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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a transparent two-phase cosmetic composition comprising: an aqueous glycerinated phase comprising glycerin and water, and a non-silicone oily phase comprising at least one vegetable oil, at least two esters and a triglyceride, said at least two esters being selected from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, isopropylpalmitate, C13-15 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, and said triglyceride being trihepthanoin. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a transparent biphase composition comprising an aqueous glycerinated phase comprising glycerin and water, and a silicone-free oily phase comprising at least one vegetable oil, at least two esters and a triglyceride, said at least two esters being selected from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, isopropylpalmitate, C13-15 alkane, dicaprylyl ether and coco-caprylate, and said triglyceride being trihepthanoin.
    公开号:FR3038514A1
    申请号:FR1556450
    申请日:2015-07-07
    公开日:2017-01-13
    发明作者:Audrey Brecy；Emilie Saintamon
    申请人:Laboratoires M&L SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    TRANSPARENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION BIPHASE Technical field
    The present invention relates to a transparent two-phase cosmetic composition comprising: a glycerinated aqueous phase comprising glycerin and water, and a silicone-free oily phase comprising at least one vegetable oil, at least two esters and a triglyceride, said at least two esters being selected from the group consisting of isononylisononanoate, isopropylpalmitate, C13-15 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate and said triglyceride being trihepthanoin.
    The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a transparent two-phase composition comprising: - an aqueous glycerinated phase comprising glycerin and water, and - an oily phase without silicone comprising at least one vegetable oil, at least two esters and a triglyceride, said at least two esters selected from the group comprising isononylisononanoate, isopropylpalmitate, C13-15 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, and said triglyceride being trihepthanoin.
    The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the care of the skin and / or hair or treatment of the skin and / or hair comprising the use of a transparent two-phase composition comprising: - a glycerinated aqueous phase comprising glycerine and water, and - a silicone-free oily phase comprising at least one vegetable oil, at least two esters and a triglyceride, said at least two esters being selected from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, C13-15 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, and said triglyceride being trihepthanoin.
    The present invention also relates to a kit for the cosmetic treatment of skin and / or hair comprising a transparent two-phase composition comprising: an aqueous glycerinated phase comprising glycerin and water, and an oily phase without silicone comprising at least one vegetable oil, at least two esters and a triglyceride, said at least two esters being selected from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, isopropylpalmitate, C13-15 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, and said triglyceride being trihepthanoin and a carrier having instructions for use of the composition on the skin and / or hair.
    The present invention finds an application particularly in the cosmetics field.
    In the description below, references in brackets ([]) refer to the list of references at the end of the text.
    State of the art
    There exist in the cosmetic field different forms of compositions, for example milk-type compositions, creams, lotions each comprising specific physicochemical characteristics. There are also in the cosmetics field compositions consisting of two distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified one in the other at rest. These compositions are generally referred to as "two-phase composition". They are distinguished from conventional emulsions such as oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions due to their phase shift. In use, these compositions require prior agitation to form a homogeneous mixture with a phase shift sufficiently slow to allow a uniform application of the two phases on the skin or the keratin material by the user and at the same time fast enough to have a visual effect.
    After application, the aqueous phase and the oily phase must separate rapidly and return to their original state in order to reform a two-phase composition.
    There are commercially available two-phase compositions that can be used in particular for cutaneous and / or capillary applications. For example, there are numerous so-called two-phase compositions for, in particular, make-up removal of the skin, the treatment of hair, for example hair-smoothing compositions, for the protection of the hair against external aggressions, for example the ultra Violets.
    However, the commercially available compositions use controversial chemical components, for example silicones, and / or liable to weigh down / suffocate the keratin material. In addition, the main two-phase compositions are considered by users as "chemical" compositions. For several years, cosmetic users and consumers have been seeking natural cosmetic products / compositions, that is to say, the active ingredients of which are derived from plants and / or plants and / or products obtained from nature, such as honey etc. In other words, users / consumers are looking for cosmetic products with high naturalness. There is therefore a real need to find a two-phase composition with high naturalness. In addition, the compositions known in the state of the art have a "coarse" phase shift, namely in particular an unclear interface between the two phases, namely in particular a white deposit at the interface and these, whatever the time of rest.
    There is also a real need to find a new two-phase composition having two clearly distinct phases capable of rapidly forming a stable emulsion and also an effective and rapid phase shift. In addition, the two-phase cosmetic compositions known commercially include phases of which at least one is opaque or non-translucent. This visual aspect is likely to be perceived by users as a product "unnatural" and not meeting the expectations of users.
    There is therefore also a real need to find a new two-phase translucent composition, that is to say having two clearly distinct and non-opaque phases.
    There is therefore a real need to find new cosmetic compositions overcoming these defects, disadvantages and obstacles of the prior art, in particular two-phase transparent compositions having two clear and distinct phases, a clean interface and a strong naturalness.
    Description of the invention
    The present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs and disadvantages by providing a transparent two-phase cosmetic composition comprising: - an aqueous glycerinated phase comprising glycerin and water, and - an oily phase without silicone comprising at least one oil plant, at least two esters and a triglyceride, said at least two esters being selected from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, isopropylpalmitate, C13-15 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, and said triglyceride being the trihepthanoïne.
    The inventors of the present are indeed the first to have demonstrated, quite unexpectedly, that a two-phase cosmetic composition as mentioned below has two transparent phases with a clear interface between the two phases at rest. . In addition, the inventors have surprisingly demonstrated that the two-phase composition according to the invention can be easily and quickly homogenized and a rapid phase shift with the reformation of two distinct phases with a clean interface.
    In the present "biphasic cosmetic composition" is meant a cosmetic composition comprising two distinct phases, namely an aqueous phase and an oily phase, said phases being independently visible, that is to say visible one above the other at rest.
    In the present "transparent" composition is meant a composition that lets light through and clearly show the objects behind. In the present, the composition may be "transparent" especially when the difference between the refractive index of the aqueous phase and that of the oily phase is less than 0.01. For example, and advantageously when the difference between the refractive index of the aqueous phase and that of the oily phase is less than 0.01, the two-phase composition according to the invention remains after transparent stirring. In the present invention the refractive index can be measured by any method and / or device known to those skilled in the art. For example, the refractive index can be measured by an electronic refractometer, for example an electronic refractometer marketed under the trademark ATAGO.
    According to the invention, the aqueous phase may comprise from 1 to 45% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. For example, the aqueous phase may comprise from 1 to 5% by weight of glycerine, from 35 to 45% by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
    The inventors have surprisingly demonstrated that the percentage by weight of glycerin can be adapted according to the use and / or conditioning of the composition. For example, when the aqueous phase comprises from 1 to 5% by weight of glycerine, it may be particularly suitable for use in the form of a spray, for example for a cutaneous application on the body. For example, when the aqueous phase comprises from 35 to 45% by weight of glycerine it may be particularly suitable for use in the form of pump serum, for example for application to hair or hair fibers.
    According to the invention, the glycerine aqueous phase may also comprise from 1 to 5% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. For example, the aqueous phase may comprise from 1 to 5% by weight of ethanol, from 1 to 2% by weight of ethanol, from 2 to 5% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
    Advantageously, when the glycerinated aqueous phase comprises ethanol, the composition, for example when it is applied to the skin does not provide a "greasy" appearance of the skin.
    According to the invention, the density of the aqueous phase may be from 1 to 1.20, for example from 1.02 to 1.19, equal to 1.026 or 1.1925.
    Advantageously, the density of the aqueous phase may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application on the body, the density of the aqueous phase may be from 1 to 1.20, for example equal to 1.026, by example for application to the hair or the hair fiber, the density of the aqueous phase can be from 1.02 to 1.20, for example equal to 1.1925.
    In the present the density can be measured by any method and / or device known to those skilled in the art. For example, the density can be measured by an electronic density meter, for example a commercially available electronic densimeter, for example the DMA 35 EX portable density meter electronic density meter marketed by Anton Paar.
    According to the invention, the pH of the aqueous phase can be from 4 to 6, for example from 4 to 5.5. Advantageously, the pH of the aqueous phase may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application to the body, the pH of the aqueous phase may be from 5 to 5.5, for example for application to hair or the hair fiber, the pH of the aqueous phase can be from 4 to 4.5.
    According to the invention, the glycerinated aqueous phase may have a refractive index of from 1.3 to 1.54, for example from 1.3420 to 1.44, equal to 1.4374 or 1.3535. Advantageously, the refractive index of the aqueous glycerine phase may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application to the body, the refractive index of the glycerinated aqueous phase may be from 1.3 to 1 , 36, equal to 1.3535, for example for application to the hair or the hair fiber, the refractive index of the aqueous glycerine phase can be from 1.4 to 1.5, for example equal to 1, 4374.
    According to the invention, in which the glycerinated aqueous phase may further comprise a halide salt of formula A + X 'in which A + is chosen from the group comprising sodium (Na), potassium (K) and X- selected from the group consisting of chlorine (Cl).
    According to the invention, the aqueous phase may comprise from 1 to 3% by weight of halogen salt of formula A + X 'relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. For example, the aqueous phase may comprise from 1.25 to 2.5% by weight, from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, from 1.25 to 2% by weight of halide salt of formula A + X ' relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
    Advantageously, the halide salt of formula A + X 'included in glycerinated aqueous phase is sodium chloride (NaCl).
    In the present "non-silicone oil phase" is meant an oily phase not containing and / or being free of silicone compounds, that is to say containing less than 1 ppm of silicone compound.
    According to the invention, the oily phase included in the composition according to the invention may have a refractive index of from 1.4 to 1.5, for example from 1.44 to 1.45, equal to 1.4415 or 1 , 4374. Advantageously, the refractive index of the oily phase may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application to the body, the refractive index of the oily phase may be from 1.44 to 1.45 , equal to 1.4415, for example for application to the hair or the hair fiber, the refractive index of the oily phase may be from 1.4 to 1.5, for example equal to 1.4374.
    According to the invention, the density of the oily phase may be from 0.89 to 0.95, for example from 0.9 to 0.93, equal to 0.9005 or 0.902. Advantageously, the density of the oily phase may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application to the body, the density of the oily phase may be from 0.9 to 0.91, for example equal to 0.902 for example for application to the hair or the hair fiber, the density of the oily phase may be from 0.89 to 0.91, for example equal to 0.9005.
    In the present "vegetable oil" means any vegetable oil known to those skilled in the art suitable for cosmetic application. It may be for example a vegetable oil selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, walnut oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil, lemon oil, sweet almond oil, broccoli oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, meadowfoam oil (meadowfoam) ), camelina oil and / or a mixture thereof. It may be for example a vegetable oil comprising saturated and unsaturated C16 to C24 fatty acids. For example, a vegetable oil comprising palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, ecosenoic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, ricuronic acid or a mixture of these. It may be, for example a vegetable oil comprising a fatty acid content by weight as shown in Table 1 below:
    It may also be for example a vegetable oil marketed by the company OLVEA / CAUVIN / COGNIS / PROVENCE OIL / OLISUD. It may be for example jojoba oil marketed by the company Olisud under the commercial reference "jojoba golden yellow organic oil," for example a jojoba oil with a color / appearance golden yellow ("golden yellow"). >) with a density of 0.864g.cm'3 and a refractive index of 1.4663.
    Advantageously, in the present invention the vegetable oil is jojoba oil.
    According to the invention, the oil may be present in the oily phase at a concentration of 0.5 to 2%, of 1 to 1.5%, equal to 1 or 1.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase. Advantageously, the concentration of oil in the oily phase may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application to the body, the oil concentration in the oily phase may be from 0.9 to 1.1 % by weight, for example equal to 1% by weight, for example for application to the hair or the hair fiber, the density of the oily phase may be from 1.2 to 1.3, for example equal to 1.25 % by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
    According to the invention, the oily phase may comprise from 60 to 96% by weight of esters, for example from 85 to 95%, equal to 95% or 92% by weight of esters relative to the total weight of the oily phase . Advantageously, the concentration of esters in the oily phase may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application to the body, the concentration of esters in the oily phase may be from 90 to 95% by weight, for example equal to 92% by weight, for example for application to the hair or hair fiber, the concentration of esters in the oily phase may be from 92 to 96% by weight, for example equal to 95% by weight of ester relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
    According to the invention, the composition may comprise from 20 to 50% by weight of esters, for example from 30 to 50%, from 35 to 45%, equal to 38% or 45% by weight of esters relative to the weight total of the composition. Advantageously, the concentration of esters in the composition may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application to the body, the concentration of esters in the oily phase may be from 40 to 50% by weight, for example example equal to 45% by weight, for example for application to the hair or hair fiber, the concentration of ester in the composition may be from 36 to 40% by weight, for example equal to 38% by weight of ester relative to the total weight of the composition.
    According to the invention, the oily phase may comprise at least two, at least three or at least four esters selected from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, C 13-15 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate . It may be, for example, an oily phase comprising at least isononyl isononanoate, and isopropyl palmitate, an oily phase comprising at least C13-15 alkane and dicaprylyl ether. It may also be for example an oily phase comprising isononyl isononanoate, isopropylpalmitate and coco-caprylate, an oily phase comprising C13-15 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, isononyl isononanoate and isopropylpalmitate.
    According to the invention, the oily phase may comprise from 30 to 65% by weight of trihepthanoin, for example from 40 to 65%, from 40 to 63% by weight of trihepthanoin relative to the total weight of the oily phase. Advantageously, the concentration of trihepthanoin in the oily phase may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application to the body, the concentration of trihepthanoin in the oily phase may be from 38 to 45% by weight, for example equal to 41% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, for example for application to the hair or hair fiber, the concentration of trihepthanoin in the oily phase may be from 60 to 65% by weight, for example equal to to 62.5% by weight of trihepthanoin relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
    According to the invention, the composition may comprise from 5 to 40% by weight of trihepthanoin, for example from 10 to 30%, from 20 to 25% by weight of trihepthanoin relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the concentration of trihepthanoin in the composition may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application to the body, the concentration of trihepthanoin in the composition phase may be from 15 to 25% by weight, for example equal at 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example for application to the hair or hair fiber, the concentration of trihepthanoin in the composition may be from 20 to 30% by weight, for example equal to 25% by weight of trihepthanoin relative to the total weight of the composition.
    According to the invention, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase may be from 35/65 to 65/35, for example from 40/60 to 60/40, 45/55 to 55/45, equal to 50 / 50. Advantageously, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase may be a function of the intended application, for example for dermal application on the body, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase may be equal to 51/48. , for example for application to the hair or hair fiber, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase may be equal to 60/40.
    Advantageously, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase can be adapted according to the intended application. For example, when the two-phase composition is intended for application to the body, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase may advantageously be from 55/45 to 45/55, from 52/48 to 48/52, equal to at 51/49. When the two-phase composition is intended for application to the body, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase may advantageously be from 55/45 to 45/55, from 52/48 to 48/52, equal to 51 / 49.
    The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more components that can be used in cosmetics, for example one or more cosmetic active agents known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example an anti-aging agent, a moisturizing agent, a soothing agent, an agent acting on the microcirculation, a firming agent, a slimming agent, a tightening agent or a mixture of these agents. These agents may be those commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological products. Examples of useful anti-aging agents may be, for example, oat extract, extracts obtained by biotechnology, for example hyaluronic acid, extracts of algae, bioferments, biosaccharide gum-1, saccharide gum-2, saccharide gum-3, saccharide gum-4, sugars, for example glucose, sucrose, fructose, honeys, flower nectars, fruit juices, polysaccharides, for example saccharide gum-1, saccharide gum, 2, saccharide gum-3, saccharide gum-4, peptides, for example peptides derived from an association of amino acids, or derived from cutting proteins with Biotechnology, for example dipeptides, tetrapeptides and / or oligopeptides . Examples of moisturizing agents that may be used may be, for example, glycerine, hyaluronic acid, polysaccharides, products derived from beekeeping, for example honey. Examples of soothing agents that may be used may be, for example, bisabolol or allantoin. An example of a slimming agent may be caffeine. Examples of metabolic active agents may be vitamins such as vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin F.
    Examples of agents acting on the microcirculation may be for example extracts of Corallina Officinalis. Examples of firming agents may be, for example, a rye extract (rich in arabinoxylans), tensing agents, for example hibiscus oligopeptides. This or these agent (s) may be used in the composition of the present invention for example at the concentrations usually used and known to those skilled in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise a cosmetic active ingredient obtained from plants, for example a plant extract, an essential oil and / or any extract that can be obtained from a plant material. It may be for example an extract obtained from all or part of a plant, for example flowers, stems, buds, fruits, roots, flower heads, twigs, bark , of radioles. It may be, for example, an extract of immortelle (Helichrysum Italicum), angelica, almond, cade, rosemary, sandalwood, chestnut, coriander, camelina, evening primrose, borage, apples, rice, goat queen, lemon, myrtle, clover, sea lily, wintergreen, kniphofia, narcissus, white lupine, daisy, iris , pine, raspberry, blackcurrant, beech or any mixture thereof.
    The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise a hair cosmetic active ingredient, for example d-panthenol, a hair-fixing agent, for example the polyvinylpyrrolidone polymer, a cationic polymer, for example polyquaternium polymer.
    The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a concentration of cosmetic active agent (s) of 0.03 to 3% by weight, for example from 0.03 to 3%, from 0.1 to 2%, of 0.15 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
    In the present, the cosmetic composition may comprise one or more adjuvants known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example one or more adjuvant (s) chosen from among ester agents, moisturizing agents, emollients, sequestering agents, consistency factors, perfumes, preservatives, ceramides, and pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and provitamins, proteins, alkanizing agents, acidifying agents, reducing agents, antioxidants, mineral fillers, colorants or any other adjuvant which may be mentioned in the INCI dictionary ( International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) published by the PCPC (Personal Care Products Council).
    The cosmetic composition of the invention can be obtained by any appropriate method known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. It may be, for example a simple mixture of each ingredient independently in each of the phases and optionally pouring into a container, for example a bottle, the aqueous phase and then the oily phase.
    According to the invention, the two-phase transparent composition may be in a form selected from a serum, a mist, a body tonic, a hair tonic, a body and hair tonic. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method comprising the application to the skin of a transparent two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention.
    In this process, the two-phase transparent cosmetic composition is as defined above.
    According to the invention, the application may be a simple application on the skin, an application accompanied by a massage, a simple application and / or accompanied by a massage. Advantageously according to the invention, the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method after application of the two-phase cosmetic composition does not comprise a rinsing step.
    Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a high naturalness whatever its shape and / or the intended application. For example, the composition according to the invention may have a naturalness of from 80 to 99.5%, for example from 86 to 98.97%, for example when the composition is envisaged for a cutaneous application on the body, the naturalness may ranging from 82 to 88%, for example equal to 86, for example when the composition is envisaged for application to the hair or hair fiber, the naturalness can be from 95 to 99%, for example equal to 98.97% .
    The inventors have surprisingly demonstrated that the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention when it is applied to the skin, because of its particular shape, does not require rinsing after application. The application may preferably be carried out with a sufficient amount of the cosmetic composition so that the entire surface of the skin to be treated is treated. It may be for example a conventional application, such as a cream on the skin. The application can be any application desired by the user as needed. This may be for example an application once a week, twice a week, three times a week or more, once a day.
    The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method comprising the application to the hair of a transparent two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention.
    In this process, the two-phase transparent cosmetic composition is as defined above.
    According to the invention, the application can be a simple application to the hair. It may also be an application by sprinkling, for example on the tips and / or the lengths of the hair. According to the invention, after application of the two-phase transparent composition according to the invention, a simple application to the hair. It may also be an application by sprinkling, for example on the tips and / or the lengths of the hair.
    Advantageously according to the invention, the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method after application of the two-phase cosmetic composition does not comprise a rinsing step.
    The inventors have in fact surprisingly demonstrated that the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention when it is applied to the skin, because of its particular shape, does not require rinsing after application.
    According to the invention, the application can be carried out on wet hair or pre-dried, for example with a hair dryer. According to the invention, the application to the hair of the two-phase transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention can be followed by a styling step advantageously to distribute / homogenize the two-phase transparent composition on the hair. The application may preferably be carried out with a sufficient amount of the cosmetic composition so that the entire surface of the hair to be treated is treated. The application can be any application desired by the user as needed. It may be for example an application once a week, twice a week, three times a week, after a shampoo, or after a "routine" corresponding to the application of a shampoo and conditioner.
    The present invention also relates to a kit for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin comprising a transparent two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention and a support comprising instructions for the use of the composition on the skin.
    The support comprising instructions for the use of the cosmetic composition may be a manual or a notice may have the particular function of explaining to the user the manner and frequency of application to the skin of the transparent two-phase cosmetic composition of the present invention.
    The present invention also relates to a kit for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of hair comprising a transparent two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention and a support comprising instructions for the use of the composition on the hair.
    The support comprising instructions for the use of the cosmetic composition may be a manual or a note may have the particular function of explaining to the user how and frequency of application to the hair, for example spikes and / or the lengths of the transparent two-phase cosmetic composition of the present invention.
    According to the invention, the cosmetic care kit may also comprise an applicator, for example a brush. Other advantages may still appear to those skilled in the art upon reading the examples below.
    Brief description of the figures
    Figure 1 shows a hair photograph after treatment with shampoo and composition B of Table 6 (A) or shampoo and the composition of Table 5 (B).
    Figure 2 shows photographs of transparent cosmetic containers respectively comprising: A: composition of Table 5 and B: a commercially available composition.
    Figure 3 shows a photograph of different locks of hair after treatment with composition 1 (A), composition 2 (B), composition 3 (C) and composition 4 (D).
    Figure 4 shows a hair photograph after treatment with the composition mentioned in Table 3 below (A) and a commercially available composition (B).
    FIG. 5 represents photographs of an example of two-phase composition according to the invention before stirring, immediately after stirring and 5 minutes after stirring.
    EXAMPLES
    Example 1 Example of Cosmetic Compositions According to the Present Invention
    In this example, the vegetable oil used was the jojoba vegetable oil marketed by the company Olisud under the commercial reference "organic jojoba golden yellow oil". The glycerine used was a commercially available glycerin, the ethanol used was ethanol sold under the reference alcohol surfin 96 nature, the isononyl isononoate was a commercially available isononyl isononanoate the isopropylpalmitate was isopropylpalmitate marketed by the CRODA company under the trade name crodamol iPP-LQ, the trihepthanoin used was trihepthanoin marketed by CREMER OLEO GmbH under the trade name CREMERCOOR MCT C7.
    The compositions below were prepared according to the process comprising the following steps: - preparation of the aqueous phase cold, that is to say at a temperature of 25 ° C in a beaker with a stirrer with a pale planetary to a speed of 500 rpm by: o weighing and introduction of the water into the beaker, o addition of EDTA and stirring until dilution, o addition of glycerine, o possible addition of ethanol, o possible addition of sodium chloride, dpanthenol and stirring until dilution, o optional addition of phenoxyethanol, o addition of acid to adjust the pH, o possible addition of a dye, and o obtaining of the aqueous phase - preparation of the phase oily cold, that is to say at a temperature of 25 ° C in a beaker with a stirrer with a planetary light at a speed of 500 revolutions per minute by: o weighing and introduction of triheptanoin, o addition of isononyl isononanoate or cetiol O E (dicaprylyl ether), o addition of isopropylpalmitate or C13-15 alkane, o addition of the oil of meadowfoam alba ("meadowfoam") o addition of jojoba oil, o addition of perfume, and o addition of antioxidants and essential oils o obtaining the oily phase - Pouring a volume of the aqueous phase in a glass or thermosetting plastic container with a volume of 100ml, then - Pouring a volume of the phase oily on top of the aqueous phase in said container. From this process, the compositions described in Tables 1 and 2 below were obtained.
    Table 1: Transparent two-phase cosmetic composition for the body expressed in% relative to the total weight
    Table 2: Transparent two-phase cosmetic composition for the hair expressed in% relative to the total weight
    Table 3: Transparent two-phase cosmetic composition for the hair expressed in% relative to the total weight
    The three compositions obtained had a two-phase structure with an aqueous phase and a separated oily phase at rest. The interface between the two phases was clear and without interpenetration.
    After obtaining, an evaluation of the density of the aqueous phase and the oily phase was carried out with an electronic density meter. To do this, an electronic density meter type DMA 35 Ex portable density meter marketed by the company Anton Paar was used in density measurement mode, a plastic tube was immersed in the solution to be measured and the reading of the density performed. Each measurement was performed five times and the value selected was the average of the five measurements. The results obtained for the composition of Table 1 were 1.026 for the aqueous phase and 0.902 for the oily phase. For the composition described in Table 2, the results obtained were 1.019 for the aqueous phase and 0.928 for the oily phase; and for the composition described in Table 3, the results obtained were 1.1925 for the aqueous phase and 0.9005 for the oily phase.
    Figure 5 shows photographs of the two-phase composition of Table 3 before stirring, immediately after stirring and 5 minutes after stirring. This figure clearly demonstrates that the composition according to the invention has a two-phase structure with a clean interface and after stirring, a return to a fast two-phase state with a clean interface.
    Example 2 Comparative Usaa Tests
    In order to validate the effectiveness of the composition of the invention a comparative test on locks and hair were performed on women aged between 25 and 40 years. The candidates had medium to long hair, normal to dry, weakened by coloring or locks, used to use the hair dryer or straightening plates.
    A first series of tests was carried out by application on a hemitrate composition according to the invention described in Tables 3 and 4 below with respect to the application on the other half-head of two-phase compositions known in the state of the technique, for example the two-phase composition Dessange Reveil Color Care and gloss serum or examples of compositions described in French Patent FR2939662 and illustrated in Table 5 below.
    Table 4: Transparent two-phase cosmetic composition for the hair expressed in% relative to the total weight
    Table 5: Transparent two-phase cosmetic composition for the hair expressed in% relative to the total weight
    Table 6: Transparent two-phase cosmetic compositions described in patent FR2939662 expressed in% relative to the total weight
    Table 7 below summarizes the protocol implemented during the tests.
    Table 7: Summary of the tests
    For the application of the compositions described in Tables 4 and 5, this application was carried out via a hair spray with 3 to 6 sprays spread over the length and the tips. The results obtained are summarized in Tables 8 to 10 below:
    Table 8: Results obtained during test 1
    As shown in Table 8, a two-phase composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a better disentangling than the compositions known in the state of the art on wet hair and also makes it possible to smooth, soften and protect hair dry after blow drying. .
    Table 9: Results obtained in Test 2
    As demonstrated in Table 9, a two-phase composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a better disentangling than the compositions known in the state of the art and allows a better sheathing of the hair.
    Table 10: Results obtained during test 3
    As demonstrated in Table 9, a two-phase composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a better disentangling than the compositions known in the state of the art and allows a better smoothing, sheathing, softening and facilitating the styling of hair.
    Table 11: Results obtained in Test 4
    Figure 1 shows a photograph of the hair after treatment with a shampoo and composition B of Table 6 (A) or a shampoo and composition of Table 5 (B)
    A visual comparison of the appearance of the composition of Table 5 and the composition of the state of the art after stirring was performed. FIG. 2 represents photographs of the two compositions (A: composition of Table 5, B: composition of the state of the art) 10 minutes after stirring. As shown in this figure, an exemplary composition according to the invention has a much faster phase shift time with an oily phase / net water phase interface.
    Figure 4 shows hair photographs after treatment with both compositions (A: composition of Table 3, B: commercially available composition).
    Example 3 Comparative Tests for Application on Wick
    In this example, the compositions used were the composition of Table 5 (composition 1), the commercially available two-phase paint Dessange color 'composition (composition 2), the composition A of Table 6 (composition 3) and the composition B of the table 6 (composition 4).
    All the locks were prewashed with Sodium Laureth Sulfate (TEXAPON) and were prepared as follows: • Detangling the lock of hair • Wetting the lock with tap water (T = 37 ° C) • Application of 0, 15g of shampoo at the base of the wick • Perform 10 times a movement from top to bottom on the wick • Perform 5 rotational rubs and then 5 more movements from top to bottom • Rinse the hair abundantly with 10 top movements downwards • Spin by making 2 movements from top to bottom out of the water • Applying 1 composition spray to the center of the wick (measured product weight measured) • Distribution of the product by combing the comb 1 time. • Evaluate the criterion "Ease of disentangling" • Drying the locks with hairdryer • Evaluation criteria on dry hair: Softness, Discipline, Presence of residues
    The ease of disentangling was evaluated by the number of comb passes, the softness was evaluated by touching the wick between the fingers, the discipline was evaluated by visual observation of the thickness of the wick (finer = disciplined, less fine or wider = undisciplined) and the presence of residues was determined by the evaluation under the fingers of the wick and evaluation of residues remaining after passage on the wick.
    FIG. 3 represents a photograph of the different locks after treatment with composition 1 (A), composition 2 (B), composition 3 (C) and composition 4 (D).
    The results obtained from the evaluation of the various criteria mentioned above are summarized in Table 12.
    Table 12: Results obtained
    As demonstrated in this example, an exemplary composition according to the invention advantageously allows both to disentangle, soften, discipline and smooth the hair. In addition, the composition according to the invention does not have the drawbacks of composition of the prior art which do not allow in particular to discipline the hair and / or grease the hair and / or induces the formation of residues on the hair causing an unsightly appearance.
    权利要求:
    Claims (19)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    claims
    A transparent two-phase cosmetic composition comprising: an aqueous glycerinated phase comprising glycerin and water, and a non-silicone oily phase comprising at least one vegetable oil, two esters and a triglyceride, said two esters being chosen from group comprising isononyl isononanoate, isopropylpalmitate, C13-15 alkane, dicaprylyl ether and coco-caprylate, and said triglyceride being trihepthanoin.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises from 1 to 45% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the aqueous phase further comprises ethanol.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, wherein the aqueous phase comprises from 1 to 5% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glycerinated aqueous phase further comprises a halide salt of formula A + X 'in which A + is chosen from the group comprising sodium (Na), potassium ( K) and X- is selected from the group consisting of chlorine (Cl).
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises from 0.5 to 2% by weight of vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of jojoba oil, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, oil. broccoli, avocado oil, grape seed oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, meadowfoam oil, camelina oil and / or a mixture of these.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises from 30 to 65% by weight of trihepthanoin relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises from 60 to 95% by weight of esters relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is from 35/65 to 65/35.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being in a form chosen from a serum, a mist, a body tonic, a hair tonic, a body tonic and hair.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being free of silicones.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method comprising the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. A cosmetic care method for hair care comprising a step of application to the scalp and / or the hair of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.
    [16" id="c-fr-0016]
    16. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.
    [17" id="c-fr-0017]
    17. A cosmetic care method for the care of the skin comprising a step of applying the skin of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.
    [18" id="c-fr-0018]
    18. Hair treatment kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 and a support comprising instructions for the use of the transparent two-phase cosmetic composition on the hair.
    [19" id="c-fr-0019]
    19. A skin treatment kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 and a support comprising instructions for the use of the transparent two-phase cosmetic composition on the skin.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3038514B1|2018-06-29|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    WO2004014325A1|2002-08-02|2004-02-19|Beiersdorf Ag|Cosmetic preparations having two phases|
    FR2939662A1|2008-12-17|2010-06-18|Oreal|TRANSPARENT BIPHASE COMPOSITION WITHOUT SILICONES|
    FR2971421A1|2011-02-16|2012-08-17|Oreal|Composition, useful e.g. for removing make-up and cleaning skin, comprises hydrophilic phase e.g. polycondensate of ethylene oxide, and separate oily phase comprising oil fatty acid ester and cyclic silicone oil|
    FR3015897A1|2014-01-02|2015-07-03|M & L Lab|HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION|WO2018211211A1|2017-05-19|2018-11-22|Laboratoires M&L|Biphasic cosmetic composition|
    WO2020126219A1|2018-12-17|2020-06-25|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Silicone-free biphasic hair restorative|
    FR3104949A1|2019-12-20|2021-06-25|L'oreal|SPRAYING DEVICE WITH A BIPHASE COMPOSITION INCLUDING AN AQUEOUS PHASE CONSISTING OF ONE OR MORE POLYOLS AND AN OILY PHASE CONSISTING OF NON-SILICONE OILS|
    WO2022003000A1|2020-07-01|2022-01-06|L'oreal|Two-phase composition comprising an alkylpolyglycoside surfactant, a particular diol and an alkane, ester or ether compound comprising from 15 to 30 carbon atoms|
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    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1556450A|FR3038514B1|2015-07-07|2015-07-07|TRANSPARENT BIPHASE COSMETIC COMPOSITION|FR1556450A| FR3038514B1|2015-07-07|2015-07-07|TRANSPARENT BIPHASE COSMETIC COMPOSITION|
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