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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a makeup assembly for a keratinous material, in particular nails, lips, eyelids, eyelashes, eyebrows, or the eye contour, comprising, at least: a first composition intended to be applied on the keratinous material, the first composition being a composition capable of forming a reflective layer, - a second composition intended to be applied to the first composition, said second composition being a translucent and colored composition. The present invention also relates to a makeup process.
    公开号:FR3022453A1
    申请号:FR1455689
    申请日:2014-06-20
    公开日:2015-12-25
    发明作者:De Bezons Jean Dominique Bazin；Dolores Colombel
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The present invention relates to a makeup assembly for a keratin material, in particular nails, lips, eyelids, eyelashes, eyebrows, or around the eyes, comprising a first particular composition applied to the keratinous material and a second particular composition, different from the first composition, applied successively to said first composition. The present invention also relates to a process for making up such a keratin material. Consumers are looking for make-up products that are radically innovative and able to surprise them. To meet their needs, the cosmetics industry launches make-up products with expanded color palettes, or associates with these products application devices for some intended to create new effects or new textures. However, these makeup products can be expensive, may have optical or sensory effects that are not unanimous among consumers, or may create these effects to the detriment of the cosmetic properties usually sought in makeup products such as holding, comfort or quantity of product deposited. The makeup products are generally applied by application of successive layers by the user in order to arrive at a deposited quantity of product deemed satisfactory. In certain makeup applications, certain make-up products recommend applying a first composition to the keratin material, more commonly called a base coat, and successively applying a second composition to said first composition, more commonly known as a top coat. The base coat can have several functions. This base coat can be a layer of colored composition protected by a transparent and colorless top coat. In such a case the top coat is generally intended to protect said base coat from degradation over time (scratching, flaking, crumbling), or to improve its durability over time. Such a top coat thus forms a shield for the base coat with regard to the living conditions of users, in particular water, detergent products, soaps or weather conditions being likely to affect the integrity of the products of makeup applied to keratin materials.
    [0002] This base coat can still form a transparent and colorless substrate intended to facilitate the adhesion of an opaque and colored top coat, especially on smooth keratin materials, such as nails. Moreover, such a configuration can also give rise to the application of a second transparent and colorless top coat 5 intended to protect the opaque and colored top coat. An object of the invention is therefore to provide a set and a process for making up keratin materials capable of creating surprising optical effects, in particular a depth effect. An object of the invention is therefore to provide a set and a process for the makeup of keratin materials capable of creating optical effects that can be used in several make-up applications, such as the makeup of nails, lips, skin, etc. eyelids or the eye area. An object of the invention is still to provide a set and a process for making customizable keratin materials, offering a wide choice of 15 colors. An object of the invention is also to provide a set and a method of making up the keratinous materials that can be applied to adapt existing formulations, easily industrializable, and easily used with an easily reproducible optical effect.
    [0003] The subject of the present invention is therefore, according to a first aspect, which satisfies at least one of the abovementioned problems, a set of make-up of a keratin material, in particular nails, lips, eyelids, eyelashes, eyebrows, or the eye contour, comprising at least: a first composition intended to be applied to the keratinous material, the first composition being a composition capable of forming a reflective layer, and a second composition intended to be applied on the first composition, said second composition being a translucent and colored composition. After applying the first composition in the form of a base layer in contact with the keratinous material, for example the nail, then the second composition in the form of a coating layer of the base layer, the The user can observe that by looking at the deposit made, the coating layer can create a depth effect of said base layer.
    [0004] With the present invention, it is possible to apply a plurality of layers of coating layers making it possible to darken the hue while being very saturated (intense color), making it possible to obtain a so-called "deep" hue ( possibility of dark coloration while remaining translucent to see through the base layer). In addition, the present invention makes it possible to modulate the clarity and saturation of the hue obtained from the second composition applied by varying the number of deposited layers. A depth effect is obtained thus resulting from a high chromaticity (intense hue) associated on the one hand with both a decrease in clarity (depending on the number of layers of deposited coating), and on the other hand at a certain translucency of this (these) layer (s) of coating, to perceive the light reflected by the base layer. The translucency of the coating layer allows the light to reflect on the base layer to enhance the chromaticity of the coating layer (color intensity). According to particular embodiments fulfilling at least one of the above-mentioned technical problems, the make-up assembly according to the invention has the following technical characteristics: the first composition comprises at least one metallic reflective particle; the metal reflective particle (s) is (are) chosen from the group consisting of pure or composite metal particles, optionally oxidized, multilayer interference pigments, possibly covered with brightener (s) optical (s), and their mixture, in particular the multilayer interference (s) pigment (s) being chosen (s) from the group consisting of nacres, goniochromatic pigments, possibly covered with brightener (s) ) optical (s), and their mixture; The metal reflective particle (s) is (are) present at a total content ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, more specifically from 3 to 30% by weight, of preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition; when the first composition is a nail polish, the metallic reflective particle (s) is (are) present at a total content ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, more precisely from 4 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition; When the first composition is a lipstick, the metal reflective particle (s) is (are) present at a total content ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, more precisely 4 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition; The first composition has a color rendition selected from the group consisting of white, pink, metallic, in particular silvery or golden, and pastel; the first composition has a coverage CR greater than or equal to 75%, better still 80%, more preferably 85%, in particular 75 to 100%, a chroma C * less than or equal to 40, preferably 30, better at 20, more preferably 10 to 10, in particular at 5 or 2.5, and preferably a luminance L * greater than or equal to 60, preferably 65 to 100, according to the measurement protocols defined in the description; the first composition comprises at least one volatile solvent, in particular organic solvent, preferably the volatile solvent (s) being present in a total content ranging from 20 to 80% by weight, in particular of 30 to 75% by weight, in particular 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition; the first composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer, the film-forming polymer (s) being present in a total content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, better still from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the first composition; the first composition comprises at least one plasticizer, preferably the plasticizer (s) being present at a total content ranging from 1% to 15%, preferably from 1% to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition; the first composition comprises metal reflecting particles which have not undergone any grinding step during the manufacturing process of said first composition; the second composition comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from the group consisting of organic pigments, colored fluorescent agents and their mixture, preferably from the group consisting of organic pigments; The second composition comprises at least one dyestuff, the dyestuff (s) being present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0 to 30% by weight; 10 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the second composition; when the second composition is a nail polish, the colorant (s) is (are) present at a total content ranging from 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.10 to 0.75% by weight, based on the total weight of the second composition; when the second composition is a lipstick, the colorant (s) is (are) present (s) at a total content ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 4 % by weight, based on the total weight of the second composition; The second composition has a color rendition selected from the group consisting of pigments, or lacquers, colored organic, certain colored mineral pigments (such as C177510, C177007), colored hybrid pigments, colored fluorescent agents, and their mixture, of preferably from colored organic pigments, colored fluorescent agents, and mixtures thereof, preferably from colored organic pigments; the second composition has a coverage CR ranging from 15 to 70%, in particular from 20 to 50%, and a chroma C * ranging from 30 to 90, preferably from 35 to 75, and preferably a higher luminance L * or 40, in particular ranging from 45 to 90, according to the measurement protocols defined below in the description; The second composition comprises at least one volatile solvent, in particular an organic solvent, preferably the volatile solvent (s) being present in a total content ranging from 20 to 80% by weight, in particular of 30 to 75% by weight, in particular 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition; the second composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer, the film-forming polymer (s) being present (s) at a total content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, better still from 5 to 40% by weight , in particular from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition; the second composition comprises at least one plasticizer, preferably the plasticizer (s) being present at a total content ranging from 1% to 15%, preferably from 1% to 7%, by weight; ratio to the total weight of the second composition; the second composition comprises dyestuffs which have undergone a grinding stage during the process for manufacturing said second composition.
    [0005] The protocols for measuring the parameters mentioned above are as follows. CR Contrast Ratio 5 The application can be performed with an automatic spreader. The Contrast Ratio of the first and second compositions is evaluated by preparing a 3001.1m film on a contrast card (BYK Chan PA-2814 type) showing a white part and a black part using an automatic spreader. allowed to dry for 24 hours on a bench thermostated at 30 ° C and then measured on the white background. Color measurements were made using a spectrocolorimeter, a Datacolor 600. The colorimeter provides the numerical data representing the absolute value and the color difference between a reference sample and a sample to be tested. We use in our study the absolute values of each film sample on the white background for the color by integrating the black background for the calculation of the coverage. The operating conditions are as follows: - CIE standard observer 1964 10 ° - Illuminant CIE type D65 20 - Measuring geometry: Diffuse / 8 ° measurement geometry and observation D65 / 10 °, specular component mode included (SCI), average opening ( 20mm) on black and white backgrounds. The apparatus is provided with an optical device producing a diffuse light, placed in a spherical cavity coated with a white layer which induces a multiple reflection of the light. An anti-gloss trap can eliminate the effects of gloss on the surface of the sample. The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the CIELab76 space within the meaning of the International Commission on Illumination according to Recommendation 15: 2004.
    [0006] The contrast ratio is calculated by mathematically averaging Y values on a black background, divided by the Y average on a white background, multiplied by 100.
    [0007] 3022453 7 Average (Ynoir) Contrast Ratio = * 100 Average (Yblanc) - Luminance: L * The luminance obtained with said first and second compositions is visually evaluated on the white background of a BYK Chart PA-2814 type contrast card 5 and read with Datacolor 600 spectrocolorimeter, (D65 illuminant, 10 ° angle, SCI values) for L * colorimetric measurements. In an L * a * b * system, the lower the value of L *, the darker the color. Chromaticity: C * 10 The chromaticity of the first and second compositions in the CIE system L *, a *, b * is calculated according to the following equation: C * = The higher the C * value, the more saturated the coloration obtained .
    [0008] The subject of the present invention is also according to a second aspect satisfying at least one of the abovementioned problems, a process for making up a keratin material, in particular nails, lips, eyelids, eyelashes, eyebrows, or the eye contour, using a set of makeup as defined above, preferably comprising: at least a first step of applying a first composition to said keratin material, said first composition forming a reflective layer, and - at least a second step, subsequent to said first step, applying a second composition to said first composition, said second composition being a translucent and colored composition. According to particular embodiments that respond to at least one of the above-mentioned technical problems, the makeup process according to the invention has the following steps: at least one step of drying, preferably in the open air, of said first composition applied, and this before application of said second composition. Of course, the particular characteristics defining the first and second compositions are also valid for this makeup process.
    [0009] Makeup set A makeup set according to the invention comprises: a first composition intended to be applied to the keratinous material, the first composition being a composition capable of forming a reflective layer, and a second composition intended to be applied. on the first composition, said second composition being a translucent and colored composition. Such an assembly is intended for the makeup of a keratin material, in particular the nails, the lips, the skin such as the eyelids, the eye contour, or the eyelashes or the eyebrows, preferably the nails, the lips, the skin, more preferably the nails. The invention may thus also be in the form of a conditioning and makeup device comprising: i) a first container comprising an applicator adapted to apply the said first composition to the keratin material, ii) a second container comprising a suitable applicator to apply to the keratin material said first composition. This first composition and this second composition may be packaged in a unitary or non-unitary device.
    [0010] The unitary device may for example be in the form of a tube. This unitary device may for example comprise the first and second receptacles secured together by appropriate fastening means via a connecting piece. When the device is non-unitary, the containers are in separate form, the latter may for example be marketed by being contained in the same package or separately with respective explicit recommendations for use of the first and second containers.
    [0011] The first composition is preferably intended to be applied directly to the keratinous material, in direct contact with the keratinous material.
    [0012] The keratinous material is preferably selected from the group consisting of nails, lips, skin such as eyelids, eye contour, eyelashes, eyebrows, preferably, nails, lips, skin, more preferentially the nails. This first composition is preferably intended to form a base layer, more commonly called base coat, for the second composition.
    [0013] According to the invention, this first composition is capable of forming, after application to said keratin material, a reflective layer. By "reflective layer" is meant that the first composition has: a coverage greater than or equal to 75%, better than 80%, more preferably 85%, in particular ranging from 75 to 100%, - a chroma C * less than or equal to 40, in particular 30, more preferably 20, more preferably 10, preferably 5 or even 2.5, preferably a luminance, or reflectance, L * greater than or equal to 60, in particular from 65 to 100, according to the protocols given above in the description.
    [0014] It should be noted that its values are obtained on a layer of first composition alone. Preferably, a first composition according to the invention has a color rendering white, pink, metallized, in particular silver or golden, or pastel. This first composition comprises at least one metallic reflective particle. Metallic Reflective Particles By "reflective particle" are meant particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and the surface state, allow them to reflect. the incident light with sufficient intensity to be able to create on the surface of the claimed composition, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, points of brightness visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points that contrast with their surroundings while appearing to shine. The reflective particles may disturb the visual perception of the curvature of the makeup medium, tending to prevent a durable visual focus, the gloss points being likely to appear or disappear randomly when the makeup medium and the observer are animated . The reflective particles used must be compatible with use in cosmetics and must be able to remain in the composition, and in particular not dissolve, or in any case not dissolve entirely, therein. The reflective particles advantageously have a size compatible with the manifestation of a specular reflection of visible light (400-700 nm) of sufficient intensity to create a point of brilliance. This size is likely to vary according to the chemical nature of the particles, their shape and their specular reflection power of visible light. By "metal" is meant comprising, or consisting of, at least one metal, a metal alloy or a (poly) metal oxide.
    [0015] The metallic reflective particle (s) present in this first composition is (are) preferably chosen from: isolated pure metal particles, optionally oxidized, in particular chosen among aluminum, bronze, silver, gold, bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof; Composite metal particles, in particular that may result from an alloy of several metals, at least one of the metals possibly being oxidized, metal particles in the form of a layer (s), in particular of the multilayer interference pigments type, in particular covering a natural or synthetic substrate, preferably a natural or synthetic mineral substrate, the (the) optionally composite (s) on a substrate, optionally multilayer, the (the) metal (metals) optionally being oxidized (s); - and their mixture.
    [0016] A first composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of reflective metal particles ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, more specifically from 3 to 30% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to total weight of the first composition.
    [0017] 5 A / Pure or composite metal particles, optionally oxidized A first composition according to the invention may comprise as metallic reflective particles pure metal particles, or composite, optionally oxidized.
    [0018] Such particles may for example be selected from aluminum alone or in the form of a composite (Cosmicolor®), bismuth oxychloride, bronze, silver, gold, titanium oxide. , and their mixture. A first composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of such particles ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, more specifically from 3 to 30% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight. total of the first composition. B / Multilayer Interferential Pigments A first composition according to the invention may comprise, as metallic reflective particles, one or more multilayer interference (s) pigment (s). The term "multilayer interference pigment" denotes a pigment capable of producing a color by an interference phenomenon between the light rays reflected by a plurality of superimposed layers of different refractive indices, in particular a succession of top and bottom layers. refractive indices.
    [0019] All multilayer interference pigments can be envisaged. The color produced by the multilayer interference pigment may be arbitrary, for example being of dominant wavelength between 580 and 650 nm or not. The composition may comprise a single multilayer interference pigment or a plurality of multilayer interference pigments having different dominant wavelengths.
    [0020] The multilayer interference pigment may comprise a substrate (also called a core or core) covered on at least one face with one or more layers of materials and thicknesses selected so that a color is produced by interference.
    [0021] Interferential pigment layers may or may not surround the substrate, which may have a flattened or non-flat shape. The substrate may comprise natural mica, synthetic mica, glass, alumina, silica, or any metal, alloy or metal oxide. The nature of the substrate may be chosen according to the desired gloss. For example, for a very bright rendering, a glass or metal substrate may be preferred. The interference pigment may comprise more than four layers of different refractive indices. The particle size of the multilayer interference pigment, given by the average particle size at half of the population, also called D50, is, for example, from 1 μm to 2000 μm, better still from 51 μm to 2000 μm. The coverage of the composition may be due essentially to the content of multilayer interference pigment. The multilayer interference pigments may be chosen from nacres, goniochromatic pigments and their mixture.
    [0022] A first composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of multilayer interference pigments 2 to 40% by weight, more specifically from 3 to 30% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition. A) Nacres A first composition according to the invention may comprise one or more nacre (s). By "mother-of-pearl" it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with with an organic dye in particular as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. These particles may be chosen from particles having a natural or synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, chosen, for example, from titanium oxides, in particular TiO 2, in particular Fe 2 O 3, tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following materials: 10 MgF 2, CrF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, SeO 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, MoS 2 and mixtures thereof or alloys. By way of example of such particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or particles of coated glass of brown iron oxide, of titanium oxide, of tin oxide or one of their mixtures such as those sold under the trade name REFLECKS® by ENGELHARD. The nacres may have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. By way of nonlimiting examples of nacres, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the nacres comprising the following elements: MICA-TITANIUM OXIDE (for example marketed under the trade name TIMICA SPARKLE 110P from BASF, FLAMENCO BLUE BASF, CANDURIN BROWN AMBER from MERCK, PEARLESCENT PIGMENT PRESTIGE GOLD from SUDARSHAN etc.) 25-MICA-TANK OXIDE N-LAUROYL-L-LYSINE TITANIUM (for example marketed under the commercial reference LLD-10 FLAMENCO VIOLET from DAITO KASEI KOGYO etc.) - MICA-OXIDE IRON (for example sold under the trade reference PEARLESCENT PIGMENT PRESTIGE SOFT BRONZE from 30 SUDARSHAN, MERCK COLORONA BRONZE SPARKLE, TIMICA GOLDEN BRONZE from BASF, CANDURIN LIGHT GOLD from MERCK, DUOCROME YR 422 C from BASF, GEMTONE TAN OPAL G 005 from BASF etc); 3022453 14 - TITANIUM MICA-OXIDE-IRON OXIDE (for example marketed under the commercial reference TIMICA BRILLIANT GOLD 212 G GEMTONE GOLDSTONE G0014 or TIMICA GOLDEN BRONZE BASF etc.); MICA-OXYCHLORIDE OF BISMUTH-IRON OXIDE (for example sold under the commercial reference CHROMA-LITE YELLOW of BASF, etc.); - MICA-TITANIUM OXIDE-CHROMIUM OXIDE-IRON OXIDE (for example marketed under the commercial reference GEMTONE JADE BASF etc); TITANIUM MICA-OXIDE TIN-OXIDE (for example marketed under the commercial reference FLAMENCO SUPER BLUE 630 Z from BASF, HELIOS R100R from TOPY etc); - MICA-SILICA-TITANIUM OXIDE (for example marketed under the trade name TIMIRON SPLENDID RED MERCK etc.); 15 - PLATELETS OF CALCIUM BOROSILICATE AND SODIUM COATED WITH TITANIUM OXIDE AND TIN OXIDE (for example marketed under the commercial reference REFLECKS RAYS OF RED BASF G430L etc); - PLATELETS OF CALCIUM BOROSILICATE AND SODIUM 20 COATED WITH TIN OXIDE AND IRON OXIDE (for example marketed under the commercial reference MIRAGE SPARKLING CHAMPAGNE from ECKART, etc.) - CALCIUM AND ALUMINUM BORON PADS COATED WITH OXIDE TITANIUM AND TIN OXIDE optionally TREATED SILICA (for example marketed under the trade name RONASTAR MERCK etc.); - CALCIUM AND ALUMINUM BOROSILICATE PADS COATED WITH SILICA OXIDE AND TIN OXIDE (for example sold under the trade name RONASTAR GOLDEN JEWEL SQ of MERCK, etc.) 30 - TITANIUM OXIDE COATED GLASS POWDER (for example marketed under the trade name REFLECKS DIMENSIONS GLITTERING GOLD G230S from BASF or METASHINE MC112ORY from NSG etc.); ALUMINA and TITANIUM OXIDE (for example sold under the trade name SPECTRAFLEX FOCUS RED C88-1031 from SUN, etc.); it being understood that the mica may be natural or synthetic and that oxide is equivalent to (poly) oxide.
    [0023] Thus, according to an advantageous embodiment, the metal reflective particles according to the invention comprise at least one element chosen from the following Color Index numbers: 77000, 77002, 77004, 77019, 77120, 77163, 77220, 77231, 77400, 77480, 77711, 77718, 77820, 77891, 77947, and their mixture (s), it being understood that the metal reflective particles comprise at least one metal element in (poly) oxidized form or not. Preferably a composition according to the invention comprises nacres of white or silver color. A first composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of nacre (s) ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, more specifically from 3 to 30% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to total weight of the first composition. b) Goniochromatic Pigments A first composition according to the invention may comprise one or more goniochromatic pigment (s). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic pigment" denotes a pigment which makes it possible, when the composition is spread on a support, to obtain a color path in the plane a * b * of the corresponding CIE 1976 color space. at a variation Dh ° of the h ° angle angle of at least 20 ° when the observation angle is varied with respect to the normal between 0 ° and 80 °, for an angle of incidence 45 ° light. The color path can be measured, for example, by means of an INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS spectrogonioreflectometer and GON 360 GONIOMETER reference, after the composition has been spread in a fluid state with a thickness of 300 μm by means of an automatic spreader on an ERICHSEN brand contrast card and Typ 24/5 reference, the measurement being made on the black background of the card.
    [0024] The goniochromatic pigment may be selected for example from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise for example at least two layers, each layer being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF 2, CeF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, S 2 O 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. The multilayer structure may or may not have, relative to a core layer, symmetry in the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures are, for example, the following structures: Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2 Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 and TiO 2 / Al 2 O 3 / TiO 2, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). Liquid crystal coloring agents include, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company Chenix as well as those sold under the name HELICONE® HC by the company Wacker. As the goniochromatic pigment, it is also possible to use certain nacres, pigments having effects on a synthetic substrate, in particular an alumina-like substrate, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide, aluminum, or interfering flakes derived from a polyterephthalate film. By way of nonlimiting examples of gonionchromatic pigments, the following gonionochromatic pigments can be mentioned, alone or as a mixture,: SYNTHETIC MICA-TITANIUM-SILICA OXIDE TIN-OXIDE (for example sold under the commercial reference SUNSHINE by SUN etc); 3022453 17 - SILVER-COATED ALUMINUM PADS AS AN INTERFERENTIAL LAYER AND SILVER NANOPARTICLE AS AN EXTERNAL LAYER (for example marketed under the trade name COSMICOLOR CELESTE by TOYO ALUMINUM K.K. 5 etc.); - TITANIUM SILICA-OXIDE (MICA-) TIN OXIDE (for example sold under the trade name XIRONA by MERCK) - CALCIUM AND SODIUM-SILICA-TITANIUM OXIDE TIN-OXIDE PADS (for example sold under the name commercial reference 10 REFLECKS MULTIDIMENSIONS by BASF). A first composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of goniochromatic pigments ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, more specifically from 3 to 30% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
    [0025] If appropriate, these metal reflective particles and in particular these multilayer interference pigments may comprise or be covered with optical brightener (s). Brighteners are white organic fluorescent substances.
    [0026] Optical brighteners are compounds well known to those skilled in the art. Such compounds are described in "Fluorescent Whitening Agent, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer", Vol 11, p. 227-241, 4th edition, 1994, Wiley. In particular, their use in cosmetics benefits from the fact that they consist of chemical compounds with fluorescent properties that absorb in the ultraviolet (maximum absorption at a wavelength of less than 400 nm) and re-emit energy. by fluorescence for a wavelength between 380 and 830 nm. They can more particularly be defined as compounds which absorb essentially in the UVA between 300 and 390 nm and re-emit essentially between 400 and 525 nm.
    [0027] Their lightening effect is more particularly based on an energy emission of between 400 and 480 nm, which corresponds to an emission in the blue of the visible domain, which contributes, when this emission takes place on the skin, to the clear up visually. Stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinstilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarines and aminocoumarines, oxazole derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives, imidazole derivatives, triazole derivatives, pyrazoline derivatives, and derivatives thereof, are especially known as optical brighteners. pyrene, porphyrin derivatives and mixtures thereof. These include the following derivatives: the stilbene derivative of naphtho-triazole sold under the trade name "Tinopal GS", di-styryl-4,4'-biphenyl-di-sodium sulfonate (CTFA name: disodium distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate) sold under the trade name "Tinopal CBSX", the cationic derivative of aminocoumarin sold under the trade name "Tinopal SWN CONC. Sodium 4,4'-bis [(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene-2,2'-disulfonate sold under the trade name "Tinopal SOP" , 4,4'-bis- [(4-anilino-6-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene-2,2 '- acid disulphonic sold under the trade name "Tinopal UNPA-GX", 4,4'-bis [anilino-6-morpholine-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene sold under the trade name "Tinopal AMS -GX ", 4,4'-bis [(4-anilino-6- (2-hydroxyethyl) methylamino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene-2,2'-disodium sulfonate sold under the trade name "Tinopal 5BM-GX", all by CIBA Specialties Chimiques; - 2,5 thiophene di-yl bis (5-tert-butyl-1,3 benzoxazole) sold under the trade name "Uvitex OB" by the company CIBA; the anionic derivative of di-aminostilbene dispersed in water sold under the trade name Leucophor B SB liquid by the company Clariant; and - their mixtures. Optical brighteners that may be used in the present invention may also be in the form of copolymers, for example acrylates and / or methacrylates, grafted with optical brightening groups as described in application FR 99 30 10942.
    [0028] These metal reflective particles may be formulated in the first composition with: at least one volatile solvent, in particular an organic solvent, preferably at least one film-forming polymer, preferably at least one plasticizer, optionally at least one agent dispersant, as well as any other compound capable of preserving the previously defined optical characteristics of reflective layer for this first composition.
    [0029] Volatile Solvents The first composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile solvent, preferably an organic solvent. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile solvent" means a solvent capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent (s) of the invention are liquid solvents at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa. (101 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg); mm Hg).
    [0030] The volatile solvent of the composition is preferably selected from the group consisting of C 2 -C 5 alcohols, C 5 -C 12 alkanes, C 3 -C 6 esters and ketones and mixtures thereof. By "C 2 -C 5 alcohol" is meant an organic compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group -OH, preferably exactly one hydroxyl group -OH, and 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and which is otherwise liquid at temperature. ambient temperature, that is, from 15 ° C to 30 ° C. C2-05 alcohols suitable for the invention include in particular ethanol and isopropanol. By "C 5 -C 12 alkane" is meant a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated hydrocarbon compound consisting exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, which is otherwise liquid at room temperature. that is, from 15 ° C to 30 ° C. In the context of the present invention, the alkanes preferably comprise from 5 to 12, preferably from 5 to 10, advantageously from 5 to 8, carbon atoms. Suitable C5-C12 alkanes include heptane and its isomers, decane and isomers thereof, cyclohexane and dodecane and isomers thereof. Examples of C 3 -C 6 esters and ketones that may be mentioned include acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, cyclohexanone and alkyl acetates in which the alkyl group comprises from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isobutyl acetate and tert-butyl acetate. According to a particular embodiment, the first composition comprises a total content of volatile solvent (s) of between 20 and 80% by weight, in particular between 30 and 75% by weight, in particular between 40 and 70% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition. Film-forming Polymers The first composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer, preferably soluble in the volatile solvent (s). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" denotes a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, an isolatable film, in particular a continuous and adherent film, on a support, in particular on nails. In the composition, a single film-forming polymer or a mixture of film-forming polymers can be used. This film-forming polymer may be chosen from the group consisting of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures. A film-forming polymer suitable for the invention may be chosen in particular from: - cellulosic polymers or polysaccharide derivatives, such as cellulose or guar gum derivatives. A polysaccharide derivative suitable for the invention may be a polysaccharide ester or alkyl ether. The term "polysaccharide ester or alkyl ether" denotes a polysaccharide formed of repeating units comprising at least two identical or different rings and having a degree of substitution per saccharide unit of between 1.9 and 3, preferably of between 2.2. and 2.9, and more particularly between 2.4 and 2.8. By substitution, the functionalization of the hydroxyl groups into ester and / or alkylether functions and / or the functionalization of the carboxylic groups into ester functions is denoted by 3022453. In other words, it may be a polysaccharide partially or totally substituted with ester and / or alkyl ether groups. Preferably, the hydroxyl groups may be substituted by ester and / or alkyl ether C2-C4 functions. Mention may in particular be made of cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrates or cellulose acetopropianates; cellulose alkylethers such as ethylcelluloses, and ethylguars; synthetic polymers such as homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene-functional compound, acrylic polymers and copolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyureas, silicone polymers such as silicone resins, silicone polyamides, polymers with a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polyamide polymers and copolymers, polyisoprenes, vinyl polymers, polyvinylbutyrals, alkyd resins and ketone / aldehyde resins, resins derived from condensation products of aldehydes, such as arylsulfonamide formaldehyde resins such as toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resin, epoxy / tosylamide resins, epoxy aryl-sulfonamide resins or ethyl tosylamide resins; polymers of natural origin, such as plant resins such as dammars, elemi, copals, benzoin; gums such as shellac, sandalwood gum and putty gum. As film-forming polymer, it is especially possible to use toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resins "Ketjentflex MS80" from the company Akzo or "Santolite MHP", "Santolite MS 80" from the company Fontronno or "Resimpol 80" 25 from the company PAN AMERICANA, the resin "BECKOSOL ODE 230-70-E" alkyd from the company DAINIPPON, the acrylic resin "ACRYLOID B66" from the company ROHM & HAAS, the polyurethane resin "TRIXENE PR 4127" from BAXENDEN, the acetophenone / formaldehyde resin marketed under the Synthetic Resin SK reference by Degussa.
    [0031] According to a particular embodiment, the film-forming polymer is chosen from polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives, preferably from ethers and esters of polysaccharides, in particular from C2-C4, and more preferably is chosen from 3022453 among the acetobutyrates of cellulose, cellulose acetate propianates, cellulose acetate, ethylcelluloses, ethylguars, nitrocellulose, epoxy / tosylamide resins, acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the first composition comprises a total content of film-forming polymer (s) of between 1 and 50% by weight, in particular between 5 and 40% by weight, in particular between 10 and 25% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition. Plasticizers The first composition according to the invention may comprise at least one plasticizer. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "plasticizer" is intended to denote a compound, in the liquid state more or less viscous, which, added to a formulation of a given material, such as a polymer, makes it possible to make it more tackant, more adherent, more flexible, more resistant and / or easier to handle. As plasticizer, mention may be made in particular of the usual plasticizers such as glycols and their derivatives, such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether or diethylene glycol hexyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol methyl ether, ethylene glycol butyl ether, ethylene glycol hexyl ether, glycol esters, propylene glycol derivatives and in particular propylene glycol phenyl ether, propylene glycol diacetate, dipropylene glycol butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether propylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol methyl ether and diethylene glycol methyl ether, propylene glycol butyl ether, especially carboxylic acid esters, such as citrates, especially triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, , triethyl acetylcitrate, acetylcitrate tributyl, triethyl-2 hexyl acetyl citrate; phthalates, especially dimethoxyethyl phthalate; phosphates, especially tricresyl phosphate, tributyl phosphate, triphenyl phosphate, tributoxyethyl phosphate; tartrates, especially dibutyl tartrate; adipates; carbonates; sebacates; benzyl benzoate, butyl acetylricinoleate, glyceryl acetylricinoleate, butylglycolate, camphor, glycerol triacetate, N-ethyl-o, p-toluenesulfonamide, oxyethylenated derivatives such as oils 3022453 23 oxyethylenated, especially vegetable oils, such as castor oil, and more generally non-volatile oils, in particular nonvolatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the plasticizer (s) content is from 1% to 15%, preferably from 1% to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition. Thixotropic Agents The first composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thixotropic agent.
    [0032] Preferably this (these) agent (s) is (are) chosen from bentonite 27G (stearalkonium hectorite by Elementis), silica (Aerosil 200 sold by Evonik Degusa, preferably the content of agent (s) thixotropic (s) is from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 0.5% to 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.
    [0033] Of course, other compounds may be present in the first composition provided that these compounds do not interfere with the reflectivity of the first applied composition.
    [0034] Second composition The second composition is intended to be applied directly to the first composition, previously applied in contact with the keratin material in the form of one or more layers. This second composition is preferably intended to form a coating layer, more commonly called a top coat, for coating the previously applied base layer (s). This second composition is according to the invention capable of forming after application to said keratin material a translucent colored layer. By "colored translucent layer" is meant that the second composition 30 has: - a low coverage ranging from 15 to 70%, in particular from 20 to 50%, - a chroma C * ranging from 30 to 90, preferably from 35 to at 75, 3022453 24 - a luminance greater than or equal to 40, in particular ranging from 45 to 90, according to the protocols given above in the description. It should be noted that its values are obtained on a layer of second composition alone (not applied to a layer of first composition).
    [0035] These optical values are obtained with a layer of second composition of thickness defined above. However, it should be noted that these results are advantageously also observed after application of two layers of second composition (6001.1m). Thus, preferably, even after re-applying a second layer of second composition to the first layer, the second composition maintains its colored translucent character. The application of this second layer makes it possible, surprisingly, to impart a depth effect to the first layer previously applied to the nail. A second composition according to the invention has for example and without limitation a color rendering for example of orange, fuchsia, purple, yellow, blue, green, pink, etc. The dyestuff (s) present in this second composition is (are) preferably selected from: colored organic pigments, colored fluorescent agents, and mixtures thereof. A second composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of dyestuff (s) ranging from (cf p.4): from 0.12% to 0.55% (for silicone RAL: 2.45% of organic pigment) Colored organic pigments A second composition according to the invention may comprise one or more colored organic pigment (s). By "colored organic pigments" is meant particles of any shape, colored, organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition. The organic pigments may, for example, be chosen from the following materials and their mixtures: cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of the D & C 5 certified pigments known under the following names: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange # 5, D & C Orange # 10, D & C Orange # 11, D & C Red # 6, D & C Red # 7, D & C Red # 17, D & C Red # 21, D & C Red # 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C 10 Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6 - Mineral pigments such as e.g. The chemical materials corresponding to each of the above-mentioned organic dyestuffs are mentioned in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528. , published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. A second composition according to the invention may comprise a total pigment content ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition. Colored Fluorescent Agents The dye (s) present in the second composition may be selected from colored fluorescent agents (distinct from white). Fluorescent agents are well known to those skilled in the art. They can be pigments or dyes. Pigments are understood to mean particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition. By dye is meant chemical compounds solubilized in the composition. The dyes can be water soluble or fat soluble. Fluorescent substances are for example described in "Luminescent Materials (Fluorescent Daylight), Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer", Vol 14, pp. 546-569, 3rd edition, 1981, Wiley.
    [0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fluorescent agent" is intended to mean a substance which, under the effect of ultraviolet light and / or of visible light, re-emits in the visible light the portion of light which it has absorbed under the same color. than the one it naturally reflects. The naturally reflected color is thus enhanced by the re-emitted color and appears extremely bright. As the fluorescent agent, it is possible to use inorganic fluorescent substances such as those described in application JP05-117127 and in particular zinc oxide-based inorganic fluorescent substances. Fluorescent agents that can also be used include organic fluorescent substances such as fluorescent pigments in the light of day: these pigments are generally made from fluorescent dyes which are previously dissolved in a carrier resin in order to obtain a solid solution which is then milled into a powder of resin particles having fluorescent properties. The preparation of such fluorescent pigments is written in EP 0 370 470, US 2, 851, 424, US 3, 711, 604, US 3, 856, 550 and US 2,938,878. The fluorescent pigments are particularly suitable for The present invention may thus be chosen from polyamide and / or formaldehyde / benzoguanamine and / or melamine / formaldehyde / sulphonamide colored resins, from colored aminotriazine / formaldehyde / sulphonamide co-condensates and / or from metallized polyester flakes. and / or their mixtures. These fluorescent pigments may also be in the form of aqueous dispersions of fluorescent pigments. As fluorescent pigments particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent colored sulphonamide co-condensate of medium size of the 3-4 micron particles sold under the trade name "Fiesta Astral Pink FEX-1" and the aminotriazine / formaldehyde / blue colored fluorescent sulfonamide co-condensate of the 3-4.5 micron particles sold under the trade name "Fiesta Comet Blue FTX-60" by Swada or the coated benzoguanamine / formaldehyde resin. yellow-colored formaldehyde / urea resin sold under the trade name "FB-205 Yellow" and the benzoguanamine / formaldehyde resin coated with formaldehyde / urea resin and colored red sold under the trade name "FB-400 Orange Red" by the UK company SEUNG CHEMICAL, the orange colored polyamide resin 3022453 27 sold under the name as "Flare 911 Orange 4" by Sterling Industrial Colors. A second composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of fluorescent agents ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition. The composition thus preferably has a coloring material selected from the group consisting of colored organic pigments (or lacquers), certain colored mineral pigments (such as CI77510, CI77007), colored hybrid pigments, colored fluorescent agents, and mixtures thereof, preferably in the group consisting of colored organic pigments, colored fluorescent agents and mixtures thereof, preferably in the group consisting of colored organic pigments. These dyestuffs of the second composition may be formulated with: at least one volatile solvent, in particular an organic solvent, preferably at least one film-forming polymer, preferably at least one plasticizer, optionally at least one dispersing agent, and than any other compound capable of preserving the previously defined optical characteristics of reflective layer for this first composition.
    [0037] Volatile Solvents The second composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile solvent, preferably an organic solvent. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile solvent" is intended to mean a solvent capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent (s) of the invention are liquid solvents at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa. (101 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of 30 Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of 10 mm Hg).
    [0038] The volatile solvent of the composition is preferably selected from the group consisting of C 2 -C 5 alcohols, C 5 -C 12 alkanes, C 3 -C 6 esters and ketones, and mixtures thereof. By "C2-05 alcohol" is meant an organic compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group -OH, preferably exactly one hydroxyl group -OH, and 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and which is otherwise liquid at temperature. ambient temperature, that is, from 15 ° C to 30 ° C. C2-05 alcohols suitable for the invention include in particular ethanol and isopropanol. By "C5-C12 alkane" is meant a saturated hydrocarbon compound, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, exclusively composed of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, which is otherwise liquid at room temperature, c that is, from 15 ° C to 30 ° C. In the context of the present invention, the alkanes preferably comprise from 5 to 12, preferably from 5 to 10, advantageously from 5 to 8 carbon atoms. Suitable C5-C12 alkanes include heptane and its isomers, decane and isomers thereof, cyclohexane and dodecane and isomers thereof. As C 3 -C 6 esters and ketones, there may be mentioned acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, cyclohexanone and alkyl acetates in which the alkyl group comprises from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isobutyl acetate and tert-butyl acetate. According to a particular embodiment, the second composition comprises a total content of volatile solvent (s) of between 20 and 80% by weight, in particular between 30 and 75% by weight, in particular between 40 and 70% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the second composition.
    [0039] Film-forming polymers The second composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" denotes a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, an isolatable film, in particular a continuous and adherent film, on a support, in particular on nails.
    [0040] In the composition, it is possible to use a single film-forming polymer or a mixture of film-forming polymers. This film-forming polymer may be chosen from the group consisting of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures. A film-forming polymer that is suitable for the invention may be chosen in particular from: - cellulosic polymers or polysaccharide derivatives, such as cellulose or guar gum derivatives. A polysaccharide derivative suitable for the invention may be a polysaccharide ester or alkyl ether. The term "polysaccharide ester or alkyl ether" denotes a polysaccharide formed of repeating units comprising at least two identical or different rings and having a degree of substitution per saccharide unit of between 1.9 and 3, preferably of between 2.2 and 2.9, and more particularly between 2.4 and 2.8. By substitution is meant the functionalization of the hydroxyl groups as ester and / or alkyl ether functions, and / or the functionalization of the carboxylic groups as ester functions. In other words, it may be a polysaccharide partially or totally substituted with ester and / or alkyl ether groups. Preferably, the hydroxyl groups may be substituted by ester and / or alkyl ether C2-C4 functions.
    [0041] In particular, mention may be made of cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrates or cellulose acetopropanates; cellulose alkylethers such as ethylcelluloses, and ethylguars; synthetic polymers such as homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene-containing compound, acrylic polymers and copolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyureas, silicone polymers such as silicone resins, silicone polyamides, polymers with a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polyamide polymers and copolymers, polyisoprenes, vinyl polymers, polyvinylbutyrals, alkyd resins and ketone / aldehyde resins, resins derived from aldehyde condensation products such as arylsulfonamide formaldehyde resins such as toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resin, epoxy / tosylamide resins, epoxy aryl-sulfonamide resins or ethyl tosylamide resins; Polymers of natural origin, such as plant resins such as dammars, elemi, copals, benzoin; gums such as shellac, sandalwood gum and putty gum. As film-forming polymer, the toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resins "Ketjentflex MS80" from the company AKZO or "Santolite MHP", "Santolite MS 80" from the company Fontronno or "Resimpol 80" from the company PAN AMERICANA can be used, the resin "BECKOSOL ODE 230-70-E" alkyd from the company DAINIPPON, the acrylic resin "ACRYLOID B66" from the company ROHM & HAAS, the polyurethane resin "TRIXENE PR 4127" from the company BAXENDEN 10, acetophenone resin / formaldehyde marketed under the reference Synthetic Resin SK by Degussa. According to one particular embodiment, the film-forming polymer is chosen from polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives, preferably from ethers and esters of polysaccharides, in particular from C2-C4, and more preferentially is chosen from cellulose acetate butyrates, cellulose acetate propianates, cellulose acetate, ethylcelluloses, ethylguars, nitrocellulose, epoxy / tosylamide resins, acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the second composition comprises a total content of film-forming polymer (s) of between 1 and 50% by weight, in particular between 5 and 40% by weight, in particular between 10 and 25% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition. Plasticizers The second composition according to the invention may comprise at least one plasticizer. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "plasticizer" is intended to denote a compound, in the liquid state more or less viscous, which, added to a formulation of a given material, makes it more tacky, more adherent, more flexible, more resistant and / or easier to handle.
    [0042] As plasticizer, there may be mentioned in particular the usual plasticizers such as glycols and their derivatives, such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether or diethylene glycol hexyl ether, 3022453 31 ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol methyl ether, ethylene glycol butyl ether, ethylene glycol hexyl ether, glycol esters, propylene glycol derivatives and in particular propylene glycol phenyl ether, propylene glycol diacetate, dipropylene glycol butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol methyl ether and diethylene glycol methyl ether, propylene glycol butyl ether, especially carboxylic acid esters, such as citrates, especially triethyl citrate, citrate of tributyl, triethyl acetylcitrate, acetyl tributyl ylcitrate, triethyl-2-hexyl acetyl citrate; phthalates, especially dimethoxyethyl phthalate; phosphates, especially tricresyl phosphate, tributyl phosphate, triphenyl phosphate, tributoxyethyl phosphate; tartrates, especially dibutyl tartrate; adipates; carbonates; sebacates; benzyl benzoate, butyl acetylricinoleate, glyceryl acetylricinoleate, butyl glycolate, camphor, glycerol triacetate, N-ethyl-o, p-toluenesulfonamide, oxyethylenated derivatives such as oxyethylenated oils , in particular vegetable oils, such as castor oil, and more generally non-volatile oils, in particular nonvolatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the content of plasticizer (s) is from 1% to 15%, preferably from 1% to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.
    [0043] Of course, other compounds may be present in the second composition provided that these compounds do not interfere with the translucency and color of the second applied composition. EXAMPLES Several examples of the first composition (base layer) and second composition (base coat coating layer) according to the invention were made and compared to compositions outside the invention, in particular from a point of view: - Couvrance, - Luminance, 30 - Chromaticity, whose measurement protocols were given previously in this description, and evaluated with the naked eye.
    [0044] EXAMPLES AND RESULTS Several examples of preparation of first composition (so-called base-coat or base coat) and second composition (so-called top-coat or coating layer), according to the invention to obtain a depth effect of the base layer after application of one or two coating layers on the base layer, have been realized. Examples of nail varnish Examples of first composition and counterexample Ingredients with content Composition Compositio Composition Composition in% 1 according to n 2 according to 3 according to the invention the invention the invention outside the invention Ethyl acetate Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Nitrocellulose 15 15 15 15 DISTEARDIMONIUM 1 1 1 1 HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE (BENTONE GEL ISD V ELEMENTIS) Tributyl citrate 6 6 6 6 Alumina-titanium oxide - - - 4.3 Bismuth oxychloride 7 5.2 - - Aluminum powder - 10.5 - TiO2 - 2 - - Yellow 6 lake - - - 4 Red 28 Lake - - - 4 10 Preparation method 3022453 A colored nail varnish is made by mixing at 25 ° C. under appropriate agitation a fluid base of film-forming agent (nitrocellulose), the plasticizer (tributyl citrate) in the solvent medium (ethyl acetate), if appropriate for the pigments, these are ground optimally beforehand, unlike the other materials 5 col orants such as nacres directly added to the base in the presence of the thixotropic agent (bentone). Optical result Parameters Composition Composition Composition Composition 1 according to 2 according to 3 according to the invention the invention the invention outside invention Coverage (CR) 89.4 89.9 98.7 82.6 Luminance (L *) 94.95 95.7 90.3 51.6 Chromaticity 2.1 1.7 0.9 62.5 (C * Characterization White lacquered White pearlescent Aluminum Light red deposition opaque opaque opaque covering basecoat 10 The first compositions according to the invention 1, 2, 3 constitute a reflective base, unlike the comparative composition outside the invention which is not bright enough and is too colorful. Examples of Second Composition and Counterexample Ingredients with Content of Composition 1 Composition 2 Comparative composition out of% according to the invention according to the invention Ethyl acetate Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Nitrocellulose 15 15 Citrate of tributyl 6 6 6 3022453 34 D & C Red The method of preparing the second compositions is the same as that described with reference to the first compositions.
    [0045] Optical result Parameters Composition 1 Composition 2 Comparative composition outside the invention according to the invention Coverage (CR) 28.6 32.2 76.8 Luminance (L *) 56.1 53.6 39.2 Chromaticity (C *) 62 69 53.8 Characterization of the deposit Fuchsia Red translucent Red opaque of the translucent base layer (coating layer) The second compositions according to the invention 1, 2 constitute a translucent and colored coating, unlike the comparative composition outside the invention which is opaque.
    [0046] Other examples of second compositions in accordance with the invention have been made having enabled the Applicant to position the optimal optical results terminals: Ingredients with Composition Composition Composition% 3 content according to 4 according to 5 according to the invention the invention 3022453 Ethyl Acetate Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Nitrocellulose 15 15 6 6 6 Tributyl Citrate D & C Red 6 Lake - - 0.18 Ferric 0.002 0.02 - Ammonium Ferrocyanide D & C Yellow 5 0.22 - - Lake Red 34 Lake - 0.11 - Optical Outcome Parameters Composition Composition 4 Composition 4 Composition 5 3 according to according to according to the invention the invention the invention the invention (spreading 2x300nm) Cover (CR) 23 37 67.9 25.4 Luminance (L *) 87.7 47.3 36.3 63.4 Chromaticity (C *) 48.1 51.8 43.2 60.9 Characterization Yellow-green Purple Translucent violet (600nm thick spreading) Orange translucent layer of translucent translucent coating (spreading according to prtocole d The result of the successive application of the base layer on the nail and then the coating layer on the base layer When a layer of first composition according to the invention, or base layer, such as the first composition 1, is applied to a fingernail and then a layer of second composition, or coating layer, such as the second composition 2, is applied to the base layer, the translucent and colored nature of the layer 3022453 36 coating applied on this reflective base layer makes it possible to observe a surprising and unexpected effect of depth of said base layer. Generally only one base layer is applied but one or two layers of coating may be applied to said base layer to vary this depth effect.
    [0047] On the contrary, by applying a first comparative composition outside the invention and then a second composition according to the invention such a depth effect is not obtained. Similarly, by applying a first composition 1 according to the invention and a second comparative composition outside the invention, such a depth effect is not obtained.
    [0048] To now exemplify a modulation of the clarity of the color of the assembly obtained while allowing to obtain an intense color, a base layer according to the invention of first composition 2 according to the invention has been applied and then respectively one and two layers of coating of second composition 1 according to the invention, we can then observe a decrease in luminance while maintaining a high chromaticity. Optical result Parameters First composition 2 First composition according to the invention 2 according to the invention covered with a coating of a second composition 1 second according to the invention composition 1 according to the invention (spreading 3001.1m according to 'protocol defined in the (spreading) 600μm) application) Coverage (CR) 94.9 93.5 Luminance (L *) 56.2 47.6 Chromaticity (C *) 64.9 64.3 Characterization of Fuchsia Intense Fuchsia Intense deposition of the deep layer: the hue is less clear coating but while As nail polishes are not the only fields of application of the present invention, this invention is thus transposable to other technical fields, such as lip products, such as lipsticks. , or eyes, such as liners.
    [0049] EXAMPLES OF LIQUID PRODUCTS EXAMPLES OF FIRST COMPOSITION EXAMPLE OF PREPARATION OF A WHITE BASE FOR THE PREPARATION OF A FIRST COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION: Phases Ingredients White base A ISODODECANE 19.41 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE (SR 1000 of MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIAL) 18.86 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE (BENTONE GEL ISD V of ELEMENTIS) 27.73 B ISODODECANE 19.22 NYLON-611 / DIMETHICONE 12.57 COPOLYMER (DOW CORNING 2-8179 GELLING) C30-45 ALKYLDIMETHYLSILYL POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE (and) PARAFFIN (DOW CORNING SW-8005 C30 RESIN WAX) 0.55 10 Preparation process: Mix the raw materials of phase A at room temperature In an appendix mix the raw materials of phase B and heat to 75 ° C, then cool to room temperature 15 - Mix the raw materials of the phase B with phase A. To accentuate the coverage of this white base several examples of metallic particles Binders, optionally in combination with the pigments, have been added to form a first composition according to the covering invention: Ingredients with contents in% Composition Composition Composition Composition according to according to according to the invention 1 the invention 2 the invention 3 the invention 4 the invention 5 D & C YELLOW 6 lake 0.09 0.1 - - 0.072 RED28 0.08 0.16 0.88 - - D & C RED22 - - - 0.18 0.13 lake TITANIUM 2.4 2.6 - - - DIOXIDE ALUMINA (and) 9,14 11,93 28.32 15.82 15.87 TITANIUM DIOXIDE White base Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 100 Qs 100 100 Qs prepared Preparation process: The mother-of-pearl is first added to the white base previously. Then, the pigments are milled to the three-cylinder, and added to this pearly white base. Optical results: Parameters Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition according to according to according to the invention 1 the invention 2 the invention 3 the invention 4 the invention 5 Coverage 95.1 96.5 96.9 95.4 95.5 (CR) Luminance 88.9 84.8 82.8 89.9 88.6 ( L *) Chromaticity 13 23.8 31.8 16.2 15.5 (C *) Characterization of base layer deposition (base-coat) Pink pastel Pink pastel Pink pastel Pastel opaque pearly peach Pastel pearly peach opaque pearlescent opaque pearlescent opaque pearly opaque 3022453 39 Second composition A second composition according to the invention was prepared as follows: Ingredients with% content Composition according to the invention RED 28 LAKE 2.46 OZOKERITE 6.27 Beeswax 2.64 BIS-DIGLYCERYL 24.47 POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (SOFTISAN 649 of CREMER OLEO) TRIMETHYL PENTAPHENYL Qsp 100 TRISILOXANE (DOW CORNING PH-1555 HRI COSMETIC FLUID) The pigments were previously milled and the ingredients were mixed at 80 ° C. and then the melan age cast as a stick. Optical Results Parameters Composition according to the invention Coverage 49.5 (CR) Luminance 48.4 (L *) Chromaticity 5 (C *) 59.9 Characterization of Fuchsia deposition Intense coating layer 3022453 When a first composition according to the invention has been applied to the lips then, once the first composition is dry, a second composition has been applied to said first composition, a depth effect has been observed.
    [0050] Of course, these examples are not limiting other examples using other raw materials could be used for these examples of varnish and lipstick. Similarly other applications can be imagined such as a mascara application.
    [0051] Examples of Eye Products (Liners, Mascara) A first composition for forming a base layer and a second composition for forming a base layer coating layer may be formulated as follows for illustrative purposes.
    [0052] FIRST COMPOSITION INGREDIENTS WITH% FIRST CONTENT COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION Bismuth oxychloride 13 STYRENE / ACRYLATES / AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE 40 COPOLYMER (and) SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (and) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL (SYNTRAN 5760 CG from INTERPOLYMER) HYDROXYPROPYLCELLULOSE 1 QS WATER CONSERVATIVE QSP100 This first composition can be achieved by a conventional preparation method, however, it should preferably not grind bismuth oxychloride.
    [0053] The second composition INGREDIENTS WITH THE SECOND CONTENT% COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION BLUE 1 LAKE 2.5 ACRYLIC ACIDIC ACRYLIC COPOLYMER / ISOBUTYL ACRYLATE / ACRYLATE ISOBORNYL (MEXOMER 40 NO CHIMEX) QS ISODODECANE QSP100 CONSERVATIVE This second composition can be carried out by a Conventional preparation method, however it will be preferred to grind the organic pigment implemented with a three-roll. It is understood that in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds, are always expressed by weight of dry matter of the compound in question. Throughout the application, the expression "includes one" or "includes one" must be understood to mean "containing at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless the contrary is specified. 10 15
    权利要求:
    Claims (16)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. Makeup set of a keratinous material, in particular nails, lips, eyelids, eyelashes, eyebrows, or the eye contour, comprising, at least: a first composition intended to be applied to the keratin material, the first composition being a composition capable of forming a reflective layer; a second composition intended to be applied to the first composition, said second composition being a translucent and colored composition.
    [0002]
    2. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises at least one metal reflective particle.
    [0003]
    3. The assembly of claim 1 or 2, wherein the (the) reflective particle (s) metal (s) is (are) selected from the group consisting of pure metal particles or composite, optionally oxidized, multilayer interference pigments, optionally coated with optical brightener (s), and their mixture, in particular the multilayer interference agent (s) being chosen from the group consisting of pearlescent agents, goniochromatic pigments, optionally coated with optical brightener (s), and mixtures thereof.
    [0004]
    4. The assembly of claim 2 or 3, wherein the (the) reflective particle (s) metal (s) is (are) present (s) to a total content ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, plus precisely from 3 to 30% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
    [0005]
    An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first composition has a color rendition selected from the group consisting of white, pink, metallic, especially silvery or golden, and pastel.
    [0006]
    An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first composition has a CR coverage greater than or equal to 75%, more preferably 80%, more preferably 85%, more preferably 75% to 100%, chroma C * less than or equal to 40, preferably 30, more preferably 20, more preferably 10, in particular 5 or 2.5, and preferably a luminance L * greater than or equal to 60, preferably 65 to 100 5
    [0007]
    7. The assembly as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the first composition comprises at least one volatile solvent, in particular an organic solvent, preferably the volatile solvent (s) being present at a certain level. total of from 20 to 80% by weight, in particular from 30 to 75% by weight, in particular from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
    [0008]
    8. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer, the film-forming polymer (s) being present at a total content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, better still 5 to 40% by weight, in particular 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition
    [0009]
    An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first composition comprises at least one plasticizer, preferably the plasticizer (s) being present at a total content of from 1% to 15% preferably from 1% to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.
    [0010]
    An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second composition comprises at least one coloring material selected from the group consisting of organic colored pigments, or lacquers, certain colored inorganic pigments, such as C177510, C177007, colored hybrid pigments, colored fluorescent agents, and mixtures thereof, preferably in the group consisting of organic colored pigments, colored fluorescent agents and mixtures thereof, preferably in the group consisting of colored organic pigments.
    [0011]
    11. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second composition comprises at least one dyestuff, the dye (s) being present at a total content of from 0 to 30 ° C. From 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the second composition. 5
    [0012]
    12. An assembly according to any preceding claim, wherein the second composition has a CR coverage ranging from 15 to 70%, in particular from 20 to 50%, and a chroma C * ranging from 30 to 90, preferably from 35 to 75, and preferably a luminance L * greater than or equal to 40, in particular ranging from 45 to 90.
    [0013]
    13. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second composition comprises at least one volatile solvent, in particular an organic solvent, preferably the volatile solvent (s) being present at a certain level. total ranging from 20 to 80% by weight, especially from 30 to 75% by weight, in particular from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of second composition.
    [0014]
    14. The assembly as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the second composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer, the film-forming polymer (s) being present at a total content ranging from 1 to 50. % by weight, more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
    [0015]
    15. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second composition comprises at least one plasticizer, preferably the plasticizer (s) being present at a total content ranging from 1% to 15%. preferably from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.
    [0016]
    16. A process for making up a keratinous material, in particular nails, lips, eyelids, eyelashes, eyebrows, or around the eyes, using a makeup unit according to any one of the preceding claims. , comprising, preferably consisting of: - at least a first step of applying a first composition to said keratin material, said first composition forming a reflective layer, and - at least a second step, following said first step applying a second composition to said first composition, said second composition being a translucent and colored composition.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    EP3157635A1|2017-04-26|
    WO2015193061A1|2015-12-23|
    FR3022453B1|2018-01-05|
    US20180140519A1|2018-05-24|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    EP1462085A1|2003-03-11|2004-09-29|L'oreal|Nail make-up with mirror effect|
    WO2006037901A1|2004-10-05|2006-04-13|L'oreal|Make-up kit and method|
    EP1745770A1|2005-07-13|2007-01-24|L'Oréal|Bilayered cosmetic product, its uses and make up kit containing said product|
    FR2908637A1|2006-11-17|2008-05-23|Oreal|Cosmetic composition, useful for make-up of keratinous matter, comprises multilayer interference pigment, coloring agent, reflective pigment and diffractive pigment|
    FR2932981A1|2008-06-26|2010-01-01|Oreal|Set, useful for treatment, preferably for make-up of keratin material, comprises two different compositions, where first composition comprises medium having coloring agent and second composition is formed by non-polymerized liquid crystal|FR3088206A1|2018-11-13|2020-05-15|L'oreal|KIT FOR MAKING EYEBROWS AND THEIR CONTOUR WITH TWO COMPOSITIONS; TWO-STEP MAKEUP PROCESS|
    FR3088205A1|2018-11-13|2020-05-15|L'oreal|KIT FOR MAKING EYEBROWS AND THEIR CONTOUR WITH TWO COMPOSITIONS; TWO-STEP MAKEUP PROCESS|
    FR3088207A1|2018-11-13|2020-05-15|L'oreal|KIT FOR MAKING EYEBROWS AND THEIR CONTOUR WITH TWO COMPOSITIONS; TWO-STEP MAKEUP PROCESS|
    FR3088208A1|2018-11-13|2020-05-15|L'oreal|KIT FOR MAKING EYEBROWS AND THEIR CONTOUR WITH TWO COMPOSITIONS; TWO-STEP COLORING PROCESS|US2938878A|1953-07-31|1960-05-31|Union Carbide Corp|Vinyl chloride resin compositions containing an alkyl nu, nu-bis carboxamate as a plasticizer|
    US2851424A|1957-06-28|1958-09-09|Switzer Brothers Inc|Fluorescent compositions|
    US3856550A|1970-07-21|1974-12-24|Us Navy|Fluorescent visual augmentation composition|
    US3711604A|1971-07-19|1973-01-16|Colgate Palmolive Co|Fluoride containing transparent dentifrice|
    CA2003346C|1988-11-23|2000-02-15|Luis C. Calvo|Fluorescent cosmetic compositions|
    JPH05117127A|1991-10-02|1993-05-14|Shiseido Co Ltd|Fluorescent cosmetic|
    FR2911065B1|2007-01-04|2009-03-20|Oreal|MAKE-UP KERATIN FIBER KIT.|
    FR2932070B1|2008-06-10|2012-08-17|Oreal|MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE OF LASHES|
    法律状态:
    2015-06-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2015-12-25| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20151225 |
    2016-05-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-05-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2018-05-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2020-05-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2021-05-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1455689A|FR3022453B1|2014-06-20|2014-06-20|ASSEMBLY AND METHOD FOR MAKE-UP A KERATINIC MATERIAL|
    FR1455689|2014-06-20|FR1455689A| FR3022453B1|2014-06-20|2014-06-20|ASSEMBLY AND METHOD FOR MAKE-UP A KERATINIC MATERIAL|
    EP15726074.6A| EP3157635A1|2014-06-20|2015-05-22|Assembly and process for making up a keratin material|
    US15/316,214| US20180140519A1|2014-06-20|2015-05-22|Assembly and process for making up a keratin material|
    PCT/EP2015/061417| WO2015193061A1|2014-06-20|2015-05-22|Assembly and process for making up a keratin material|
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