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    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, one or more fatty alcohols, one or more non-associative nonionic cellulosic polymers, and one or more nonionic associative polymers. It also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using this composition.
    公开号:FR3039764A1
    申请号:FR1557455
    申请日:2015-08-03
    公开日:2017-02-10
    发明作者:Ly Lan Nguyen；Emilie Surault
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant, a fatty alcohol, and two nonionic polymers
    The present invention relates to a composition comprising a combination of at least one cationic surfactant, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one non-associative nonionic cellulosic polymer and at least one nonionic associative polymer, its use for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials and a cosmetic treatment method using this composition.
    In the field of the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, especially human fibers, and better hair, it is sought to treat keratinous fibers subjected to various external aggressions. Indeed, these fibers can undergo assaults of various origins, such as mechanical aggression, for example related to disentangling or blow drying, or chemical aggression, for example following a coloring or a permanent.
    These attacks have repercussions on the qualities of the keratinous fiber and can induce a difficult disentangling at the time of the washing of the hair, on dry hair and / or wet hair as well as a degradation of the surface properties of the fibers, which become on the surface not smooth and irregular, especially when the hair is dry.
    There are care products that can limit these phenomena. These products contain, in general, one or more agents for conditioning keratinous fibers, such as cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols, silicones, etc. However, some of these conditioning agents, such as fatty alcohols, which also make it possible to thicken the texture of the hair care and to obtain a good effect "on the surface" with the application, limit the deposits of the conditioning agents on the hair.
    This disadvantage is particularly observed with the combination described in European Patent Application No. 1,088,543, comprising a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant and at least one associative polymer.
    There is therefore a need to develop compositions for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials which make it possible to overcome the aforementioned drawbacks, and to obtain good qualities of use such as easy and homogeneous distribution, an effect " on the surface "on application" (that is to say, a feeling of creamy and rich texture that coats the hair well) while maintaining very good cosmetic properties due in particular to an optimization of the hair deposits of conditioning agents present in the formula, especially fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants.
    The applicant has now discovered that the combination of at least one cationic surfactant, at least one fatty alcohol, and a particular thickening system comprising at least two polymers of a particular nature makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above. . The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, one or more fatty alcohols, one or more non-associative nonionic cellulosic polymers, and one or more nonionic associative polymers.
    This composition has improved use qualities such as easy and homogeneous distribution, a "surface" effect on application, while leading to an improvement of the hair deposits of the conditioning agents present in the formula, in particular fatty alcohols, cationic surfactants and optionally silicones if present. In particular, the compositions according to the invention lead to very good levels of performance in terms of disentangling, flexibility and smoothing.
    The subject of the present invention is also a process for cosmetic treatment, and more particularly for conditioning keratin materials, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as the hair, comprising the use of the composition according to the invention.
    Another subject of the invention consists in the use of a composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular human keratinous fibers, and more particularly hair. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.
    In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...". The expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
    According to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises: (a) one or more cationic surfactants, (b) one or more fatty alcohols, (c) one or more non-associative nonionic cellulosic polymers and (d) one or more associative polymers nonionic surfactants.
    The cationic surfactant or surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, in particular, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, and / or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example: - those corresponding to the following general formula (I):
    (I) wherein the groups Rs to Ru, which may be the same or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of Rs to Ru groups having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and X 'is an anion selected from the group of the halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl. C4) arylsulphonates.
    The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
    The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C2-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12-C22) acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl, X "is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl. C4) arylsulphonates.
    Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or else palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (II) below:
    (Π) wherein R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow,
    R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
    R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
    R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X 'is an anion selected from the group of halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyls; ) sulfates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyls or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates
    Preferably, R12 and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO. the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (III) below:
    (III) wherein R 18 denotes an alkyl group having from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
    R 17 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH 2) 3 -N + (R 16a) (R 17a) (R 18a),
    Riea, Ri7a, Risa, Ris, R19, R20 and R2i, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X 'is an anion chosen from the group of halides, as chloride, bromide and iodide, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate.
    Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75). quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of formula (IV) below:
    (IV) wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl, R23 is selected from: - the group
    the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups R 1 - hydrogen atom, R-25 is chosen from: - the group
    the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based R 29 groups, the identical or different hydrogen atom, R 24, R 26 and R 28, are chosen from linear or branched C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups; , saturated or unsaturated, r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, r 1 and t 1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, r 2 + r 1 = 2 r and t 1 + t 2 = 2 t , y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, which are the same or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X 'is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29
    The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
    Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
    Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
    When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
    When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
    Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated.
    Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.
    Advantageously, y is 1.
    Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are 2. The anion X 'is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl (Ci -C4) sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl- or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X 'is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.
    In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (IV) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from: • the group
    · The methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, and · the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from: • the group
    The hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from C13 alkyl and alkenyl groups; -C17, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
    Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
    Examples of the compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different.
    These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification. of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate. ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol.
    Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
    The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. By way of examples of such compounds, mention may be made of distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium or dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and in particular the methosulphates.
    It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
    It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, proposed by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
    Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
    Among the cationic surfactants, those of formula (I) are more particularly preferred, such as cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
    The cationic surfactant (s) is or are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0 to 10% by weight. , 5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol" is understood to mean an alcohol comprising in its main chain at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
    They are not glycerolated nor polyoxyalkylenated.
    They can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
    They preferably have the R-OH structure in which R denotes a linear or branched Cs-3o, preferably C10-22 or better C12-24 alkyl or alkenyl group, R being capable of being substituted with one or more groups. hydroxy.
    The fatty alcohols can be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa).
    The term "liquid fatty alcohol" is intended to mean a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa).
    The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.
    Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.
    The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When more than one double bond is present, it is preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated.
    These unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
    They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.
    The liquid fatty alcohols preferably have the R'-OH structure in which R 'denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl or linear or branched C12-C24 alkenyl group, R being capable of being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
    Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol of the invention is a branched saturated alcohol.
    Preferably, R 'does not contain a hydroxyl group.
    The term "non-liquid" preferably means a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C. and a shear rate of 1 s -1.
    Non-liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated alcohols, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
    Preferably, the non-liquid fatty alcohols are of structure R "-OH with R" denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 30, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
    The non-liquid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated (mono) alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohol that may be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, isoketyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol, cetyl alcohol, alcohol stearyl, cetylstearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
    Preferably, it is possible to use a fatty alcohol chosen from 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, oleic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
    More particularly, the fatty alcohols are chosen from non-liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), more preferably from cetyl or stearyl alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
    The fatty alcohol or alcohols are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition.
    The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-associative nonionic cellulosic polymer.
    By cellulosic polymer is meant according to the invention any polysaccharide polymer having in its structure sequences of glucose residues united by beta -1,4 bonds.
    According to the invention, the term "non-associative cellulosic polymer" means that the cellulosic polymers do not comprise a C8-C30 fatty chain. The non-associative nonionic cellulosic polymers according to the invention may be chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkyls. such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkyl (Ci-C4) celluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed celluloses hydroxyalkyl (Ci-C4) alkyl (Ci-C4) celluloses, such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses, and hydroxbutyl-methylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.
    More preferably, the non-associative nonionic cellulosic polymer (s) are chosen from hydroxyalkyl (Ci-C4) celluloses and in particular hydroxyethylcelluloses.
    The non-associative nonionic cellulosic polymer or polymers used in the composition of the invention are present in a total amount ranging preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight and better still ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic associative polymer.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises in its chemical structure, at least one zone, or group, hydrophilic and at least one zone, or group, hydrophobic.
    By "hydrophobic zone or group" is meant a hydrocarbon group or a hydrocarbon-based polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. When it refers to a hydrocarbon group, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrophobic group comes from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol or a polyalkylene fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.
    Hereinafter "fatty chain" is intended to mean a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, preferably alkyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms.
    The nonionic associative polymers that can be used in the invention are preferably chosen from: (1) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain. By way of example, mention may be made of: hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C16 alkyl) or POLYSURF 67 CS sold by the company ASHLAND, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL, the hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol ether groups of Cs-C22) phenol, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol. (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 ( C20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie. (3) inulins modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the alkyl carbamate inulins and in particular the lauryl carbamate inulin sold by the company Orafti under the name INUTEC SPI. (4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic monomers with a fatty chain, which may be mentioned by way of example: the ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company LS.P. products ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company ES.P. (5) copolymers of methacrylates or of C1-C6 alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208. (6) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer. (7) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences most often polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences. (8) polymers having an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one fatty chain, such as PE1RE THIX compounds proposed by the company SEID-CHEMIE.
    The nonionic associative polymer or polymers are preferably chosen from celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain of the family (1), in particular hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as groups alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, or mixtures thereof, and wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, and polyether polyurethanes of the family (7). Preferably, the nonionic associative polymer (s) are chosen from polyether polyurethanes of the family (7).
    Preferably, the associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers according to the invention comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or end chains. hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
    The polyether polyurethanes may be multiblocked, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic sequences may be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers may also be graft or star.
    The nonionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.
    By extension are also included among the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers, those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic blocks by other chemical bonds. As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of the urea-functional Rheolate 205 sold by the company ELEMENTIS or else the Rheolates 208, 204 or 212, as well as the Acrysol RM 184.
    Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210 with a C12-C14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212 with a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO.
    The product DW 1206B from ROHM & HAAS C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, proposed at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.
    It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of RHEOLATE 255, RHEOLATE 278 and RHEOLATE 244 sold by the company ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and the DW 1206J proposed by the company ROHM & HAAS.
    The polyether polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380, 389 (1993).
    In one variant, an associative nonionic polyether polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylene stearyl alcohol comprising 100 moles of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.
    Ein such polymer is in particular proposed by the company ELEMENTIS under the name RHEOLATE FX 1100 ® which is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) having a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 30,000 (name INCE PEG-136 / STEARETH-100 / HDI COPOLYMER).
    In another variant, it is also possible to use a polyether polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
    Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46, ACULYN 44 [ACULYN 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol (PEG) containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
    Preferably, the associative polymers as described above, have a number-average molecular weight of less than 500,000 and even more preferentially less than 100,000, preferably ranging from 5,000 to 80,000, which can be measured by methods such as cryoscopy, osmotic pressure, ebullioscopy, titration of terminal groups.
    Preferably, the nonionic associative polymer used in the composition according to the invention is a nonionic associative polymer chosen from the associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers (family (7)), in particular those obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate .
    Even more particularly, the non-ionic associative polymer (s) used in the invention is or are chosen from polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of oxide. ethylene, decyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) sold under the name ACULYN 44, polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis ( 4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI) sold under the name ACULYN 46, and mixtures thereof.
    The nonionic associative polymer or polymers used in the composition of the invention are present in a total amount ranging preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.02 to 5% by weight and even more preferably ranging from from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio between the total amount of non-associative nonionic cellulosic polymer (s) and the total amount of nonionic associative polymer (s) (s) ranges from 0.1 to 20, better from 1 to 15 and even more preferably from 2 to 5.
    The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more silicones, preferably amines.
    By "amino silicone" is meant any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
    Preferably, the amino silicone or silicones used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise in their structure at least 4 silicon atoms.
    In what follows, silicone is meant, in accordance with the general acceptance, any organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or by polycondensation of silanes. suitably functionalized, and essentially constituted by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups, being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon groups are alkyl groups, especially C 1 -C 10, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl groups whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 10, aryl groups and in particular phenyl.
    The amino silicones used in the composition according to the present invention may be chosen from: (a) the compounds corresponding to the following formula (V):
    wherein: T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH), or C 1 -C 6 alkyl, and preferably methyl, or C 1 -C 5 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a is the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 1 to 10, R1 is a monovalent group of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the groups: -N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 2) 2, -N (R 2) 2, -n + (r 2 ) 3 q-, -N + (R2) (H) 2 Q ', -n + (r2) 2hq-, -N (R2) -CH2-CH2-N + (R2) (H) 2 q-, in which R2 can designate a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group, for example a group C1-C20 alkyl, and Q 'represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
    In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (V) are chosen from compounds corresponding to the following formula (VI):
    (VI) in which R, R ', R ", identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy, or OH, A represents an alkylene group , linear or branched, C3-C8, preferably C3-C6, m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
    According to a first possibility, R, R 'and R ", which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the The compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone".
    According to a second possibility, R, R 'and R ", which are identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the R or R" groups is an alkoxy group and A represents an alkylene group. in C3. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
    In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the Belsil®ADM 652 product marketed by WACKER.
    According to a third possibility, R and R ", each different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R and R" being an alkoxy group, R 'representing a methyl group and A representing a C3 alkylene group. The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is preferably between 1 / 0.8 and 1 / 1.1, and advantageously is equal to 1 / 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
    More particularly, mention may be made of FluidWR® 1300, sold by the company Wacker.
    Note that the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem columns, eluent THF, flow rate of 1 mm / m, 200 μΐ of a 0.5% solution is injected by weight of silicone in THF and the detection is carried out by refractometry and UV-metry).
    A product corresponding to the definition of the formula (V) is in particular the polymer referred to in the CTFA dictionary "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", corresponding to the following formula (VH):
    (VII) wherein n and m have the meanings given above according to formula (V).
    Such compounds are described, for example, in EP 95238. A compound of formula (V) is, for example, sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI. (b) the compounds of formula (VIII) below:
    (VIII) wherein: R3 represents a C1-C18 monovalent hydrocarbon group, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl, R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, especially an alkylene group; C 1 -C 18 or divalent C 1 -C 18 alkyleneoxy, for example C 1 -C 5, Q 'is a halide ion, in particular chloride, r represents a mean statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8, s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.
    Such compounds are described more particularly in US Patent 4185087.
    A compound in this class is that sold by UNION CARBIDE under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56". c) quaternary ammonium silicones, in particular of formula (IX):
    in which: R-7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 18 alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl, R-6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy group connected to Si by an Si-C bond ,
    Rs, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a -R6 group -NHCOR7, X 'is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, ...), r represents a mean statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 to 100.
    These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974. d) the amino silicones of formula (X):
    (X) in which: R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, each denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group; R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group; is an integer varying from 1 to 5, - m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g.
    When these compounds are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use together with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants. By way of example, it is possible to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 939" by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylketylammonium chloride and a nonionic surface, of formula C13H27- (OC2H4) 12-OH, known under the name CTFA "trideceth-12".
    Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the company Dow Corning, comprising in combination the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (VII) described above, a non-surfactant ionic compound of formula: C8H17-C6H4- (OCH2CH2) 40-OH, known under the name CTFA "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of formula: CnFUs-iOCFU-CFU ^ -OH, known under the name CTFA "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.
    Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG 1 sold by the company Wacker, comprising, in the form of a microemulsion, an amodimethicone of formula (VI) in combination with trideceth-5 and the trideceth-10.
    It is also possible to use the product sold under the trade name Xiameter MEM 8299 emulsion by Dow Corning. Other amino silicones can be used in the context of the invention as the product referenced in the CTFA dictionary under the name POLYSILICONE-9.
    Preferably, the amino silicone or silicones used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from amino silicones corresponding to formula (V), and even more particularly from amino silicones of formulas (VI) or (VII).
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an amino silicone, better still a non-phenylated amino silicone.
    When the amino silicone or silicones are present in the composition according to the invention, their amount preferably varies from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.5% by weight. at 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additives chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, nonionic polymers different from those described above, nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, water-soluble and fat-soluble sunscreens, pearlescent and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, solubilizing agents, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, agents antiseborrheic agents, agents for preventing and / or regrowing hair, penetrating agents, perfumes, peptizers and preserving agents, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.
    These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
    The compositions according to the invention may be present, in a nonlimiting manner, in the form of a form of care to be applied if necessary before and / or after shampooing, of coloring products, of discoloration, of permanent, of straightening, of capping.
    The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, and more particularly the conditioning, of keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers and in particular hair, which comprises the application to said materials of an effective amount of a composition such as as described above.
    This application may or may not be followed by rinsing.
    When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.
    Whether rinsed or non-rinsed mode, the application of the composition can be done with or without heat. The heater may be a hair dryer, a helmet, a round or flat iron. The heating temperature can be between 40 and 220 ° C.
    The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the conditioning of the hair, or as hair care products. As examples of care products, there may be mentioned after-shampoos, masks, care not rinsed. The invention is illustrated by the following example.
    Example
    The composition according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts indicated are expressed in% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
    After preparation of the composition, it was applied to hair.
    权利要求:
    Claims (15)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more cationic surfactants, (b) one or more fatty alcohols, (c) one or more non-associative nonionic cellulosic polymers, and (d) one or more nonionic associative polymers. .
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the cationic surfactant (s) is (are) chosen from those corresponding to the following general formula (I):

    (I) wherein the groups Rs to Ru, which may be the same or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of Rs to Ru groups having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and X 'is an anion selected from the group of the halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl. C4) aryl-sulphonates, preferably from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the (s) surfactant (s) cationic (s) is or are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0 to , 1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol or alcohols are chosen from alcohols which are not liquid at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10 5 Pa), better still cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohols, and their mixtures.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol or alcohols are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight. more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) cellulosic polymer (s) nonionic (s) non-associative (s) are chosen from hydroxyalkyl (Ci-C4) celluloses and in particular hydroxyethyl celluloses.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) cellulosic polymer (s) nonionic (s) non-associative (s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 at 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) associative polymer (s) nonionic (s) are chosen from celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in in particular hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, and polyether polyurethanes;
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) associative polymer (s) nonionic (s) is) or are chosen from polyether polyurethanes, preferably from polyethers. associative nonionic polyurethanes obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) associative polymer (s) nonionic (s) ^) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.02 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total amount of cellulosic polymer (s) nonionic (s) non-associative) and that of associative polymer (s). non-ionic (s) ranges from 0.1 to 20, better from 1 to 15 and even more preferably from 2 to 5.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more amino silicones.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the amino silicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Process for the cosmetic treatment and more particularly for the conditioning of keratinous substances, in particular human keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising the application to said materials of an effective amount of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. .
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular human keratinous fibers, and more particularly human hair, and particularly for the conditioning of the hair, or in particular as hair care products.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3039764B1|2018-08-24|
    EP3331616A1|2018-06-13|
    WO2017021444A1|2017-02-09|
    CN107921294A|2018-04-17|
    US20180228718A1|2018-08-16|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    EP1088543A1|1999-09-30|2001-04-04|The Procter & Gamble Company|Hair care compositions|
    US20060024254A1|2004-08-02|2006-02-02|Isp Investments Inc.|Personal care compositions|
    FR2965172A1|2010-09-24|2012-03-30|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE CALCIUM SALT, AT LEAST ONE FATTY ALCOHOL, AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC SURFACTANT AND AT LEAST ONE THICKENING AGENT|
    CN105492079A|2013-08-01|2016-04-13|欧莱雅|Composition comprising an aminosilicone, a cationic surfactant, an associative polymer and a thickening agent|CN108125814A|2018-02-08|2018-06-08|花安堂生物科技集团有限公司|A kind of hair care and skin care compositions of cation form work composition|
    US10611986B1|2018-03-15|2020-04-07|Earthcare Labs, Llc|Cleaning composition comprising a cationic/nonionic mixture|
    EP3590493A1|2018-07-05|2020-01-08|Evonik Operations GmbH|Hybrid quats for hair treatment|
    法律状态:
    2016-07-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2017-02-10| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20170210 |
    2017-06-28| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2018-06-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2019-06-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2020-06-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2021-06-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1557455A|FR3039764B1|2015-08-03|2015-08-03|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC SURFACTANT, A FATTY ALCOHOL, AND TWO NON-IONIC POLYMERS|
    FR1557455|2015-08-03|FR1557455A| FR3039764B1|2015-08-03|2015-08-03|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC SURFACTANT, A FATTY ALCOHOL, AND TWO NON-IONIC POLYMERS|
    CN201680045828.6A| CN107921294A|2015-08-03|2016-08-03|Include the cosmetic composition of cationic surfactant, fatty alcohol and two kinds of non-ionic polymers|
    US15/749,881| US20180228718A1|2015-08-03|2016-08-03|Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant, a fatty alcohol and two nonionic polymers|
    EP16745767.0A| EP3331616A1|2015-08-03|2016-08-03|Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant, a fatty alcohol and two nonionic polymers|
    PCT/EP2016/068532| WO2017021444A1|2015-08-03|2016-08-03|Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant, a fatty alcohol and two nonionic polymers|
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