![]() PHOSPHONIC COPOLYMER AND COSMETIC USE FOR TREATING SKIN WRINKLES
专利摘要:
The invention relates to a copolymer derived from the polymerization of: (i) 70 to 95% by weight, of the total weight of the monomers, of isobornyl (meth) acrylate; (ii) 1 to 30% by weight of vinylphosphonic acid monomer; (iii) 0 to 20% by weight of an additional monomer. Cosmetic composition comprising the copolymer and cosmetic process for the care of the skin, more particularly of the skin of the face, in particular of the wrinkled skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition. Use of the copolymer as a skin tightening agent 公开号:FR3022909A1 申请号:FR1455877 申请日:2014-06-25 公开日:2016-01-01 发明作者:Bertrand Lion;Laurent Sabatie 申请人:LOreal SA; IPC主号:
专利说明:
[0001] The present invention relates to novel phosphonic acid group polymers and their use as a skin tightening agent. During the aging process, there are various signs on the skin, very characteristic of this aging, resulting in particular in a modification of the structure and cutaneous functions. The main clinical signs of skin aging include the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, which increases with age. [0002] It is known to treat these signs of aging by using cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing active agents capable of combating aging, such as α-hydroxy acids, p-hydroxy acids and retinoids. These active agents act on wrinkles by eliminating dead skin cells and accelerating the process of cell renewal. However, these assets have the disadvantage of being effective for the treatment of wrinkles after a certain time of application. However, we seek more and more to obtain an immediate effect of the assets used, leading quickly to a smoothing of lines and wrinkles and the disappearance of fatigue marks. The inventors have discovered that new phosphonic acid-containing polymers have an improved tensor effect on the skin and thus make it possible to attenuate the wrinkles of the skin immediately. In addition, when the phosphonic polymer is associated with a particular amino compound, the tensor effect obtained is further improved and this effect has in addition a good water resistance and therefore good water retention. In addition, the polymers according to the invention make it possible to obtain a transparent (not whitish) and homogeneous film, which does not crumble, unlike similar copolymers containing acrylic acid in place of the phosphonic acid monomer. More specifically, the subject of the present invention is a copolymer resulting from the polymerization of: (i) 70 to 95% by weight, of the total weight of the monomers, of isobornyl (meth) acrylate; (ii) 1 to 30% by weight of vinyl phosphonic acid monomer of formula (I) defined below; (iii) 0 to 20% by weight of an additional monomer. [0003] Such a copolymer is hereinafter referred to as a phosphonic polymer. The invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a phosphonic polymer as described above. [0004] The subject of the invention is also a process, especially a cosmetic process, for the care of the skin, more particularly of the skin of the face, in particular of the wrinkled skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a phosphonic polymer as described above. The method according to the invention is in particular intended to smooth the human skin of the face and / or the body and / or to diminish or erase the signs of skin aging, in particular to reduce or eliminate the wrinkles and / or fine lines of the skin. skin. According to one embodiment of the method according to the invention, the topical application to the skin of an extemporaneous mixture of a composition comprising a phosphonic polymer as described above and an amino compound, or a composition is carried out the container and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as defined below. According to another embodiment of the method according to the invention, the sequential application on the skin of a composition comprising a phosphonic polymer as described above and an amino compound, or a composition containing it and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as defined below. The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use as a tensor for the skin, in particular of a wrinkled skin, of a phosphonic polymer as described above, optionally in admixture with an amino compound, or of a composition containing it and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as defined below. [0005] The subject of the invention is also a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, obtained by mixing a composition comprising the said phosphonic polymer as described above and an amine compound or a composition containing it and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, such as defined below. [0006] The invention also relates to a kit comprising a first composition comprising said phosphonic polymer as described above and a second composition comprising an amino compound as described below and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, the first and second compositions being each conditioned in a separate packaging set. [0007] The packaging assembly of the compositions is in a known manner any packaging adapted to store the cosmetic compositions (bottles, tube, spray bottle, aerosol bottle in particular). Such a kit makes it possible to implement the method of treating the skin according to the invention. The phosphonic polymer according to the invention comprises an isobornyl (meth) acrylate, a vinylphosphonic acid monomer of formula (I) and optionally an additional monomer as defined below. The vinylphosphonic acid monomer has the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## wherein: R 1 is H or -CH 3; X is a covalent bond and n is an integer from 0 to 14; Where X denotes a group -000- and n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 6. Advantageously, for the monomer of formula (I), X denotes a covalent bond and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 6 or X is a group -000- and n is an integer from 2 to 4. Preferably, for the monomer of formula (I): R1 = HX denotes a covalent bond and n is an integer from 0 to 4. As an example of a monomer of formula (I), mention may be made of vinylphosphonic acid; 3-butenylphosphonic acid; 4-pentenylphosphonic acid; 10-undecenyl phosphonic acid; 11-dodecenylphosphonic acid; the 2-phosphonoethyl ester of 2-propenoic acid the 2-phosphonoethyl ester of 2-methyl-2-propenoic acid. Preferably, the monomer (I) is vinylphosphonic acid. Any additional monomer present is different from the monomers of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and vinylphosphonic acid. In particular, the additional monomer may be chosen from the monomers of formula (II): ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; X is O or NH or NR3; R2 denotes linear or C1-C22 or branched C3-C10 or cyclic C5-C7 linear alkyl or a linear unsaturated C3-C20 or branched C6-C20 or cyclic C5-C7 hydrocarbon radical or a radical - (Si (CH3) 2 O) b-CH3 with b from 5 to 70, with the proviso that X = O when R2 is a radical of formula- (Si (CH3) 2 O) b-CH3; R3 denotes a linear C1-C12 or branched C3-C12 alkyl radical. Mention may be made, as alkyl radical, of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, isooctyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosyl and behenyl radicals. . According to a preferred embodiment, the copolymer is free of additional monomer. Advantageously, copolymers of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and vinylphosphonic acid are used. The polymer according to the invention is preferably chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of: 70 to 95% by weight, of the total weight of the monomers, of isobornyl (meth) acrylate; 5-30% by weight of vinyl phosphonic acid monomer of formula (I) as previously described. Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of from 30 to 75% by weight, and from the total weight of the monomers, of isobornyl (meth) acrylate; - 5 to 25% by weight of vinyl phosphonic acid monomer of formula (I) as described above. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of: 70 to 95% by weight, of the total weight of the monomers, of isobornyl (meth) acrylate; 5 to 30% by weight of vinylphosphonic acid; and preferably, from: 75 to 95% by weight, of the total weight of the monomers, of isobornyl (meth) acrylate; 5 to 25% by weight of vinylphosphonic acid. [0008] Examples of copolymers according to the invention include isobornyl acrylate / vinyl phosphonic acid copolymers, in particular copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / vinylphosphonic acid (80/20) or 90/10 (weight / weight). [0009] The copolymer may be a random, alternating (block), gradient polymer. Preferably, the copolymer is random. The copolymer according to the invention may be prepared by radical polymerization of the monomers described above, in particular as a mixture or added sequentially during the polymerization, in particular by using an organic solvent having a boiling point greater than or equal to 60 ° C., for example isododecane, ethanol, ethyl acetate, tetrahydrofuran, methyltetrahydrofuran, methyl ethyl ketone. The organic solvent makes it possible to solubilize the monomers used and the polymer formed. [0010] The polymerization is especially carried out in the presence of a radical initiator, in particular of the peroxide type (for example tert-Butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate: Trigonox 21S, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-di (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) hexane: Trigonox 141; tertbutyl peroxypivalate: Trigonox 25C75 from AkzoNobel) or azo for example (AIBN: azobisisobutyronitrile; V50: 2,2'-azo-bis (2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride). [0011] The polymerization can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 60 to 100 ° C, preferably from 60 to 85 ° C. The duration of the polymerization can be about 24 hours. [0012] The term "tensioning agent" means compounds likely to have an apparent tensing effect, that is to say to smooth the skin and reduce or even eliminate, immediately wrinkles and fine lines. The tensor effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test as described in Example 5. Preferably, the phosphonic polymer according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 5000 to 1,000,000 daltons, more preferably ranging from 10,000 to 500,000 daltons, and even more preferably ranging from 15,000 to 350,000 daltons. The molecular weight can in particular be determined by size exclusion chromatography, eluent THF + 0.2M LiCl, polystyrene standard, refractometer detector 2414 from WATERS. [0013] The phosphonic polymer as defined above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 10%. by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1% to 6% by weight. According to a first embodiment of the process according to the invention, an extemporaneous mixing of the phosphonic polymer according to the invention and an amino compound as defined below is carried out and the mixture is applied to the skin. According to a second embodiment of the process according to the invention, a sequential application is carried out firstly of the phosphonic polymer and secondly of an amino compound as defined below. [0014] The amine compound used in the process according to the invention is chosen from amine compounds having several primary amine and / or secondary amine groups or even aminosilanes. It can therefore be chosen from aminosilane compounds, diamine compounds, triamine compounds or polyamine compounds. [0015] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the amine compound is a compound comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular a non-polymeric compound. By non-polymeric compound is meant a compound which is not directly obtained by a polymerization reaction of monomers. [0016] As amino compounds, mention may be made of N-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl-1,3-diaminopropane and N-cyclohexyl-1,3-diaminopropane. (3-aminopropylamino) ethanol, 3- (2-aminoethyl) aminopropylamine, bis (3-aminopropyl) amine, methyl bis (3-aminopropyl) amine, N- (3-aminopropyl) -1,4- diaminobutane, N, N-dimethyldipropylene triamine, 1,2-bis (3-aminopropylamino) ethane, N, N'-bis (3-aminopropyl) -1,3-propanediamine, ethylene diamine, 1, 3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, cystamine, xylene diamine, tris (2-aminoethyl) amine, spermidine. The amine compound may also be chosen from aminosilanes, such as those of formula (III): R'1Si (OR'2), (R'3) x in which: R'1 is a C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic substituted by a group chosen from the following groups: - amine NH 2 or NHR with R = C 1 -C 4 alkyl, - an aryl or aryloxy group substituted by an amino group or by a group C1-4 aminoalkyl; R'1 can be interrupted in its chain by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO), R'1 being bonded to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom, - R'2 and R'3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3, and - x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x = 3. Preferably, R'2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. [0017] Preferably, R'2 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preferably, R'2 represents the ethyl group. Preferably, R '3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preferably, R '3 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preferably, R '3 represents the methyl or ethyl group. [0018] Preferably R'1 is an acyclic chain. Preferably R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by an NH 2 or NHR amine group (R = C 1 -C 6 alkyl, C 3 -C 6 cycloalkyl or C 6 aromatic). Preferentially, R'1 is a linear saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by an NH2 amine group. More preferentially, R'1 is a linear saturated C 2 -C 4 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with an NH 2 amine group. Preferably, R '1 is a saturated linear C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted by an amine group NH2, R'2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R'3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preferably, z is 3. Preferably, the aminosilane of formula (III) is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane and N- (2-aminopropyltriethoxysilane). aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane. Preferably, the aminosilane (III) is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane and N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane. Preferably the aminosilane (III) is 3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES). [0019] Preferably, the amine compound is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), N-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N cyclohexyl 1,3-diaminopropane, 2- (3-aminopropylamino) ethanol, 3- (2-aminoethyl) aminopropylamine, bis (3-aminopropyl) amine, methyl bis (3-aminopropyl) amine, N - (3-aminopropyl) -1,4-diaminobutane, N, N-dimethyldipropylene triamine, 1,2-bis (3-aminopropylamino) ethane, N, N'-bis (3-aminopropyl) -1,3 propane diamine, ethylene diamine, lysine. The amine compound may also be chosen from amino polymers, especially having a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 1,000,000, preferably ranging from 500 to 500,000, and preferably ranging from 500 to 100,000. As amino polymer poly (alkylene (C 2 -C 5) imines), and in particular polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, especially poly (ethyleneimine) (for example that sold under the reference 46,852-3 by the company Aldrich Chemical) may be used; poly (allylamine) (for example that sold under the reference 47,913-6 by Aldrich Chemical); polyvinylamines and their copolymers, especially with vinylamides; mention may in particular be made of vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers such as those sold under the name Lupamine® 9030 by the company BASF; polyamino acids having NH 2 groups such as polylysine, for example that sold by JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso); dextran amino, such as that sold by CarboMer Inc; polyvinyl amino alcohol such as that sold by CarboMer Inc, copolymers based on acrylamidopropylamine; chitosan; Polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amino groups at the chain end or on side chains, for example terminal or lateral aminopropyl groups, for example those of formula (A) or (B) or (C): NE 12 (A) (B) ) H2NCH2CH2CH2-Si (CH3) 2-0- [Si (CH3) 2-O] n-Si (CH3) 2C4Hg (C) in the formula (A): the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight silicone is between 500 and 55,000. Examples of aminosilicone (A) include those sold under the names "DMS-A11", "DMS-Al2", "DMS-A15", "DMS-A21" , "DMS-A31", "DMS-A32," DMS-A35 "by the company GELEST. in the formula (B), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the silcione is between 1000 and 55 000. Examples of silicone (B) include those sold under the names "AMS -132 "," AMS-152 "," AMS-162 "," AMS-163 "," AMS-191 "," AMS-1203 "by the company GELEST. in the formula (C), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 3000. Examples of silicone (C) include those sold under the names "MCR-A11 "," MCR-Al2 "by the company GELEST. amodimethicones of formula (D): ## STR2 ## wherein R, R 'and R " , identical or different, each represents a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between about 5,000 and 500,000. Polyether amines, especially known under the reference JEFFAMINE of the company H UNSTMAN; and especially: polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol α, β-diamine (end-amine function chain) such as those sold under the names JEFFAMINE D-230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000, ED-2003. Polytetrahydrofuran (or polytetramethylene glycol) α, β-diamine, α, β-diamine polybutadienes; Polyamidoamine dendrimers (PANAM) with terminal amine functions. [0020] Poly (meth) acrylates or poly (meth) acrylamides bearing primary or secondary secondary amine functions such as poly (3-aminopropyl) methacrylamide, poly (2-aminoethyl) methacrylate. [0021] As aminated polymer, the polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol α, β-diamine and the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising terminal aminopropyl groups are preferably used. Preferably, the amine compounds used in the process according to the invention are chosen from ethylene diamine, lysine, 3-aminopropyltriethoxy-silane (APTES). More preferably, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) is used. Advantageously, the amine compound used in the process according to the invention is used according to an amine compound / phosphonic acid molar ratio ranging from 0.01 to 10, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5, preferably ranging from 0.1. at 2, and more preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1. The amino compound in contact with the phosphonic polymer reacts with the phosphonic acid functions, for example as follows: ## EQU1 ## The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin. and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with the skin and / or its integuments. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and that does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer from using this composition. [0022] The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of dispersions of the lotion or aqueous gel or oily type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. [0023] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an O / W emulsion or an oily gel. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises an oil, especially in a content ranging from 50 to 99% by weight. [0024] The composition can be anhydrous. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and especially free of water. If necessary, such small amounts of water may in particular be brought by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual amounts. [0025] The composition according to the invention may further contain one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as emulsifiers, preservatives, sequestering agents, perfumes, thickeners, oils, waxes, film-forming polymers. [0026] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and / or their amount in such a way that the anti-wrinkle properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. [0027] According to a first embodiment of the method according to the invention, an extemporaneous mixture of a composition comprising the phosphonic polymer and an amine compound as described above or a composition containing it and comprising a medium is applied to the skin. physiologically acceptable. The extemporaneous mixture is advantageously carried out less than 5 minutes before its application to the skin, and preferably less than 3 minutes. According to a second embodiment of the process according to the invention, the composition comprising the phosphonic polymer is first applied to the skin, then an amino compound as described above or a composition containing it and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium is applied. The application of the amino compound can be carried out after a time of between 5 minutes and one hour after having applied the phosphonic polymer. [0028] According to a third embodiment of the method according to the invention, the amine compound, or a composition containing it and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, is first applied to the skin, and then the cosmetic composition comprising the phosphonic polymer is applied. The application of the phosphonic polymer can be carried out after a time of between 5 minutes and one hour after having applied the amine compound. The application of the composition according to the invention is carried out according to the usual techniques, for example by application (in particular of creams, gels, serums, lotions) to the skin to be treated, in particular the skin of the face and / or the neck, especially the skin around the eye. As part of this process, the composition may be, for example, a care composition. The invention will now be described with reference to the following examples given by way of nonlimiting illustration. EXAMPLE 1 Isobornyl Acrylate / Vinyl Phosphonic Acid Copolymer (90/10 by Weight) In a reactor, 180 g of isobornyl acrylate, 20 g of vinylphosphonic acid and 200 g of an isododecane / ethanol mixture (70/30 w / w). The reaction medium was degassed under argon for 20 minutes. Then 2 g of 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-di (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) hexane initiator (Trigonox® T141 from Akzo Nobel) was added. The reaction medium was heated under reflux of ethanol for 24 hours with stirring. After cooling to room temperature (25 ° C.), the reaction medium was diluted with 300 g of isododecane. The product obtained was precipitated in ethanol, recovered and dried in an oven at 60 ° C. under vacuum. After drying, 180 g (90% yield) of a white powder were obtained. Molecular weight Mw = 55700. [0029] The acid number is 21 mg / g. EXAMPLE 2 Isobornyl Acrylate / Vinyl Phosphonic Acid Copolymer (80/20 by Weight) The copolymer was prepared according to the procedure of Example 1 using 160 g of isobornyl acrylate and 40 g of vinyl acid. phosphonic. 175 g (yield 87.5%) of a white powder were obtained. [0030] MW molecular weight = 67500. The acid number is 31 mg / g. Example 3 (Excluding the Invention): Isobornyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer (90/10 by weight) The copolymer was prepared according to the procedure of Example 1 using 180 g of isobornyl acrylate and 20 g of acrylic acid. [0031] 140 g (70% yield) of a white powder were obtained. The acid number is 18 mg / g. Example 4 (Excluding the Invention): Isobornyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer (80/20 by weight) The copolymer was prepared according to the procedure of Example 1 using 160 g of isobornyl acrylate and 40 g of acrylic acid. [0032] 150 g (75% yield) of a white powder were obtained. The acid number is 110 mg / g. [0033] EXAMPLE 5 Demonstration of the tensor effect of the polymers used according to the invention This test consists in comparing in vitro the tensing power of the polymer to be evaluated with respect to a standard tensor polymer: Hybridur® 875 polymer dispersion from Air Products (Aqueous dispersion at 40% by weight of particles of an interpenetrating network of polyurethane and acrylic polymers). The polymer to be evaluated is deposited on a strip of nitrile rubber cut in a glove sold under the reference "Safeskin Nitrile Criticial" No. 038846 by the company Dominique Dutscher SA, with a surface of 3.5 cm 2 previously stretched on a support. A solution containing the polymer to be evaluated is therefore deposited on the elastomer strip, by depositing 1.8 mg (dry matter) of polymer. 26 μl of an aqueous solution containing 7% MA of Hybridur® 875 polymer are thus deposited on a strip of nitrile rubber to thereby obtain a tensor reference strip and on another strip 26 μl of a solution containing 7% MA is deposited. of phosphonic polymer to be evaluated in an isododecane / ethanol mixture (70/30 w / w). After drying for 24 hours at room temperature (25 ° C.), the curling (shrinking) of the strip treated with the phosphonic polymer is observed in comparison with that obtained with the control (Hybridur® 875). [0034] The tensor effect of the graft polymer was also evaluated in the presence of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) or O, O'-Bis (2-aminopropyl) polypropylene glycol-b / ock-polyethylene glycol-block-polypropylene glycol (Jeffamine® ED-600 from Huntsman) or PDMS diamine (DMS-A15 from Gelest). [0035] For 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), the following mixtures were prepared before application to the nitrile strip (the phosphonic polymer being in solution in the isododecane / ethanol mixture): ## EQU1 ## (in g) Number moles Number of moles Acid neutralization APTES (in mg phosphonic amines) 1 to 25% 0.7 2,625.10-4 7,26 3,2813. 10-5 1b 50% 0.7 2,625. 10-4 14.52 6.5625. 10-5 lc 100% 0.7 2,625. 10-4 29.05 13.125. EXAMPLE 10 Polymer Amount Quantity of Example 2 (in g) Number moles Amount of Number Moles Acid Neutralization APTES (Phosphine amine amines) 2a 25% 0.7 4.125. 10-4 11.41 5,1563.10-5 2b 50% 0.7 4,125.10-4 22,82 10,3125.10-5 2c 100% 0,7 4,125.10-4 45,64 20,625.10-5 2d 200% 0,7 4,125 . 10-4 91.28 41.25. For O, O'-Bis (2-aminopropyl) propylene glycol-b / ock-polyethylene glycol-b / propepolypropylene glycol (Jeffamine® ED-600 from Huntsman), the following mixtures were prepared prior to application on the nitrile strip (the phosphonic polymer being in solution in the isododecane / ethanol mixture): ex Quantity of polymer number of moles of acid Quantity of molar number neutralization Example 1 Phosphonic Jeffamine® ED-600 (in mg) of amines (in g) 1 e 25% 0.7 2,625.10-4 3,2813. 10-5 1f 100% 0.7 2,625. 10-4 40 13.125. For the PDMS diamine (DMS-A15 from Gelest), the following mixtures were prepared before application to the nitrile strip (the phosphonic polymer being in solution in the isododecane / ethanol mixture): ex Quantity ratio of the polymer of Example 1 (in g) Number moles Amount Number moles PDMS diamine acid neutralization (in mg) phosphine amines 25% 0.7 2,625.10-4 3,2813. 10-5 lh 50% 0.7 2,625. 10-4 826.5625. 10-5% 100% 0.7 2,625. 10-4 164 13.125. 10-5 The prepared mixtures were deposited (26 μl) on the nitrile rubber strips. [0036] The tensor effect obtained according to the protocol described above was measured. Then, the water resistance of the tensor effect was evaluated by dipping the treated rubber strips with the polymer to be evaluated in water at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 10 minutes. The following results were obtained: Polymer tested Tensor effect Tensor effect after immersion in water Hybridure 875 correct correct reference Example 1 same as reference Same as reference Example the superior to the reference greater than the reference Example 1 b Same as reference idem with reference Example lc idem with reference idem with reference Example 2 idem with reference idem with reference Example 2a idem with reference higher than reference Example 2b idem with reference higher than reference Example 2c superior with reference reference greater than the reference Example 2d greater than the reference greater than the reference Example 1e less than the less than the reference but reference effect but tensor effect observed tensor observed Example1f less than the lower than reference but tensor effect observed reference but tensor effect observed Example 1g less than the idem at l reference reference but tensor effect observed Example 1h idem to the reference idem to the reference Example 1i Idem to the reference ditto the reference The results obtained show that the phosphonic polymers of Examples 1 and 2 alone or mixed with the amine compounds have a good tensor effect, even after immersion in water: the tensor effect is residual to water. Example 6 (Comparative): The quality of the films obtained with the polymers of Examples 1 and 2 according to the invention and also with the polymers of Examples 3 and 4 outside the invention were evaluated. The polymers were dissolved in 7% MA in an isododecane / ethanol mixture (70/30). 26 μl of the polymer solution was applied to a nitrile rubber web (as described in the previous example) and the appearance of the film obtained after air drying was observed for 24 hours at room temperature. The polymers 1 and 2 according to the invention form transparent and homogeneous films, while the polymers 3 and 4 outside the invention form white (non-transparent) and non-homogeneous films (crumbled film). EXAMPLE 7 An anti-wrinkle gel having the following composition is prepared: polymer of Example 1 7g 3g 100g disteardimonium hectorite / propylene carbonate in isodoecane (bentone gel ® ISDV from Elementis) - preservatives qs - lododecane / Ethanol (80/20 w / w) qsp A similar composition was also prepared using the polymer of Example 2. The resulting composition applied to the face effectively smooths wrinkles. EXAMPLE 8 An anti-wrinkle gel having the following composition is prepared: polymer of Example 1 7 g - disteardimonium hectorite / propylene carbonate in isodoecane (bentone gel ® ISDV from Elementis) 3 g - preservatives qs - Iododecane / ethanol (80/20 w / w) qs 100 g Just before application to the skin, is added in the ge1145.2 mg of 3aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES). The composition obtained, in mixture with the APTES, applied on the face makes it possible to smooth wrinkles effectively. EXAMPLE 9 An anti-wrinkle gel having the following composition is prepared: polymer of example 2 7 g - disteardimonium hectorite / propylene carbonate in isodoecane (bentone gel ® ISDV from Elementis) 3 g - Preservatives qs - lododecane / ethanol (80/20 w / w) qs 100 g Just before application to the skin, 228.2 mg of 3aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) are added to the gel. [0037] The composition obtained, in mixture with the APTES, applied on the face makes it possible to smooth wrinkles effectively. [0038] EXAMPLE 10 An anti-wrinkle gel having the following composition is prepared: polymer of Example 1 7g-disteardimonium hectorite / propylene carbonate in isodoecane (bentone gel® ISDV from Elementis) 3g-preservatives qs-lododecane / ethanol (80%) / 20 w / w) qs 100 g Just before application to the skin, 820 mg of PDMS diamine (DMS-A15 from Gelest) are added to the gel. The composition obtained, in combination with the PDMS diamine, applied to the face effectively smoothes wrinkles. [0039] EXAMPLE 11 An anti-wrinkle gel having the following composition is prepared: polymer of example 2 7g 3g 100 g disteardimonium hectorite / propylene carbonate in isodoecane (bentone gel ® ISDV from Elementis) - Preservatives qs - lododecane / ethanol (80/20 w / w) qsp The composition is applied to the wrinkled skin of the face. Let it dry for 1 hour. Then, the following solution is applied to the area of the treated skin: 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) 145.2 mg-lododecane / ethanol (80/20 w / w), for 100 g, and allowed to dry for 1 hour. The sequential application of the two compositions on the face makes it possible to smooth wrinkles effectively. 30 20
权利要求:
Claims (25) [0001] REVENDICATIONS1. Copolymer resulting from the polymerization of: (i) 70 to 95% by weight, of the total weight of the monomers, of isobornyl (meth) acrylate; (ii) 1 to 30% by weight of vinyl phosphonic acid monomer of formula (I): ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 denotes H 2 -CH 3; X is a covalent bond and n is an integer from 0 to 14; or X is -000- and n is an integer from 2 to 6; (iii) 0 to 20% by weight of a monomer added [0002] 2. Copolymer according to claim 1, characterized in that for the monomer (I): X denotes a covalent bond and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 6 or X denotes a group -000- and n is an integer ranging from 2 to 4. 20 [0003] 3. Copolymer according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for the monomer (I), R1 = H and X denotes a covalent bond and n is an integer ranging from 0 to [0004] 4. Copolymer according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monomer (I) is chosen from: vinyl phosphonic acid; 3-butenylphosphonic acid; 4-pentenylphosphonic acid; 10-undecenyl phosphonic acid; 11-dodecenylphosphonic acid; the 2-phosphonoethyl ester of 2-methyl-2-propenoic acid; the 2-phosphonoethyl ester of 2-propenoic acid; and preferably vinyl phosphonic acid. 35 [0005] 5. Copolymer according to claim 1, wherein the additional monomer is a monomer of formula (II): or a methyl radical; X denotes O or NH or NR3; R2 denotes linear or C1-C22 branched or branched C3-C10 or cyclic C5-C7 radical or a linear unsaturated C3-C20 or branched C6 hydrocarbon radical; -C 20 or cyclic C 5 -C 7 or a radical - (Si (CH 3) 2 O) b -CH 3 with b ranging from 5 to 70, it being understood that X = O when R 2 is a radical of formula - (Si (CH 3) 20) b-CH3; R3 denotes a linear C1-C12 or branched C3-C12 alkyl radical. [0006] 6. Copolymer according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is derived from the polymerization of: - 70 to 95% by weight, the total weight of the monomers, of (meth) acrylate isobornyl; 5 to 30% by weight of vinylphosphonic acid; and preferably from 75 to 95% by weight, of the total weight of the monomers, of isobornyl (meth) acrylate; 5 to 25% by weight of vinylphosphonic acid. [0007] 7. Copolymer according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is chosen from copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / vinylphosphonic acid (80/20) or 90/10 (w / w). [0008] 8. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a copolymer according to any one of the preceding claims. 25 [0009] 9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the copolymer is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 10%. by weight of active material, and preferably ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight. [0010] 10. Cosmetic skin care process, more particularly the skin of the face, in particular wrinkled skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition according to any one of claims 8 or 9. [0011] 11. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the topical application is carried out on the skin of an extemporaneous mixture of the composition according to one of claims 8 or 9 and an amine compound chosen from amino compounds having several primary amine and / or secondary amine groups and aminosilanes, or a composition containing it and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium. [0012] 12. The method of claim 10, characterized in that the sequential application is carried out on the skin of the composition according to one of claims 8 or 9 and an amino compound selected from amino compounds comprising several groups. primary amine and / or secondary amine and aminosilanes, or a composition containing it and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium. [0013] 13. Process according to any one of claims 11 or 12, characterized in that the amine compound comprises from 2 to 20 carbon atoms. [0014] 14. Process according to any one of Claims 11 to 13, characterized in that the amine compound is chosen from N-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl-1,3-diaminopropane and N-isopropyl-1. 3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl 1,3-diaminopropane, 2- (3-aminopropylamino) ethanol, 3- (2-aminoethyl) aminopropylamine, bis (3-aminopropyl) amine, methyl bis (3- aminopropyl) amine, N- (3-aminopropyl) -1,4-diaminobutane, N, N-dimethyldipropylene triamine, 1,2-bis (3-aminopropylamino) ethane, N, N'-bis (3- aminopropyl) -1,3-propanediamine, ethylene diamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, cystamine, xylene diamine, tris (2-aminoethyl) amine, spermidine ; aminosilanes of formula (III): R'1Si (OR'2), (R'3) x 30 in which: R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain, acyclic group substituted with a group chosen from the groups: amine NH 2 or NHR with R = C 1 -C 4 alkyl; an aryl or aryloxy group substituted by an amino group or by a C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl group; R'1 can be interrupted in its chain by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO), R'1 being bonded to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom, 40 - R'2 and R'3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3, and x represents an integer ranging from 0 to 2; with z + x = 3; and preferably selected from ethylene diamine, lysine, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and preferably is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane. [0015] 15. Method according to one of claims 11 or 12, characterized in that the amine compound is chosen from amino polymers, especially having a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 1 000 000, preferably from 500 to 500 000, and preferably ranging from 500 to 100 000. [0016] 16. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the amine compound is an aminated polymer chosen from poly (C2-C5 alkylene imines), and in particular polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, in particular poly (ethylene imine). ; poly (allylamine); polyvinylamines and their copolymers, especially with vinylamides; vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers; polyamino acids having NH 2 groups such as polylysine; dextran amino; polyvinyl amino alcohol, copolymers based on acrylamidopropylamine; chitosan; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amino groups at the chain end or on side chains, for example terminal or lateral aminopropyl groups, for example those of formula (A) or (B) or (C): NU 2 (A) (B) With: in formula (A): the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 55,000. In formula (B), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the silicone is from 1000 to 55,000. In the formula (C), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 3000; amodimethicones of formula (D): ## STR2 ## wherein R, R 'and R ", the same or different, each represents a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between about 5,000 and 500,000. Polyethers diamines and especially polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol a, w-diamine; polytetrahydrofuran (or polytetramethylene glycol) a, w-diamine, polybutadienes a, w-diamine, end-amine functional polyamidoamine dendrimers, poly (meth) acrylates or poly (meth) acrylamides bearing primary or secondary amine functions side such poly (3-aminopropyl) methacrylamide, poly (2-aminoethyl) methacrylate; and preferably polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol α, β-diamine and polydimethylsiloxanes having aminopropyl end groups. [0017] 17. Method according to any one of claims 11 to 16, characterized in that the amine compound is used in an amine compound / phosphonic acid molar ratio ranging from 0.01 to 10, preferably from 0.1. at 5, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 2, and more preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1. [0018] 18. A method according to any one of claims 11, 13 to 17, characterized in that it applies to the skin an extemporaneous mixture made less than 5 minutes before application to the skin of the composition according to claim 8. or 9 and the amine compound, or a composition containing it and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium. [0019] 19. Process according to any one of claims 12 to 18, characterized in that the composition according to claim 8 or 9 is applied to the skin first and then the amine compound or a composition containing it is applied and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium. [0020] 20. Process according to any one of Claims 12 to 18, characterized in that the amine compound or a composition containing it and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium is applied to the skin first, then the composition according to claim 8 or 9. [0021] 21. Process according to any one of claims 10 to 20, characterized in that the composition comprises an oil. [0022] 22. Method according to any one of claims 10 to 21, characterized in that it is intended to reduce wrinkles. 20 [0023] 23. Cosmetic use as skin tensor, in particular wrinkled skin, of a phosphonic polymer as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7 and optionally in admixture with an amine compound such as defined in one of claims 11 to 16. 25 [0024] 24. Composition obtained by mixing a composition according to claim 8 or 9 and an amino compound as defined in one of claims 11 to 16, or a composition containing it and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium. [0025] 25. Kit comprising a first composition according to claim 8 or 9 and a second composition comprising an amino compound as defined in one of claims 11 to 16 and comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, the first and second compositions being each conditioned in a separate packaging set.
类似技术:
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日 EP3161026A1|2017-05-03| US20170252283A1|2017-09-07| CN106572963A|2017-04-19| US10632058B2|2020-04-28| WO2015197778A1|2015-12-30| JP2017520658A|2017-07-27| ES2705053T3|2019-03-21| JP6715782B2|2020-07-01| BR112016029447A2|2017-08-22| FR3022909B1|2016-10-21| EP3161026B1|2018-10-10|
引用文献:
公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题 EP1621560A1|2004-07-29|2006-02-01|L'oreal|Hyperbranched polymer comprising selected monomers, composition and cosmetic process| EP1776946A2|2005-10-21|2007-04-25|L'oreal|Cosmetic composition containing a statistical vinyl polymer with linear main chain|WO2018185337A1|2017-04-07|2018-10-11|L'oreal|Hair dyeing process comprising a phosphonic ethylenic polymer and a pigment|DE4016549A1|1990-05-23|1991-11-28|Basf Ag|SYNTHETIC RESINS| KR100312178B1|1999-10-06|2001-11-03|서경배|the new amino acid silicon polymers, the method for producing them, the amino acid silicon polymer-suface treated cosmetic particles, and the cosmetic composition including the above particles| US20070092473A1|2005-10-21|2007-04-26|L'oreal|Cosmetic composition containing a statistical polymer with a linear main chain of ethylenic nature| FR2895250B1|2005-12-22|2012-08-17|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC POLY , AT LEAST ONE FATTY ALCOHOL AND AT LEAST ONE POLYOL, PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS AND USE OF THE COMPOSITION| EP2073786A2|2006-09-15|2009-07-01|L'Oreal|Leave-in hair dyeing process using a composition comprising a coloured polymer and an active cosmetic agent|FR3045614B1|2015-12-22|2018-01-26|L'oreal|SEQUENCE POLYMER WITH PHOSPHONIC ACID GROUPS AND COSMETIC APPLICATIONS| FR3064911B1|2017-04-07|2020-04-17|L'oreal|HAIR COLORING METHOD COMPRISING A SEQUENCE POLYMER WITH PHOSPHONIC ACID GROUPS AND A PIGMENT| KR102230712B1|2019-10-18|2021-03-22|이근수|Organic copolymer, process of synthesizing the organic copolymer, anti-reflection filim including the organic copolymer and application thereof|
法律状态:
2015-06-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 | 2016-01-01| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160101 | 2016-05-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 | 2017-05-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 | 2018-05-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 | 2020-05-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题 FR1455877A|FR3022909B1|2014-06-25|2014-06-25|PHOSPHONIC COPOLYMER AND COSMETIC USE FOR TREATING SKIN WRINKLES|FR1455877A| FR3022909B1|2014-06-25|2014-06-25|PHOSPHONIC COPOLYMER AND COSMETIC USE FOR TREATING SKIN WRINKLES| ES15732230T| ES2705053T3|2014-06-25|2015-06-25|Phosphonic copolymer and its use in cosmetics| US15/321,290| US10632058B2|2014-06-25|2015-06-25|Phosphonic copolymer and use thereof in the cosmetics field| JP2016574955A| JP6715782B2|2014-06-25|2015-06-25|Phosphonic acid copolymers and their use in the cosmetics field| PCT/EP2015/064429| WO2015197778A1|2014-06-25|2015-06-25|Phosphonic copolymer and use thereof in the cosmetics field| BR112016029447A| BR112016029447A2|2014-06-25|2015-06-25|copolymer, compositions, care or make-up process for keratin materials, cosmetic use and kit| CN201580045657.2A| CN106572963A|2014-06-25|2015-06-25|Phosphonic copolymer and use thereof in cosmetics field| EP15732230.6A| EP3161026B1|2014-06-25|2015-06-25|Phosphonic copolymer and use thereof in the cosmetics field| 相关专利
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