• 专利附录
  • 专利说明
  • 权利要求
  • 类似技术
  • 同族专利
  • 引用文献
  • 法律状态
  • 优先权
    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a hair treatment method which comprises: a) applying to the hair a composition comprising one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, b) l applying steam to the hair by means of a device capable of generating water vapor, step b) being able to precede, follow or be simultaneous with step a).
    公开号:FR3032119A1
    申请号:FR1550706
    申请日:2015-01-29
    公开日:2016-08-05
    发明作者:Melissa Champeaux；Gregory Plos；Gabin Vic；Frederic Woodland
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The invention relates to a method for treating hair with a composition comprising at least one particular silicone and steam. . Two main categories of hair shaping products are generally used: hair styling products and permanent products. Styling products allow a non-permanent shaping of the hair. They are used on wet or dry hair before shaping by hand or using a brush or a comb. They are in the form of gels, mousses, waxes, pastes, lacquers, or sprays. After their application to the hair and after drying, these products harden significantly. This results in a non-natural, dry, corporeal touch necessary to maintain and volume the hairstyle. In addition, they are poorly resistant to moisture and hair lose their shaping in case of exposure to a humid atmosphere, especially in a humid and hot atmosphere. Thus, on the one hand the general shape of the hairstyle is quickly lost and, on the other hand, the hair form frizz, especially for naturally curly hair. To improve the feel, it is known to use silicones, or silicone derivatives, in particular amino silicones and amino silicones with silanol functions capable of reacting with each other to form new bonds. Silicones give a natural, soft, non-greasy and non-frizzy touch. They can also partially withstand water which keeps the touch soft and natural. However, they do not make it possible to obtain shaping of the hair, or to fight against the appearance of frizz, except to apply a very large amount of product, which gives a greasy touch. As they compensate for very little dry touch when associated with other types of styling products such as fixing polymers, the combination of these two technologies remains unsatisfactory.
    [0002] In addition, these styling products are eliminated by shampooing. So you have to apply them daily. The permanent products allow a lasting shaping of the hair. Generally, the technique used to obtain a permanent deformation of the hair consists, in a first step, in opening the disulfide bonds -SS- of the keratin (cystine) by applying to the hair previously put under tension (hair curlers and other means powering up) a reducing composition (reducing step) and then, preferably after having rinsed the hair so treated, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair still under tension an oxidizing composition (oxidation step , also called fixation) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape.
    [0003] The new shape imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment as above is durable over time and particularly resistant to the action of washing with water or shampoo. However, such a technique is not entirely satisfactory. Indeed, this technique is very effective for changing the shape of the hair, but very degrading for hair fibers. These two systems do not provide a cosmetology and / or sufficient durability of the effect obtained. Therefore, there remains a need to have a hair treatment process to give the hair the desired shape in a sustainable manner, while having very good cosmetic properties. The present invention is specifically intended to meet at least one of these needs. In one aspect, the invention relates to a hair treatment method comprising: a) applying to the hair a composition comprising one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) functional groups; silyl, b) the application on the hair of water vapor by means of a device capable of generating water vapor, step b) which can precede, follow or be simultaneous with step a). The method of the present invention makes it possible to obtain an improvement of the cosmetic properties which is at least one wash. In addition, when used with a device for shaping the hair, such as an iron, for example, the method can in particular make it possible to obtain good shaping of the hair, such as a smoothing / straightening, lasting in time, and remain with shampoos. It can also help reduce hair volume and frizz effect in a sustainable way. The method of the invention thus makes it possible to give the hair the desired shape in a durable manner, while having good cosmetic properties.
    [0004] The process according to the invention comprises a step a) of applying a composition which comprises one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups. The silicone-functional polymer (s) bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups is preferably of the following formula (I): (I) R 1 O -Si -Z 2 Z 3 in which: Z 2 represents a group -CH 2 -NR3R4; Z 3 represents a group OR 5 or R 6; - R1 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a group R7; R4 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group; or - R3 and R4 being able to form, with the nitrogen atom bearing them a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic ring and comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, - R5, R6, R7, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C6 alkyl group; and R a, R b, which are identical or different, represent a Cl-O 2 alkyl group, n represents an integer greater than 1. Preferably, the C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups are methyl or ethyl groups.
    [0005] Preferably, R 1 is an ethyl group. When R 4 is a C 5 -C 6 cycloalkyl group, it is preferably a C 6 cycloalkyl group such as cyclohexyl. Preferably, n ranges from 1 to 10,000, more preferably from 5 to 1,000, and more preferably from 8 to 400.
    [0006] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, Z2 represents a group -OI-12-NR3R4, R4 represents an alkyl group, preferably a cyclohexyl, R3 represents a hydrogen atom and R5 represents an ethyl group. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, R 3 and R 4 form, with the nitrogen atom carrying them, a 5- to 8-membered heterocycle containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms. More preferably, R3 and R4 form with the nitrogen which carries them a cyclic group, preferably morpholino and R5 represents an ethyl group.
    [0007] Preferably, SiRaRb40SiRaRdn- of formula (I) is a unit derived from a linear silicone having a weight average molecular weight of between 200 and 40,000, more preferably between 400 and 25,000 g / mol.
    [0008] By way of examples of polymers corresponding to formula (I), mention may be made of: polymers of formula (Ia) 0 -H OEt OEt / FN1-0 1 Me 0-Si I OEt Si 0 Si 1 I OEt Me Me 0-Si Me (la) The polymers of formula (Ia) can be obtained by reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated silicone with triethoxycyclohexylaminomethylsilane according in particular to the techniques described in WO2005108495. According to one particular example, the polymer (laa) corresponding to formula (Ia) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 4750 g / mol. polymers of formula (Ib) OEt / FN1-OO-Si-O-Si Me Me Si Si Si Me Me Me-Si Me (Ib) The polymers of formula (Ib) can be obtained by reaction of a silicone with hydroxyl endings, with diethoxycyclohexylaminomethyl, methylsilane, in particular according to the techniques described in the document WO2005108495. In a particular example, the polymer (IbA) corresponding to the formula (Ib) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 4750 g / mol. the polymers of formula (Ic) Me Me OEt KI / 0 Si 0-Si 0 Si I Me Me OEt (IC) The polymers of formula (1c) can be obtained by reaction of a silicone with hydroxyl terminations, with triethoxymorpholinomethylsilane following in particular the techniques described in the document WO2009019165.
    [0009] According to a particular example, the polymer (Ica), corresponding to formula (1c), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 4750 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (lcb), corresponding to the formula (1c) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight of 10600 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (1cc), corresponding to the formula (1c) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight of 14600 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (lcd), corresponding to the formula (1c) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 21100 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (Ice) corresponding to the formula (1c) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 550 g / mol.
    [0010] According to another particular example, the polymer (Icf) corresponding to the formula (1c) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 1000 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (Icg) corresponding to formula (1c) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 1200 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (Ich), corresponding to formula (1c), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 1700 g / mol. OEt 1 Si 1 OEt - polymers of formula (Id) OEt OEt K Me / Si 0 Si 0 Si Me Me Me Me 0-Si Me (Id) Polymers of formula (Id) can be obtained by reaction of a silicone with hydroxyl terminations, with diethoxymorpholinomethylmethylsilane according in particular to the techniques described in the document WO2009019165.
    [0011] According to one particular example, the polymer of formulas (Ida), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 4750 g / mol . According to another particular example, the polymer of formulas (Idb), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 10600 g / mol . According to another particular example, the polymer of formulas (Idc), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 14600 g / mol . According to another particular example, the polymer of formulas (Idd), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 21100 g / mol. The content of the silicone-functional polymer (s) bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), in the composition generally ranges from 0.1% to 100% by weight, preferably from 0% to 5% to 30% by weight and more particularly 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The process according to the invention may also employ one or more catalysts for catalyzing the hydrolysis-condensation reactions of the alkoxysilane functional groups of the silicone-functional polymer carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups. The catalyst may be selected from acids and bases. The acid may be selected from mineral acids and organic acids. The acid may in particular be chosen from lactic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid, preferably the acid. hydrochloric. The base can be chosen from inorganic bases and organic bases.
    [0012] The base can be chosen from ammonia and sodium hydroxide. The catalyst may also be chosen from alkoxysilane monomers, with or without amine function, such as aminopropyltriethoxysilane or octyltriethoxysilane. The catalyst may be present in the composition used in the process according to the invention, or it may be mixed at the time of use with the composition, or it may be applied sequentially to the hair before or after the composition. , preferably before. The catalyst or catalysts may represent from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.01% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. The composition may be aqueous or anhydrous. When it contains, the composition preferably contains less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is anhydrous. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous composition" means a composition having a water content of less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or composition which does not contain added water, that is to say that the water optionally present in the composition according to the invention is more particularly bound water, as the water of crystallization of salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions. The composition used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents. The organic solvent or solvents are preferably chosen from alcohols, alkanes, esters and silicones, and mixtures thereof. The alcohols are linear or branched C 1 -C 6 monohydric alcohols or polyols. The esters can be natural or synthetic. The esters may especially be chosen from vegetable oils and esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, such as isopropyl myristate.
    [0013] The alkanes may especially be chosen from linear or branched C 6 -C 15 alkanes and paraffin oils. The silicones may be chosen in particular from aminosilicones, silicones with alkyl terminal groups, cyclic silicones containing from 4 to 6 silicon atoms and linear polydimethylsiloxanes.
    [0014] Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, undecane, tridecane, isododecane, isopropyl myristate, ethyl adipate and acetate. of ethyl, low molecular weight linear silicones or cyclic silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, amino silicones and silicones with alkyl terminal groups and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the solvent is chosen from linear low molecular weight silicones, cyclic silicones, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, and isopropanol. The organic solvents used in the composition used in the process of the invention are preferably liquids which preferably have a viscosity at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure less than or equal to 100 Cst. The organic solvent (s) can represent from 1 to 99.9% and preferably from 70 to 99.5% by weight, better still from 70 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may also contain one or more additives chosen from conditioning agents, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, water-soluble and fat-soluble sunscreens, fillers and solid particles such as inorganic and organic pigments, colored or unstained, pearlescent and opacifying agents, flakes, mineral fillers, dyes, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, alkalizing agents, inorganic and organic thickeners, antioxidants, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, hydroxy acids, penetrating agents, perfumes and preservatives. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. . The composition may be in the form of a solution, a dispersion or an emulsion. The polymer can be emulsified in oil emulsion in water, water in oil or in multiple emulsion. The composition may be in the form of foam, gel, serum, cream, paste, wax, liquid lotion or lacquer. Preferably, the composition is in the form of serum or liquid lotion. The composition may be packaged in a pump bottle or in an aerosol device. Alternatively, provision may be made to package it in a container to be received in a refillable applicator.
    [0015] As indicated above, the composition may or may not contain a catalyst.
    [0016] According to a particular embodiment, the application can be made in a time. In this case, a composition containing both one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), and optionally one or more catalysts as defined above, will be applied. In this embodiment in a time, the composition applied to the hair may result from the mixing of a composition comprising one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably formula (I), and a composition comprising one or more catalysts as defined above. According to another embodiment, the application may be carried out in two stages: in a step (A) the composition comprising one or more catalysts as defined above is applied, in a step (B) the composition comprising one or more a plurality of silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I). In this embodiment, step (A) can be carried out, then step (B), or step (B) and then step (A), with or without intermediate drying. Preferably, step (A) is carried out, followed by step (B). In this particular embodiment, intermediate drying is preferably carried out.
    [0017] The process according to the invention may be carried out starting from one or more compositions packaged in a multi-compartment device, comprising: a first compartment containing a composition comprising one or more silicone-patterned polymers carrying alkoxy functional groups; (aminomethyl) silyl, preferably of formula (I); a second compartment containing a composition comprising one or more catalysts as defined above. The device according to the invention may be intended for one-time or two-time application. In the case of an application in one time, the compositions of the first and second compartments can be delivered simultaneously at the time of application. In the process according to the invention, the composition which has just been described is applied to dry or wet hair.
    [0018] According to the invention, the method further comprises a step b) of applying steam to the hair by means of a device capable of generating water vapor.
    [0019] The application of the steam can be repeated several times on the same fibers, however, it is possible to obtain a very good cosmetic result after a single application of steam. The application of steam may be carried out using any apparatus known per se for generating the amount of steam useful in the process of the invention. According to a particular embodiment, this apparatus is portable, that is to say that the reservoir for generating the steam is in contact with the part of the device comprising the steam distribution orifices. The water vapor can be dry. By "dry steam" is meant a gas which contains only water molecules in the gaseous state. The water vapor can alternatively be wet. By "wet steam" is meant a gas which contains gaseous water molecules and water molecules in the liquid state. This step of applying steam may precede, follow or be simultaneous with the application step of the composition which has just been described. Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a steam application step subsequent to step a). According to a particular embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises two vapor application steps, preferably subsequent to step a).
    [0020] The amount of steam may be included, between 0.5 and 60 g / min, preferably 1 and 20 g / min, more preferably 2 and 10 g / min, more preferably 2 and 5 g / min. Preferably, the steam application time on the hair, for a lock, varies from 1 second to 50 minutes, preferably from 1 second to 10 minutes, more preferably from 1 second to 1 minute. For example, the steam application time on the hair can be about 10 to 15 seconds. According to a particular embodiment, the water vapor that is applied to the hair contains one or more cosmetic ingredients and / or active ingredients such as a perfume, a shaping or conditioning active ingredient, etc.
    [0021] The method according to the invention may further comprise a step of heating the hair at a temperature between, inclusive, 50 ° C and 250 ° C, preferably 90 ° C and 250 ° C, more preferably 120 ° C and 230 ° C, and still more preferably 150 ° C and 230 ° C. The heating step may precede, follow, or be simultaneous with step b) of applying water vapor. Preferably, the heating step may follow the step b) of applying water vapor.
    [0022] According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention comprises a first step of applying steam followed by a step of heating and applying simultaneous steam. The step of heating the hair can be carried out with any type of device known in the art for obtaining a temperature on the hair of at least 50 ° C. The heating step can in particular be carried out by means of a heating device chosen from a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a vaguest iron, a helmet or a hair dryer, preferably using a straightener.
    [0023] According to a particular embodiment, the application of the steam and the heating of the hair are carried out by a single device, preferably a device selected from a straightening iron generating steam, a curling iron generating steam , a steaming iron generating steam, a steaming iron generating steam, more preferably by a straightening iron generating steam.
    [0024] According to a preferred embodiment, the application of water vapor and the heating of the hair are carried out by a single device in which the application of water vapor and heating are dissociated. In other words, for a lock of hair treated, the steaming step and the heating step are not performed simultaneously on the same portion of hair, these two steps can nevertheless be implemented with the same device configured to implement successively these two steps. Alternatively, two separate devices can be used to implement these dissociated steps.
    [0025] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples which are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention. EXAMPLES The following compositions were prepared to carry out the process of the invention, the contents being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: ABCDE Polymer Ic (MW = 5200) 2.5 20.0 10.0 2.5 IRON OXIDES (and) MICA (51.6 / 48.4) 5.0 5.0 5.0 EXAMPLE 1 Composition A was applied to strands of natural dry curly hair with bath ratio of 0.15 g / g.
    [0026] According to a first method (P1) according to the invention, after the application of composition A, two passes were made on each wick of a smoothing tweezer heated to 210 ° C. applying dry water vapor with a flow rate of 3.3g / min. According to a second method (P2) according to the invention, after the application of the composition A, dry water vapor was applied to the locks using a device generating steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g / min, five passes of the device on each wick. Then, two passes were made on each wick of a smoothing tongs heated to 210 ° C applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g / min. According to a third method (P3), after the application of the composition A, two passes were made on each wick of a smoothing tweezer heated to 210.degree. The amount of silicon on the hair treated according to the different methods was measured by X-ray fluorescence spectrometry at θ, that is to say right after the steps of the processes, and after shampooing.
    [0027] The results are shown in the table below in which the amount of silicon is indicated in μg per g of hair. P1 P2 P3 (Invention) (Invention) to 1628 1682 1967 after shampoo 1101 1462 894 It is found that the amount of silicon from the polymer Ic after shampooing is greater on the hair which has undergone a steam treatment (P1 and P2 with respect to P3), this amount further increasing when additional steam treatment was performed (P2 with respect to P1). Example 2 Cyclopentasiloxane Isopropyl Alcohol Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Composition B was applied to 90% dry, natural white locks of hair with a bath ratio of 0.3 g / g. According to a method P4, after the application of the composition B, a stretcher heated to 210 ° C. was passed over each strand.
    [0028] According to a method P5 according to the invention, after the application of composition B, dry steam was applied to the locks using a device generating steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g / min, at a rate of 1 passage of the device on each wick, each passage being performed in 10s. Then, a stretcher of heated tongs heated to 210 ° C. was passed over each strand.
    [0029] According to a method P6 according to the invention, after the application of composition B, dry water vapor was applied to the locks using a device generating steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g / min, 5 passes of the device on each wick, each passage being performed in 10s. Then, a stretcher of heated tongs heated to 210 ° C. was passed over each strand.
    [0030] The behavior of the red mother-of-pearl deposited during the process was visually evaluated at t0 and after 2 shampoos. The following results were obtained: P4 P5 P6 (invention) (invention) at tO +++ +++ +++ after 2 shampoos - + ++ +++: very high red intensity ++: high red intensity +: intensity of red average -: intensity of red weak -: intensity of red very low to zero It is found that the remanence of the composition on the hair is increased with the steam treatment, the remanence increases with the amount of steam applied. Example 3 On 90% dry, natural white locks of hair, the following methods were carried out, the compositions having been applied to the hair with a bath ratio of 0.3 g / g.
    [0031] According to a method P7, composition D was applied to the locks and allowed to dry at room temperature. According to a method P8, composition C was applied to the locks and allowed to dry at room temperature.
    [0032] According to a method P9, the composition D was applied to the locks. Then, two passes were made on each wick of a smoothing tweezer heated to 210 ° C. According to a method P10, composition C was applied to the locks. Then, two passes were made on each wick of a smoothing tweezer heated to 210 ° C. According to a method P11, the composition D was applied to the locks. Then, two passes were made on each wick of a smoothing tongs heated to 210 ° C applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g / min. Each passage is made in 15s. According to a method P12 according to the invention, the composition C was applied to the locks. Then, two passes were made on each wick of a smoothing tongs heated to 210 ° C applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g / min. Each passage is made in 15s. The behavior of the red mother-of-pearl deposited during the process was visually evaluated at 100 after shampooing and after two shampoos.
    [0033] P7 P8 P9 P9 P10 Fold P12 (Invention) To +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ After 1 shampoo - - - ++ - ++ after 2 shampoos - - - + - ++ +++: very high red intensity ++: high red intensity +: average red intensity -: low red intensity: very low red intensity at zero It is observed that the persistence of the red composition on the hair is increased with the steam treatment, remanence increasing with the amount of vapor applied. In particular, it is found that a steam treatment associated with heat increases the persistence of the composition compared to a heat treatment alone. 4) EXAMPLE 4 A strand of natural curly hair which has not undergone any treatment (width indicator) and a wick having undergone various treatments described below in a humid chamber at 80% relative humidity for 24 hours were placed for 24 hours. . The width of these wicks was then measured to evaluate the volume recovery in a humid atmosphere. In particular, these measurements have been carried out for locks for which the following processes P13 to P15 have been implemented.
    [0034] According to a method P13, two passes were made on each strand of a smoothing tweezer heated to 210.degree. According to a method P14, the composition E was applied to the locks of dry hair, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g / g. Then, two passes were made on each wick of a smoothing tweezer heated to 210 ° C.
    [0035] According to a method P15 according to the invention, the composition E was applied to the locks of dry hair, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g / g. Dry steam was then applied to the locks using a device generating steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g / min, due to a passage of the device on each wick, each passage being made in 15 s. Then two passes were made on each wick of a smoothing tweezer heated to 210 ° C. The following results were obtained. Indicator P13 P14 P15 Width 2 * Heat Polymer + 2 * heat Polymer + l * steam + 2 * heat Width (cm) 9.5 9.0 6.0 5.0 It is found that the use of a treatment with the associated polymer With a steam treatment and a heat treatment it is possible to increase the moisture-smoothing performance with respect to a heat treatment alone and also with respect to a treatment with the polymer associated with a heat treatment.
    [0036] The method according to the invention thus makes it possible to reduce the volume of the hair, and this, in a durable manner in a humid environment.
    权利要求:
    Claims (21)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. A method of treating hair which comprises: a) applying to the hair a composition comprising one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups; b) applying to the hair of water vapor by means of a device capable of generating water vapor, step b) being able to precede, follow or be simultaneous with step a).
    [0002]
    2. - Method according to claim 1, characterized in that step b) is subsequent to step a).
    [0003]
    3. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of steam is between, inclusive limits, 0.5 and 60 g / min, preferably 1 and 20 g / min, more preferably 2 and 10 g / min.
    [0004]
    4. - Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a step of heating the hair at a temperature between, inclusive terminals, 50 ° C and 250 ° C, preferably between 90 ° C and 250 ° C, more preferably between 120 ° C and 230 ° C, and most preferably between 150 ° C and 230 ° C, said heating step being able to precede, follow or be simultaneous with step b) of application of water vapor, preferably according to step b) of applying water vapor.
    [0005]
    5. - Process according to claim 4, wherein the heating step is carried out by means of a heating device selected from a straightening iron, a curling iron, a cranberry iron, a vaguest iron, a helmet or a hair dryer, preferably by means of a straightening iron.
    [0006]
    6. - Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the application of steam and heating the hair are implemented by a single device, preferably a device selected from a straightening iron generating steam, a curling iron generating steam, a steaming iron generating steam, a steamy iron generating steam, more preferably by a straightening iron generating steam.
    [0007]
    7. - Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the application of water vapor and heating the hair are implemented by a single device wherein the application of water vapor and heating are dissociated.
    [0008]
    8. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the silicone-bearing polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups have the following formula (I): (I) R 1 -Si -Z 2 Z 3 in which Z2 is -CH2-NR3R4; Z 3 represents a group OR 5 or R 6; - R1 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a group R7; R4 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C5-C6 cycloalkyl group; or - R3 and R4 being able to form, with the nitrogen atom bearing them a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic ring and comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, - R5, R6, R7, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C6 alkyl group; and R a, R b, which are identical or different, represent a Cl-O 2 alkyl group, n represents an integer greater than 1.
    [0009]
    9. - Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the alkyl groups in 0106 are methyl or ethyl groups.
    [0010]
    10. - Process according to any one of claims 8 or 9 wherein R3 and R4 form with the nitrogen atom carrying a 5- to 8-membered heterocycle and having from 1 to 3 heteroatoms.
    [0011]
    11. - Process according to the preceding claim wherein R3 and R4 form with the nitrogen atom which carries them a cyclic group, preferably morpholino and R5 represents an ethyl group.
    [0012]
    12. A process according to any one of claims 8 to 11 wherein n ranges from 1 to 10,000, preferably from 5 to 1000, more preferably from 8 to 400.
    [0013]
    13. - Process according to any one of claims 8 to 12 wherein SiRaRb- [OSiRaRdn- of the formula (I) is a unit derived from a linear silicone with a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 200 to 40000, more preferably 400 to 25000 g / mol.
    [0014]
    14. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone-functional polymer (s) carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), represent from 0.1% to 100%. % by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0015]
    15. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition comprises an organic solvent, the organic solvent is preferably chosen from alcohols, alkanes, esters, silicones and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethanol. , propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, undecane, tridecane, isododecane, isopropyl myristate, ethyl adipate, ethyl acetate, linear low molecular weight silicones or cyclic silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, amino silicones and silicones with alkyl terminal groups, and mixtures thereof, preferably from low molecular weight linear silicones, cyclic silicones, isododecane, undecane, tridecane and isopropanol and their mixtures.
    [0016]
    16. - Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the solvent or solvents represent from 1 to 99.9% and, preferably, from 70 to 99.5% by weight, better still from 70 to 99% by weight relative to the weight. total composition
    [0017]
    17. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 5% water, preferably less than 3% water and preferably is anhydrous.
    [0018]
    18. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it implements one or more catalysts, the catalyst (s) being preferably selected from basic compounds, organic or inorganic, especially ammonia sodium hydroxide, organic or inorganic acids, in particular hydrochloric acid, oleic acid or lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.
    [0019]
    19. - Process according to claim 18, characterized in that the catalyst or catalysts are present in the composition comprising the silicone-functional polymer or polymers bearing alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups.
    [0020]
    20. - Method according to one of claims 18 to 19, characterized in that the catalyst or catalysts are present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, better from 0.01 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (s) containing (s).
    [0021]
    21. - Method according to claim 18, characterized in that the catalyst or catalysts is or are applied to the hair before or after the composition comprising the silicone-functional polymer (s) bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) silyl functional groups, preferably before.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    ES2896259T3|2022-02-24|
    BR112017015477A2|2018-01-30|
    EP3250293B1|2021-08-25|
    KR20170105109A|2017-09-18|
    JP2018503657A|2018-02-08|
    WO2016120334A1|2016-08-04|
    US20180021246A1|2018-01-25|
    CN107405293B|2021-09-14|
    JP6657235B2|2020-03-04|
    EP3250293A1|2017-12-06|
    KR101991662B1|2019-06-25|
    FR3032119B1|2017-01-20|
    US10722450B2|2020-07-28|
    CN107405293A|2017-11-28|
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    法律状态:
    2015-12-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-08-05| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160805 |
    2016-12-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-12-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2019-12-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2020-12-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2021-12-17| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1550706A|FR3032119B1|2015-01-29|2015-01-29|METHOD FOR TREATING HAIR WITH AT LEAST ONE SILICONE FUNCTIONALIZED BY AT LEAST ONE ALCOXYSILANE MOTIF, AND STEAM|FR1550706A| FR3032119B1|2015-01-29|2015-01-29|METHOD FOR TREATING HAIR WITH AT LEAST ONE SILICONE FUNCTIONALIZED BY AT LEAST ONE ALCOXYSILANE MOTIF, AND STEAM|
    BR112017015477-3A| BR112017015477B1|2015-01-29|2016-01-27|HAIR TREATMENT PROCESS|
    PCT/EP2016/051712| WO2016120334A1|2015-01-29|2016-01-27|Process for treating the hair with at least one silicone functionalized with at least one alkoxysilane unit, and steam|
    US15/547,166| US10722450B2|2015-01-29|2016-01-27|Process for treating the hair with at least one silicone functionalized with at least one alkoxysilane unit, and steam|
    EP16701663.3A| EP3250293B1|2015-01-29|2016-01-27|Process for treating the hair with at least one silicone functionalized with at least one alkoxysilane unit, and steam|
    JP2017540121A| JP6657235B2|2015-01-29|2016-01-27|Method of treating hair with at least one silicone and steam functionalized with at least one alkoxysilane unit|
    KR1020177023641A| KR101991662B1|2015-01-29|2016-01-27|Process for treating the hair with at least one silicone functionalized with at least one alkoxysilane unit, and steam|
    ES16701663T| ES2896259T3|2015-01-29|2016-01-27|Process for treating hair with at least one functionalized silicone with at least one alkoxysilane unit, and steam|
    CN201680018797.5A| CN107405293B|2015-01-29|2016-01-27|Method for treating hair with at least one silicone functionalized with at least one alkoxysilane unit and steam|
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