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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a combination of an extract of the plant Salvia milttiorhiza and niacin and / or niacinamide and a cosmetic and / or nutraceutical composition comprising it. The invention further relates to the use of a combination of an extract of the plant Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacin and / or niacinamide to increase the deglycation of the proteins of the Extra-Cellular Matrix, in particular collagen, and / or to increase the expression of collagen to maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to prevent and / or fight against skin aging and / or to maintain and / or increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin. The invention also relates to a cosmetic care method comprising the application, preferably topically, of a composition comprising the combination according to the invention. The invention finally relates to a combination of an extract of Salvia milttiorhiza and niacin and / or niacinamide in a dermatological composition for its use to fight against pathologies involving loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or or mucous membranes and / or scalp and skin defects such as rosacea, telangiectasia, solar elastosis, disease cutix laxa and / or stretch marks. The invention furthermore relates to a dermatological composition comprising the combination according to the invention for increasing the healing of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp.
    公开号:FR3026947A1
    申请号:FR1459767
    申请日:2014-10-10
    公开日:2016-04-15
    发明作者:Valerie Andre；Sabrina Leoty-Okombi；Julie Saget
    申请人:BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, and / or nutraceutical ingredient and its use for increasing the deglycation of collagen and / or increasing the expression of collagen, in particular for maintaining and / or increasing firmness and / or or the elasticity of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to prevent and / or fight against skin aging and / or to maintain and / or increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin. Glycation is a non-enzymatic glycosylation mechanism consisting of the covalent attachment of a reducing sugar to a protein, a lipid or a nucleic acid. This mechanism leads to the appearance of macromolecules known as "AGEs" for "Advanced Glycosylated Endproducts". These molecules are formed in vivo in humans but are also provided by the diet during the food preparation by heating. This chemical process of glycation also known as the Maillard reaction, takes place in three stages: (a) the formation of a Schiff base, which results from the fixation of a reducing sugar or an aldehyde on the amino residues of the proteins, in particular the lysine at the N-terminal part, (b) a so-called Amadori molecular rearrangement, which results from an isomerization of the Schiff base. The synthesis rate of these Amadori products is proportional to the sugar concentration, and (c) the accumulation of AGEs by successive rearrangements, hydrogen transfers and synthesis of reactive intermediates. The synthesis rate of these products is not proportional to the concentration of sugar in the medium but is a function of the protein turnover. The first two stages of this mechanism are reversible, the last is irreversible. This natural chemical mechanism plays a preponderant role in cell aging, especially skin aging. Especially in the extracellular matrix 3026947 2 (MEC), the glycation mechanism decreases the functionality of proteins such as collagen and elastin but it also prevents their renewal. The formation of molecular bridges between the collagen fibers will make these fibers rigid. This mechanism also occurs at the level of the wall of blood vessels, tendons and skeletal muscles. In fact, glycation is implicated in various diseases related to diabetes and aging such as cardiovascular disease or arthritis. During skin aging, the glycation mechanism will cause a loss of firmness, an aging of the skin related to the appearance of wrinkles, but also the appearance of a scruffy and yellow complexion, especially in the face. These factors will be accentuated by extrinsic factors such as excessive exposure of the skin to ultraviolet light, tobacco, menopause, a diet rich in sugars and / or fats, but also certain dermatological pathologies. Some active ingredients are known to act on the first 2 stages of glycation, reversible. These active ingredients are classically described as anti-glycation compounds. Examples of such molecules are aminoguanidine, pyridoxamine or pioglitazone, and pentoxyfylline. Resveratrol and Curcumin (Curcuma longa) also showed their inhibitory properties on AGE formation. However, once formed, AGEs will accumulate irreversibly. There is therefore a real need to isolate active ingredients capable of acting on this latter step of the mechanism of glycation. Some of these active ingredients are already known in the prior art. We speak classically of "AGEs breakers", in other words of degenerating active ingredients. These are ingredients possessing a nucleophilic attack capacity, capable of breaking the molecular bridges established between the glycated proteins and thus reversing the Maillard reaction. Examples of this type of molecule are metformin (dimethylbiguanide), L-bis-4 [- (4-chlorobenzamidophenoxyisobutyryl) cystine, 4- (3,5-dichlorophenylureido) -phenoxyisobutyryl-1-amidocyclohexane-1 Carboxylic acid or 1,4-benzene-bis [4-methyleneaminophenoxyisobutyric acid]. An extract of Rosmarinus officinalis showed its deglycation properties. The Applicant has also described in its patent application under number FR0756350 the reversion properties of the glycation reaction of several active ingredients, 10 molecules and plant active extracts. There is thus a constant need in the fields of cosmetics, pharmacy, particularly dermatology, and nutraceuticals, to provide new alternative ingredients to these chemical molecules and these known active ingredients, which are natural active ingredients. able to effectively degenerate AGEs, especially the proteins of the ECM. The object of the present invention is to provide a new cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, and / or nutraceutical ingredient of the "AGE breaker" type, capable of increasing the deglycation of proteins, in particular proteins present at the level of GUY. It is a question of providing a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, and / or nutraceutical ingredient for increasing the deglycation of ECM proteins, in particular for maintaining and / or increasing the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin. and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or prevent and / or fight against skin aging and / or maintain and / or increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin.
    [0002] Surprisingly, the inventors have discovered that the combination of an extract of the plant Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacin and / or one of its derivatives, niacinamide, makes it possible to increase the deglycation of the proteins of the MEK, in particular the collagen, more effectively than the extract of S. miltiorrhiza alone or niacin and / or niacinamide alone, respectively. This combination has a particularly surprising and unexpected synergistic effect. One of the advantages of the combination according to the invention is that it also increases the expression of collagen quite unexpectedly, more effectively than, respectively, the extract of the S. miltiorrhiza plant alone or that the niacin and / or niacinamide, alone. Another advantage of this combination is that it increases the radiance of the complexion of the skin. On the other hand, the ingredient according to the present invention can be used in a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological and / or nutraceutical composition. It is easily formulated, orally and / or topically acceptable for the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, while being otherwise chemically stable. The advantage of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical ingredient, in particular a dermatological and / or natural nutraceutical ingredient that can easily be produced on an industrial scale. Red sage (Salvia miltiorrhiza) is a plant native to Asia, particularly present in China, Korea, Mongolia and Vietnam. Its roots are known for their beneficial effects on cardiovascular metabolism, in this case in the prevention of vascular and cardiac dysfunctions, cerebral thromboses and hypertension. Treatment of insomnia and anxiety by this plant has also been reported.
    [0003] Salvia miltiorrhiza is a plant whose roots are known for their anti-glycation activity but it is in fact an inhibitory preparation of alpha-glucosidase (Ma et al., 2011, 65 (1): 37 -42, J. Nat Med.). Niacin (pyridine-3-carboxylic acid) (CAS No. 59-67-6) is an organic compound of the formula C6H5NO2. It is one of the essential nutrients of the human body, essential for the synthesis of co-enzymes NAD and NADP. Niacinamide (CAS No. 98-92-0) (C6H6NO2) or nicotinamide corresponds to the amide derivative of niacin. In vivo, niacin is converted to niacinamide. If the two molecules have similar vitamin functions, their pharmacological properties are different. Thus, niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties but does not have the known vasodilator or lipid-lowering effect of niacin. The presence of niacin is also known in cosmetic or dermatological compositions as a vitamin supplement. Japanese Patent Application JP2003012495 discloses a composition which may contain a combination of a nicotinic acid or a derivative thereof and a plant extract, among which is mentioned a plant extract of the genus Salvia, with no specification as to the particular species used, said genus comprising more than 250 species, for treating atopic dermatitis. However, to our knowledge, an extract of S. miltiorrhiza and niacin and / or niacinamide have never been combined for the production of a cosmetic ingredient and / or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, and / or nutraceutical, nor their use described to increase the deglycation of ECM proteins, in particular collagen, or to increase the expression of collagen in order to maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or leather 3026947 6 hair and / or prevent and / or fight against skin aging, nor to maintain and / or increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin. Thus, the present invention firstly relates to a combination of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacin and / or niacinamide. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "extract of S. miltiorrhiza" means an extract of all or part of the plant chosen from the whole plant, the aerial parts, the root, the rhizome, the seeds, the flowers, the petals, sepals, leaves, fruit, stem and / or any of their combination. Preferably, the extract according to the invention is an extract of the aerial parts of the plant, more preferably an extract of leaves. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aerial parts" means a mixture of leaves and stem of the plant. Alternatively, the extract according to the invention is an extract of roots.
    [0004] The S. miltiorrhiza extract according to the invention is obtained by any conventional plant extraction method known to those skilled in the art. The whole plant or part of the plant concerned is thus dried and / or milled before extraction. The extraction can be carried out by maceration, by hot decoction, by grinding with a ball mill, grinding with the mortar, with ultrasound, by grinding with a mixer or by extraction with subcritical or supercritical conditions (carbon dioxide). Preferably, the extraction is carried out by maceration. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract of S. miltiorrhiza is obtained by maceration of at least part of the plant, preferably the leaves, in a solvent or a mixture of solvents, preferably a solvent. protic polar, and preferably in water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol mixture, water / glycol or water / polyol (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols, such as xylitol etc.) from 100/0 to 0/100 (p / w). More preferably, the solvent used consists of water only. In particular, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight. weight, more particularly at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more advantageously not containing any glycol and in particular not containing alcohol, more particularly containing only water. The extraction can be carried out for a period ranging from 1 hour to 20 hours, preferably from 2 hours to 16 hours. More preferably, the extraction is carried out for a period of 2 hours. The extraction may be carried out at a temperature of between 0 ° C. and 80 ° C., preferably between 0 ° C. and 25 ° C., more preferably between 4 ° C. and 20 ° C. Even more preferably, the extraction is carried out at ambient temperature, that is to say at 20 ° C. In one embodiment of the invention, niacin (CAS No. 59-67-6) and / or niacinamide (CAS No. 98-92-0) is prepared by dissolving in a solvent or a mixture of solvents, preferably a polar protic solvent, and preferably in water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol mixture, water / glycol or water / polyol (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols, such as xylitol etc.) from 100/0 to 0/100 (v / v). More preferably, the solvent used consists of water only.
    [0005] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, niacin and / or niacinamide is added in powder form concomitantly with the preparation of the extract of S. miltiorrhiza. In this case, niacin and / or niacinamide is added at a concentration of between 1.10-7% and 10%, preferably between 1.10-5% and 5%, more preferably between 1.10-1% and 3%, and more preferably more preferably to 1.3%, by weight relative to the total weight of the combination (w / w). In an alternative embodiment of the invention, niacin and / or niacinamide is added in powder form at the end of the preparation of Salvia miltiorrhiza extract, at a concentration of between 1.10-7% and 10%. preferably between 1.10-5% and 5%, more preferably between 1.10-1% and 3%, and even more preferably at 1.3%, by weight relative to the total weight of the combination (w / w). In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the combination according to the invention is a combination of niacin and / or niacinamide and an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza, said extract being obtained by extraction in a solvent, at a concentration between 1 to 10%, preferably between 1% and 5%, more preferably between 2% and 3%, by weight of fresh material of at least a part of the plant relative to the total weight of the part. plant and solvent. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the combination is a combination of niacin and / or niacinamide and an aqueous extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza for which said extract is obtained by maceration in water with stirring at room temperature, that is, at 20 ° C, for a period of 2 hours, 2.6% ground leaves of Salvia miltiorrhiza by weight based on the total weight of the leaves and water, and niacin and / or niacinamide is added concomitantly during the maceration to a final concentration of 1.3% by weight based on the total weight of the mixture water, leaves and niacin and / or niacinamide, as described in Example 1a ).
    [0006] In another embodiment of the invention, the combination is a combination of niacin and / or niacinamide and an aqueous extract of S. miltiorrhiza obtained by maceration in water with stirring at 4 ° C., during a 16 hour period, 2.6% ground leaves of S. miltiorrhiza by weight based on the total weight of the leaves and water, niacin and / or niacinamide being added concomitantly during maceration at a final concentration of 1.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of water, leaves and niacin and / or niacinamide, as described in Example 1 b).
    [0007] In yet another embodiment of the invention, the combination is a combination of niacin and / or niacinamide and an extract of S. miltiorrhiza obtained by maceration with stirring in a 75% water / butylene glycol mixture. 25% (w / w) at room temperature, i.e. at 20 ° C, for a period of 2 hours, 2.6% ground leaves of S. miltiorrhiza by weight based on total weight leaves and water / butylene glycol mixture, niacin and / or niacinamide being added concomitantly during the maceration to a final concentration of 1.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the water / butylene glycol mixture, leaves and niacin and / or niacinamide, as described in Example 1c).
    [0008] The combination may also be a combination of niacin and / or niacinamide and an extract of S. miltiorrhiza obtained by maceration with stirring in water of crushed roots at room temperature, that is to say at 20 ° C. C, for a period of 2 hours at a final concentration of 2.6% roots by weight based on the total weight of the water and roots, niacin and / or niacinamide being added concomitantly during the maceration at a final concentration of 1.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the water, root and niacin and / or niacinamide mixture, as described in Example 1d). The combination thus obtained is then centrifuged and / or filtered in order to recover the active soluble fraction (crude extract), preferably the water-soluble fraction. Additional steps of bleaching and / or deodorization can be performed on the combination at any stage of extraction and according to techniques known to those skilled in the art. Preferably, the combination is filtered on a grid (250 μm) and then ultrafiltered. Thus, particularly advantageously, the combination according to the invention is a combination of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza leaves, preferably an extract obtained by aqueous extraction, and niacin and / or niacinamide.
    [0009] The invention furthermore relates to the use of a combination of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacin and / or niacinamide according to the invention for increasing the deglycation of ECM proteins and / or increasing the expression of collagen in particular to maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to prevent and / or fight against skin aging and / or to maintain and / or increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin. Preferably, the combination increases the deglycation of collagen, preferably human collagen, and more preferably type I collagen, in particular human collagen. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or elasticity", an increase for aesthetic purposes of the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes. and / or scalp which have lost firmness and / or elasticity, in particular due to intrinsic factors such as aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, that is, chronoinduced aging, which is found, for example, in so-called mature skin, that is to say the skin of persons over 40 years of age, cellular stress, non-pathological physiological variations such as Dietary changes, hormonal variations, especially during puberty, pregnancy, menopause, andropause. This loss of firmness and / or elasticity may also appear under the effect of extrinsic factors such as aggressive agents of the environment such as UV radiation, pollution, fumes, tobacco, toxins, climatic and / or mechanical aggressions. It may especially be the care and / or cosmetic treatment of the unsightly and / or uncomfortable appearance of stretch marks. The increase in firmness can be measured according to the standard methods, especially by in vivo measurement using a cutometer, a densiscore, a torquemeter or a dynaskin associated with a dermatop. The increase in elasticity can be measured according to conventional methods, especially by in vivo measurement, using a cutometer, a ballistometer, a torquemeter, a corneovacuometer or a densiscore. . The increase of the elasticity can in particular be measured by conventional methods of measuring the ability of the skin to return to its initial state after torsion and / or deformation. The so-called fringe projection method will also make it possible to measure wrinkles in vivo.
    [0010] For the purposes of the present invention, "cutaneous aging" is understood to mean the chronobiological aging observed in the skin of so-called mature skin as defined above, but also photobiological aging, that is to say induced by radiation. UV. Skin aging is manifested by the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, by the appearance of crow's feet but also by a loss of firmness and / or elasticity as defined above. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "maintain and / or increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin" means to maintain a skin, in particular not dull, luminous, and / or to diminish the yellowish appearance of the skin and / or to increase the brightness of the skin, advantageously by homogenizing the complexion and / or giving it a luminous, radiant, healthy and / or nourished appearance, a good-looking effect. Indeed, the radiance of the complexion reflects a state of good health of the skin. Many intrinsic or extrinsic factors can cause a fuzzy, inhomogeneous complexion, including stress, fatigue, hormonal changes, dehydration of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis, pollutants and chronobiological and photobiological aging. These factors tend to blur the complexion, make it dull, waxy, even sickly. In particular, the yellowish appearance of the skin is in particular induced by the presence in the dermis of glycated proteins. The measurement of the brightness of the complexion and / or the brightness of the skin can for example be measured by chromametry or by image analysis. The latter method of in vivo measurement consists of taking high resolution cross-polarized photographs of the face of volunteers taken at 45 ° before and after application of the tested product. On the basis of these digital photographs, an image analysis makes it possible to extract and to quantify specific parameters (for example: L *, a *, b *, C, h °) related to the color, the brightness, the homogeneity, and the texture of the skin.
    [0011] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mucosa (s)", the ocular mucosa, the vaginal mucosa, the urogenital mucosa and / or the oral mucosa, in particular the oral labial mucosa and / or the gingival mucosa, preferentially, the ocular and / or oral mucosa, and even more preferentially, the labial and / or ocular mucosa.
    [0012] In a particular embodiment, the combination according to the invention is applied topically to specific body parts selected from the neck, décolleté, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist and or the face, in particular the contour of the eyes and / or the lips, the forehead and / or the temporal zones of the scalp, in particular for the uses defined above.
    [0013] The combination of the extract of S. miltiorrhiza and niacin and / or niacinamide according to the invention is a combination cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, and / or nutraceutical. It can be administered orally, especially in capsule form, or in topical form. It is orally and / or topically acceptable. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "orally and / or topically acceptable" means a combination suitable for oral and / or topical application, which is non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp, not inducing an allergic response, which is not chemically unstable. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topical application" of an ingredient and / or a combination, the direct local application and / or the vaporization of the ingredient and / or combination on the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "increase the deglycation of ECM proteins" at the level of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, reduce the amount of glycated proteins at the level of the ECM, which In particular, it can be measured by the reduction in the amount of carboxymethyllysine (CML), a known marker of AGE synthesis, formed when a protein of ECM previously glycated via a reducing sugar is brought into contact with the combination according to the invention. The term "reducing sugar" means ribose, glucose, fructose, xylose and their metabolites, such as glyoxal, methylglyoxal, preferably ribose. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "ECM proteins" is understood to mean collagen, elastin, fibulin, fibronectin and laminin, preferentially collagen and elastin, more preferably collagen, more preferentially collagen. human, and even more preferably type I collagen, in particular human.
    [0014] For the purposes of the present invention, collagen is understood to refer to collagen type I and / or III and / or IV and / or V and / or VI and / or VII and / or XII and / or XIII and / or XIV and / or XVI and / or XVII and / or (XIV and / or XXIX, in particular present in the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp.
    [0015] Preferably, it is collagen type I and / or III and / or V, in particular present in the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, and more preferably collagen type I, in particular present in the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp. Within the meaning of the present invention, the combination according to the invention is considered to be in an amount effective to increase the deglycation of collagen when the amount of CML measured in the presence of human collagen type I glycated with ribose, under the conditions described. according to Example 2, is decreased by at least 15%, more preferably by at least 20%, even more preferably by at least 25%, relative to the amount of CML measured when said glycated collagen with ribose is incubated without combination. The combination of Salvia miltiorrhiza extract and niacin and / or niacinamide has a synergistic effect on the deglycation of human type I collagen. For the purposes of the present invention, the synergistic effect corresponds to a decrease in the amount of CML measured in the presence of the combination of Salvia miltiorrhiza extract and niacin and / or niacinamide, of at least 2%. preferably at least 5%, still more preferably at least 10% more than when the Salvia miltiorrhiza extract is incubated alone without niacin and without niacinamide and when niacin and / or niacinamide in solution is incubated only under the same conditions, in the presence of type I human collagen glycated with ribose without the Salvia miltiorrhiza extract, according to the conditions described in Example 2. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "increase the amount of expression of collagen, the increase in gene expression, ie the increase in messenger RNAs, and / or the protein increase in collagen, preferentially the protein increase in collagen, and more p referentially collagen type I, especially at the level of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp.
    [0016] Within the meaning of the present invention, the combination according to the invention is considered to be in an amount effective to increase the expression of collagen when the increase in collagen expression is at least 5%, more preferably at least 20%, even more preferably at least 40%, relative to the level of expression measured in the absence of the combination according to the invention. Preferably, it is an increase in the protein expression of human type I collagen obtained from fibroblasts derived from abdominal biopsies, measured according to the protocol of Example 3 in the presence of the combination of the extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza and Niacin leaves prepared according to Example la. The combination of Salvia miltiorrhiza extract and niacin and / or niacinamide also has a synergistic effect on the increase of protein expression of collagen. Here, the term "synergistic effect on the increase of collagen protein expression" means an increase in the protein expression of human type I collagen by at least 20%, preferably by at least 25% of more than the level of protein expression of said collagen measured according to Example 3 in the presence of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza alone, that is to say without niacin and without niacinamide, and measured in the presence of niacin and / or of niacinamide alone without Salvia miltiorrhiza extract. In one embodiment of the invention, the combination according to the invention is considered to be in an amount effective to increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin when the decrease in yellowing of the skin is at least 3% preferably at least 5% after 112 days relative to the application time of a cream containing the combination according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, this decrease in yellowing of the skin is measured by evaluating the decrease in the fluorescence of the skin at a wavelength of 370 nm (exc) / 475 nm (em) measured. by chromametry (parameter b *) on the hemisivage of Caucasian women under the conditions set out in Example 5. In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the decrease in the fluorescence of the skin is evaluated by image analysis. . Preferably then, the decrease in the fluorescence is then at least 5%, preferably at least 8% after 118 days relative to the application time of a cream containing the combination according to the invention, according to the conditions set forth in Example 5.
    [0017] An object of the present invention therefore relates to the cosmetic and / or nutraceutical use of the combination according to the invention. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic use and / or nutraceutical" means a non-therapeutic use, that is to say that is not intended for therapeutic use for treatment. The use according to the present invention therefore relates to parts of the body and / or healthy cells. "Healthy body parts" means "normal" body parts, that is to say parts described as non-pathological by a dermatologist and / or a doctor, which do not require a therapeutic treatment, which do not exhibit infection, disease or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis. The term "healthy cell" means a "normal" cell, that is to say non-pathological, especially non-cancerous and that does not require therapeutic treatment.
    [0018] Thus, the combination of Salvia miltiorrhiza extract and niacin and / or niacinamide can be used alone in the form of an active ingredient or in a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, and / or nutraceutical composition.
    [0019] When used as an active ingredient, the combination according to the invention is preferentially soluble and dissolved in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, or a mixture thereof. preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol selected from caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the combination according to the invention is dissolved in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, in particular containing between 0.01 and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol and between 0.01 and 10% by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 0.5% and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol and between 0.1% and 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight the aqueous solution. Preferably, the concentration of caprylyl glycol is 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution and the concentration of hexylene glycol is 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. Preferably, the active ingredient according to the present invention also contains xanthan gum at a concentration of between 0.01 and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 1%, more preferably 0.5%, by weight relative to to the total weight of the aqueous solution, according to example 6. In an advantageous embodiment, the combination according to the invention is solubilized or dissolved in an aqueous solution containing, in addition, hexylene glycol, preferably in an amount of 0.5%, caprylyl glycol, preferably in a content of 1%, and xanthan gum, preferably in a content of 0.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. In a particular embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient comprising the combination of the extract of S. miltiorrhiza and niacin and / or niacinamide is sterilized. Preferably, the active ingredient is present in a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, preferentially dermatological, and / or nutraceutical composition at a concentration of between 3% and 5%, more preferably 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of the 10 composition. In a particularly advantageous manner, the extract of S. miltiorrhiza according to the invention, preferably obtained by aqueous extraction, and niacin and / or niacinamide are present in the active ingredient as defined above at a final concentration between 0. 25% and 5% of S. miltiorrhiza extract, preferably 0.25%, and between 1% and 5%, preferably 1.2% of niacin, by weight relative to the total weight of the active ingredient. Another subject of the invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or nutraceutical composition comprising the combination according to the invention, optionally in the form of an active ingredient, and at least one cosmetically and / or nutraceutically acceptable excipient. In one embodiment of the invention, the composition is an orally administrable nutraceutical composition comprising the combination of the invention. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "nutraceutical composition" means a composition that can be administered as a non-therapeutic food supplement. The nutraceutical composition also contains at least one nutraceutically acceptable excipient, that is to say, orally administrable as already defined in the present invention.
    [0020] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferentially applicable topically. The S. miltiorrhizae extract according to the invention is thus present in the cosmetic and / or nutraceutical composition at a final concentration of between 1.10-4% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously between 1.10%. -4% and 5%, more preferably between 1.10-3% and 5%, and particularly between 0.01% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0021] Niacin and / or niacinamide is present in the cosmetic and / or nutraceutical composition at a final concentration of between 1.10-7% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously between 1.10-4% and 5% by weight. %, more preferably between 1.10-3% and 5%, and especially between 0.01% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. Advantageously, said excipient or excipients are chosen from at least one of the groups consisting of preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturizing agents, film-forming agents, pigments, stabilizers, solubilizers, dyes, perfumes. Advantageously, the excipient or excipients are chosen from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gums, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, plant esters, silicones and its derivatives, protein hydrolysates, Jojoba oil and its derivatives, lipo / water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, thylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerine, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxyketyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystate, capric / caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, Beeswax, glycerides of hydrogenated palm heart oil, lanolin oil, oil sesame, cetyl lacta te, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, saline isotonic solution. The composition of the invention may be chosen from an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo, a milk, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-oil or multiple or silicone, a mask, a serum, a lotion, a liquid soap, a dermatological bread, an ointment, a mousse, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, stick or stick, especially in the form of lipstick. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a cream or a serum. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a cream or a serum, intended to be applied to specific body parts selected from the neck, décolleté, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks. , the size and / or the face, in particular the contour of the eyes and / or the lips, the forehead and / or the temporal zones of the scalp, and preferentially the nasolabial folds, the periorbital zone, in particular the dark circles and the legs geese.
    [0022] In addition, the cosmetic and / or nutraceutical composition of the present invention may contain one or more other cosmetic and / or nutraceutical active ingredients, leading to a complementary effect and / or a synergistic effect with the combination according to the invention. These may be, for example, "disintegrating" active cosmetic ingredients and / or "anti-glycation" such as an extract of Davilla rugosa marketed under the name of Collguard Tm by BASF Beauty Care Solutions; an extract of leaves of the plant Manilkara multinervisun marketed under the name of Elestan TM; extract of Rosmarinus officinalis, in particular an extract of leaves, for example marketed in the form of capsules; a leaf extract of Argania spinosa marketed under the name Arganyl Tm by the Applicant, a plant extract of the genus Hemerocallis, in particular of flower; another plant extract of the genus Salvia, in particular Salvia officinalis, Salvia sclarea or Salvia pratensis; an extract of Helianthus annuus, in particular seeds or an extract of the seaweed Hypnea musciformis. The term "active anti-glycation active ingredients" is understood to mean active ingredients capable of inhibiting the glycation reaction, that is to say of inhibiting the formation of AGEs. It may also be anti-aging active ingredients and / or tensing agents for a synergistic effect with the active ingredient of the invention.
    [0023] Advantageously, these are active ingredients increasing the gene expression and / or protein of collagen and / or preventing the degradation of said collagen such as retinol, vitamin C, an extract of Quassia amara or an extract of Davilla rugosa marketed under the name Collguard Tm by BASF Beauty Care Solutions, a Hibiscus abelmoschus seed extract marketed under the name LinefactorTM, a peptide marketed under the name Dermican TM by the Applicant or the products marketed under the names of Matrixyl Tm, Matrixyl 3000 Tm and Regestril TM by Sederma. It may also be anti-wrinkle active agents for maintaining and / or increasing the elasticity of the skin, such as a dill extract marketed under the name Lyslastine TM by the Applicant. Finally, they may be agents stimulating the activity or the proliferation of fibroblasts, such as a modified soy protein extract sold under the name Phytokine TM by the Applicant.
    [0024] The tensing agents that can be used in the invention can also be chosen from synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane or acrylic latexes, polymers of natural origin, especially polyholosides in the form of starch or in the form of carrageenans. alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins, proteins and hydrolysates of soy vegetable proteins, mixed silicates, wax microparticles, colloidal particles of inorganic filler chosen for example from silica, silica-alumina composites; as well as their mixtures. Finally, it may be cosmetic and / or dermatological ingredients such as, for example, antimicrobial agents, anti-radical agents, soothing, calming or relaxing agents, agents acting on the microcirculation to increase the radiance of the complexion, in particular the skin. face, healing agents. Among the antimicrobial agents that may be associated with the active ingredient of the invention in the present invention are 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4 , 4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerine, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, farnesol, phytosphingosines and their m diapers. The anti-radical agents may be vitamin C and its derivatives, including ascorbyl glucoside, phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing them, in particular green tea extracts, anthocyanins, phenol acids, stilbenes, scavengers of mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds tannins such as ellagic acid and derivatives thereof indoles and / or heavy metal scavenging active agents such as EDTA, anti-free radical active agents such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, bioflavonoids, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone. The cosmetic and / or nutraceutical composition of the present invention may also contain one or more anti-radical and / or antioxidant agents such as an extract of Rhodiola crenulata root marketed under the name RhodiomaxTM by the Applicant.
    [0025] As the soothing agents used in the composition of the invention, it is possible to use pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, and the salts of the acid. salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, omega 3 unsaturated oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta-methasone, anti-inflammatory active agents, and especially those described in the application FR2847267, in particular the extract of Pueraria lobata root marketed under the name InhipaseTM by the applicant, the extracts of Theobroma cacao. The active ingredients acting on the microcirculation, vasoprotectives or vasodilators, may be chosen from flavonoids, ruscogenins, nicotinates, essential oils. The invention furthermore relates to the use of the cosmetic and / or nutraceutical composition according to the invention for increasing the deglycation of collagen and / or increasing the expression of collagen to maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or the elasticity of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, and / or to prevent and / or fight against skin aging and / or to maintain and / or increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin.
    [0026] In particular, collagen is type I collagen. Advantageously, the composition is applied topically to specific body parts selected from neck, décolleté, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks. , the size and / or the face, in particular the contour of the eyes and / or lips, forehead and / or temporal areas of the scalp. The invention furthermore relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application, preferably topically, of the combination according to the invention or of the cosmetic or nutraceutical composition according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic treatment method comprises the application to a zone of skin and / or mucosa and / or scalp, preferably topically, of the combination according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention comprising the combination according to the invention for increasing the deglycation of collagen and / or increasing the expression of collagen, in particular for maintaining and / or increasing the firmness and / or elasticity of the collagen. skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or to prevent and / or fight against skin aging and / or to maintain and / or increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin.
    [0027] Preferably, the cosmetic care process is characterized in that the zone of skin and / or mucosa and / or scalp is chosen at least from the neck, décolleté, belly, arms, thighs, hips, the buttocks, the size and / or the face, in particular the contour of the eyes and / or the lips, the forehead and / or the temporal zones of the scalp, and preferentially the nasolabial folds, the periorbital zone, in particular the dark circles and crow's feet. Preferentially, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention is characterized in that the zone of skin and / or mucosa and / or scalp is a healthy zone, that is to say consisting essentially of an area consisting of healthy cells as previously defined in the present invention. Preferably, the population of individuals targeted by the cosmetic care process is a "normal" population, that is to say healthy, which does not require a therapeutic treatment, in particular a treatment against cancer.
    [0028] The invention finally relates to the combination of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacin and / or niacinamide according to the invention as an active ingredient, as well as a pharmaceutical composition, especially dermatological, comprising it for its use, preferentially topically, to increase the deglycation of collagen and / or to increase the expression of collagen, preferentially type I collagen, and / or to prevent and / or fight against pathologies involving a loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, especially such as rosacea, telangiectasia, solar elastosis, cutix laxa disease and / or stretch marks. A final subject of the invention relates to a pharmaceutical composition, preferably dermatological, and still more preferably applicable topically, comprising the combination according to the invention for increasing the healing of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or leather. scalp.
    [0029] Examples referring to the description of the invention are given below. These examples are given by way of illustration and can not in any way limit the scope of the invention. Each of the examples is general in scope. The examples are an integral part of the present invention and any feature which appears new in relation to any prior art from the description as a whole, including the examples, is an integral part of the invention. EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of Different Combinations of Salvia Miltiorrhiza Extract and / or Niacin According to the Invention Example 1 a) Salvia miltiorrhiza leaves were crushed and then macerated with stirring in water at room temperature, here 20 ° C, for a period of 2 hours, at a final content of 2.6% by weight of fresh material relative to the total weight of the leaves, niacin and water. An addition of niacin in powder form, concomitant with the maceration stage was carried out, the final concentration of niacin being 1.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the leaves, niacin and water . The combination thus obtained was then filtered on a grid (250 μm) and then ultrafiltered.
    [0030] The aqueous extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza leaves obtained under the conditions described above, without the concomitant addition of niacin on the one hand, the niacin as obtained above, without extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza leaves on the other hand as well as the combination described above were used to test their deglycation activity (Example 2).
    [0031] Example 1 b) Salvia miltiorrhiza leaves were crushed and macerated with stirring in water at a temperature of 4 ° C for a period of 16 hours at a final concentration of 2.6%. by weight of fresh material in relation to the total weight of the leaves, niacin and water. A concomitant niacin addition to the maceration step was performed, the final concentration of niacin being 1.3% by weight based on the total weight of the leaves, niacin and water. The resulting combination was then screen filtered (250 μm) and then ultrafiltered. Example 1c) Salvia miltiorrhiza leaves were crushed and then macerated in a water / butylene glycol mixture (75/25; (v / v)) with stirring at room temperature, here 20 ° C., for a period of 2 hours at a final concentration of 2.6% by weight of fresh material based on the total weight of the leaves, niacin and solvent mixture. A concomitant niacin addition to the maceration step was made at a final concentration of 1.3% by weight based on the total weight of the leaves, niacin and solvent mixture. The resulting combination was then screen-filtered (250 μm) and ultrafiltered. Example 1d) Roots of Salvia miltiorrhiza were crushed and then macerated with stirring in water at room temperature, here 20 ° C, for a period of 2 hours, at a final concentration of 2.6% by weight of 25%. fresh material in relation to the total weight of the roots of Salvia miltiorrhiza, niacin and water (w / w). A concomitant niacin addition to the maceration step was made at a final concentration of 1.3% by weight based on the total weight of the roots of Salvia miltiorrhiza, niacin and water (w / w). The combination thus obtained was then screen filtered (250 μm) and ultrafiltered.
    [0032] EXAMPLE 2 Demonstration of the activity of the combination Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacin according to the invention. Method: The deglycation activity of the tested samples was measured by enzyme immunoassay (ELISA) from the amount of carboxymethyllysine (CML) detected in the presence of type I human collagen glycated with ribose, as described below. Human type I collagen was extracted from a biopsy from abdominal surgery of a healthy donor and then glycated in tubo at 30 ° C with ribose (1M).
    [0033] The aqueous extract of S. miltiorrhiza leaves prepared under the conditions and concentration shown in Example 1 a) but without the addition of niacin and diluted in PBS (Phosphate Buffer Saline) buffer to obtain the final concentrations in the medium presented in Table 1 (`) / 0 w / w) or niacin from powder diluted in PBS buffer at various final concentrations (w / w) or the combination of the aqueous leaf extract of S. miltiorrhiza and of niacin obtained according to Example 1 a) diluted in PBS buffer to obtain the final concentrations in the medium shown in Table 1 (`) / 0 w / w), were incubated for 24 hours at a temperature of 30 ° C with glycated collagen. A negative control was prepared in the same way by incubating under the same conditions the collagen previously glycated with PBS buffer alone, without product to be tested. The mixture was then plated on a 96-well triplicate microplate (n = 3). A primary anti-CML antibody was added to the solution and then the solution was incubated at 25 ° C with shaking. After washing with PBS buffer, a secondary anti-collagen antibody was added to the medium and then the medium was incubated again at 25 ° C. The media was then incubated with shaking in the dark for 8 minutes at 25 ° C. A solution containing sulfuric acid (H2504) was added to the medium to stop the reaction and then the optical density was read spectrophotometer at 450 nm.
    [0034] Results: Several concentrations of niacin alone were tested, as well as several concentrations of S. miltiorrhiza extract prepared according to Example 1 a) alone. Finally, the combination prepared according to Example 1a) was tested at the concentrations shown in Table 1. The results are expressed in the amount (pg / mL) of mean CMC measured in the samples, as well as in percent of average CML. present relative to the percentage of CML present in the negative control. Table 1. CML sample (pg / mL) CML vs negative control Negative control (-) 0.38 100 Niacin 1,2.10-3 `) / 0 (w / w) 0.356 94 Niacin 3.10-3% (w / w) 0.344 90.52 Niacin 6.10-3% (w / w) 0.36 95 Extract Salvia miltiorrhiza (Ex. 1 a) 0.10% (w / w) 0.36 95 Extract Salvia miltiorrhiza (Ex 1 a) 0.25 °) / 0 (w / w) 0.368 96.8 Extract Salvia miltiorrhiza (Ex. 1 a) 0.50 °) / 0 (w / w) 0.35 92 Extract Salvia miltiorrhiza (Ex 0.10% (w / w) and niacin 0.316 * 83 * 1.2.10-3 `) / 0 (w / w) Extract Salvia miltiorrhiza (Ex la) 0.25 °) / 0 (p / p) p) and niacin 0.31 * 82 * 3.10-3 `) / 0 (w / w) Extract Salvia miltiorrhiza (Ex la) 0.50`) / 0 (w / w) and niacin 0.28 ** 74 ** 6.10-3 `) / 0 (p / p) (One way annova Dunn test: * pvalue <0.05; *** p <0.01) 10 Conclusion: Table 1 showed that niacin alone in solution does not reduce the concentration of CML present. Salvia miltiorrhiza leaf extract prepared according to Example 1 a) alone does not reduce the concentration of CML present, regardless of the concentration of plant extract. However, the combination of the aqueous extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza leaves and niacin prepared according to Example 1 a) significantly reduces the concentration of CML present, demonstrating the synergistic effect of the combination according to the invention. Example 3: Increased expression of type I collagen in the presence of the combination according to the invention. Method: The experimental conditions for demonstrating the increase in protein expression of type I collagen are those set forth in Example 1 of the international application published under No. WO2012 / 175454. Normal, i.e. non-cancerous, human fibroblasts obtained from abdominal biopsies of a healthy donor were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in a defined medium (FGM) up to 100% confluency.
    [0035] The aqueous extract of S. miltiorrhiza leaves prepared under the conditions and concentration shown in Example 1 a) but without adding niacin and diluted in PBS buffer to obtain the final concentrations in the medium shown in Table 2 ( ) / Ni / p) or niacin prepared from powder and diluted in PBS buffer at different final concentrations (w / w) or the combination of the aqueous leaf extract of S. miltiorrhiza and niacin obtained according to Example 1 a) diluted in PBS buffer to obtain the final concentrations in the medium shown in Table 2 (% w / w), were then added to the culture medium. The same culture medium without addition of extract, niacin or combination was used as a control (Negative Control). The same medium with addition of vitamin C solution (50 μM) was used as a positive control. After 48 hours of post-confluence culture at 37 ° C, the culture medium was removed and removed. A lysis step of the cells was performed and the lysate was removed and analyzed. A DNA assay was performed on the lysates to express protein expression of collagen per cell.
    [0036] The double-stranded DNA was assayed by the bisbenzimide method (Invitrogen, Quant-iT ™ PicoGreen dsDNA). The DNA concentration is proportional to the number of viable cells and makes it possible to rationalize the fluorescence read by a number of cells.
    [0037] The type I collagen assay was performed by immunochemical technique as follows: a type I anti-collagen antibody was incubated for 30 minutes with the cell lysate. After rinsing with PBS, the secondary antibody coupled to europium (Perkin Elmer) was added. A revealing solution was added and fluorescence was measured using an EnVision multiplier reader (Perkin Elmer). For each condition, the delayed-time fluorescence (TRF) was measured in each well and rationalized by the amount of DNA assayed in the well. The ratio (fluorescence / DNA concentration) was calculated. For each condition, the results are expressed as a percentage of average protein expression relative to the average protein expression measured in the negative control. Results: Table 2 Collagen I stimulation (`) / 0 versus untreated) Negative control (untreated) 100 Positive control (vit C) (50 μM) 119 Niacin 1,2.10-3% (w / w) 95,96 Niacin 3.10-3 μ) / 0 (w / w) 95.14 Niacin 6.10-3 μ) / 0 (w / w) 104.55 Extract Salvia miltiorrhiza 0.10 μl / w (p / w) 106.43 Extract Salvia miltiorrhiza 0.25% (w / w) 113.19 Salvia miltiorrhiza extract 0.50% (w / w) 131.19 * Salvia miltiorrhiza extract 0.10% (w / w) and niacin 1.2.10 -3 ') / 0 (w / w) 116,50 * Salvia miltiorrhiza extract (Ex la) 0,25 `) / 0 (w / w) and niacin 3.10-3`) / 0 (w / w) 123 , 57 * Extract Salvia miltiorrhiza (Ex. 1 a) 0.50% (w / w) and niacin 6.10-3 `) / 0 (w / w) 161.38 *** (One way annova, Dunnet method: * pvalue <0.05; ** pvalue <0.01; *** 20 p <0.001) 3026947 32 Conclusion: Table 2 showed an increase in the mean expression protein measured greater in the presence of the combination according to the invention. 'in the presence of either niacin alone or S. miltiorrhiza extract alone from on the other hand, demonstrating the synergistic effect of the combination on the protein expression of type I collagen. EXAMPLE 4 In Vivo Demonstration of the Deglycation Activity on the Glycated Collagen of the Combination According to the Invention
    [0038] Method: The in vivo measurement was performed on the facial skin of a sample of 27 Caucasian women aged 45 or over as follows: a cream containing the combination of Salvia miltiorrhiza leaf extract and prepared niacin according to Example 1 a), at a final concentration of 3% (w / w) by weight based on the total weight of the cream, was applied to one half of the face twice daily every day for 4 months . A second placebo cream without the combination according to the invention was applied under the same conditions on the second half of the face.
    [0039] A measurement of the amount of glycated collagen was carried out at times 0, 28 days, 56, 84 and 112 days by measuring the fluorescence of the skin at a wavelength of 370 nm (exc) / 475 nm (nm). ). The values were normalized with respect to the fluorescence measured at 396 nm, reflecting the autofluorescence of the skin.
    [0040] Results: The results are expressed as a percentage of average decrease in the fluorescence measured on the hemiivisage of the 27 women treated with the cream containing the combination according to the invention, and for the control treated with the cream not containing said combination (hemi-grading). untreated) (n = 27).
    [0041] Table 3 Time (days) Control (%) Combination (%) 0 100 100 28 102 101 56 100 99 84 98 97 112 98 96 * (T Combination test: * p = 0.05) Conclusion: the results were showed a greater mean decrease in the fluorescence of the skin on the half of the face on which the cream containing the combination according to the invention (3% (w / w)) was applied than the second half of the face on which the Placebo cream without combination was applied, with significant efficacy for the combination after 4 months.
    [0042] EXAMPLE 5 Demonstration in vivo of the increase in the radiance of the complexion of the skin in the presence of the combination according to the invention. Method: The in vivo measurement was carried out as detailed in Example 4. The increased radiance of the complexion results in a decrease in yellowing of the skin related to a decrease in AGE accumulation. The mean decrease in skin fluorescence was measured by chromametry (parameter b) (n = 27). Results: Time (days) Control (%) Combination (%) 0 100 100 28 97.5 97 56 97.8 96.5 ** 84 97.4 * 94.7 *** 112 96.5 ** 94, 2 *** (T Combination test: ** pvalue <0.01; *** p <0.001; T Test control: * 20 pvalue <0.1, ** p <0.05) Conclusion: The results showed a decrease greater average yellowing of the skin, on the half face on which was applied the cream containing the combination according to the invention, than the placebo cream without combination. The combination according to the invention therefore makes it possible to increase the luminosity of the skin of the face.
    [0043] Example 6: Example of a cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient containing a combination of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacin. The amounts are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the active ingredient (`) / 0 w / w). Salvia miltiorrhiza extract and niacin are preferably obtained according to Example 1a). Water Qsp 100 Salvia miltiorrhiza extract 0.25-5 Niacin 1-5 Hexylene glycol 0.5-5 Caprylyl glycol 0.1-1 Xanthan gum 0.1-1 Example 7: Examples of cosmetic compositions and / or dermatological agents containing the active ingredient according to the invention. * The cosmetic ingredient is prepared according to Example 6 above. The amounts indicated are in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ** The ingredient is prepared according to Example 6 above. The ingredient according to the invention is sterilized and then dried before being incorporated into the composition as an ointment. Formulation 7a: The composition below is prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art, in particular as regards the different phases to be mixed together.
    [0044] 302 6 94 7 Cosmetic Ingredient * 3-5 EDTA 0.05 5 Steareth-2 2.00 Steareth-21 2.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 10 1.00 Propyl Heptyl Caprylate 15.00 Sodium Hydroxide (30% solution) 0, Mixture of phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid, butylene glycol, sorbic acid (Germazide TM PBS) 1.25 Mixture of polyacrylate-X, isohexadecane and polysorbate 60 (SepigelTM SMS 60) 4.00 Water Qs 100 Formulation 7b: Use of the Cosmetic Ingredient According to the Invention in a Water-in-Oil Formulation PEG30 3 Dipolyhydroxystearate Caprique Triglycerides 3 Cetearyl Octanoate 4 A 3026947 36 Dibutyl Adipate 3 Grape Seed Oil 1.5 Jojoba Oil 1.5 Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben 0.5 B Glycerin 3 Butylene Glycol 3 Magnesium Sulfate 0.5 EDTA 0.05 Water qs 100 C Cyclomethicone 1 Dimethicone 1 D Perfume 0.3 E Cosmetic Ingredient * 0.001 - 10% Formulation products of the invention in a 7c: Use of aqueous gel formulations (Face) Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, 0.5 Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben Cosmetic Ingredient * 0.001 - 10% Formulation 7d: Use of the products of the invention in a shampoo or shower gel type formulation (Body ) AB Water qs 100 Carbomer 0.5 Butylene Glycol 3026947 37 A Water qs 100 B Butylene Glycol, Methylparaben, 0.5 Ethylparaben, Propylparaben Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben 0.5 C Citric acid 0.8 D Sodium Laureth Sulfate 40.0 E Cosmetic Ingredient * 0.001 - 10% Formulation 7e: Dermatological composition in the form of an ointment containing the combination according to the invention. The composition below is prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art, in particular as regards the different phases to be mixed together. The amounts indicated are in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Ingredient ** 3-5 Excipient: 10 Low Density Polyethylene 5.50 Liquid Paraffin Qs 100
    权利要求:
    Claims (18)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. Combination of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacin and / or niacinamide.
    [0002]
    2. Combination according to claim 1, characterized in that the Salvia miltiorrhiza extract is an extract of leaves.
    [0003]
    3. Combination according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the Salvia miltiorrhiza extract is obtained by aqueous extraction.
    [0004]
    4. Combination according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Salvia miltiorrhiza extract is obtained by extraction in a solvent, at a concentration of between 1 to 10%, preferably between 2% and 3%, by weight of fresh material of at least a part of the plant relative to the total weight of the part of the plant and the solvent.
    [0005]
    5. Combination according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the niacin and / or niacinamide is present in the combination at a final concentration between 1.1 0-7% and 10%, preferably between 1.10-1% and 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of the combination.
    [0006]
    6. Combination according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is dissolved in an aqueous solution further containing hexylene glycol, preferably in a content of 0.5%, caprylyl glycol, preferably in a content of 1%, and xanthan gum, preferably in a content of 0.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
    [0007]
    7, Cosmetic and / or nutraceutical composition comprising the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 6 and at least one cosmetically and / or nutraceutically acceptable excipient. 05-02-15 3026947 39 FR1459767
    [0008]
    8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the Salvia miltiorrhiza extract is present in the composition at a concentration of between 1.10'4% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5
    [0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that the niacin and / or niacinamide is present in the composition at a concentration of between 1.10-7% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0010]
    10. The cosmetic and / or nutraceutical use of the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for healthy body parts, to increase the deglycation of collagen and / or to increase the expression of collagen to maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, and / or to prevent and / or fight against skin aging and / or to maintain and / or increase the radiance of the skin. complexion of the skin.
    [0011]
    11. Use of the combination according to claim 10 in a cosmetic and / or nutraceutical composition according to any one of claims 7 to 9.
    [0012]
    12. Use according to any one of claims 10 or 11, characterized in that the collagen is type I collagen.
    [0013]
    13. Use according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that the combination or the composition is applied topically to specific parts of the body selected from the neck, the décolleté, the belly, the arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist and / or face, particularly around the eyes and / or lips, forehead and / or temporal areas of the scalp.
    [0014]
    14. Cosmetic treatment procedure characterized in that it comprises the application, preferably topically, of the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 6 or the composition according to claim 1. any of claims 7 to 9 on a healthy area of skin and / or mucosa and / or scalp.
    [0015]
    15. The method of cosmetic care according to claim 14, characterized in that said method is intended to increase the deglycation of collagen and / or to increase the expression of collagen in order to maintain and / or increase the firmness and / or elasticity. skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or prevent and / or fight against skin aging and / or maintain and / or increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin.
    [0016]
    16.Procédé of cosmetic care according to any one of claims 14 or 15, characterized in that the area of skin and / or mucosa and / or scalp is chosen at least from the neck, décolleté, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist and / or face, in particular the contour of the eyes and / or lips, the forehead and / or the temporal areas of the scalp.
    [0017]
    17.Combination according to any one of claims 1 to 6 or dermatological composition comprising it, optionally in combination with a dermatologically acceptable excipient, for its use to increase the deglycation of collagen and / or to increase the expression of collagen, preferentially the collagen type I, and / or to prevent and / or fight against diseases involving loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp such as rosacea, telangiectasia , solar elastosis, cutix laxa disease and / or stretch marks.
    [0018]
    18. A pharmaceutical composition, preferably dermatological, comprising the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 6 optionally in combination with a pharmaceutically acceptable excipient, preferably topically applicable, to increase the healing of skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp. 05-02-15
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    BR112017006270B1|2020-12-08|
    FR3026947B1|2017-12-08|
    BR112017006270A2|2018-03-13|
    EP3203981B1|2020-05-13|
    CN106794136A|2017-05-31|
    EP3203981A1|2017-08-16|
    WO2016055737A1|2016-04-14|
    引用文献:
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    CN109568161A|2018-12-29|2019-04-05|海清大健康医药管理有限公司|A kind of preparation method of composition with anti-saccharification and anti aging effect|
    WO2021018935A1|2019-07-29|2021-02-04|Echo Pharmaceuticals B.V.|Treatment of aging or uv-damaged skin|
    CN110859787B|2019-12-11|2022-02-11|广州环亚化妆品科技有限公司|Anti-saccharification traditional Chinese medicine composition and preparation method and application thereof|
    CN112402319A|2020-11-30|2021-02-26|北京金莎科技有限公司|Nutrient solution for improving skin quality and preparation and use methods thereof|
    法律状态:
    2015-10-29| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-04-15| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160415 |
    2016-10-31| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-10-31| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2018-10-25| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2019-10-25| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2020-10-27| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2021-10-27| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1459767A|FR3026947B1|2014-10-10|2014-10-10|ACTIVITY DEGLYCATION OF A COMBINATION OF AN EXTRACT OF SALVIA MILTIORRHIZA AND NIACIN AND / OR NIACINAMIDE|FR1459767A| FR3026947B1|2014-10-10|2014-10-10|ACTIVITY DEGLYCATION OF A COMBINATION OF AN EXTRACT OF SALVIA MILTIORRHIZA AND NIACIN AND / OR NIACINAMIDE|
    CN201580054281.1A| CN106794136A|2014-10-10|2015-10-08|The deglycosylation of the combination product of Salvia root P.E and nicotinic acid and/or niacinamide|
    EP15784090.1A| EP3203981B1|2014-10-10|2015-10-08|Deglycation activity of a combination of an extract of salvia miltiorrhiza and niacin and/or niacinamide|
    PCT/FR2015/052701| WO2016055737A1|2014-10-10|2015-10-08|Deglycation activity of a combination of an extract of salvia miltiorrhiza and of niacin and/or niacinamide|
    BR112017006270-4A| BR112017006270B1|2014-10-10|2015-10-08|combination, composition, use of a combination, and, cosmetic care process|
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