nonvolatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, silicones phenyls such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and mixtures thereof;
    As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of <8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
    It is also possible to mention volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of general formula (I):
    where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
    Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 , 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or a ethyl group.
    Preferably, the composition comprises one or more volatile silicone oils and one or more nonvolatile silicone oils.
    The compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a silicone oil, preferably from 25 to 94% by weight and preferably from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The silicone fatty phase may also comprise additional silicones different from the silicone oils above, in particular silicone elastomers.
    Lipophilic ORGANIC UV Filters
    They may especially be chosen from para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, benzophenones and aminobenzophenones, anthranilic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, derivatives of benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenyl benzimidazole derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, bis-resorcinyl triazines, imidazoline derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives, merocyanines and mixtures thereof.
    Among the lipophilic organic UVA filters capable of absorbing UV from 320 to 400 nm, mention may be made of
    The dibenzoylmethane derivatives: 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane, sold under the name "Eusolex 8020" by the company Merck, and corresponding to the following formula:
    1- (4-methoxy-1-benzofuran-5-yl) -3-phenylpropane-1,3-dione, sold by the company QUEST under the name of Pongamol of formula:
    1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (2-hydroxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione of formula:
    - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE,
    The aminobenzophenones n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold under the trade name UVINUL A + "
    Anthranilic derivatives:
    Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN MA" by HAARMANN and REIMER,
    The 4,4-diarvlbutadiene derivatives: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene
    The preferential ones are:
    Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate
    Among the UVB organic lipophilic filters capable of absorbing UV radiation from 280 to 320 nm, mention may be made of
    Para-aminobenzoates:
    Ethyl PABA
    Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA
    Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (ESCALOL 507 from ISP)
    Salicylic derivatives: - Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries, - Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name "Neo Heliopan OS" by HAARMANN and REIMER, - Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL" by SCHER, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS" by Haarmann and REIMER,
    Cinnamates
    Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL MCX" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE,
    Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate,
    Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by HAARMANN and REIMER,
    Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,
    cinoxate,
    Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate Derivatives of β, β'-diphenylacrylate:
    Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by BASF,
    Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N35" by BASF,
    The benzylidene camphor derivatives: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD" by CHIMEX, Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX 6300" by MERCK,
    Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SW" by CHIMEX,
    Triazine derivatives:
    Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL T150" by BASF, 2,4,6-tris (4'-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine, 2,4-bis (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine, 2,4-bis (4'-amino benzoate), butyl) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine,
    Imidazoline derivatives:
    Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,
    Derivatives of benzalmalonate:
    Benzalmalonate functional polyorganosiloxanes such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE
    Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate,
    Merocvanine derivatives
    Octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate
    The preferential ones are:
    Homosalate Ethylhexyl Salicylate Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Octocrylene Ethylhexyl Triazone 2.4-Bis (N-Butyl 4'-amino-benzoate) -6- (Aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine, Octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4 -pentadienoate
    Among the broad-spectrum lipophilic organic filters capable of absorbing UVA and UVB, mention may be made of
    Benzophenone derivatives
    Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "UVINUL 400" by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D50" by BASF Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "UVINUL M40" by BASF,
    Benzophenone-5,
    Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid Benzophenone-10,
    Benzophenone-11,
    Benzophenone-12, Benzotriazole Derivatives:
    Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie Bumetrizole sold under the name TINOGUARD AS by CIBA-GEIGY
    Bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives
    Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "TINOSORB S" by CIBA GEIGY,
    Benzoxazole derivatives:
    2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V
    The preferential ones are:
    Benzophenone-3 Drometrizole Trisiloxane
    Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
    The lipophilic organic filters are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, more particularly 15% by weight. to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. MONOALCOOL IN C -C «
    The compositions of the invention comprise at least one monoalcohol containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
    The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more mono-alcohols).
    This monoalcohol can be represented for example by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to at 4 carbon atoms. As monoalcohol, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or n-butanol.
    According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise ethanol.
    The amount of monoalcohol (s) ranges from 1% to 30% by weight in the composition, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight and even more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
    The amounts by weight of monoalcohol (s) correspond to either the amount by weight of mono-alcohol if the composition comprises only one mono-alcohol or the total amount by weight of all mono-alcohols if the composition comprises a mixture of several mono-alcohols.
    ADDITIONAL OILS
    The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain one or more additional non-filtering oils which will preferably be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils.
    The additional oils may be volatile or nonvolatile and preferably volatile.
    The hydrocarbon oil (s) are preferably present in the composition of the invention at concentrations ranging from 5% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. at 25% by weight.
    As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triesters of glycerides, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can be have chain lengths varied from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company
    Dubois stearineries or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, (ii) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as in particular dialkyl ethers and in particular dicaprylyl ether; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof; (iv) synthetic esters such as, for example, oils of formula RCOOR 'in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 at 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R + R 'is> 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 alcohols benzoate. C15 as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by the company WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name "X- TEND 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octan oates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 di-alkyl tartrates, such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI by the company Enichem Augustus Industrial, and linear di-alkyl C14-C15 tartrates, such as those sold under the name name COSMACOL ETL by the same company; acetates, sebacates such as C1-C12 di-alkyl sebacates, in particular di-isopropyl sebacate. (v) branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; (vii) C4-C12 dialkyl carbonates, for instance dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by the company Cognis; (viii) fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 "from Ajinomoto and mixtures thereof.
    The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 6 -C 16 alkanes such as C 6 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, C8-C16 linear alkanes, for example the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (C13) marketed under the reference of CETIOL UT by the company Cognis and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, the branched esters of Cs-C16 and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile additional oils are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
    Among the hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, C 6 -C 6 alkanes, such as isododecane, synthetic esters, and especially diisopropyl sebacate, are more particularly preferred.
    According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions may comprise one or more surfactants preferably having a HLB of less than or equal to 5. "HLB less than or equal to 5" means a surfactant having 25 ° C is an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the sense of GRIFFIN less than or equal to 5. As is well known, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) is understood to mean the balance between the size and the strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and lipophilic group strength of the surfactant. The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
    The surfactants are preferably nonionic. In particular, the surfactants which are mentioned in the McCutcheons Emulsifiers &amp; Dertergents, International Edition 1998 and following.
    The surfactants of the invention may be chosen from oil-soluble surfactants and may belong to the following families: oxyalkylene (C2-C4) polydimethylsiloxane containing from 2 to 50 moles of alkylene oxide) that the polyoxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably 5 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide - the polyoxyalkylene alkyl esters or ethers (1 to 15 moles preferably of 1 to 5 moles) - The alkyl esters or ether of polyethylene glycol (1 to 50) glycosylated (1 to 10 moles) or not, alkyl esters or ether of glyceryl or poly glyceryl (1 to 10 moles), alkyl esters or sucrose ether, The pentaerythritol ester or alkyl esters, the alkyl ester or sorbitan ether, the ethoxylated cholesterol derivatives.
    By alkyl is meant one or more fatty chains, branched or unsubstituted or unsaturated, from Cs to C30.
    Examples of such HLB surfactants less than or equal to 5 are PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, sterareth 2, Beheneth 2, Oleth 2, sucrose distearate , glycerol mono oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, diglyceryl distearate, tetraglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl decastearate, diglyceryl monostearate, hexaglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, diethylene glycol monostearate, palmitic and stearic acid glycerol ester, polyoxyethylene 2 EO monostearate (having 2 oxyethylene units), glyceryl mono and dibehenate, tetrastearate of pentaerythritol.
    According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the surfactant used is PEG-10 dimethicone.
    Surfactants preferably having an HLB of less than or equal to 5 may be present in the compositions of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0 to , 5 to 2.5% by weight, and even more preferably 1% to 2%.
    According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions may comprise insoluble particles in the fatty phase, and without UV filtration property. These particles make it possible to obtain excellent sensory properties of the compositions after application to the skin. The nature of these particles may be chosen from silicone elastomers such as vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer marketed by Shin and Su under the name KSP100, Polymethylsilsesquioxanes, for example the methylsilsesquioxane resin microbeads sold under the name of Tospearl 145A by the company Momentive Performance Materials, the methylsilanol / silicate crosspolymer sold under the name NLK 506 by Takemoto Oil and Fat, nylon such as ORGASOL 2002 marketed by Arkema, polymethylmethacrylate and the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name Covabeads LH 85 by the company Sensient, talc, hydrophobized silica. Preferably, the compositions of the invention comprise silicone elastomer particles such as KSP 100 sold by Shin Et Su.
    The insoluble particles in the compositions of the invention may be present in the compositions of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight. weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 6%.
    According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise pigments such as titanium oxide or black, red or yellow iron oxide. These pigments make it possible to obtain color effects on the skin or correcting complexions.
    The pigment (s) may be present in the compositions of the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 6%.
    According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a fatty phase gelling compound such as a hydrophobic clay, a hydrophobized silica, a silicone elastomer, a C8-C30 alkyl acrylate type oil-gelling polymer. silicone polyamide, an alkyl palmitate, or a block polymer of the hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer type.
    As hydrophobic clays, let us mention the disteardimonium hectorite such as "Bentone 38 VCG", "Bentone Gel ISD V", "Bentone Gel IHD V" marketed by Elementis; also include stearalkonium hectorite such as "Bentone 27 V CG" sold by .Elementis.As hydrophobic silica, let us mention the aerosil R 972 marketed by Wacker or Evonik Degussa.
    As a silicone elastomer, mention may be made of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 marketed by the company Shin Et Su, the vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer such as the KSP 100 sold by Shin Et Su.
    As an oil-gelling polymer, mention may be made of ethylene diamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer such as OIeocraft LP-10-PA- (MV) sold by Croda, polyamide-8 such as Oleocraft LP-20- PA- (MV) sold by Croda, poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylate such as Intelimer IPA 13-6, Intelimer IPA 13-1 NG Polymer sold by Air Products &amp; Chemicals, nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymer such as Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant marketed by Dow Corning, dextrin palmitate such as rheopearl KL2-OR marketed by Chiba Flour Milling.
    Hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer block copolymers include Kratons G1701 EU SQR 1111 and G1657 MS 1111.
    The gelling compound of the fatty phase may be present in the compositions of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight. and even more preferably from 1% to 10%.
    According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the compositions will be transparent and will preferably have light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, greater than 10%, (This corresponds to an absorbance [abs = -log (transmittance)] less than 1.5), preferably greater than 30%, more preferably 50% and even more preferably greater than 70%.
    According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the compositions will have an SPF greater than or equal to 15, even greater than or equal to 20 and even greater than or equal to 30.
    According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the compositions will have a FP UVAppd greater than or equal to 5, they also comply with the European regulation including that the SPF / PPD ratio is less than 3.
    Additives
    The anhydrous composition of the invention may also contain various additives which may be soluble in the oily phase, or may be dispersed in the said oily phase, chosen in particular from lipophilic dyes, lipophilic active agents, lipophilic polymers, organic solvents and preservatives. insect repellents, essential oils, perfumes, emollients, propellants, fats, humectants, silicones.
    Examples of lipophilic cosmetic active agents that may be mentioned include antioxidants, keratolytic agents such as N-alkyl salicylic acids, for example N-octanoylsalicylic acid; vitamins such as vitamin E (tocopherol and derivatives), vitamin A (retinol and derivatives); softeners and any lipophilic active agent usually used in the care of the skin or hair.
    Additional lipophilic polymers that may be mentioned include block copolymers derived from styrene, such as styrene / ethylene-butylene / styrene copolymer, such as the product sold under the name Kraton G-1650E by Kraton Polymers. ; copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, such as the Acrylate / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone methacrylate copolymer sold under the name KP 561 P by the company Shin Etsu; Poly-C10-30-Alkyl Acrylates, such as the product sold under the name Interlimer IPA 13-1 by the company Landec
    Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially, not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged.
    Another object of the present invention is constituted by the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and / or or scalp, including skincare products, sunscreen products.
    The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as care product and / or sun protection and / or daily photoprotection and / or makeup, and / or capillary for the face and / or the body and / or the hair, preferably of liquid consistency.
    ADDITIONAL COLORING AGENTS
    According to another particular form of the invention, the compositions of the invention may comprise in addition one or more additional coloring agents.
    The additional coloring agents may also be chosen from synthetic or natural direct dyes. It can be organic or mineral dyes.
    Liposoluble, synthetic or natural organic dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, red Sudan, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.
    The additional coloring agents may also be chosen from particulate dyestuffs which are preferably chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents or interference pigments, and flakes.
    By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.
    The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxides, and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, the violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.
    Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D type pigments &amp; C, and lacquers based on carmine cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
    Mention may also be made of effect pigments such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic, natural or synthetic substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, said substrate being covered or not with metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide and their mixtures.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "interferential particles or pearlescent particles" designates any particle generally having a multilayer structure such that it allows the creation of a color effect by interfering with the light rays which diffract and diffuse differently according to the nature layers. The coloring effects obtained are related to the lamellar structure of these particles and derive from the physical laws of thin film optics (see: Pearl Luster Pigments - Physical principles, properties, applications - R. Maisch, M. Weigand, Verlag Moderne Industrie ). Thus, these particles may have varying colors depending on the angle of view and the incidence of light.
    Within the meaning of the present invention, a multilayer structure means indifferently designating a structure formed of a substrate covered with a single layer or a structure formed of a substrate covered with at least two or even more consecutive layers.
    The multilayer structure may thus comprise one or even two layers, each layer, whether or not independent of the other layer (s), being made of at least one material selected from the group consisting of the materials MgF 2, CeF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, S 2 O 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. Generally, the multilayer structure is of inorganic nature.
    More particularly, the interference particles considered according to the invention may be interferential pigments, or natural or synthetic nacres, monolayers or multilayers, in particular formed of a natural substrate based on, inter alia, mica and which is coated with one or more metal oxide layers.
    The interferential particles according to the invention are characterized in that 50% of the mass population has a diameter (d50) of less than 40 μm, more particularly less than 30 μm, in particular less than 20 μm, and in particular less than 15 μm, measured by a laser granulometer, such as Malvernet's Mastersizer 2000® or Broockhaven Instrument Corporation's BI90 + ®.
    Mica / tin oxide / titanium oxide mother-of-pearl such as those marketed under the names TIMIRON SILK BLUE®, TIMIRON SILK RED®, TIMIRON SILK GREEN®, TIMIRON SILK GOLD® are particularly suitable for the invention. and TIMIRON SUPER SILK® proposed by MERCK and nacres mica / iron oxide / titanium oxide such as for example FLAMENCO SATIN BLUE®, FLAMENCO SATIN RED® and FLAMENCO SATIN VIOLET® and FLAMENCO ORANGE 320C offered by the company ENGELHARD and their mixtures.
    More specifically, these pigments may be present in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Compositions
    The compositions according to the invention are preferably vaporizable (and / or sprayable by means of devices well known to those skilled in the art.
    The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a vaporizable oil applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. The latter are for example described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (forming an integral part of the content of the description).
    These compositions may also be impregnated on wipe-type supports, or they may be packaged as vial lotions with a reducing agent.
    The aerosol-conditioned compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Concrete but non-limiting examples illustrating the invention will now be given.
    Examples:
    Examples 1 to 3
    The anhydrous formulations were prepared: The amounts are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The procedure of compositions 1 to 3 is as follows:
    Phase A is prepared by mixing the raw materials with mechanical stirring at 80 ° C .; Phase B is prepared by mixing the raw materials with mechanical stirring at room temperature; the solutions obtained are macroscopically homogeneous. Phase A is cooled with slow stirring at 40 ° C; then phase B is added by slow introduction into phase A with stirring using a COS 1000 type homogenizer under a stirring speed of 4000 RPM for 15 minutes. The homogeneous solution obtained is cooled with stirring at room temperature. The resulting solution is homogeneous, fluid and transparent. The viscosity of the compositions 1, 2 and 3 at 25 ° C. is equal to 0.01 Pa.s (Measurement carried out using a Rhéomat 180 (Société LAMY), equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS- R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 selected according to the consistency of the composition, rotating at a rotation speed of 200 t.min-1).
    Stability and gloss after application of these 3 compositions were evaluated. Gloss evaluation mode after application
    The composition to be evaluated is applied to a contrast plate at a rate of 6 mg / cm 2: the formula is deposited using a micropipette and then spread very rapidly on a circular surface of radius 1 cm with a fingerstall to distribute it. very uniform way. The resulting film is dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C. (humidity level 50% RH)
    The glossy character of the film obtained is evaluated using a BYK Gardner type micro-glass meter 60 °. Results
    TABLE I
    These results show that only the composition according to the invention comprising at least one lipophilic filter system at a level greater than or equal to 5%, at least 20% of a silicone fatty phase and at least one monoalcohol is stable and has excellent results. cosmetic properties and in particular a low gloss effect after application.
    Finally, the composition of the invention described in Example 1 is stable, has good photoprotective properties with an in vivo SPF level of about 42 and a water remanence equal to 52.7%. The composition of Example 1 also has excellent cosmetic properties after application with no bleaching effect of the skin and no sticky feel.
    These oils are storage stable after 2 months at different temperatures (4, 25, 45 ° C). They have the advantage of being vaporizable in the form of very fine mist without aerosol.
    Transparency measure:
    The transmittance of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 is approximately 95%, according to the protocol described above.
    Example 4 and 5
    The following compositions were prepared:
    The composition 4 is in the form of an opalescent serum with high SPF (SPF in vivo 50) and leading to a non-sticky film after application to the skin.
    Composition 5 is in the form of a product CC of texture "shaka shaka" (fluid texture known in Asia, which applies after stirring to ensure the homogeneity of the composition) whose SPF is high (SPF in vivo 50) and leading to a non-sticky film after application to the skin with complexion-correcting properties.
    Example 6
    The following composition was prepared:
    The composition 6 is in the form of an opalescent gel with a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. of 0.366 Pa.s (Measurement carried out using a Rhéomat 180 (Société LAMY), equipped with a mobile MS- R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 selected according to the consistency of the composition, rotating at a speed of rotation of 200 t.min-1).
    Applied to the skin, the composition is non-sticky and non-glossy.
    权利要求:
    Claims (16)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    An anhydrous composition comprising: a) at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a silicone fatty phase, b) at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of one or more lipophilic organic UV filters and c) at least one or more C2-C8 monoalcohols.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone fatty phase is present in an amount greater than 22% by weight, preferably 25 to 94% by weight and preferably 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the silicone fatty phase comprises one or more volatile or non-volatile silicone oils.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the silicone fatty phase comprises one or more volatile silicone oils chosen from octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane. hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the silicone fatty phase comprises one or more non-volatile silicone oils chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or in silicone chain end, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and mixtures thereof ;
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the lipophilic organic filter or filters are chosen from para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, benzophenones and aminobenzophenones, anthranilic derivatives. , derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, derivatives of β, β-diphenylacrylate, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenyl benzimidazole derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, bis-resorcinyl triazines, imidazoline derivatives, derivatives benzalmalonate, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives, merocyanines and mixtures thereof.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the lipophilic organic filter or filters are present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more particularly ranging from 15 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the C 2 -C 8 mono-alcohols are selected from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and n-butanol and preferably ethanol.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the amount of mono-alcohol (s) ranges from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight and more more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is transparent and preferably have a transmittance of light, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample of 1 cm thick, greater than 10%, preferably greater than 30%, better 50% and even more preferably greater than 70%.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it has an SPF greater than or equal to 15, even greater than or equal to 20 and even greater than or equal to 20.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it has an FP UVAppd greater than 5 and / or an SPF / PPD ratio of less than 3.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it further comprises one or more cosmetic adjuvants chosen from lipophilic dyes, lipophilic active agents, lipophilic polymers, organic solvents, preservatives, insect repellents, essential oils, perfumes, emollients, propellants, fats, humectants, silicones.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 for the manufacture of product products for the cosmetic treatment of skin, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or leather hair, including skin care products and / or sunscreen and / or daily photoprotection and / or makeup, and / or capillary for the face and / or body and / or hair.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or uniformity of the complexion, comprising applying to the skin surface at least one composition as defined in any one of the claims. 1 to 13.
    [16" id="c-fr-0016]
    16. Cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of the keratin material of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    EP3346976A1|2018-07-18|
    US20180311141A1|2018-11-01|
    FR3040879B1|2017-10-13|
    WO2017042227A1|2017-03-16|
    KR20180045007A|2018-05-03|
    JP2018526449A|2018-09-13|
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    JP2016502611A|2012-11-21|2016-01-28|ダウ コーニング コーポレーションＤｏｗ Ｃｏｒｎｉｎｇ Ｃｏｒｐｏｒａｔｉｏｎ|Fabric care composition comprising an emulsion|FR3085271B1|2018-08-30|2021-10-29|Naos Inst Of Life Science|HIGH REMANENCE WASHING AND SUN PROTECTION COMPOSITION|
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    法律状态:
    2016-08-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2017-03-17| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20170317 |
    2017-08-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2018-08-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2019-08-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2021-06-11| ST| Notification of lapse|Effective date: 20210506 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1558396A|FR3040879B1|2015-09-10|2015-09-10|ANHYDROUS FILTERING COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILICONE FATTY PHASE|FR1558396A| FR3040879B1|2015-09-10|2015-09-10|ANHYDROUS FILTERING COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILICONE FATTY PHASE|
    KR1020187008951A| KR20180045007A|2015-09-10|2016-09-07|Aqueous screening composition comprising silicone lipid phase|
    US15/756,288| US20180311141A1|2015-09-10|2016-09-07|Anhydrous screening composition comprising a silicone fatty phase|
    JP2018530966A| JP2018526449A|2015-09-10|2016-09-07|Anhydrous shielding composition comprising a silicone lipid phase|
    PCT/EP2016/071103| WO2017042227A1|2015-09-10|2016-09-07|Anhydrous screening composition comprising a silicone fatty phase|
    EP16763022.7A| EP3346976A1|2015-09-10|2016-09-07|Anhydrous screening composition comprising a silicone fatty phase|
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