COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF GEL TYPE

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular skin and / or lips, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled by at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least one blooming filler.
公开号:FR3021533A1
申请号:FR1454855
申请日:2014-05-28
公开日:2015-12-04
发明作者:Olfa Bchir；Gaetan Chevalier；Elodie Valverde
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] The present invention aims to provide for the field of care and / or make-up of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin and / or the lips, and in particular of the skin, a new galenic product which is particularly interesting with regard to its technical performance. and sensory sensations that it provides to the user during its application on them and in particular on the skin. By "keratin materials" is meant in particular the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and preferably the skin. Cosmetic compositions are commonly used to camouflage, and / or unify skin surface imperfections such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or scars. In this regard, many formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or not, have so far been developed. When these compositions are more specifically intended to reduce the visibility of the relief of the skin, the formulator uses diffusing or blurring charges. However, the corresponding compositions, currently available, are not totally satisfactory especially in terms of blurring performance. There is therefore still a need for mattifying and / or smoothing cosmetic compositions for masking skin imperfections, having good cosmetic properties, in particular that are soft, fresh and light on application.
[0002] The present invention aims precisely to meet this need. Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic makeup and / or care composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising: at least one aqueous gelled phase, minus one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least one blooming filler. In the context of the present invention, the expression "blooming effect" designates a fuzzy effect that camouflages the micro-reliefs of the skin. This effect makes it possible in particular to attenuate by optical effect skin defects such as spots, wrinkles or fine lines.
[0003] 3021533 2 These bloomers may also be called "soft focus loads" or "blur charges". Against all expectations, and as can be seen from the examples appearing below, the inventors have found that the formulation of a bloomer load in a gel-gel architecture as defined above makes it possible to boost this bloating effect. In addition, the feeling of discomfort that can be generated by the presence of this type of load is no longer felt on application. Compositions, called gel-gel, are already proposed in the cosmetics field. This type of formulation combines a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel / gel formulations are described in Almeida et al., Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13: 487, Tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-112834 and WO 2008/081175. However, to the knowledge of the inventors, this type of composition does not currently allow the concealment and smoothing of relief imperfections without altering the other 15 expected cosmetic performance. According to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 37% by weight, in particular from 0.75% to 35% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 30% by weight of blooming filler (s), based on the total weight of said composition.
[0004] According to an advantageous variant embodiment, the said blooming fillers are present wholly or partly, and preferably only, in the gelled aqueous phase or are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled oily phase. . As stated above, the inventors have found that the choice of a particular hydrophilic gelling agent for texturing the aqueous phase of a gel / gel composition and the use of blooming fillers in a composition according to the invention. The invention makes it possible to duplicate the effects of these charges, as illustrated in the examples. Thus, a composition according to the invention exhibits very good camouflaging properties of the relief imperfections and smoothing of the skin, while providing a feeling of freshness and lightness to the user. Finally, the composition is easy to apply on the surface of the targeted keratin material.
[0005] According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a process for the preparation of a cosmetic makeup and / or care composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one at least one step of mixing: an aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; under conditions conducive to obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition further comprising at least one blooming filler.
[0006] According to an alternative embodiment, this process may advantageously comprise a step of mixing at least three or more gelled phases. For obvious reasons, the number of gelled aqueous phases and gelled oily phases to be considered for forming a composition according to the invention may vary for each of the two types of phase beyond two.
[0007] Advantageously, the mixing of the phases can be carried out at room temperature. However, the method of the invention may include, if necessary, a step of heating the mixture. According to a particular embodiment, the gelled phases representative of the same type of architecture are gelled by a different gelling agent. Multiphase formulas can thus be developed. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a process for makeup and / or care, in particular cosmetic care, of a keratin material, in particular of the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step comprising applying to said keratinous material a composition according to the invention. According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of a keratinous material, in particular of the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least the application on said material of a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application on said keratinous material, of at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent, and at least one gelled oily phase; by at least one lipophilic gelling agent; and said composition further comprising at least one blooming filler. COSMETIC COMPOSITION First of all, it is important to note that a composition according to the invention is different from an emulsion. An emulsion generally consists of an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets of one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically of the order of one micrometer (0.1 to 100 μm). In addition, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or an emulsifier to ensure its stability over time. In contrast, a composition according to the invention consists of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases. These two phases both have a gel-like texture. This texture is reflected in particular visually by a consistent and / or creamy appearance. The term "macroscopically homogeneous mixture" means a mixture in which each of the gelled phases can not be individualized with the naked eye. More specifically, in a composition according to the invention, the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable and consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing interpenetrating macro domains. These interpenetrating macro-domains are not measurable objects. Thus, under the microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. A composition according to the invention can not be characterized as having a "sense", ie an O / W or E / H direction. Thus, a composition according to the invention has a gel-like consistency. The stability of the composition is durable without surfactant. Therefore, a cosmetic composition according to the invention does not require surfactant or silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.
[0008] It is known from the state of the art to observe the intrinsic nature of a mixture of aqueous and oily gels in a gel-like composition, for example, by introducing a coloring material either in the aqueous gelled phase or in the the lipophilic gelled phase, prior to the formation of the gel-like composition. In visual inspection, in a gel-like composition, the coloring matter appears to be uniformly dispersed, even if the dye is present only in the gelled aqueous phase or in the gelled oily phase. Indeed, if two different dyes of different colors are introduced into the oily phase and the aqueous phase, respectively, before the formation of the gel-like composition, the two colors can be observed as uniformly dispersed throughout the gel-like composition. . This is different from an emulsion in which, if a water-soluble or oil-soluble dye is introduced into the aqueous and oily phases, respectively, before forming the emulsion, only the color of the emulsion will be observed. dye present in the outer phase (Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995), Chapter 21, page 282). It is also known to distinguish a gel-type composition from an emulsion by performing a "drop test". This test consists of demonstrating the bicontinuous nature of a gel-type composition. Indeed, as mentioned above, the consistency of a composition is obtained through the interpenetration of the aqueous and oily gelled domains. Therefore, the bi-continuous nature of a gel-like composition can be evidenced by a simple test with hydrophilic and hydrophobic solvents respectively. This test consists in depositing, on the one hand, a drop of a hydrophilic solvent on a first sample of the tested composition, and, on the other hand, a drop of a hydrophobic solvent on a second sample of the same composition tested. , and analyze the behavior of the two drops of solvents. In the case of an O / W emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent diffuses into the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent remains on the surface of the sample. In the case of an W / O emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent remains on the surface of the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent diffuses throughout the sample. Finally, in the case of a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system), the hydrophilic and hydrophobic drops diffuse throughout the sample. In the case of the present invention, the test which will be preferred for distinguishing a gel composition from an emulsion is a dilution test. Indeed, in a gel-like composition, the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behavior in water and in oil is different from the behavior of an emulsion. Therefore, the behavior when diluting a gel-like composition (bicontinuous system) can be compared to that of an emulsion. More specifically, the dilution test consists in putting 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a 30 ml plastic beaker. The dilution is carried out with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification phenomenon. In particular, this is done using a planetary mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ. The mixer speed is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, observation of the resulting sample is performed using an optical microscope at a magnification of x 100 (x10x10). It may be noted that oils such as Parleam® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS® marketed by Dow Corning are suitable as a diluting solvent. In the case of a gel-like composition (bicontinuous system), when it is diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed. When a gel-like composition (bicontinuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel are observed in suspension and when a gel-like composition (dual-batch system) is diluted in oil suspended pieces of aqueous gel are observed. On the contrary, during the dilution, the emulsions exhibit a different behavior. An O / W emulsion, when diluted in an aqueous solvent, gradually reduces without having a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. This same O / W emulsion, when diluted with the oil, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of O / W emulsion suspended in the oil). W / O emulsion, when diluted with an aqueous solvent, has a heterogeneous appearance (W / O emulsion pieces suspended in water). This same W / O emulsion, when diluted in the oil, gradually reduces without presenting a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance.
[0009] According to the present invention, the aqueous gelled phase and the oily gelled phase forming a composition according to the invention are present in a weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferably, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in a weight ratio ranging from 30/70 to 80/20. The ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties. Thus, in the case of a make-up composition, in particular the face, it may be advantageous to promote an aqueous gelled phase / gelled phase glycerol weight ratio greater than 1, in particular ranging from 60/40 to 90/10, preferably ranging from 60/40 to 80/20, preferably from 60/40 to 70/30, and even more preferably to promote an aqueous gelled phase / oil gelled phase weight ratio of 60/40 or 70/30.
[0010] These preferred ratios are particularly advantageous for obtaining fresh and light compositions. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is therefore in the form of a creamy gel having a minimum stress below which it does not flow unless subjected to an external mechanical stress.
[0011] As is apparent from the following, a composition according to the invention can have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa. It can also advantageously have a modulus of rigidity G * of at least 400 Pa. , and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. According to an advantageous variant embodiment, the gelled phases considered for forming a composition according to the invention may respectively have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa, and preferably greater than 10 Pa. The characterization of the threshold stresses is performed by oscillation rheology measurements. A methodology is proposed in the exemplification chapter of this text.
[0012] In general, the corresponding measurements are carried out at 25 ° C. using an imposed stress rheometer, RS600 HAAKE, equipped with a plane-plane measuring body (diameter 60 mm) provided with a anti-evaporation device (bell). For each measurement, the sample is gently placed and the measurements begin 5 minutes after the sample is placed in the gap (2 mm). The tested composition is then subjected to a ramp stress of 10 'to 103 Pa at a frequency set at 1 Hz. A composition according to the invention may also have a certain elasticity. This elasticity is characterized by a modulus of rigidity G * which below this minimum stress threshold may be at least 400 Pa, and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. The G * value of a composition can be obtained by subjecting the composition 30 considered at a stress ramp of 10 'to 103 Pa at a frequency set at 1 Hz.
[0013] HYDROPHILIC GELIFIER For the purpose of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention. The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition. The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible. As specified above, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.
[0014] Within the meaning of the invention, the term synthetic means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor derived from a polymer of natural origin. The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent according to the invention may be particulate or non-particulate. For the purposes of the invention, the term "particulate" means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical. As is apparent from the following, the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of the polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized; carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or otherwise, and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined below. A. Particulate Synthetic Polymeric Gelling Agents They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.
[0015] It may in particular be crosslinked homopolymers or acrylic copolymers, preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, which are in particulate form. According to one embodiment, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates. Preferably, it has, in the dry or non-hydrated state, an average size of less than or equal to 100 μm, preferably less than or equal to 50 μm. The average particle size corresponds to the mass average diameter (D50) measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. Thus, preferably, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is selected from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles having an average size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles. By way of example of crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, mention may be made of those sold under the names Octacare X100, X110 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those marketed under the names the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1110 by the company BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing. Cross-linked polyacrylate microspheres, for example those sold under the name AQUAKEEP® 10 SH NF proposed by the company Sumitomo Seika, may also be mentioned. Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of 0.1% to 5% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.3% to 2% by weight, and in particular at a rate of from about 0.5% to 1.7% by weight based on the total weight of the aqueous phase. B. Non-particulate Polymeric Synthetic Gelling Agents This family of gelling agents can be detailed in the following sub-families: 1. Associative polymers, 2. Polyacrylamides and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, cross-linked and / or neutralized, and 3. Modified carboxyvinyl polymers or not. B.1 Associative polymers By "associative polymer" in the sense of the present invention is meant any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers according to the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric. Associative Anionic Polymers Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made of those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly from those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer. , more particularly with a vinyl carboxylic acid and more particularly with an acrylic acid, a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the following monomer of formula (I): CH 2 = C (R) Wherein R 'denotes H or CH 3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl radicals, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared according to an emulsion polymerization process in patent EP 0 216 479.
[0016] Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of C30-C38 maleic anhydride / cc-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the maleic anhydride / C3-C38 olefin copolymer / isopropyl maleate copolymer product. sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company Newphase Technologies. Among the anionic associative polymers, there may be mentioned, according to a preferred embodiment, copolymers comprising among their monomers an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester of C 1 -C 4 alcohol.
[0017] By way of example of this type of compound, mention may be made of Aculyn 22® sold by Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated terpolymer (comprising 20 OE units) or Aculyn 28® 3021533 11 (terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate oxyethylene (250E) As associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of the unsaturated carboxylic acid (Cio-C30) alkyl ester type, for example, the anionic polymers described and prepared according to US 3,915,921 and US 4 As associative anionic polymers, there may also be mentioned anionic terpolymers.
[0018] The anionic terpolymer used according to the invention is a linear or branched and / or crosslinked terpolymer, of at least one monomer (1) bearing an acid function in free form, partially or totally salified with a nonionic monomer (2) chosen from NN, dimethylacrylamide and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and at least one polyoxyethylenated alkyl (3) acrylate monomer of formula (I) below: R 1 R 15 (I) in which R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear or branched C2-C8 alkyl radical and n represents a number ranging from 1 to 10. "Connected polymer" denotes a nonlinear polymer which has pendant chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is in solution in water, a high state of entanglement leading to very high viscosities, low velocity gradient. The term "crosslinked polymer" denotes a non-linear polymer in the form of a three-dimensional network which is insoluble in water but swellable with water and leads to the production of a chemical gel.
[0019] The acid function of the monomer (1) is in particular the sulphonic acid, phosphonic acid function, said functions being in free form, partially or totally salified. The monomer (1) may be selected from styrene sulfonic acid, ethylsulfonic acid or 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (also called Acryloyldimethyltaurate) under free form, partially or totally salified It is present in the anionic terpolymer preferably in molar proportions of between 5% and 95 mol% and more particularly between 10% and 90 mol% .The monomer (1) will be more particularly 2-methyl-24 (1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid in free form, partially or totally salified, the acid function in partially or totally salified form will preferably be an alkali metal salt such as a sodium or potassium salt, an ammonium salt, an aminoalcohol salt such as a monoethanolamine salt or an amino acid salt such as a salt of lysine.
[0020] The monomer (2) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 4.9% and 90% molar and more particularly between 9.5% and 85% molar and even more particularly between 19.5% and 75% molar. In the formula (I), as an example of linear C8-C16 alkyl radical, mention may be made of octyl, decyl, undecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl and hexadecyl.
[0021] In the formula (I), as an example of a C8-C16 branched alkyl radical, mention may be made of 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 4-methylpentyl and 5-methylhexyl. 6-methylheptyl, 15-methylpentadecyl, 16-methylheptadecyl, 2-hexyloctyl. According to one particular form of the invention, in formula (I), R denotes a C12-C16 alkyl radical. According to one particular form of the invention, in formula (I), n ranges from 3 to 5. Tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate will be used more particularly as monomer of formula (I).
[0022] The monomer (3) of formula (I) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 0.1% and 10% by mole and more preferably between 0.5% and 5% by mole. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic terpolymer is crosslinked and / or connected by a diethylenic or polyethylenic compound in the proportion expressed relative to the total amount of monomers used, from 0.005% to 1 mol% and from preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% molar and more particularly from 0.01% to 0.25% molar.
[0023] The crosslinking agent and / or the branching agent is preferably chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diallyloxoacetic acid or a salt thereof, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, tetraallyloxyethane or ethylene glycol diacrylate. , diallyl urea, triallyl amine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide) or mixtures thereof. The anionic terpolymer may contain additives such as complexing agents, transfer agents, chain-limiting agents. More particularly, an anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of ammonium salt, N, N-dimethylacrylamide will be used. and of lauryl acrylate tetraethoxylated and crosslinked with trimethylol propanetriacrylate, INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as the product sold under the trade name Sepimax Zen® by the company Seppic.
[0024] Cationic Associative Polymers As cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of polyacrylates containing amine side groups. The polyacrylates with amino side groups, quaternized or otherwise, have, for example, hydrophobic groups of the steareth type (polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20)). Examples of aminated side chain polyacrylates include polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from National Starch. Nonionic Associative Polymers The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from: copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers; copolymers of methacrylates or of C 1 -C 6 alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain; Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; 3021533 14 - associative polyurethanes. The associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences of a most often polyoxyethylenated nature (the polyurethanes may then be called polyurethane polyethers) and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains. In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from C6 to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block. The associative polyurethanes can be sequenced in the form of triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic sequences can therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These polymers may also be graft or star. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name. According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of the polyurethane type is used as a gelling agent. As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers for use in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® FX 1100 (Steareth-100 / PEG 136 / HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rheolate® 205 with urea function sold by the company Elementis or the Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol® RM 184 or Acrysol® RM 2020. Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos® T210 with a C12 alkyl chain. C14 and C16-18 alkyl chain Elfacos® T212 (PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate) from Akzo.
[0025] The DW 1206B® product from Rohm & Haas with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, proposed at 20% solids content in water, can also be used. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of Rheolate® 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by Elementis. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J proposed by Rohm & Haas. The associative polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993). More particularly still, according to the invention, it is also possible to use an associative polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn® 46 and Aculyn® 44. Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%), and Aculyn® 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%). It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from Elementis, Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Elementis. . Aculyn® 44, Aculyn® 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J products, as well as Acrysol® RM 184 from Rohm & Haas, or Borchi Gel LW 44 30 from Borchers, can also be used. and their mixtures.
[0026] Amphoteric Associative Polymers Among the amphoteric associative polymers of the invention, mention may be made of amphoteric, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or non-branched polymers, obtainable by the copolymerization of: 1) at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb): ## STR5 ## wherein R4 and R5, which are identical or different, are of the formula (IVa) or (IVb): ## STR2 ## different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R6, R7 and R8, identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom; n is an integer of 2 to 5; A- is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide; 2) at least one monomer of formula (V): wherein R 9 and R 10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; Z1 is OH or NHC (CH3) 2CH2SO3H; 3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI): wherein R9 and R10, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; X denotes an atom; oxygen or nitrogen and R 1 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms; 4) optionally at least one crosslinking agent or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least one fatty chain (IVa) (IVb) having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formula ( IVa), (IVb), (V) and (VI) may be quaternized for example by a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate. The monomers of formula (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, diethyl amino ethyl methacrylate, diethyl amino ethyl acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized, for example, with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate. More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0027] The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, acid 2, and the like. -acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.
[0028] The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of C12-C22 and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from N, N'-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose. The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.
[0029] The weight average molecular weights of associative amphoteric polymers have a weight average molecular weight of greater than 500, preferably of between 10,000 and 10,000,000, and even more preferably of between 100,000 and 800,000.
[0030] Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1% to 99% of moles, more preferably from 20% to 95% of moles and even more preferably from 25% to 75% of moles of compound (s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1% to 80% by moles, more preferably from 5% to 80% by moles and even more preferably from 25% to 75% by moles of compound (s) of formula (V). The content of compound (s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1% and 70% by moles, more preferably between 1% to 50% by moles and even more preferably between 1% and 10% by moles. The crosslinking or branching agent when present is preferably between 0.0001% and 1% moles and more preferably between 0.0001% and 0.1% moles.
[0031] Preferably, the molar ratio between the compound (s) of formulas (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound (s) of formula (V) varies from 20:80 to 95: 5, and more preferably from 25:75 to 75. 25. The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention are for example described in the patent application WO 98/44012.
[0032] The amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate copolymers. According to a preferred embodiment, the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polymers and more particularly from associative polyurethanes, such as Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis. Such an associative polymer is advantageously used in a proportion of 0.1% to 8% by weight of dry matter and preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
[0033] B.2 Polyacrylamides and cross-linked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers The polymers used as aqueous gelling agents for the invention may be homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or otherwise crosslinkers comprising at least acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid monomer (AMPS '), in form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base other than ammonia such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. They are preferably neutralized completely or substantially completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.
[0034] These AMPS® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinically-polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking the polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
[0035] Examples of crosslinking agents which may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di (meth) acrylate and the like. ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth) acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the series of sugars, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and / or or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0036] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01% to 10% by moles and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% by moles relative to the polymer. The AMPS® polymers suitable for the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. They are in this case: either "homopolymers" containing only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above; Or copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these latter do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" means any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms. The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" means polymers which, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25 ° C., at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution. have a maximum transmittance value of light, at a wavelength of 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, at least 60%, preferably at least 70%.
[0037] The "homopolymers" according to the invention are preferably cross-linked and neutralized, and they can be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps: (a) the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of t-butanol or water and tert-butanol; (B) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more inorganic or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH 3, in an amount which makes it possible to obtain a neutralization level of the sulphonic acid functional groups of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%; (c) adding to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b), the crosslinking monomer (s); (d) conventional radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature of from 10 ° C to 150 ° C; the precipitating polymer in the tert-butanol solution or dispersion. The water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS® according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof. The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.
[0038] Among the water-soluble ionic comonomers, for example, the following compounds and their salts may be mentioned: (meth) acrylic acid, styrene sulphonic acid, vinylsulfonic acid and (meth) acrylic acid. allylsulfonic acid, - vinyl phophonic acid, - maleic acid, - itaconic acid, - crotonic acid, - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below: H, C = CR CO) (1) wherein: R1 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7; -X1 is selected from: -O2-type alkyl oxides wherein R2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical; , having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulphonic group (-SO3-) and / or sulphate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-). Among the non-soluble water-soluble comonomers ionic compounds that may be mentioned for example: (meth) acrylamide, N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide, N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, vinylamine, N-vinyllactams having a cyclic alkyl group having 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam, vinyl alcohol of formula CH 2 = CHOH, - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below: H 2 C = CR 3 CO (B)) 2 in which: R 3 is chosen from H, -CH 3, -C 2 H 5 or -C 3 H 7; X 2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR 4 where R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); ether. Examples include glycidyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth) acrylates. Non-fatty chain hydrophobic comonomers include, for example: styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene; vinyl acetate of formula CH2 = CH-OCOCH3; vinyl ethers of formula CH2 = CHOR in which R is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons; Acrylonitrile; caprolactone; vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride; - Silicone derivatives, leading after polymerization to silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and silicone methacrylamides; The hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below: H 2 C = CR 4 (C)) (3 in which: R 4 is chosen from H, -CH 3, -C 2 H 5 or -C 3 H 7; X 3 is chosen from: alkyl oxides of the type -OR5 in which R5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, meth) n-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate, and 2-hexyl ethyl acrylate.
[0039] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS polymers of the invention preferably have a molecular weight of from 50,000 g / mole to 10,000,000 g / mole, preferably from 80,000 g / mole to 8,000,000 g. mole, and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mole to 7,000,000 g / mole. As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of cross-linked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide) than those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ® by the company 10 Clariant. As hydrosoluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: 15 Polyacrylamide / C13-C14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by the company Seppic; copolymers of AMPS® and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potash; copolymers of AMPS® and of sodium acrylate, for example the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by the company Seppic or under the trade name Sepinov 25 EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer); copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as, for example, the AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or as the product marketed under the name Copolymer Acrylamido2-Methylpropane Sodium sulfonate / Hydroxyethylacrylate as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer). Preferred hydrosoluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS according to the invention include copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate. In general, an aqueous phase according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 8%, more preferably from 0.5% to 6%, and even from 0% to 10%. 5% to 5% by weight of dry matter of polyacrylamide (s) and / or polymer (s) and copolymer (s) of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized (s) in relation to its total weight. B.3 Modified or Unmodified Carboxyvinyl Polymers The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or their esters, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) having a hydrophobic group. By "copolymers" is meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.
[0040] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. Hydrophobic group or unit means a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0041] Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of: at least one monomer of formula (1) below: ## STR2 ## in which, R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 that is, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid monomers, and at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester monomer corresponding to the following formula (2): wherein R2 is H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e., acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units); ) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3 denoting a C1-C30 alkyl radical, and preferably a C12-C22 alkyl radical. The alkyl (Cm-Cm) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate. and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, these polymers are crosslinked. Among this type of copolymers, polymers derived from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: - essentially acrylic acid; - an ester of formula (2) described above and in which R2 designates H or CH 3, R 3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide. Among this type of copolymer, use will more particularly be made of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of Cm-Cm alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate, Cm-Cm (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above. Among said polymers above, the acrylate / Cio-C30-alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer), such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the formulas, are particularly preferred according to the present invention. trade names Pemulen TR-1, Pemulen TR-2, 3021533 26 Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020, Carbopol Ultrez Polymer and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2. Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia 5 SP® containing 90% of dry matter and 10% of water, or Cosmedia SPL® in inverse emulsion containing about 60 % of dry matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by Cognis. Partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM by the company BASF, may also be mentioned. The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid homopolymers. By "(meth) acrylic" within the meaning of the present application, the term "acrylic or methacrylic".
[0042] By way of example, mention may be made of those sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol, 910, 934, 940, 941, 934, 980, 981, 2984, 5984, Carbopol Ultrez Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L, or Synthalen® M. Among the carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or otherwise, there may be mentioned Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate). crosspolymer) marketed by Lubrizol. The carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, may be present in a proportion of 0.1% to 10% by weight of dry matter relative to the weight of the aqueous phase, in particular of 0.3% to 8% by weight, preferably between 0.4 and 6% based on the weight of the aqueous phase. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid copolymers, crosslinked and / or neutralized.
[0043] According to another preferred variant, the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.
[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" is intended to mean a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.
[0045] The gelling agent is therefore lipophilic present in the oily phase of the composition. The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible. As is apparent from the following, the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers and mixtures thereof. I. Particulate Gelling Agents The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical. As a representative of the lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for the invention, polar, polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas such as pyrogenic silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels may be particularly mentioned.
[0046] Waxes The term "wax" as used in the context of the present invention generally means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a point of melting greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C.
[0047] Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.
[0048] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 302 ° C. to 10 ° C. / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes which are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They may in particular be polar or apolar, silicone and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon compounds, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. a) Apolar waxes For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar wax" is intended to mean a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. as defined below, 0, is equal to 0 (J / cm 3). / 4. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional" sohtbility parameters "J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: δp characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; δp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Off, characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; Δa is determined by the equation: δa = ((Sp2 8h2) 1/4 The parameters δp, δn, δd and δa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4.
[0049] The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P. The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, Paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof. As ozokerite mention may be made of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P. As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445 marketed by Sonneborn, Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540 ° marketed by Paramelt, and Cerewax® N ° 3 marketed by the company 10 Baerlocher. As microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, there may be mentioned in particular polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220 220L® and 2505® by the company Micro Powders.
[0050] As polyethylene wax, there may be mentioned Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene marketed by New Phase Technologies, Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell. b) Polar wax For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" is intended to mean a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. is different from 0 (J / cm 3) 1/4. In particular, "polar wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as a carbon atom. oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus. The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone. Preferably, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based. By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or of fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
[0051] By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
[0052] In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax: ester waxes such as those chosen from: i) waxes of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C. ii) di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of the general formula R3 - (- OCOR4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C3i alkyl group (group alkyl comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R 4 represents a linear C 4 -C 3 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) linear branched which may or may not contain one or more unsaturation (s), and preferably linear and unsaturated. (iv) Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fatty chains, for example hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, etc. , hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, wax hydrogenated Jojoba, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax.
[0053] In another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. As a 3021533 alcohol wax, mention may be made, for example, of the wax C30-50 Alcohols Performacol 550 Alcohol marketed by New Phase Technologie, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point.
[0054] By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially including Si-O groups. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric ).
[0055] The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, as well as (C 20 -C 60) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C 30 -C 45) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer. Silicones or C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax sold by Dow Corning. In the context of the present invention, mention may be made, as particularly advantageous waxes, of polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, candelilla wax and silicone waxes, in particular candelilla wax. They can be present in the oily phase in a proportion of 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase, for example between 5% and 20% of the oily phase, and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase. The modified clays The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay. The clays can be natural or synthetic and are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10-C22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
[0056] They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
[0057] Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites. Preferably, the lipophilic clays used are hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under US Pat. denomination of Bentone 38V® by Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by Elementis. In particular, lipophilic clay may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10%, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the weight. total of the oily phase. Silicas The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, fumed silica or silica airgel particles. A) Pyrogenic silica Particularly suitable for the invention, the hydrophobic treated silica treated surface. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot. dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R972, and Aerosil R974 by Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by Cabot. The fumed silicas may be present in a composition according to the present invention at a content of between 0.1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase. b) Hydrophobic silica aerogels The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention exhibit specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and a size expressed as mean diameter by volume (D 0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, more preferably from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm. and even better better from 5 to 15 iam. According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 to 25 μm. iam, better from 5 to 20 iam and even better from 5 to 15 iam. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET method (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
[0058] The silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. According to an advantageous embodiment, silica airgel particles The hydrophobic materials used in the present invention have a surface area per unit mass (SM) of from 600 to 800 m 2 / g. The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably from 0.03 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm 3. cm3, in particular ranging from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3. In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated test tube; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g). According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per volume unit SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better still 15 to 25 m2 / cm3. The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM x p; where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass, expressed in m 2 / g, as defined above. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still 8 to 12 ml / g.
[0059] The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method of determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4-5 drops of oil to the powder, the mixture is mixed with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate). "Hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups. With respect to the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725. Hydrophobic silica airgel particles that are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably INCI Silica silylate, will preferably be used. Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, of which the particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass of from 600 to 800 m 2 / g. There may also be mentioned the aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA Aerogel 5 MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200. The airgel marketed under the name VM2270 will preferably be used. (INCI name Silica silylate), by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0060] Preferably, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels are present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight. by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
[0061] II. Organopolysiloxane Elastomer The organopolysiloxane elastomer, which can be used as a lipophilic gelling agent, has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It provides a very soft and matifying after application, especially advantageous for application on the skin. It may also allow an effective filling of the depressions present on the keratin materials. By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a soft sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching. It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer. Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam. Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to a silicon. silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
[0062] The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to separate silicon atoms in each molecule. The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure. The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, especially to be well miscible with the compound (B). The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
[0063] The compound (A) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers.
[0064] The compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
[0065] The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C. In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The organopolysiloxane (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, the methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, 25 dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane trimethylsiloxy end groups, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) -polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.
[0066] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5. It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5: 1 to 20: 1. The compound (C) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acidketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum supported .
[0067] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as a clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and (B). The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer. The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers which do not contain a hydrophilic chain, and in particular do not contain polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) units or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and a polyglyceryl unit.
[0068] In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name). ). The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be transported in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.
[0069] Non-emulsifying elastomers are in particular described in the patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and in the application JP-A-61-194009. The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil ( dimethicone) or cyclic (eg cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil. As non-emulsifying elastomers, those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-41", "KSG-42" can more particularly be used. KSG-43, KSG-44, by Shin Etsu, DC9040, DC9041, Dow Corning, SFE 839 by General Electric. According to one particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclomethicone, is used. preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C. ranging from 1 to 500 cst at 25 ° C., optionally modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, thiols and / or amines.
[0070] The following INCI compounds include: - Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "USG-105" and "USG107A" from Shin Etsu; "DC9506" and "DC9701" from Dow Corning, - Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu; Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as "KSG-15"; Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9040", "DC9045" and "DC5930" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning; - Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning El-9240® Silicone Elastomer Blend" from Dow Corning (a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked with hexadiene / polydimethyl siloxane (2 cSt)); C4-24 Alkyl Dimethicone / Divinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA by Alzo. As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil advantageously used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following references: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and " KSG-16 "from Shin Etsu; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning; and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (Hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt)). According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cross-linked silicone elastomer of the INCI name "dimethicone crosspolymer" or "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone of viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cst. , in particular from 1 to 10 cst at 25 ° C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (5cst) sold under the name DC 9041 by Dow Corning or the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (2cst). ) marketed under the name EL-9240® by Dow Corning. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer of INCI name "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone of viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cst, in particular from 1 at 10 ° C. at 25 ° C., such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (5cst) marketed under the name DC 9041 by Dow Corning.
[0071] The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can also be used in the form of a powder, in particular mention may be made of the powders sold under the names "Dow Corning 9505 Powder" and "Dow Corning 9506 Powder" by the company Dow Corning, these powders INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone 5 crosspolymer. The organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin Etsu, and are known as INCI: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer. As examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin that can advantageously be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned especially the reference "KSP-100" from Shin Etsu. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cross-linked silicone elastomer of INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, as oily gelling agent and / or blooming filler. As the preferred lipophilic gelling agent of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, there may be mentioned cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).
[0072] The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention at a content of between 0.2% and 10% by weight of active (dry) material, in particular between 0.2% and 5%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
[0073] 30 3031533 43 III. Semicrystalline Polymers The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semicrystalline polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C.
[0074] For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). ). The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone.
[0075] When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymeric backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melt temperature of the semicrystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C. The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention used are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company, with a temperature increase of 5%. or 10 ° C per minute (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram). The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or the lips. According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature greater than their melting point. Apart from the crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous. For the purposes of the invention, the term "chain or crystallizable block" means a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state. reversibly depending on whether it is above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Preferably, the polymeric backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting point. Preferably, the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semicrystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. Crystallizable side-chain semi-crystalline polymers are homo- or co-polymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable blocks are copolymers, sequential or multiblock. They can be obtained by reactive (or ethylenic) double bond monomer polymerization or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form.
[0076] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing hydrophobic side chain (s) crystallizable (s) ( s), - polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone, - polycondensates of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type, - copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, and - copolymers acrylate / silicone.
[0077] The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from: - block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897, 5 - polycondensates, and in particular of polyester, aliphatic type or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, - copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, - homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers carrying in the skeleton at least a crystallizable block, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,156,911, such as the (Cio-C30) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer® from Landec, described in the brochure "Intelimer® Polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97 ) and for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of about 145,000 and whose melting temperature is equal to 49 ° C., homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01/19333. acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as polydimethylsiloxane grafted acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, grafted acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers sold by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (name CTFA: acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the amount of semicrystalline polymer (s), preferably selected from semicrystalline crystallizable side chain polymers, is from 0.1% to 30% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the oily phase, for example from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20%, or from 5% to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase.
[0078] 3021533 46 IV. Dextrin Esters The composition according to the invention may comprise, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one dextrin ester. In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid, preferably of C12 to C24, in particular of C14 to C18, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the dextrin ester is a C12-C18, in particular C14-C18, fatty acid dextrin ester. Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by Chiba Flour Milling. According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This may for example be chosen from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling. In a particularly preferred manner, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight of ester (s) of dextrin, preferably from 2% to 25% and preferably from 7.5% to 17% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase. In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.1% and 10% by weight of dextrin palmitate, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase. The dextrin palmitate may in particular be that sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling. V. Hydrogen-Bonded Polymers Representative of the hydrogen-bonded polymers suitable for the invention may be very particularly polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides.
[0079] Polyamides The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides, silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof.
[0080] Preferably, the total content of polyamide (s) is between 0.1% and 30% by weight, expressed as dry matter, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% by weight. and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyamide" means a compound having at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and more preferably 10 amide repeating units. a) Hydrocarbon Polyamide The term "hydrocarbon-based polyamide" is intended to mean a polyamide formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom or fluorine atom. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. For the purposes of the invention, the term "functionalized chain" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reactive groups chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ether, esters, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups.
[0081] Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 g / mol, especially ranging from 1,000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1,000. at 50 000 g / mol, and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g / mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g / mol, and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g / mol.
[0082] This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25 ° C. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I): ## STR1 ## in which X represents a group -N ( R1) 2, or a group -ORi in which R1 is a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a C28-diacid dimer residue; C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5; and their mixtures. According to one particular embodiment, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (Ia): ## STR2 ## in which X represents a group -N (R 1) 2, in which R 1 is a linear alkyl radical or branched C8-C22, which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is from 2 to 5; and their mixtures. The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may furthermore additionally comprise, in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (Ib): ## STR2 ## In which X represents a group -OR 'in which R1 is a linear or branched C8 to C22, preferably C16 to C22, alkyl radical which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a residue of C 28 -C 42 diacid dimer, R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5, such as commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer". b) Silicone Polyamide The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV): ## STR2 ## in which: R 4, R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, C 1 -C 40 hydrocarbon-based groups, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen atoms, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms, C 6 -C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, the X, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 to C 10 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain a or more than one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, - Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C50 group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or carry as Substituting one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups, C 1 -C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 -C 6 alkylamino, or Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: wherein T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted C 3 -C 24, trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents a linear or branched C1-C50 alkyl group; , or a cha a polyorganosiloxane, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups which may or may not be bonded to another polymer chain, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200. According to a particular embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) wherein m is from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably from 100 to 100. More preferably, R4, R5, R6 and R7 independently represent a linear or branched C1 to C40 alkyl group. preferably CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl in formula (III). By way of example of a silicone polymer which may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US Pat. No. 5,981,680. Mention may be made of the compounds marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15) whose INCI name is "Nylon611 / dimethicone copolymers", that is to say Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers. The silicone polymers and / or copolymers advantageously have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of from 45 ° C to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of from 70 to 130 ° C and more preferably from 80 ° C to 105 ° C.
[0083] Preferably, the total content of polyamide (s) and / or silicone polyamide (s) is between 0.5% and 25% by weight of dry matter, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight. weight, preferably between 2% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
[0084] Advantageously, the hydrogen-bonded polymer is selected from ethylene diamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer and nylon 611 / dimethicone copolymers. According to an advantageous variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers and mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.
[0085] GELIFYING (S) HYDROPHILY (S) / GELIFYING (S) LIPOPHILY SYSTEM (S) Preferred synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents include, in particular, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid copolymers and in particular copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as, for example, the AMPS '/ hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer as used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydoxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate Copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60 or as the product sold under the name Copolymer Acrylamido-2-Methyl Propane Sodium Sulfonate / Hydroxyethylacrylate as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydoxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer). As preferred lipophilic gelling agents of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made more particularly of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 ( INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name) and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).
[0086] According to one preferred embodiment, lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned more particularly include silicone elastomer gels dispersed in a silicone oil and / or organopolysiloxane elastomer powders coated with silsesquioxane resin. Thus, according to one particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel 5 dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and the cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C. ranging from 1 to 500 cc at 25 ° C., especially the following references: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone , such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning; and 15 - Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer of the INCI name "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone of viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cst at 25 ° C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane by Hexadiene / Polydimethyl Siloxane (5cst) sold under the name DC 9041 Dow Corning and the mixture of Polydimethylsiloxane by Hexadiene / Polydimethyl Siloxane (2cst) sold under the name "Dow Corning EL9240® silicone elastomer blend "from Dow Corning.
[0087] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, such as the reference "KSP-100" sold by Shin Etsu. By way of nonlimiting illustration, hydrophilic gelling / gelling (s) systems which are particularly suitable for the invention may in particular be mentioned as the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid / 2-acrylamide copolymer system. elastomer (s) of organopolysiloxane.
[0088] Thus, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise, as hydrophilic gelling / lipophilic gelling systems, a copolymer system (s) of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate / elastomer (s) of organopolysiloxane.
[0089] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise, as lipophilic hydrophilic gelling / gelling system (s), a copolymer system (s) of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate / organopolysiloxane elastomer powder.
[0090] FLUENT EFFECT CHARGES As stated above, the claimed compositions comprise at least one bloomer filler and in particular as detailed below. This type of load is particularly advantageous insofar as it allows to blur imperfections. As indicated above, the performance of these fillers is advantageously increased thanks to their use in a composition according to the invention. The blur effect is characterized by Haze and transparency measurements (TH transmission). The "Haze" corresponds to the percentage of scattered light relative to the total transmittance according to ASTM Standard 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics). Composition films were applied to 50 μm polyethylene (PE) films. The film was then measured after one hour of drying at room temperature. Finally, the film is placed in the camera and transparency and Haze measurements are made.
[0091] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent, said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; at least one bloomer charge, and is characterized in that the Haze and the TH transmission are respectively greater than or equal to 75 according to ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).
[0092] Of course, as indicated hereinafter, the compositions according to the invention may in parallel also contain conventional additional charges, it being understood that those skilled in the art will take care not to choose fillers whose nature or quantity in the composition would impact the blooming effect of bloomer fillers.
[0093] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "charges" is intended to mean colorless or white, solid particles of any shape, of a mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. The fuzziness fillers that may be used in the composition 10 according to the invention are characterized in particular by a refractive index of between 1.33 and 2. They will generally comprise or consist of particles having a lower average size. or equal to 25 μm, in particular less than or equal to 20 μm, in particular less than or equal to 15 μm
[0094] "Numerical average size" refers to the size given by the statistical half-size distribution of the population, known as the D50 measured at Malvern-Mastersizer. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical.
[0095] In particular, the fuzziness filler is chosen from polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, carnauba microwaxes, synthetic wax microwaxes, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, and powders. of acrylic copolymers, expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres, polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, powders cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, silica and silica powders, in particular alumina powders, hydrophobic airgel particles, lower average size talc. or equal to 3 microns, the silica / TiO 2 composites, the sulfate particles barium, boron nitride particles, surface-treated silica particles with a 1 to 2% mineral wax, amorphous silica microspheres, silica micro-beads, talc / TiO2 / alumina / silica composite powders silicone elastomers, spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the fuzziness filler is selected from the group consisting of polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, carnauba microwires, synthetic wax microwaxes, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical particles of silicone, acrylic copolymer powders, expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres, polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate powders, starch powders, polyamide powders, silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, hydrophobic airgel particles, talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, silica / TiO 2 composites, barium sulphate particles , particles of boron nitride, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2%, the mi amorphous silica crospheres, silica micro-beads, talc / TiO2 / alumina / silica composite powders, spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one soft focus filler selected from polymethyl methacrylate (solid or core shell) powders, talc / TiO 2 / alumina / silica composite powders, silica / TiO 2, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, cross - linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, cross - linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane siloxane powders coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, spherical cellulose beads, and their mixtures. According to another preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one soft focus filler selected from the group consisting of acrylic copolymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders (solid or core shell microspheres), composite powders of talc / TiO2 / alumina / silica, silica / TiO2 composite powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, starch powders, polyamide powders, spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.
[0096] As soft focus fillers usable according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: talc / TiO 2 / alumina / silica composite powders, for instance those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80® by the company Catalyst &Chemicals; silica / TiO 2 composites, such as those sold by Sunjin Chemical under the name Sunsil Tin 50; Acrylic powders, in particular methyl poly (meth) acrylate, such as, for example, PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles from Nihon Junyoki, with an average size of 8 μm, and the hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name Covabeads LH85® by Wackherr, PMMA Ganzpearl GMP0820® particles from Ganz Chemical, and the expanded methylene vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancele; hollow spheres of copolymer acrylates / ethylhexyl and acrylate crosspolymer, such as those sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name Maquibeads SP10; microspheres of acrylate / ethylhexylacrylate copolymers, such as those sold by Serisui Plastics under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C; the hollow hemispherical silicone particles of the INCI `methylesilanol / silicate crosspolymer 'name as described in applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-A-2000-191789, for example NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat; Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles (INCI name: silica silylate), such as those marketed by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles; cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, such as Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder® from Dow Corning (INCI name `dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer '); or those marketed by Dow Corning under the name EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder (INCI name "Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) Butylene glycol"; -powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin; as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company Shin Etsu, or those of the INCI name "vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated 3021533 57 with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate" marketed by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP100; starch powders, in particular aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, such as that marketed by Akzo Nobel under the name Dry Flo Plus; polyamide powders, such as Nylon® 12 powder, especially that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem; spherical cellulose beads, such as those marketed by the company Daito Kasei under the name Cellulobeads USF; 10 - and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the bloomer fillers used according to the invention are chosen from: talc / TiO 2 / alumina / silica composite powders, for example those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80® by the company Catalyst &Chemicals; Acrylic copolymer powders, in particular the hollow spheres of acrylate / ethylhexyl and crosspolymer acrylate copolymers, such as those sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name Maquibeads SP10; the hollow hemispherical silicone particles, of the INCI name `methylesilanol / silicate crosspolymer 'as described in applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-A-2000-191789, for example NLK 506® from Takemoto Oil and Fat ; elastomeric organopolysiloxane crosslinked powders, such as those marketed by Dow Corning under the name EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder (INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) Butylene glycol; elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders) crosslinked coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, such as those sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company Shin Etsu or INCI name "Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol 3021533 58 tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate" marketed by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP And even more preferably, the blooming fillers used according to the invention are chosen from: talc / TiO 2 / alumina / composite powders silica, such as those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80® by Catalyst &Chemicals; elastomeric organopolysiloxane crosslinked powders, such as those sold by Dow Corning under the name EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder (INCI name: "Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) Butylene glycol"; organopolysiloxane powders); crosslinked elastomeric coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, such as those sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by The company Shin Etsu or INCI name "Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate" marketed by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP- 100 and their mixtures.
[0097] According to one embodiment, the one or more blooming fillers are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled aqueous phase. According to another embodiment, the one or more blooming fillers are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled oily phase. According to another embodiment, the composition comprises a blooming filler in the gelled aqueous phase and a second blooming filler in the oily phase, the latter also being able to act as an oily gelling agent. In particular, when the blooming filler also acts as an oily gelling agent, it is present in a content greater than 12% by weight, and preferably greater than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] According to another embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the filler (s) with a blooming effect are distinct from the oily gelling agent (s).
[0099] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 37% by weight, in particular from 0.75% to 35% by weight and preferably from 1% to 1% by weight. % to 30% by weight of filler load (s), based on the total weight of said composition.
[0100] AQUEOUS PHASE The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, more preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to another variant embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C 2 -C 32 polyol.
[0101] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature. A polyol suitable for the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four functions -OH.
[0102] The polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the polyol may be, for example, chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol glycerol, polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol. According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol. OIL PHASE For the purposes of the invention, an oily phase comprises at least one oil. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature at atmospheric pressure. An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, or mixtures thereof. The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0103] They may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one variant embodiment, the oils of plant origin are preferred. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[0104] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals. By "volatile oil" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa. at 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm). of Hg).
[0105] Volatile oils Volatile oils may be hydrocarbon or silicone. Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made of C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane. and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.
[0106] It is also possible to mention volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12). and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 1497, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cii) and n-tridecane ( C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
[0108] Cyclic silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. Non-volatile oils The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be mentioned include: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RiCOOR 2, in which R 1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, carbon, with the proviso that R 1 + R 2 is 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxyl esters, such as isostearyl lactate , hydroxystearate octyl, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, non-phenylated silicone oils, for example caprylyl methycone, and phenylated silicone oils, for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimines, imethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone of viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils.
[0109] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oils. A composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight, better still from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 7% to 35% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0110] As specified above, the gelled oily phase according to the invention may have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa. This threshold stress value reflects a gel-like texture of this oily phase. COLORING MATERIALS A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one particulate or non-particulate matter, water-soluble or otherwise, and preferably at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the dyestuffs in question and its adjustment is clearly within the competence of the man of the art. 'art. A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, and preferably 2.5% by weight. 15% by weight of dyestuffs, relative to the total weight of said composition. As specified above, the dyestuffs that are suitable for the invention can be water-soluble but also fat-soluble.
[0111] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dyestuff" means any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible and colorable solvents. As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, water-soluble synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30 can be mentioned. DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophylline, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel. For the purposes of the invention, the term "liposoluble coloring matter" means any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase, or solvents which are miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring. As liposoluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, liposoluble, synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 can be mentioned. , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (13-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, yellow quinoline, annatto, curcumin. The particulate coloring materials may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
[0112] It may especially be pigments, pearlescent agents and / or particles with metallic reflections. The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the composition containing them.
[0113] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 2.5% by weight. % to 15% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0114] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, it may comprise at least 2.5%, and preferably at least 10% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition. The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.
[0115] As inorganic pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, blue ultramarine and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio of about 30. It may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of type silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Advantageously, the pigments according to the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.
[0116] By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres, relative to the total weight of said composition. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.
[0117] By way of example of nacres, mention may also be made of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, 5 the nacres Timiron marketed by the company Merck, nacres based on mica Prestige marketed by the Eckart company and the nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.
[0118] Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and bismuth oxychloride. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "metal-reflecting particles" is intended to mean any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface state makes it possible for it to reflect the incident light, in particular in a non-iridescent manner. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and - mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart, and glass particles coated with 3021533 67 metal layer including those described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710. Hydrophobic treatment of dyestuffs The pulverulent dyestuffs as described above may be surface-treated, totally or partially, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the invention, in particular so that they have good wettability with oils. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase.
[0119] Hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in EP-A-1086683. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates; hexafluoropropylene polyoxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; Nacylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof. The term alkyl mentioned in the above-mentioned compounds denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to one or more filler (s) with a blooming effect, one or more filler (s) conventionally used in skincare and / or makeup compositions. These ancillary charges are colorless or solid white particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
[0120] Of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, they make it possible to give the composition containing them softness, dullness and uniformity in makeup.
[0121] In particular, such additional charges may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.5% and 7% by weight, in particular between 0.5% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] According to one embodiment of the invention, a composition may comprise at least solid particles such as pigments and / or additional charges. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably 5% by weight. at 15% by weight of solid particles, relative to the total weight of the composition. DISPERSANT AGENT Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise a dispersing agent. Such a dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them. According to one particular embodiment, a dispersing agent according to the invention is a surfactant. According to a particular variant embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition. even is devoid of surfactant. ACTIVE For a particular care application, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant). Preferably, the moisturizing agent is glycerin. The moisturizing agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight, or even from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Other active agents which may be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, vitamins, sunscreens and mixtures thereof.
[0123] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent. It is a matter of routine practice for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof do not are not affected. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skincare composition for the body or face, in particular the face.
[0124] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a make-up makeup base composition. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.
[0125] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin and in particular the face. It can be an eyeshadow or a blush. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a lip product, especially a lipstick. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a product for the eyelashes, in particular a mascara. Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
[0126] Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified.
[0127] The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples and figures presented hereinafter. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.
[0128] 5 METHODOLOGY FOR DYNAMIC OSCILLATION RHEOLOGY MEASUREMENTS These are harmonic rheological measurements that measure the elastic modulus. The measurements are carried out using a Haake RS600 rheometer on a product at rest, at 25 ° C. with a plane plane 60 mm mobile and a gap of 2 mm. The measurements in harmonic regime make it possible to characterize the viscoelastic properties of the products. The technique involves subjecting a material to sinusoidally varying stress over time and measuring the response of the material to that stress. In a domain where the behavior is linear viscoelastic (zone 15 where the deformation is proportional to the stress), the stress (T) and the deformation (y) are two sinusoidal functions of time which are written in the following way: t) = To sin (wt) y (t) = yo sin (wt + δ) where: 20 'ro represents the maximum amplitude of the stress (Pa); yo represents the maximum amplitude of the deformation (-); = 2IN represents the pulsation (rad.s-1) with N representing the frequency (Hz); and represents the phase shift of the stress with respect to the deformation (rad). Thus, the two functions have the same angular frequency but are out of phase by an angle δ. According to the phase shift S between T (t) and y (t), the behavior of the system can be apprehended: - If S = 0, the material is purely elastic; - If S = II / 2, the material is purely viscous (Newtonian fluid); and - If 0 <S <II / 2, the material is viscoelastic.
[0129] In general, the stress and the deformation are written in complex form: T * (t) = 'ro eiwt y * (t) = yo e (' 3021533 71 A complex modulus of rigidity, representing the overall resistance of the material to the deformation whether of elastic or viscous origin, is then defined by: G * = T * / y * = G '+ iG "Where: 5 G' is the modulus of conservation or elastic modulus which characterizes the energy stored and totally restored during a cycle, G '= (ro / yo) cos S, and G "is the loss module or viscous modulus which characterizes the energy dissipated by internal friction during a cycle, G The parameter used is the modulus of average stiffness G * measured at the plate 10 measured at a frequency of 1 Hz. EXAMPLES Example 1: Smoothing care composition according to the invention A care formulation In accordance with the invention, the smoothing agent is prepared as follows: The components of phase A are weighed in a beaker and placed under a rayneri, at room temperature. The components of phase Al are weighed and then added to phase A at room temperature, and then the mixture is allowed to homogenize, by stirring rayneri, for 5 minutes during which the walls of the beaker are scraped with a marysette. After homogenization of the gel, the components of phases B and B1, which have been weighed, are added progressively at room temperature until complete incorporation for 5 to 10 minutes, with vigorous stirring.
[0130] The walls are scraped with a marysette and the mixture is allowed to homogenise for 5 minutes under vigorous stirring at room temperature. The formula is prepared from the weight proportions described below.
[0131] 3021533 72 Phase Compounds Formula (% by weight / total weight of the composition) Phase A WATER Qs 100 GLYCERINE 10.00 CONSERVATEERS 0.70 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM 0.33 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV® EMT 10 sold by SEPPIC) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE 12.00 Al CROSSPOLYMER (AND) BUTYLENE GLYCOL marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder Phase B DIMETHICONE 8.00 Phase VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE 16.00 B1 SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER marketed by Shin Etsu under the name KSP-100 The composition according to the invention, when it is applied, shows very good blurring qualities. In particular, a net decrease of the pores is observed.
[0132] EXAMPLE 2 Gel-gel compositions according to the invention In order to demonstrate the blurring properties of the gel-gel compositions according to the invention, measurements were carried out. 1) Preparation of gel-gel compositions Formulations according to the invention are prepared as described below. The components of phase A are weighed in a beaker and stirred with Rayneri at room temperature. After homogenization of the gel, the components of phase B, which have been weighed, are added gradually at room temperature, with vigorous stirring. The gel-gel composition is formed. The mixture is left to homogenize with stirring rayneri for about 5 minutes at room temperature, while scraping the walls of the beaker with a marysette.
[0133] The mixture is left stirring vigorously for approximately 5 minutes at room temperature. The formula is prepared from the weight proportions described below. Phase Compounds Formula (% by weight / total weight of the composition) Phase A WATER Qsp 100 GLYCERINE 6.60 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.98 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM 3 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV® EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC) Phase B DIMETHICONE 10 , 00 DIMETHICONE 84.5% / DIMETHICONE 17.50 CROSSPOLYMER 15.5% (271%) (DC9041® marketed by the company Dow Corning) (*% dry matter dimethicone crosspolymer) 5 2) Adding bloomer fillers Five gel-gel compositions, as described above, are prepared and in each of them a blooming filler is added in a content equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the tested composition.
[0134] Each of the following bloomer fillers was tested: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Butylene Glycol sold by Dow Corning under the name EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder; "Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer" marketed by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name Maquibeads SP-10; "Talc (and) Silica (and) Alumina (and) Titanium Dioxide" marketed by Catalysts & Chemicals under the name Coverleaf AR-80; "Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate" sold by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP-100; and "Methysilanol / silicate crosspolymer" marketed by Takemoto Oil & Fat under the name NLK 506. 3021533 74 3) Evaluation of the blooming effect The various formulas were spread with a thickness of 25 microns on a polyethylene film of 50 μm and the blooming effect of each composition was evaluated with different methods for measuring total transmittance and "Haze". The "Haze" corresponds to the percentage of scattered light relative to the total transmittance according to ASTM Standard 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics). The results are shown in the table below: 10 Charges Gel-gel composition Transmittance Haze EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder 93.5 78.2 Maquibeads SP-10 93.2 68.8 Coverleaf AR-80 92.6 68.2 MW-SRP-100 93.3 68.1 NLK 506 91.4 57.8 A high 'haze' translates into an important blur. The gel-gel compositions incorporating the bloomer fillers have high "Haze". Thus, it is proved that the gel-gel compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain an important blur. EXAMPLE 3 Comparison of the Effect of the Gel-Gel Compositions Compared to the Aqueous or Oily Mono-Gel Compositions The "booster" effect of the gel-gel compositions on the properties of the blooming fillers, compared with mono- gel, has been demonstrated by performing blur measurements. Thus, the properties of bi-gel compositions comprising distinct blooming charges were compared to those of single-gel compositions containing the same fillers at the same concentration. 1) Preparation of the gel-gel composition The gel-gel composition in which the fillers were added is the same as that of Example 2. 2) Preparation of the aqueous mono-gel composition The components of the phase A are weighed in a beaker and stirred with rayneri at room temperature. The component of phase B is weighed into a capsule and added with vigorous stirring in phase A at room temperature.
[0135] The product thickens and the aqueous gel is formed. The mixture is left stirring for about 5 minutes at room temperature, while scraping with a maresette the walls of the beaker, until a perfect homogenization. The formula is prepared from the weight proportions described below.
[0136] Phase Compounds Formula (% by weight / total weight of the composition) A WATER Qs 100 GLYCERINE 9.10 PRESERVATERS 1.35 B HYDROXYETHYL 4.15 ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV® EMT 10 commercially available from SEPPIC company) 3) Preparation of the oily mono-gel composition The components of phase A are weighed in a beaker and placed under strong stirring at room temperature.
[0137] The gel is formed. The mixture is left stirring for about two times for 5 minutes at room temperature, while scraping with a maresette the walls of the beaker, until a perfect homogenization. The formula is prepared from the weight proportions described below.
[0138] Phase Compounds Formula (% by weight / total weight of the composition) A DIMETHICONE 36.36 DIMETHICONE 84.5% / DIMETHICONE 64.64 CROSSPOLYMER 15.5% (DC9041® marketed by Dow Corning) (*% in dimethicone crosspolymer solids) 4) Addition of blooming fillers In each of the gel-gel and mono-gel compositions, described above in points 1) to 3), a blooming filler is added in a blending content. equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the tested composition. Each of the following blooming effect fillers is tested in each of the gel-gel and aqueous mono-gel compositions: Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) butylene glycol sold by Dow Corning under the name EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic 10 Powder ; "Talc (and) Silica (and) Alumina (and) Titanium Dioxide" marketed by Catalysts & Chemicals under the name Coverleaf AR-80; and "vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate" marketed by Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP-100. The "Methysilanol / silicate crosspolymer" filler marketed by Takemoto Oil & Fat under the name NLK 506 was tested in the gel-gel composition and in the oily mono-gel composition. 5) Evaluation of the blooming effect The different formulas were spread with a thickness of 25 microns on a polyethylene film of 50 μm and the blooming effect of each composition was evaluated with different methods for measuring the transmittance. total and the "Haze" as shown in Example 2.
[0139] The results are shown in the table below: Charges Bi-gel composition Mono-gel aqueous composition Oily mono-gel composition Transmittance Haze Transmittance Haze Transmittance Haze EP-9801 93.5 78.2 93.4 41.2 / / Hydrocosmetic Powder MW-SRP-100 93.3 68.1 93.0 54.0 / / NLK 506 91.4 57.8 / / 93.0 44.7 Coverleaf AR- 92.6 68.2 93.1 55.0 / / I: not measurable because the nature of the charge (lipophilic or hydrophilic) is not compatible with the medium into which it is introduced. As mentioned above, a high "Haze" translates an important blur.
[0140] The gel-gel compositions incorporating the bloomer fillers exhibit the highest "Haze" in comparison with the mono-gel compositions comprising the same fillers in the same amount. The gel-gel compositions thus have a "booster" effect on the properties of the blooming fillers, compared to the aqueous or oily mono-gel compositions. 10

权利要求:
Claims (21)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular skin and / or lips, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least one blooming filler.
[0002]
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising from 0.2% to 40% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 37% by weight, in particular from 0.75% to 35% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 1% by weight. % to 30% by weight of filler load (s), based on the total weight of said composition.
[0003]
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said blooming fillers or fillers are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled aqueous phase or are present in whole or in part, and preferably only in the gelled oily phase.
[0004]
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more blooming fillers are chosen from polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, carnauba microwaxes, synthetic wax waxes, resin powders, silicone, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, acrylic copolymer powders, expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres, polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, hydrophobic airgel particles , talc of lower average size or 3 microns, silica / TiO 2 composites, barium sulphate particles, boron nitride particles, surface treated silica particles with 1% to 2% mineral wax, amorphous silica microspheres, silica micro-beads, talc / TiO2 / alumina / silica composite powders, silicone elastomers, spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.
[0005]
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the one or more blooming fillers are chosen from acrylic copolymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, talc / TiO2 / alumina / silica composite powders, silica / TiO 2 composite powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, Spherical cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
[0006]
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, as synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one gelling agent chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid copolymers, crosslinked and / or neutralized. 15
[0007]
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, as synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.
[0008]
A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said lipophilic gelling agent is selected from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen bonded polymers and mixtures thereof .
[0009]
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, preferably chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone. Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, and especially Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
[0010]
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one dispersed silicone elastomer gel 3021533 80 in a silicone oil and / or an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silsesquioxane resin.
[0011]
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing as a hydrophilic gelling system / lipophilic gelling agent, a copolymer system of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid / elastomer (s) of organopolysiloxane.
[0012]
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing the aqueous and oily phases in an aqueous phase / oil phase weight ratio of 95/5 to 5/95, preferably 30/70 to 80/20. 10
[0013]
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a skincare composition for the body or face, in particular the face.
[0014]
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least solid particles such as pigments and / or ancillary charges.
[0015]
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oils.
[0016]
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one moisturizing agent, preferably glycerine. 20
[0017]
17. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of mixing: an aqueous phase gelled with at least one a synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent as defined in claims 1, 6 and 7; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; under conditions conducive to obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition further comprising at least one blooming filler.
[0018]
18. The method of claim 17, comprising a step of mixing at least three gelled phases or more. 3021533 81
[0019]
The process of any one of claims 17 or 18 wherein the mixing is performed at room temperature.
[0020]
20. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous substances, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to said keratin material a composition as defined according to any one of the following: Claims 1 to 16.
[0021]
21. A cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of a keratinous material, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least the application on said material of a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratinous material, at least one gelled aqueous phase with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent as defined in claims 1, 6 and 7, and at least one oily phase gelled by at least one a lipophilic gelling agent; and said composition further comprising at least one blooming filler. 15

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FR3090327A1|2020-06-26|Gelled composition comprising two hydrophilic gelling agents and solid aggregates

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FR2992213A1|2013-12-27|Cosmetic composition comprises pulverulent coloring materials, 0.1 wt.% of hydrophobic aerogel silica particles, and a vinyl polymer having unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer

同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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US20170189278A1|2017-07-06|

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JP6502389B2|2019-04-17|

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ES2751661T3|2020-04-01|

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CN106456511A|2017-02-22|

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FR3021533B1|2017-09-15|

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WO2015181733A1|2015-12-03|

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JP2017516782A|2017-06-22|

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EP3148646A1|2017-04-05|

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CN106456511B|2019-12-03|

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CN111067807A|2020-04-28|

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EP3148646B1|2019-08-21|

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KR101935647B1|2019-01-04|

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KR20170005143A|2017-01-11|

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法律状态:
2015-05-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |

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2015-12-04| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20151204 |

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2016-04-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2017-04-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2018-04-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

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2020-04-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

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2022-02-11| ST| Notification of lapse|Effective date: 20220105 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1454855A|FR3021533B1|2014-05-28|2014-05-28|COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF GEL TYPE|FR1454855A| FR3021533B1|2014-05-28|2014-05-28|COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF GEL TYPE|

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KR1020167036561A| KR101935647B1|2014-05-28|2015-05-27|Cosmetic composition for make up and for taking care of keratin materials|

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CN201580028336.1A| CN106456511B|2014-05-28|2015-05-27|For making up and nursing the cosmetic composition of keratin material|

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US15/314,221| US20170189278A1|2014-05-28|2015-05-27|Gel-type cosmetic composition|

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CN201911076894.1A| CN111067807A|2014-05-28|2015-05-27|Cosmetic composition for making up and caring for keratin materials|

---

ES15731700T| ES2751661T3|2014-05-28|2015-05-27|Cosmetic composition for makeup and care of keratin materials|

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PCT/IB2015/053953| WO2015181733A1|2014-05-28|2015-05-27|Cosmetic composition for make up and for taking care of keratin materials|

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JP2016569441A| JP6502389B2|2014-05-28|2015-05-27|Cosmetic composition for making up and care of keratinous substances|

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EP15731700.9A| EP3148646B1|2014-05-28|2015-05-27|Cosmetic composition for make up and for taking care of keratin materials|