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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous oily phase, in which the continuous oily phase comprises: at least one organo-modified clay, in a content by weight ranging from 0.5% to 1% relative to the total weight of said composition; at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, in a content by weight ranging from 5% to 12% relative to the total weight of said composition; and at least one silicone surfactant in a content by weight of between 1.4% and 3% relative to the total weight of said composition; and wherein the dispersed aqueous phase comprises: - water in a content by weight ranging from 5% to 12% based on the total weight of said composition; and ethanol in a content by weight ranging from 8% to 18% relative to the total weight of said composition.
    公开号:FR3025102A1
    申请号:FR1458081
    申请日:2014-08-28
    公开日:2016-03-04
    发明作者:Pascal Arnaud；Mouton Valerie Dique
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The subject of the present invention is compositions in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising a silicone surfactant, a silicone powder, a silicone powder, a silicone powder and a silicone powder. silicone elastomer and organo-modified clay. The present invention also relates to the use of these compositions for the makeup or care, including the skin.
    [0002] Consumers are increasingly looking for make-up or skincare cosmetics that are easily spread out in the form of a deposit that should not be thick, but which must blend, on the contrary, as much as possible with the skin. It is known to those skilled in the art that highly liquid products containing a high oil content make it possible to obtain good properties of spreading and penetration into the skin. Examples of make-up products include anhydrous liquid foundations, liquid lip glosses and, in the field of skincare, oily moisturizing and emollient products as well as solar oils.
    [0003] This very liquid nature can however cause stability problems such as sedimentation of pigments, or difficulties in using the product by consumers, even if the product is proposed in a container adapted to its fluidity. In order to remedy this drawback, the person skilled in the art has tried to increase the viscosity of the product at rest while wishing to maintain its fluidity during the application. It has thus used oily gelling agents, for example waxes or organo-modified clays, which are known to lead to a significant decrease in the viscosity of the product during its application. However, these gelling agents must be used, in order to obtain a substantial gain in viscosity, in proportions that can adversely affect the optical properties of the deposit by giving it a dull, thick and artificial appearance. It remains therefore necessary to seek a technical solution that can increase their gelling properties while maintaining the product easy and pleasant spreading properties and a light and natural deposit.
    [0004] The present invention therefore aims to provide a stable composition having suitable cosmetic properties, especially for makeup or skin care. The present invention also aims to provide a high viscosity composition and can be used easily including for makeup or care of the skin. The present invention also aims to provide a cosmetic composition that is easily applied and which leads to a light and natural deposit.
    [0005] Thus, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous oily phase, in which the continuous oily phase comprises: at least one organo-modified clay, in a content by weight ranging from 0.5% to 1% relative to the total weight of said composition; at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, in a content by weight ranging from 5% to 12% relative to the total weight of said composition; and at least one silicone surfactant corresponding to the following general formula (I): ## STR2 ## wherein: the radicals R 2 represent, independently of the each other, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical, * m is between 5 and 300, * R is a group of formula - (CH2) p0- (C2H40) x (C3H60) yR1 in which: - R1 represents H, CH3 or CH2CH3, - p is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, 30 - X varies from 1 to 100, - y varies from 0 to 50, the units (C2H40) and (C3H60) of R being able to be distributed randomly or in blocks, the content by weight of silicone surfactant being between 1.4% and 3% with respect to the total weight of said composition; and wherein the dispersed aqueous phase comprises: water in a weight content of from 5% to 12% based on the total weight of said composition; and ethanol in a content by weight ranging from 8% to 18% relative to the total weight of said composition; Said composition having a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 300 mPa.s to 600 mPa.s. The present invention is based on the combination of an organo-modified clay with silicone-coated silicone elastomer powder, a particular silicone surfactant, water and ethanol in particular proportions. which makes it possible to obtain, unexpectedly, stable compositions whose viscosity is sufficiently high for easy use, which are easily applied and which lead to a light and natural deposit.
    [0006] According to the invention, the compositions are in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion whose outer oily phase contains the organomodified clay and the silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin. Without being bound by any theory, the particular silicone surfactant increases the gelling properties of the organo-modified clay in the oily phase, which makes it possible to limit its level. Viscosity The compositions of the invention are water-in-oil emulsions whose viscosity, after one month of rest at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.), has a value ranging from 300 mPa.s to 600 mPa.s. and preferably from 320 mPa.s to 400 mPa.s. When the viscosity is lower or higher than this range, the emulsions have a stability over time insufficient. As indicated above, the measurement of the viscosity is carried out after storage of the product, one month at room temperature (20-25 ° C.) and then 24 hours in a room maintained at a constant temperature of 20 ° C. As a viscometer, a Rheomat 200 from Lamy is used. The principle of the measurement is based on the determination of the torque necessary to overcome the resistance of the fluid by means of a submerged element (mobile or measuring body) rotating at a constant speed.
    [0007] The mobile is chosen so that the measurement is always between 10 and 90 ud (whole number of deflection unit). In the context of the present invention, the mobile 2 is generally used (mobiles ranging from 1 (more fluid) to 5 (thicker)). The product is introduced into a bucket adapted to the selected mobile and maintained at a temperature of 25 ° C through a thermostatically controlled water bath.
    [0008] 5 The programming of the device is as follows: Mode: manual Measuring system: 75 (fixed parameter regardless of the mobile used and programmed by Lamy) Speed: 200 rpm 10 Reading is done after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile. Organo-Modified Clay The compositions of the invention contain at least one organomodified clay which is dispersed in the outer oily phase of the emulsion.
    [0009] In the context of the present invention, the term "organomodified clay" refers to a clay chemically modified with at least one organic group. The compositions of the invention may contain an organo-modified clay or a mixture of several different organomodified clays, with respect to the nature of the clay and / or the nature of the chemical modification.
    [0010] Clays are already well known products per se, which are described for example in the book "Clay Mineralogy, S. Caillere, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson", whose teaching is here included for reference. Examples of clays that can be used in the composition of the invention include clays of the kaolinite family such as kaolinite, dickite, nacrite, clays of the halloysite family, of dombassite, antigorite, benthiérine, pyrophyllite, montmorillonites, beidellite, vermiculites, talc, stevensite, possibly modified hectorites (smectite), saponites, chlorites, meerschaum.
    [0011] The clays present in the composition of the invention may be natural or synthetic. Natural clay is a sedimentary rock composed for the most part of specific minerals, usually silicates of aluminum. Kaolin is a natural clay. According to the invention, organo-modified clays are used which are preferably hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, and which may be present before they are introduced into the composition, in a pulverulent form or in the form of a pre-dispersion in a volatile or non-volatile oil using an activator. Examples of organomodified clays in the form of a powder include hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, such as that sold under the name Bentone 38 VCG by the company ELEMENTIS and hectorite modified with stearyl chloride, benzyl dimethyl ammonium, such as that sold under the name Bentone 27 VCG by the company ELEMENTIS. Examples of organomodified clays in the form of a pre-dispersion include the references of the company ELEMENTIS: - Hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride, dispersed in the cyclopentasiloxane and activated by ethanol, such as that marketed under the name Bentone Gel VS 5 V HV, - the hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dispersed in isododecane and activated by propylene carbonate , such as that marketed under the name Bentone Gel ISD V and hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dispersed in isohexadecane and activated by propylene carbonate, such as that sold under the name of Bentone IHD V. Gel
    [0012] According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise, as organo-modified clay, hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dispersed in isododecane and activated by the propylene carbonate.
    [0013] The organomodified clay (s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 1.0% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.55% to 0.8% by weight and even more preferably from 0.6% to 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0014] Silicone Resin Silicone Elastomer Powder The compositions of the invention comprise at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin. They may therefore comprise a silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin or a mixture of several different silicone elastomer powders coated with a silicone resin.
    [0015] According to one embodiment, the silicone elastomer powder is spherical. We will speak indifferently of 'silicone elastomer' and 'organopolysiloxane elastomer'. The organopolysiloxane elastomer is crosslinked and may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by a crosslinking dehydrogenation condensation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam. Preferably, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups. , in particular in the presence (C2) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP 0 295 886. In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane reaction in the presence of platinum catalyst. Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of catalyst (C2). The compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C. The organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be selected from methylvinylsiloxanes, the methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, 10 dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane trimethylsiloxy end groups, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane, and end-capped dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers; dimethylvinylsiloxy. The compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule and is therefore the crosslinking agent of the compound (A2).
    [0016] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (A2) and the number of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms per molecule of the compound (B2) is at least 4. The compound (B2) can be under any molecular structure, in particular of linear chain structure, branched chain, cyclic structure.
    [0017] The compound (B2) can have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, especially to be well miscible with the compound (A). It is advantageous that the compound (B2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in the compound (B2) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups. in the compound (A2) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1. The compound (B2) may be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers.
    [0018] Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support. The catalyst (C2) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A2) and (B2). Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxane (A2) and (B2) described above, such as, for example, alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; Aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, a mercapto group. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder that does not comprise a phenyl group (called "non-phenylated"). The composition may furthermore comprise another elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder comprising a phenyl group (referred to as "phenyl"), preferably with a ratio of organopolysiloxane powder to non-phenylated elastomer / phenolic elastomer organopolysiloxane powder greater than 1. Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is non-emulsifying. The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units. The silicone elastomer particles are preferably spherical with an average size of from 0.1 to 500, preferably from 3 to 200, and preferably from 10 to 20. According to the present invention, the average particle size is measured by a particle analyzer and the values obtained are based on volume and calculated for spherical particles. They may have a JIS-A hardness of less than or equal to 80 (in particular ranging from 5 to 80), and preferably less than or equal to 65 (in particular ranging from 5 to 3025102 9 65). The hardness JIS-A is measured according to the method JIS K 6301 (1995) established by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee. The silicone elastomer powders coated with a silicone resin of the invention are especially described in the applications JP 61-194009, EP 0 242 219, EP 0 295 886 and EP 0 765 656. The organopolysiloxane powder elastomer is coated with silicone resin. According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone resin may be a silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793.
    [0019] Such elastomeric powders coated with silicone resin are especially sold under the names KSP 100, KSP 101, KSP 102, KSP 103, KSP 104 and KSP 105 by the company Shin Etsu and have the INCI name "vinyl dimethicone / methicone". silsesquioxane crosspolymer ".
    [0020] The silicone elastomer powder (s) coated with silicone resin is (are) present in the composition in a content of from 5% to 12% by weight, preferably from 6% to 10% by weight. % by weight and even more preferably from 7% to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
    [0021] Silicone Surfactant The compositions of the invention contain at least one silicone surfactant characterized by a chemical structure comprising hydrophilic chains at both ends (substitution at a-w) of the main chain of general formula (I) as defined above. They may also comprise a mixture of several silicone surfactants of formula (I) as defined above. In the context of the present application, reference will be made indifferently to silicone surfactant or oxyalkylenated silicone substituted in a-w. Preferably, the oxyalkylene-substituted silicone used according to the present invention has the above-mentioned general formula (I) for which: all the radicals R 2 are methyl radicals; P is from 2 to 4; x is from 3 to 100; and m is from 50 to 200. More preferably, the average molecular weight of the radicals R is from 800 to 2600.
    [0022] Preferably, the weight ratio of C2H40 (x) units to C3H60 (y) units is from 100: 10 to 20:80. Advantageously, this ratio is approximately 42/58. More preferably, R 1 is a methyl group.
    [0023] More preferably still, the emulsion according to the invention comprises the oxyalkylenated silicone in aw of the following formula: ## STR1 ## in which: m = 100, - R = (CH2) 3-O- (C2H40) x- (C3H60) y-CH3, where x is from 3 to 100, y is from 1 to 50, the weight ratio of the number of C2H40 on the the number of C3H60 being approximately 42/58, and the average molecular weight of R ranging from 800 to 1000. Among the commercial products which may contain all or part of the oxyalkylenated silicones substituted in aw which can be used according to the invention as emulsifiers, mention may be made especially of those sold under the names "Abil EM 97" and "Abil EM 97 S" by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, or "KF 6009", "X224350", "X22-4349" or "KF 6008" by the company Shin-Etsu. The silicone surfactant (s) is (are) present in the compositions in a content ranging from 1.4% to 3.0% by weight of active ingredient, preferably from 1 to , 5% to 2.5% by weight and even more preferably from 1.6% to 2.2% relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0024] The aqueous compositions of the invention also comprise an aqueous phase which contains at least 15% to 25% by weight of water, and preferably from 17% to 20% by weight, based on to the total weight of the composition.
    [0025] Water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water. In particular, a water that is suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water. / or thermal water.
    [0026] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may further comprise at least one organic compound miscible with water. This organic compound, in particular solvent, miscible with water, can be chosen from: monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and especially from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycols, polyhydric alcohols comprising 2-8 carbon atoms such as glycerol, and - mixtures thereof. This organic compound, miscible with water, is preferably selected from C2-8 glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, polyethylenes. glycols, and C2-8 polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol. The aqueous phase may also contain additives selected from the group consisting of actives, dyes, salts such as sodium chloride and magnesium sulfate, gelling agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. It may also include any other water-soluble additive commonly used in cosmetics.
    [0027] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase represents from 23% to 43% by weight, preferably from 27% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0028] Ethanol The compositions of the invention comprise, in the aqueous phase, ethanol in a content ranging from 8% to 18% by weight and preferably from 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
    [0029] Oily phase The oily phase (or fatty phase) of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one oil. It may consist of a single oil or a mixture of several oils. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment, the oily phase represents from 21% to 70% by weight, preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0030] According to one embodiment, the oils are selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
    [0031] The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example as hydroxyl or acid radicals. According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil.
    [0032] According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise from 21% to 70%, preferably from 40% to 60% by weight of oils relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0033] Volatile oils According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil. The oily phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several volatile oils.
    [0034] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa ( 10-3 at 300 mm Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm) Hg). In addition, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150 ° C to 260 ° C and preferably from 170 ° C to 250 ° C. The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated. As the hydrocarbon-based volatile oil, mention may be made of C8-C16 branched alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isohexadecane, and linear C9-C17 alkanes, such as dodecane (C12) and tetradecane (C14), sold respectively under the references of PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 by the company Sasol. Of the volatile hydrocarbon oils, isododecane is preferred. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil. Preferably, they comprise at least one C8-C16 branched alkane, and preferably isododecane. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise from 0.1% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0035] As the volatile silicone oil, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples include decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Among the volatile silicone oils, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane is preferred. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one volatile silicone oil. Preferably, they comprise at least dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and / or cyclohexasiloxane. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise from 0.1% to 69%, preferably from 20% to 35% by weight of volatile oil (s) silicone (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0036] Non-volatile oils According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil. The oily phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several non-volatile oils. "Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min.
    [0037] To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, diameter 7 cm, placed on a balance in a large enclosure of about 0.3 m 3 temperature-controlled, at a temperature of 25 ° C., and hygrometry, at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2,700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm 2) and per unit of time (minute).
    [0038] The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of natural or naturally occurring oils such as paraffin oils or petroleum jelly oil, vegetable oils, such as argan oil, black currant oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba and macadamia. Mention may also be made of synthetic oils such as esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate and octyldodecyl neopentanoate, ethers such as dicapryl ether, or alcohols such as hexyldecanol or octyldodecanol. Among the non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicone or even alkyldimethicones, such as cetyl dimethicone. Among the non-volatile fluorinated oils, mention may be made of fluorinated silicones and perfluoropolyethers.
    [0039] According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one nonvolatile silicone oil. Preferably, they comprise at least dimethicone and / or phenyltrimethicone. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of non-volatile silicone oil (s) with respect to total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the oily phase comprises at least one oil selected from the group consisting of volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, nonvolatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
    [0040] Pigments The compositions of the invention may also comprise at least one pigment, especially a mineral pigment. They may therefore comprise a single inorganic pigment or a mixture of several mineral pigments.
    [0041] According to one embodiment, the inorganic pigment is selected from the group consisting of metal oxide pigments, composite pigments and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the inorganic pigment is selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the inorganic pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compositions of the invention comprise a mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxides. According to the invention, the compositions of the invention may also comprise a composite pigment, namely a pigment consisting of the combination of one or more inorganic pigments with one or more mineral or organic fillers. According to one embodiment, the composite pigment is chosen from the group consisting of iron or titanium oxides coated with silica or alumina, iron or titanium oxides coated with organic compounds such as cellulose, and the resulting pigments. coating a silica ball with iron or titanium oxides, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the content of pigment (s) is between 0.1% and 20%, preferably between 5.0% and 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise particles of pigment (s) coated with a lipophilic compound, these particles possibly being identical or different. The compositions according to the invention may therefore comprise mixtures of pigment particles of different nature. The particle size of the pigment is strictly greater than 100 nm. For the purposes of the invention, the "size" of a particle means its D50. The D50, or volume mean size, corresponds to the particle size defined so that 50% by volume of the particles are smaller than D50.
    [0042] The average volume size can be appreciated by diffraction of light using a Malvern MasterSizer laser granulometer, said particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as, for example, octyldodecyl neopentanoate.
    [0043] According to one embodiment, the size of the pigment particles according to the invention ranges from 100 nm to 25 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 μm. The pigments are hydrophobically coated so as to be in the oily phase of the emulsion, that is to say in the external phase.
    [0044] Preferably, the composition comprises at least inorganic pigments coated with at least one lipophilic compound, in particular at least titanium oxides and iron oxides coated with at least one lipophilic compound. For the purposes of the invention, the coating of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment. The coating of the pigment particles according to the invention may be partial or total. In the context of the present invention, the term "partial coating" means that the pigment is covered by at least one coating layer in a proportion of 50% to 99.9% of the surface of said pigment. According to the invention, the coating of the pigments may comprise one or more lipophilic compounds, and optionally also one or more non-lipophilic compounds.
    [0045] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface-treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of solid particles. The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.
    [0046] The coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simply mixing the particles and said surfactant with stirring, optionally while hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles. in the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition. The coating may be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,578,266. The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent. so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one lipophilic compound chosen from the group consisting of silicone surface-active agents, fluorinated surface-active agents and fluorosilicone surfactants, metal soaps, N-acyl amino acids or their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, phospholipids and mixtures thereof. Silicone surface agent According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a compound of a silicone nature. Silicone surfactants may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. By organopolysiloxane compound is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bonded to the silicon atoms. By way of example of pigments treated with a silicone compound, mention may be made of the following pigments treated by: - Triethoxycaprylylsilane treatment such as AS 35 surface treatment (LCW) and OTS surface treatment (Daito); - Methicone treatment such as SI surface treatment (LCW); - Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 (LCW) or SA (Miyoshi) or S101 (Daito) surface treatment - Dimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 (LCW) surface treatment; and 5 - Copolymer Acrylate / Dimethicone treatment such as ASC (Daito) surface treatment. Fluoro Surface Agent The pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a fluorinated compound. The fluorinated surfactants may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides or polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups. By way of example of commercial pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, mention may be made of the following pigments treated by: - Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment (LCW); and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate Treatment as Surface Treatment PF (Daito). Fluoro-silicone surface-active agent The pigments can be totally or partially surface-treated with a fluoro-silicone compound. The fluoro-silicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes. By way of example of commercial pigments treated with a fluorosilicone compound, mention may be made of the following pigments having undergone the following treatments: acrylate / dimethicone copolymer treatment and perfluoroalkyl phosphate, such as the FSA (Daito) surface treatment; Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, such as FS01 (Daito) surface treatment; Octyltriethylsilane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the surface treatment FOIS (Daito); and 3025102 Perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane treatment such as FHS surface treatment (Daito). Other lipophilic surfactants The hydrophobic treating agent may also be selected from metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate. As metal soaps, mention may especially be made of metal fatty acid soaps having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The metal soap metal may in particular be zinc or magnesium. As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used. The fatty acid may in particular be chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid. The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from N-acylamino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl or myristoyl group, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl.
    [0047] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for example stearoyl glutamate. aluminum. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises pigment particles obtained by treatment with aluminum stearoyl glutamate. In particular, the cosmetic composition may comprise particles of iron oxide and / or titanium coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate. The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from: lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, in particular by jojoba esters, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof. By way of example of commercial pigments treated with compounds as defined above, mention may be made, for example, of the pigments having undergone the following treatments: Lauroyl Lysine treatment such as LL surface treatment (LCW); - Lauroyl Lysine Dimethicone treatment such as LL / SI (LCW) surface treatment; - Magnesium myristate treatment such as MM surface treatment (LCW); 15 - Magnesium Stearate treatment as the surface treatment MST (Daito); Hydrogenated lecithin treatment such as HLC surface treatment (LCW); aluminum dimyristate treatment such as MI 20 surface treatment (Miyoshi); - Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as HS surface treatment (Miyoshi); - Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate treatment as the NAI surface treatment (Miyoshi); Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide lysine treatment such as ASL surface treatment (Daito) - Dimethicone / Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate treatment such as SA / NAI surface treatment (Miyoshi); Hydrogenated Stearyl Olive Esters treatment as the MiyoNAT surface treatment (Miyoshi); - Lauryl Lysine / Aluminum Tristearate treatment such as LL-StAl (Daito) surface treatment; - Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as ITT (Daito) surface treatment; or 35 - Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as PF + ITT surface treatment (Daito).
    [0048] The pigments coated according to the invention with at least one lipophilic compound may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, better from 5% to 15% by weight. Additives A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, gums, resins, dispersing agents, film-forming polymers, organic or inorganic fillers, coloring agents such as nacres, water-soluble and fat-soluble dyes, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, salts, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptic agents, UV protective agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizing agents such as glycerol, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof. It is a matter of routine practice for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties of those they are not affected. According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention further comprises at least one lipophilic chemical filter. Examples of lipophilic chemical filters that may be mentioned include, for example, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and drometrizole trisiloxane. .
    [0049] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate as a lipophilic chemical filter. According to one embodiment, the content by weight of lipophilic chemical filter ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0050] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.
    [0051] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. Applications The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for care and / or make-up of the skin, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be skincare products, face or body make-up products. In particular, they may be in the form of foundation. The compositions of the invention are therefore particularly intended to be applied to the skin.
    [0052] Throughout the application, the phrase "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least" one unless the contrary is specified. Throughout the above description, unless otherwise stated, the term "inclusive (e) between x and y" corresponds to an inclusive range, i.e. the x and y values are included in the range.
    [0053] EXAMPLES Examples 1 to 3: Influence of the Nature of the Surfactant on the Stability Examples of foundation 1 to 3 show the superiority of the silicone surfactant of the invention of formula (I) with respect to two other silicone surfactants different structures. Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 (Invention) (Comparative) (Comparative) "/ mass% mass by weight Yci Al Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone / Dimethicone (85/15) 2.00 - - sold under Abil EM 97 S reference by the company of (1.70 MA) Evonik Goldschmidt PEG 10 dimethicone sold under the reference KF 6017 by -170, - Shin-Etsu PEG 9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone sold under the - - 1.70 reference KF 6028 by Shin-Etsu Dimethicone (5 cSt) - 0.30 0.30 Isododecane 11.00 11.00 11.00 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 2.00 2.00 2.00 by Dow Corning Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 3.00 3.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 8.51 8.51 8.51 Cyclohexasiloxane 12.10 12.10 12.10 Vinyl dimethicone / Methylone Silsesquioxane crosspolymer 8.00 8.00 8.00 sold under reference KSP 100 by Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 4.00 4.00 4.00 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 10.04 10.04 10.04 sold under the same name reference NAI-TAO-77891 from the company Miyoshi Kasei Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 1.72 1.72 1.72 (3%) sold under the reference NAI-C33-9001-10 of the company Miyoshi Kasei red iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 0.33 0.33 0.33 (3%) sold under the reference NAI-C33-8001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei Black iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate aluminum 0.13 0.13 0.13 (3%) sold under the reference NAI-C33-7001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei B1 Demineralized water 19.17 19.17 19.17 B2 Ethanol 96 denatured 12, 00 12.00 12.00 C Disteardimonium hectorite / propylene carbonate / isododecane 6.00 6.00 6.00 (10/3/87) sold under the reference BENTONE GEL ISD V (0.6% MA) (0.6 % MA) (0.6% MA) by Elementis TOTAL 100% 100% 100% Procedure The constituents of phase Al are weighed into the main beaker and stirred while maintaining at room temperature using a Moritz agitator (600 to 70 0 rpm) for 15 minutes until homogenization.
    [0054] The A2 phase is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane. This A2 phase is then added to the main beaker by stirring with a Moritz stirrer (700-800 rpm) for 30 minutes at room temperature. Phase B1 is then added with Moritz stirring (1000 - 1200 rpm) for 10 minutes, and the B2 phase while stirring for 5 minutes. Phase C is finally introduced with stirring at the Moritz (1500 - 1600 rpm) for 10 minutes.
    [0055] Stability The stability of the product is visually assessed after two months of storage at 4, 25, 37 and 45 ° C. The viscosity is measured according to the method described above in the description. Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 (Invention) (Comparative) (Comparative) Viscosity 1 month Tamb (mPa. $) 350 262 230 Stability Good stability Poor stability Poor stability The product has a fluid appearance Exsudation of oil in light oil exudation in homogeneous, a surface is observed at all temperatures and start of flocculation at room temperature (consistency of the non-homogeneous product). surface to all very light oily film at temperatures and surface start to all flocculation at temperature temperatures. ambient (consistency of the non-homogeneous product). It has thus been found that the silicone surfactant according to the invention makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions with satisfactory properties, especially in terms of stability. Such properties are however not obtained by using other silicone surfactants in view of the results obtained for Comparative Examples 2 and 3.
    [0056] EXAMPLES 4 AND 5 Influence of the Constituent Levels on the Stability Example 4 (Comparative) of foundation makes it possible to show that when the level of surfactant of the invention of active ingredient is lower than the low value of the range. according to the invention (1.4%), the stability is insufficient.
    [0057] The (comparative) foundation example 5 makes it possible to show that when the proportion of organo-modified clay is greater than the high value of the range according to the invention (1.0%) and when the water is lower than the low value of the range according to the invention (15%), the stability is insufficient. Example 4 Example 5 (Comparative) (Comparative) 'Y. by weight% Al Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 dimethicone / dimethicone (85/15) sold as 1.50 2.00 reference Abil EM 97 S by the company of Evonik Goldschmidt (1.28 MA) (1) , 70 MA) Isododecane 7.00 7.00 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 by Dow Corning 2.00 2.00 Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 3.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 10.51 25.61 Cyclohexasiloxane 16.60 2 , 00 Vinyl dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane crosspolymer sold under the 700 8.00 reference KSP 100 by the company Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 4.00 4.00 Titanium dioxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate sold under the 10.04 10.04 reference NAI-TAO-77891 from the company Miyoshi Kasei Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) sold under 1.72 1.72 the reference NAI-C33-9001-10 of the company Miyoshi Kasei Oxyde de red iron coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate (3%) sold under 0.33 0.33 the reference NAI-C33-8001-10 of the company Miyos hi Kasei Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) sold under the reference NAI-C33-7001-10 by the company Miyoshi Kasei 0.13 0.13 B1 Demineralized water 16.17 14.17 B2 Ethanol at 96 denatured 10.00 8.00 C Disteardimonium hectorite / propylene carbonate / isododecane (10/3/87) 10.00 12.00 sold under the reference BENTONE GEL ISD V by Elementis (1.0% MA) ( 1.2% MA) TOTAL 100% 100% The compositions of Examples 4 and 5 were prepared according to the procedure described in Examples 1 and 2. Viscosity and stability The viscosity is measured according to the method described above in the description. . Example 4 (comparative) (comparative) Viscosity 1 month 540 650 Tamb (mPa. $) Stability Poor stability Poor stability Start of flocculation (cracks) Flocculation (cracks) and exudation of oil in oil exudation at surface all surfaces at all temperatures. temperatures.
    [0058] The results obtained made it possible to demonstrate that the compositions of Examples 4 and 5 were not stable and therefore did not have satisfactory properties.
    [0059] EXAMPLE 6 Influence of Viscosity on Stability Example 6 (comparative) of foundation makes it possible to show that when the viscosity is lower than the low value of the range according to the invention (300 mPa.s.), stability is insufficient. Example 6 (Comparative) 'Y. Al Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone / Dimethicone (85/15) sold under the 2.00 reference Abil EM 97 S by the company of Evonik Goldschmidt (1.70 MA) Isododecane 12.00 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 by the company Dow Corning 2.00 Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 8.51 Cyclohexasiloxane 12.10 Vinyl dimethicone / Methylone Silsesquioxane crosspolymer sold under the 8.00 reference KSP 100 by the company Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 4, Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate sold under the 10.04 reference NAI-TAO-77891 from the company Miyoshi Kasei Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) sold under 172 reference NAI- C33-9001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei Iron oxide red coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) sold under 0.33 the reference NAI-C33-8001-10 of the company Miyoshi Kasei Black iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate (3%) v endu under the reference NAI-C33-7001-10 of the company Miyoshi Kasei 0.13 B1 Demineralized water 19.17 B2 Ethanol 96 denatured 12.00 C Disteardimonium hectorite / propylene carbonate / isododecane (10/3/87) sold 5 The composition of Example 6 was prepared according to the procedure described in Examples 1 and 2. Viscosity and stability 15 The viscosity is measured according to the method described above in the description. Example 6 (Comparative) Viscosity 1 month 278 Tamb (mPa. $) Poor stability Presence of an oily film at the surface of the product at all temperatures and greater sedimentation at 45 ° C. Stability 3025102 28 Examples 7 to 9: Compositions according to Examples 7 to 9 illustrate the invention through different percentages of the ingredients of the combination. Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 (Invention) (Invention) (Invention) "/ mass% mass% Al Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone / Dimethicone (85/15) 2.00 2.00 2.00 sold under the reference Abil EM 97 S by (1.70 MA) (1.70 MA) (1.70 MA) the company of Evonik Goldschmidt Isododecane 10.00 9.00 7.00 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 2.00 2.00 2.00 by Dow Corning Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 3.00 3.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 8.51 8.51 11.01 Cyclohexasiloxane 12.10 12.10 16.60 Vinyl dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane crosspolymer 8.00 8.00 8.00 sold under the reference KSP 100 by Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 4.00 4.00 4.00 Dioxide of titanium coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 10.04 10.04 10 , 04 sold under the reference NAI-TAO-77891 from the company Miyoshi Kasei Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 1.72 1.72 1.72 (3%) sold under the reference NAI-C33-9001- 10 from the company Miyoshi K asei Red iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 0.33 0.33 0.33 (3%) sold under the reference NAI-C33-8001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei Black iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate aluminum 0.13 0.13 0.13 (3%) sold under the reference NAI-C33-7001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei B1 Demineralized water 19.17 19.17 16.17 B2 Ethanol 96 denatured 12, 00 12.00 8.00 C Disteardimonium hectorite / propylene carbonate / 7.00 8.00 10.00 isododecane (10/3/87) sold under the reference (0.7% MA) (0.8% MA) ( 1.0% MA) BENTONE GEL ISD V by Elementis TOTAL 100% 100% 100% The compositions of Examples 7 to 9 were prepared according to the procedure described in Examples 1 and 2.
    [0060] Viscosity and stability The viscosity is measured according to the method described above in the description. Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 (Invention) (Invention) (Invention) Viscosity 1 month 383 500 500 Tamb (mPa. $) Stability Good stability Good stability The appearance of the product is slightly thicker Good stability The product has a smooth appearance to 25 ° C The product has a smooth appearance. A very light oily film is observed at all temperatures. and homogeneous at 25 ° C, trace traces of oil are observed at other temperatures. These results made it possible to demonstrate that the compositions according to the invention are stable and have satisfactory properties. 15
    权利要求:
    Claims (14)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. Composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous oily phase, in which the continuous oily phase comprises: at least one organo-modified clay, in a content by weight ranging from 0.5% at 1% relative to the total weight of said composition; at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, in a content by weight ranging from 5% to 12% relative to the total weight of said composition; and at least one silicone surfactant having the following general formula (I): ## STR2 ## wherein: the radicals R 2 represent, independently of one another, other, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical, * m is between 5 and 300, 20 * R is a group of formula - (CH2) p0- (C21-140) x (C3H60) yR1 in which: R 1 represents H, CH 3 or CH 2 CH 3, p is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, x varies from 1 to 100, and y ranges from 0 to 50, the (C 2 H 40) and (C 3 H 60) units of R being be distributed randomly or in blocks, the content by weight of silicone surfactant being between 1.4% and 3% relative to the total weight of said composition; and wherein the dispersed aqueous phase comprises: water in a weight content of from 5% to 12% based on the total weight of said composition; and ethanol in a content by weight ranging from 8% to 18% relative to the total weight of said composition; said composition having a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 300 mPa.s to 600 mPa.s. m 3025102 31
    [0002]
    The composition of claim 1, wherein the clay is selected from the group consisting of clays of the kaolinite family such as kaolinite, dickite, nacrite, halloysite family, domasite, antigorite, benthierine, pyrophyllite, montmorillonites, beidellite, vermiculites, talc, stevensite, optionally modified hectorites (smectite), saponites, chlorites, sepiolite and their mixtures. 10
    [0003]
    3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the organomodified clay is selected from hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride.
    [0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the silicone elastomer powder is in the form of spherical particles of average size ranging from 0.1 lm to 500 microns.
    [0005]
    The composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the silicone resin is a silsesquioxane resin.
    [0006]
    6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone surfactant has the following formula: = 100, - R = (CH2) 3-O- (C2H40) x- (C3H60) y-CH3, where x is from 3 to 100, y is from 1 to 50, the weight ratio of the number of C2H40 on the number of C3H60 being about 42/58, and the average molecular weight of R ranging from 800 to 1,000.
    [0007]
    7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 further comprising at least one oil selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof. 25 3025102 32
    [0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least one pigment. 5
    [0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising particles of iron oxides and / or titanium coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate.
    [0010]
    10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the oily phase further comprises at least one lipophilic chemical filter.
    [0011]
    The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the aqueous phase further comprises additives selected from the group consisting of actives, dyes, salts, gelling agents, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
    [0012]
    12. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11.
    [0013]
    13. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to claim 12. .
    [0014]
    14. Cosmetic non-therapeutic method of care and / or make-up of the skin, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to claim 12.30
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    WO2016030420A1|2016-03-03|
    KR102020924B1|2019-09-11|
    KR20170031248A|2017-03-20|
    JP6465961B2|2019-02-06|
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    法律状态:
    2015-06-29| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-03-04| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160304 |
    2016-07-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-07-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2018-07-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2020-07-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2021-07-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1458081|2014-08-28|
    FR1458081A|FR3025102B1|2014-08-28|2014-08-28|COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING SILICONE SURFACTANT, SILICONE ELASTOMER POWDER, AND ORGANO-MODIFIED CLAY|FR1458081A| FR3025102B1|2014-08-28|2014-08-28|COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING SILICONE SURFACTANT, SILICONE ELASTOMER POWDER, AND ORGANO-MODIFIED CLAY|
    US15/506,987| US10813854B2|2014-08-28|2015-08-26|Compositions comprising a silicone surfactant, a silicone elastomer powder and an organo-modified clay|
    PCT/EP2015/069548| WO2016030420A1|2014-08-28|2015-08-26|Compositions comprising a silicone surfactant, a silicone elastomer powder and an organo-modified clay|
    ES15754229T| ES2883194T3|2014-08-28|2015-08-26|Compositions comprising a silicone surfactant, a silicone elastomer powder, and an organo-modified clay|
    EP15754229.1A| EP3193817B1|2014-08-28|2015-08-26|Compositions comprising a silicone surfactant, a silicone elastomer powder and an organo-modified clay|
    KR1020177005470A| KR102020924B1|2014-08-28|2015-08-26|Compositions comprising a silicone surfactant, a silicone elastomer powder and an organo-modified clay|
    JP2017511753A| JP6465961B2|2014-08-28|2015-08-26|Composition comprising silicone surfactant, silicone elastomer powder, and organo-modified clay|
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