Process for treating fibers and / or textile materials

专利摘要:
treatment process of fibers and / or textile materials is a process of treatment of textile materials that contain microcapsules of active ingredients, and the fibers and / or textile materials result from this process and its cosmetic or pharmaceutical use and / or its use as a repellent.
公开号:BR112012023400B1
申请号:R112012023400-5
申请日:2011-03-24
公开日:2020-05-26
发明作者:Josep Lluís Viladot Petit；Raquel DELGADO GONZÁLEZ；Alfonso Fernández Botello
申请人:Lipotec S.A.；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

FIBER AND / OR MATERIAL TREATMENT PROCESS
TEXTILES
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention is within the field of encapsulation of active ingredients and the treatment of textile materials. In particular, it refers to a process for treating textile materials and their cosmetic or pharmaceutical use or their use as an insect repellent.
PREVIOUS TECHNIQUE
In the prior art there are different techniques for encapsulating cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active ingredients in microcapsules. Encapsulation techniques consist of coating active ingredients that are useful in different fields such as cosmetics, pharmacy or food in the form of different natural polymers to obtain particles between 1 pm and 1 mm in size. [AND. G. JalonDe, M. J. Blanco-Prieto, P. Ygartua, and S. Santoyo. Eur. J. Pharm. Biopharm. 56: 183 to 187 (2003); M. A. Augustin and Y. Hemar. Chem. Soc. Rev., 2009, 38, 902 to 912; Sofia N. Rodrigues, Isabel Fernandes, Isabel M. Martins, Vera G. Mata, Filomena Barreiro, and Alirio E. Rodrigues. Ind. Eng. Chem. Res. 2008, 47 (12), 4,142 to 4,147; Stephan Drusch and Saverio Mannino. Trends in Food Science & Technology 2009, 20, 237 to 244]. A microcapsule has a relatively simple morphological structure and is comprised of two clearly differentiated elements, a nucleus that contains one or more active ingredients and a polymeric coating that surrounds the nucleus and thus protects the active ingredients from the outside [W. Sliwka. Angew. Chem. Internat. Edit. 14, 539 (1975)].
Among the processes for encapsulation of active ingredients, one of the most common is encapsulation by a coacervation process, which can be simple coacervation
Petition 870190137407, of 12/20/2019, p. 10/19
2/57 or complex. Coacervation is based on the non-solubilization of a polymer in a colloidal system by a process of deposition of coacervated particles that encapsulates at least one active ingredient within it. Among the mechanisms that induce the decrease in solubility and, consequently, the deposition of the coacervate, are changes in temperature, changes in pH, addition of a polymer non-solvent, a salt or an incompatible polymer. Initially, the active ingredient that must be encapsulated is dispersed in the liquid or solid form of the polymer or polymers that form the coating. Then, the formation of the polymer or polymer coacervate is induced by one of the above mechanisms, followed by its deposition in the active ingredient. The continuous deposition of the polymer caused a reduction in the free energy of the system, due to a reduction of the surface area during the coalescence of the polymeric coacervate that results in the formation of a continuous coating around the encapsulated active ingredient. Then, the hardening of the polymeric coating of the coacervate is carried out, in a process known as crosslinking, by the addition of a crosslinking agent and optionally cooling the system. Finally, separation of the microcapsules by centrifugation or filtration is performed. As previously determined, there are two types of coacervation, simple and complex. Simple coacervation occurs when a polymer non-solvent is added to the system, usually a very hydrophilic substance, which causes the separation in two phases with the formation of the coacervate. Examples of this procedure are described in documents such as ES 2009346, EP 052510 Al and EP 0346879 Al. Complex coacervation is achieved when two colloidal substances with an opposite electrical charge interact to produce a complex that has less solubility than separate colloids and that is deposited in the ingredient
3/57 active to be encapsulated forming a membrane that isolates the active ingredient. Examples of this procedure are described in documents such as WO 02/092217, WO 2005/105290, EP 1261421 Al and EP 18737074 Al. Complex coacervation is very dependent on pH, as the electrostatic interaction between the two colloidal substances is performed with a range of pH at which one of the colloidal substances is in its acidic cationic form and the other colloidal substance is in its basic cationic form.
One of the microencapsulation applications that has been of great interest in recent years is the treatment of fibers and textile materials in order to improve their appearance, brightness, color, smell and elasticity or provide new fiber or textile material with features such as treatment and / or skin, scalp and / or hair care. Microencapsulation is a solution normally used to agglutinate the active ingredient encapsulated to the fiber or textile material as this allows the prolongation of the active ingredient's permanence in the fiber or textile material and is slowly released on the skin, scalp and / or hair by degradation microcapsules by pressure, heat, friction, osmosis or body moisture. Thus, a continuous release of active ingredients on the skin, scalp and / or hair is achieved through textile materials.
In the prior art there are different types of agglutination or binding of microcapsules to fibers or textile materials, for example, one of the types of agglutination consists of agglutination of microcapsules to fibers or textile materials through covalent bonds [W.Chao-Xia and C. Shui -Lin, Coloration Technology 2004, 120, 14 to 18]. In a typical embodiment, the microcapsule coating is formed by cyclodextrins and, preferably, the encapsulated active ingredients are perfumes or agents
4/57 odor retainers. The fact that the microcapsules are bonded or covalently bonded means that they remain in the fibers or textile materials and the microcapsules of the active ingredient to be encapsulated can be refilled. The main problem presented by this type of agglutination is that the creation of covalent bonds gives a change in the chemical structure of the fiber, which can lead to the degradation and rupture of the textile material.
Another type of agglutination or binding of microcapsules to fibers or textile materials consists of making fibers in solutions in which microcapsules containing the active ingredients that must be attached to the fibers are already present [Qi, Ping Hu, Jun Xu, and Wang Biomacromolecules , 2006, 7 (8), 2,327 to 2,330]. This is a type of agglutination or binding that is limited only to active ingredients that must not pass through the skin, such as insect repellents, and that, therefore, excludes any type of active ingredient cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically used.
A final type of agglutination or binding of microcapsules to fibers or textile materials is through ionic bonds between microcapsules and fibers [P. Monllor, L. Sánchez, F. Cases and M. A. Bonet, Textile Research Journal 2009, 79, 365 to 380]. Agglutination is caused by electrostatic interaction between the negative charges of the fibers of the textile materials and the microcapsules that were previously cationized. The main advantages of this type of agglutination or bonding over the previous types are that it is not limited to one type of active ingredient and that this type of agglutination to fibers or textile materials is not detrimental to the mechanical properties of the textile material as in the case of bonding covalent. Additionally, and also different from the other types of microcapsule agglutination
5/57 that contain active ingredients in textile materials, there is the possibility for the final consumer to recharge the textile material with the microencapsulated active ingredients themselves.
However, one of the problems that arises for fibers or textile materials that contain active ingredients is the low resistance to washing both of the microcapsules that contain the active ingredients, as well as the low performance of the active ingredients in the microcapsules when they come into contact with the surfactants. washing agents for textile materials. The surfactants of washing agents that are used to dissolve dirt particles in textile materials also have the ability to penetrate microcapsules that are bonded or bonded to the textile material and cause the solution of the active ingredient that has been encapsulated by removing it from the textile material. Similarly, the low resistance to washing causes microcapsules, and consequently the active ingredient, to be lost during washing without the active ingredient being transferred to the skin, scalp and / or hair. Both the low washing resistance of the microcapsules bonded to the fibers or textile materials and the permanence of the active ingredients in the microcapsules are deeply related to the processes of agglutination or binding of the microcapsules to the fibers or textile materials, as well as the processes of preparing the microcapsule.
However, none of the types of agglutination of microcapsules to fibers or textile materials previously known in the prior art enable the encapsulated active ingredient to remain in the textile material for an acceptable number of washes. Therefore, there is a need in the prior art for a process for treating textile materials that solves the problems mentioned above.
6/57
Japanese patent application JP 50-20084 describes a process for bonding microcapsules that contain dyes to fabrics. The microcapsules described in the aforementioned document are prepared by a coacervation process, in which once the coacervate is formed at pH 4.5, the crosslinking of the coacervate is carried out at pH 9. However, there are no indications in this document that the increase in pH in the cross-linking step allows the microcapsules to stick to the textile material to be obtained and the active ingredient contained therein resists a certain number of washes. In addition, the size of the microcapsules formed in that document, from 10 0 to 3 00 pm in diameter, largely prevents the agglutination of the microcapsules to the textile material, as well as obtaining a regular distribution of these throughout the textile material and a good performance microcapsules in the textile material. On the other hand, this increased size of the microcapsules does not prevent the surfactant from the washing agents of textile materials to enter the microcapsules and solubilize the active ingredient and remove that from the textile material.
Similarly, US2800457 describes a complex coacervation process for microcapsules, in which the pH is optionally increased before the crosslinking of the formed microcapsules. However, in that document, it is not considered that the microcapsules formed by this process can be bonded to the fibers or textile materials, not to mention that the microcapsules in the obtained textile material could still be bonded to the textile material after drying at temperatures above 100 ° C.
Surprisingly, the inventors of this invention have disclosed a process for the treatment of textile materials that contain at least one active ingredient bonded to fibers and / or textile materials in which an increase in pH once
7/57 that microcapsule coacervates have been formed and that before their cross-linking, makes it possible to obtain fibers and / or textile materials that contain at least one active ingredient in which the active ingredient remains in the fibers and / or textile materials for a number acceptable washes.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to a process for treating fibers and / or textile materials that solves the problems described above.
According to a first aspect, this invention describes a process for treating fibers and / or textile materials that contain at least one active ingredient comprising the following steps:
a) dissolve two hydrophilic colloids in a solvent in which they are soluble and add at least one active ingredient to form a suspension of the active ingredient in that solution,
b) adjust the pH and / or dilute the previous suspension to cause the colloids to coacervate and deposit in the active ingredient that is thus encapsulated,
c) increase the pH of the suspension and add a cross-linking agent to harden the formed microcapsules,
d) cationize the microcapsules with a polymer or a cationic monomer,
e) connect or agglutinate the microcapsules to fibers and / or textile materials,
f) drying fibers and / or textile materials.
The order of the steps is consecutive a), b), c), d), e) and f). Optionally, between steps b) and c) there is an intermediate step of cooling the microcapsules obtained in step b). This process of treating fibers and / or textile materials allows regular distribution of the microcapsules to be obtained over the entire fiber surface
8/57 and / or textile material due to the small size of the microcapsules. In addition, this small size of the microcapsules also results in a greater penetration of the microcapsules in the fiber and / or textile material, which leads to a longer permanence after washing. On the other hand, the polymeric coating of the microcapsules formed by the hydrophilic colloids is extremely rigid and compact, which makes the microcapsules stable after drying the fiber and / or textile material.
In the context of this invention, the treatment of fibers and / or textile materials allows fibers and / or textile materials to be obtained with functional characteristics such as cosmetic, pharmaceutical or insect repellents.
In a particular embodiment, the two hydrophilic colloids are selected, without restriction, from the group formed by proteins, polysaccharides, polyesters, polyacrylates, polyacrylates, polyethylene glycol, copolymers and / or mixtures thereof. Preferably, proteins and polysaccharides are selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by gelatin, albumin, βlactoglobulin, whey protein, pea protein, potato protein, broad bean protein, wheat protein, bovine serum albumin , poly-L-lysine, soy protein, caseinates, casein, soy glycine, sodium alginate, wheat starch, corn starch, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (HPMC), cellulose nitrate, carboxymethyl cellulose, gum arabic, gum xanthan, mesquite gum, guar gum, carrageenan, tragacanth gum, arabinogalactans, galactomannans, sodium hexametaphosphate, B40 exopolysaccharide, sodium carboxymethyl, pectin, methoxy pectin, agar, dextran, chitosan, cellulose acetate, acetate, cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate acrylic derivatives and
9/57 polyesters such as poly-ε-caprolactone, zein, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalate, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose succinate, polyvinyl phthalate acetate, poly (p-dioxanone), poly (δ-valerolactone), ρο1ί (βhydroxybutyrate), ρο-hydroxybutyrate, (β-hydroxybutyrate) and βhydroxyvalerate, poly (β-hydroxypropionate), methylacrylic acid copolymers (Eudragit® L and S), dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers (Eudragit® E), E-methacrylamide (Eudragil) and trimethyl methacrylate copolymers , polymers and copolymers of lactic and glycolic acid, polymers and copolymers of lactic and glycolic acid and polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
In another particular embodiment, the hydrophilic colloid solvent is water or an aqueous solution.
In another particular embodiment, step a) of the process of the invention is carried out at a temperature of preferably more than 40 ° C, and more preferably at more than 50 ° C.
In another particular embodiment, the pH adjustment in stage b) of the process of the invention depends on the combination of colloids used to form the coacervate, but preferably it is an acidic pH, between 3 and 5.5, and more preferably between 4 and 5.
In another particular embodiment, the temperature at which the microcapsules are cooled between step b) and step c) is less than 30 ° C, and preferably less than or equal to 10 ° C.
In another particular embodiment, the increase in pH in step c) of the process of the invention is a pH between 6.5 and 13, preferably a pH between 7 and 10.
In another particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent of the process step of the invention is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by aldehydes
10/57 such as glutaraldehyde or formaldehyde; transglutaminases derived from methylenebisacrylamide, N, Nmetilenobisacrilamida, N, N- (1,2diidroxietileno) bisacrylamide derivatives, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate , sodium tripolyphosphate, Nhydroxysuccinamide esters and / or imidoesters.
In another particular embodiment, the size of the microcapsules after the crosslinking step c) is less than μτη, preferably less than 10 pm.
In another particular embodiment, the cationic polymer used to cationize the microcapsules in step d) of the process of the invention is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by cationic cellulose derivatives, such as quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose, which can be purchased under the name Polymer JR 400TM with Amerchol; cationic starches; copolymers of diallyl ammonium and acrylamide salt; quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as LuviquatTM (BASF); condensation products of polyglycols and amines; polyquaternium polymers and copolymers; polymers called polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-10; polyquaternium-4 copolymers;
dicocoylethylhydroxyethylammonium, graft copolymers with a cellulose skeleton and quaternary ammonium groups; quaternized collagen polypeptides such as collagen hydrolyzed by hydroxypropillauryldimony (LamequatTM with Grünau); quaternized wheat polypeptides; polyethylenimine; cationic silicone polymers such as amidomethicone or quaternium-22 silicone; adipic acid and
11/57 copolymers of dimethylamino hydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (CartaretineTM with Sandoz); copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (MerquatTM 550 with Chemviron); cationic chitin derivatives such as chitosan and its derivatives; condensation products of cationic alkylene dihalogen such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines; bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane; derivatives of cationic guar gum such as guar hydroxypropyltrimony, Jaguar ™ CBS, Jaguar ™ C-17, Jaguar ™ C-16 with Celanese; polymers of quaternary ammonium salt such as Mirapol ™ A15, Mirapol ™ AD-1, Mirapol ™ AZ-1 with Miranol; quaternized polysaccharide polymers of natural derivatives such as azarose; cationic proteins selected from gelatin, gum arabic; cationic polymers of the group formed by polyamides, polycyanoacrylates, polylactides, polyglycolides, polyaniline, polypyrrole, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polymers and copolymers of silicone ammo, polystyrene, polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene anhydride and copolymers of polystyrene anhydride and maleic acid; and methyl methacrylate; dimethylamino methacrylate, polyacrylates and cationic polymethacrylates such as Eudragit ™ RL 30 D with Rôhm; polyamine derivatives optionally substituted by derived polyethylene glycol members; polyamino acids under pH conditions where they are cationic; polyethyleneimine; quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone derivatives (PVP) and hydrophilic urethane polymers, as well as any mixture of the aforementioned cationic groups.
In another particular embodiment, the cationic polymer used to cationize the microcapsules in step d) of the process of the invention is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by dichocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, cetrimonium chloride, methosulfate of
12/57 distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, babassuamidopropalkonium chloride, trimethyl acetamide propyl chloride, cetrimony tosylate, hydroxyisultaine oleamidopropyl, quaternium-22, ammonium dichloride, chloride, dimethyl-dithion, chloride, dimethyl-chloride hydrogenated by PEG-5, trimethylsilyl chloride, soya propyl, minoxidyl, capriloal glycine, hydroxypropyltrimony hydrogenated corn starch, cysteine hydrochloride, biotin, carnitine, ceramide 2, ceramide 1, ceramide 6, alanine, cocamidoethyl betaine, cystine, protein of rice hydrolyzed by hydroxypropyl cocodimony, DEAisostearate, DEA-lauraminopropionate, disodium lauriminodiacetate.
In another particular embodiment, the binding or agglutination of the microcapsules to the fibers and / or textile materials in step e) of the process of this invention is carried out by an exhaust bath, by fula, or by spraying. In the context of this invention, the terms agglutination and binding are used without distinction.
In another particular embodiment, the drying of fibers and / or textile materials of this process of the invention is carried out for at least 2 minutes at temperatures above 100 ° C, preferably equal to or greater than 120 ° C.
The process of this invention solves the problem of loss of active ingredient in fibers and / or textile materials after being washed. The permanence of the active ingredient for an acceptable number of washes of the fibers and / or textile materials means that more than 5% of the active ingredient in the fibers and / or textile materials after 10 washes and, more preferably, more than 10% after 10 washes. The washing of fibers and / or textile materials is carried out either by hand, according to the ISO 105 C06 AIS standard, or by machine,
13/57 according to the UNE-EN 6330: 2001 standard.
The process of this invention can be applied to the fibers of textile materials before or after their manufacture and it must be understood that the bonding to the textile materials means bonding to the fibers of the textile materials. Textile fibers can be natural or synthetic and are selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by wool, cotton, silk, nylon, cellulose, polyamide or polyester, among others. In this invention, textile materials are understood to be fabric cloths, nonwoven cloths, clothing and medical devices. Examples of fabric cloths, non-woven cloths, clothing and medical devices can be found in the literature and are known in the prior art (Impregnating Fabrics
With Microcapsules, HAPPI May 1986; J. Pharm. 2002, 242, 55 to 62; Biofunctional Textiles and the Skin Curr.
Probl. Dermatol. 2006 v.3; J. Cont. Release 2004, 97, 313 to 320). Among the textile materials preferred cloths, non-woven cloths, medical devices are bandages, gauze, tights, underwear, belts, clothing and shirts, socks, gloves, diapers, absorbents, dresses, bedspreads, scarves, hydrogels, adhesive plasters, non-adhesive plasters, microelectric plasters and / or facial masks.
In another particular modality, the active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of active ingredients and / or cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants and insect repellents. In particular, the active ingredients and / or cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants are selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by surfactants, humectants or substances that retain moisture, moisturizers or emollients, agents that stimulate healing, healing agents supporting actors, agents
14/57 stimulate re-epithelialization, supporting re-epithelialization agents, agents that synthesize dermal or epidermal macromolecules, firming and / or redensifying and / or restructuring agents, cytokine growth factors, agents that act in capillary circulation and / or microcirculation, anti-glycation agents, free radical scavengers and / or atmospheric pollution agents, reactive carbonyl scavengers, 5a-reductase inhibiting agents, lysyl- and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibiting agents, defensin-stimulating agents, bactericidal agents and / or bacteriostatic agents and / or antimicrobial agents and / or germicidal agents and / or fungicidal agents and / or fungistatic agents and / or germ inhibiting agents, antiviral agents, antiparasitic agents, antihistamine agents, NO synthase inhibiting agents, peeling agents or keratolytic agents and / or exfoliating agents, comedolytic agents, anti-psoriasis agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-inflammatory and / or analgesic agents, anesthetic agents, anti-wrinkle and / or anti-aging agents, cosmetic and / or absorbent deodorants and / or deodorants that mask body odor, antiperspirant agents, perfuming substances and / or scented oils and / or isolated aromatic compounds , antioxidant agents, agents that inhibit vascular permeability, hydrolytic epidermal enzymes, skin bleaching or depigmentation agents, agents that inhibit sweat-degrading enzymes, agents with the ability to filter UV rays, agents that stimulate or regulate keratinocyte differentiation, anti-inflammatory agents irritation, agents that stimulate or inhibit melanin synthesis, pro-pigmentation agents, self-tanning agents, agents that stimulate the proliferation of melanocytes, liquid propellants, vitamins, amino acids, proteins, biopolymers, gelling polymers,
15/57 skin relaxing agents, agents with the ability to reduce or treat dark circles, agents for the treatment and / or care of sensitive skin, astringent agents, agents that regulate sebum production, anti-stretch brand agents, lipolytic agents or agents that stimulate lipolysis, venotonic agents, anti-cellulite agents, soothing agents, agents that act on cellular metabolism, agents to improve the junction between the dermis and epidermis, agents that induce hair growth or hair loss retardants, inhibiting agents or body hair growth retardants, heat shock protein stimulants, muscle relaxants, muscle contraction inhibiting agents, agents that inhibit acetylcholine receptor aggregation, anticholinergic agents, elastase inhibiting agents, matrix metalloproteinase inhibiting agents, chelating agents , plant extracts, essential oils, marine extracts, mineral salts, extract s cell phones, emulsifying agents, agents that stimulate the synthesis of lipids and components of the stratum corneum (ceramides, fatty acids, etc.), agents obtained from a process of biofermentation and / or mixtures thereof. The nature of these active ingredients and / or cosmetic and / or food adjuvants can be synthetic or natural, such as plant extracts, or originated from a biotechnical process or a combination of a synthetic process and a biotechnical process. Additional examples can be found in the International Dictionary and Handbook of
CTFA Cosmetic Ingredients, 12th Edition (2008). In the context of this invention, a biotechnical process is understood to be any process that produces the active ingredient, or part of it, in an organism, or in a part of it.
In a particular embodiment, the humectant or substance that retains moisture, moisturizer or emollient is
16/57 a,, from the group formed as glycerin, pentylene glycol, its derivatives, selected, for example, and not restricted by polyols and polyethers such as ethylhexylglycerine, caprylylglycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, Glycereth-26; panthenol; pyroglutamic acid and its salts and derivatives; amino acids, such as serine, proline, alanine, glutamate or arginine; ectoin and its derivatives; N- (2-hydroxyethyl) acetamide; N-lauroyl-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid; N-lauroyl-L-lysine; N-alpha-benzoyl-L-arginma; urea; creatine; a- and β-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid or salicylic acid and its salts; polyglyceryl acrylate; sugars and polysaccharides, such as glucose, saccharide isomerate, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, inositol, xylitol, trehalose and derivatives thereof, sodium glucuronate, carrageenates (Chondrus crispus) or chitosan; glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof; aloe vera in any of its forms; honey; soluble collagen; lecithin and phosphatidylcholine; ceramides; cholesterol and its esters, tocopherol and its esters, such as tocopheryl acetate or tocopheryl linoleate; long-chain alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol or octadecan-2-ol; long-chain alcohol esters such as lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate or C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, fatty acids such as stearic acid, isostearic acid or palmitic acid; polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs); sorbitans such as sorbitan distearate; glycerides such as glyceryl monoricinoleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl citrate stearate or caprylic or capric acid triglyceride; sucrose esters such as sucrose palmitate or sucrose oleate; esters of
Butyleneglycol 17/57, such as Dicaprilat and Dicaprat; fatty acid esters such as isopropyl isostearate, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, di-n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, butyl myristate, isopropyl linoleate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate; squalene; mink oil; lanolin and its derivatives; acetylated laolin alcohols; silicone derivatives such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone or dimethylpolysiloxane; Antarcticine® [INCI: Pseudoalteromone Yeast Extract] or acetyl-glutamyl-methionyl-alanylisoleucine, acetyl-arginyl-phenylglycyl-phenylglycine or acetyl-arginyl-6-aminohexanoyl-alanine sold by Lipotec, petrolatum, mineral oil; mineral and synthetic waxes; beeswax (wax alba); paraffin; or waxes and oils with vegetable origins such as candelilla wax (Euphorbia cerifera), carnauba wax (Copernicia cerifera), shea butter (Butirospermum parkii), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), castor oil (Ricinus communis), oil sunflower (Helianthus annuus), olive oil (Olea europaea), coconut oil (Cocos nucifera), palm oil (Elaeis guineensis), wheat germ oil (Triticum vulgare), sweet almond oil (), musk rose (Rosa moschat a), soy oil (Glycine soy), grape seed oil (Vitis vinifera), marigold oil (Calendula officinalis), jojoba oil (Simmonsis chinensis), mango oil (Mangifera indica), avocado oil (Persea gratíssima) and / or mixtures thereof, among others.
Similarly, in another particular modality, the agent that stimulates healing, supporting healing agent, agent that stimulates reepithelization and / or agent
18/57 coadjuvant reepithelization is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by extracts of Aristoloquia clematis, Centella asiatica, Rosa moschata,
Echinacea angustifolia, Symphytum officinale, Equisetum arvense, Hypericum perforatum, Mimosa tenuiflora, Persea gratisima, Prunus africanum, Tormentilia erectea, Aloe vera,
Poliplant® Epithelizing [INCI: Calendula
Hypericum Perforatum, Chamomilla
Officinalis] marketed
Officinalis,
Rosmarinus
Provital,
Recutita, by
Cytokinol® LS 9028 [INCI: Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Lysine HC1] marketed by
Laboratories Serobiologiques / Cognis or Deliner® [INCI
Zea May Seed Extract (Maize) marketed by Coletica / Engelhard / BASF, allantoin, caherins, integrals, selectins, hyaluronic acid receptors, immunoglobulins, fibroblast growth factor, connective tissue growth factor, derived growth factor platelet, vascular endothelial growth factor, epidermal growth factor, insulin-like growth factor, keratinocyte growth factors, colony-stimulating factors, transforming beta growth factor, tumor necrosis alpha factor, interferons, interleukins, matrix metalloproteinases, receptor protein tyrosine phosphatases, Antarcticine®, [INCI: Pseudoalteromonas Yeast Extract], Decorinil® [INCI. Tripeptide-10 Citrulline], Trilagen® [INCI: Pseudoalteromone Yeast Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-1], Acetyl-glutamyl-methionyl-alanyl-isoleucine, acetyl-arginyl -phenylglycyl-phenylglycine or acetyl-arginyl-6aminohexanoyl-alanine marketed by Lipotec, among others.
In a particular modality, the agent that stimulates
19/57 the dermal or epidermal macromolecular synthesis is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by agents that stimulate collagen synthesis, agents that stimulate elastin synthesis, agents that stimulate decorin synthesis, agents that stimulate synthesis of laminin, agents that stimulate chaperone synthesis, agents that stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis, agents that stimulate aquaporin synthesis, agents that stimulate fibronectin synthesis, agents that inhibit collagen degradation, agents that inhibit elastin degradation, agents that inhibit senna proteases such as leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G, agents that stimulate fibroblast proliferation, agents that stimulate adipocyte proliferation, agents that stimulate adipocyte differentiation, agents that stimulate angiogenesis, agents that stimulate glycosaminoglycan synthesis, DNA repair agents and / or protective agents DNA, for example, and not restricted to, extracts of Centella asiatica, Saccharom yces cerevisiae, Solanum tuberosum, Rosmarinus officinalis, Vaccinium angustifolium, Macrocystis pyrifera algae extract, Padina pavonica, soy plant extract, malt, flax, sage, violet clover, kakkon-to, white lupine, hazelnut extract, corn extract , yeast extract, beech branch extract, legume seed extract, vegetable hormone extract such as gibberellins, auxins or cytokinins among others, or zooplankton extract Saline, the product of milk fermentation with Lactobacillus Bulgaricus, asiaticosidas and derivatives of them, vitamin C and derivatives thereof, cinnamic acid and derivatives thereof, Matrixil® [INCI: Palmitoil Pentapeptide-3], Matrixil® 3000 [INCI: Palmitoil Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoil Oligopeptide] or Biopeptide CL ™ [INCI: Polymethacrylate Glycerol,
Propylene Glycol, Palmitoil Oligopeptide] sold by Sederma, Antarcticine® [INCI: Yeast Extract
20/57
Pseudomonas], Decorinil® [INCI: Tripeptide-10 Citrulline],
Serilesine® [INCI: Hexapeptideo-10], Lipeptide [INCI: Hydrolyzed vegetable protein], Aldenine® [INCI: Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Tripeptide-1], AC29 peptide [INCI: Acetyl Tripeptide-30 Citrulline] , acetyl-arginyl-phenylglycyl-tryptophylphenylglycine, acetyl-arginyl-phenylglycyl-valyl-glycine or acetyl-arginyl-phenylglycyl-valyl-phenylglycine marketed by Lipotec, Drieline® PF [INCI: Yeast Betaglucan] marketed by Albanit [INCI: Aqua, Zea Mays Extract] sold by Solabia, Collalift® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Malt Extract] sold by Coletica / Engelhard, Phytocohesine® PSP [roposed INCI: BetaSitosterol Sulfate Sodium] sold by Seporga, minerals such as calcium among others, retinoids and derivatives thereof, isoflavonoids, carotenoids, particularly lycopene, pseudodipeptides, retinoids and derivatives thereof such as retinol or retinyl palmitate among others or heparinoid s among others.
In a particular embodiment, the agent that stimulates the dermal or epidermal macromolecular synthesis is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by agents that stimulate collagen synthesis, agents that stimulate elastin synthesis, agents that stimulate decorin synthesis , agents that stimulate lammin synthesis, agents that stimulate chaperone synthesis, agents that stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis, agents that stimulate aquaporin synthesis, agents that stimulate fibronectin synthesis, agents that inhibit collagen degradation, agents that inhibit collagen degradation elastin, agents that inhibit serine proteases such as leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G, agents that stimulate fibroblast proliferation, agents that stimulate adipocyte proliferation, agents that stimulate differentiation
21/57 adipocyte, angiogenesis stimulating agents, glycosaminoglycan synthesis agents, DNA repair agents and / or DNA protective agents, for example, and not restricted to, extracts of Centella asiatica, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Solanum tuberosum, Rosmarinus officinalis, Vaccinium angustifolium, Macrocystis pyrifera algae extract, Padina pavonica, soy plant extract, malt, flax, sage, violet clover, kakkon-to, hazelnut lupine, corn extract, yeast extract, extract extract beech branches, legume seed extract, vegetable hormone extract such as gibberellins, or cytokinins among others, or zooplankton extract Saline, the product of milk fermentation with Lactobacillus Bulgaricus, asiaticosides and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives of same, cinnamic acid and derivatives thereof, Matrixil® [INCI: Palmitoil Pentapeptide-3], Matrixil® 3000 [INCI: Palmitoil Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoil Oligopeptide] or Bi CL ™ opeptide [INCI: Polymethacrylate
Propylene Glycol, Palmitoil Oligopeptide] by Sederma, Antarcticine® [INCI: Pseudomonas Extract], Decorinil® [INCI: Serilesine® [INCI: Hexapeptide-10],
Hydrolyzed vegetable protein], Aldenine® wheat hydrolyzed, Tripeptide Protein-1], Peptide AC29 [INCI: Acetyl Tripeptide-30 Citrulline], acetyl-arginyl-phenylglycyl-tryptophenylglycine, acetyl-arginyl-phenylglycyl-aryl-glycine-acetyl-arylglycyl-glycine -phenylglycyl-valyl-phenylglycine marketed by Lipotec, Drieline® PF [INCI: Yeast beta-glucan] marketed by Alban Muller, Phytovitil C® [INCI; Aqua, Zea Mays Extract] sold by Solabia, Collalift® sold by Glycerol auxins, sold by Yeast
Tripeptide-10 Citrulline], Lipeptide [INCI: [INCI: Hydrolyzed soy protein,
[INCI: Hydrolyzed Malt Extract] Coletica / Engelhard, Phytocohesine® PSP
[Proposed INCI: Beta22 / 57
Sitosterol Sulfato de Sodium] marketed by Seporga, minerals such as calcium among others, retinoids and derivatives thereof, isoflavonoids, carotenoids, particularly lycopene, pseudodipeptides, retinoids and derivatives thereof, such as retinol or retinyl palmitate, among others or heparinoids, among others.
In a particular modality, the elastase inhibiting agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by Elhibin® [INCI: Glycine Soy Protein (Soy)], Preregen® [INCI: Glycine Soy Protein (soy ), Oxide Reductases] or Regu®-Age [INCI: Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Soy Protein Glycine (soy), Oxide Reductases] sold by Pentapharm / DSM, Youths [INCI: Etoxidiglycol and caprylic triglyceride, Retinol, Urselic acid , Phytonadione, Ilomastat], Micromerol [INCI. Pyrus Malus Extract], Heather Extract [INCI: Calluna Vulgaris Extract], Extracellium® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Potato Protein] or FlavagrumTM PEG [INCI: PEG-6 Isoestearate, Hesperetin Laurate] marketed by
Coletica / Engelhard / BASF, Proteasil® TP LS8657 [INCI: Pisum Sativum Extract] sold by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques / Cognis, acetyl-arginyl-phenylglycyl-triptophylphenylglycine, acetyl-arginyl-phenylglycyl-valyl-glycyl-aryl-glycyl-glycyl-aryl-glyceryl-glyceryl -phenylglycine marketed by Lipotec, Sepilift DPHP [INCI: Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline] marketed by SEPPIC, Vitaderm® [INCI: Alcohol, Water, Glycerin, Rice Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Ilex Aquifolium Extract, Sodium Ursolate, Sodium Oleanolate] Rahn, Gatuline® Age Defense 2 [INCI: Juglans Regia Seed Extract (walnut)] marketed by Gattefosse, IP 2000 [INCI: Dextran, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2] marketed by IEB and Atrium, Radicaptol [INCI: Propylene Glycol, Water, Extract
23/57
Passiflora Incarnata Flower, Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract (cassis), Vitis Vinifera Leaf Extract (grape)] sold by Solabia or ViaPureTM Boswellia [INCI: Olivanum Extract (Boswellia Serrata)] sold by
Soliance, among others.
In a particular embodiment, the matrix metalloproteinase inhibiting agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by ursolic acid, isoflavones such as genistein, quercetin, carotenoides, lycopene, soy extract, blackberry extract, rosemary extract, Trifolium pratense extract (violet clover), Phormium tenax extract (New Zealand flax), kakkon-to extract, sage extract, retinol and derivatives thereof, retinoic acid and derivatives thereof, sapogenins such as 15 diosgenin, hecogenin, smilagenin, sarsapogenin, tigogenin, yamogenin and yucagenin, among others, Collalift [INCI: Hydrolyzed Malt Extract], Juvenile [INCI: Etoxidiglycol and Caprylic Triglyceride, Retinol, Ur Urolic Acid, Fitonadione or Iloma Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract 20, Glycine Soya Seed Extract] marketed by Coletica / Engelhard, Pepha®-Timp [INCI: Human Oligopeptide-20], Regu-Age [INCI: Rice Bran Protein H idrolysate, Glycine Soy Protein, Oxido Reductases] or Colhibin [INCI: Hydrolyzed Rice Protein] 25 marketed by Pentapharm, Lipeptide [INCI: Hydrolyzed vegetable protein] or AC29 Peptide [INCI: Acetyl
Tripeptide-30 Citrulline] marketed by Lipotec,
Litchiderm ™ [INCI: Litchi Chinensis pericarp extract] or Arganil ™ [INCI: Argania Spinosa Leaf Extract] marketed by Laboratories Sérobiologiques / Cognis, MDI Complex® [INCI: glycosaminoglycans] or ECM-Protect® [INCI: Water (Aqua ), Dextran, Tripeptide-2] sold by Atrium innovations, Dakaline [INCI: Prunus amygdalus dulcis,
24/57 Anogeissus leiocarpus house extract] marketed by
Soliance, Homeostatine [INCI: Enteromorpha compressa, Caesalpinia Spinosa] marketed by Provital, Timp-Peptide [roposed INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide] or ECM Moduline [roposed INCI: Palmitoyltripeptide] marketed by Infinitec Activos, IP2000 [INCI: Dextran,
Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2] marketed by Institut Europeen de Biologie Cellulaire, Actimp 1.9.3® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein] marketed by Expanscience Laboratories, Vitaderm® [INCI: Alcohol, Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Ilex Aquifolium Extract, Sodium Ursolate, Sodium Oleanolate] marketed by Rahn, adapalene, tetracyclines and derivatives thereof such as minocycline, rolitetracycline, chlortetracycline, metacycline, oxytetracycline, doxycycline, demeclocycline and their salts, Batimastat [BB];
[4- (N-hydroxyamino) -2Risobutyl-3S- (thiophene-2-ylthiomethyl) succinyl] -L-phenylalanine-Nmethylamide], Marimastat [BB2516; [2S- [N4 (R *), 2R *, 3S]] - N4 [2,2-dimethyl-1- [methylaminocarbonyl] pro-pil] -Nl, 2-dihydroxy-3- (2-methylpropyl) butanediamide], among others.
In a particular modality, the firming and / or redensifying and / or restructuring agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by extracts of Malpighia punicitolia, Cynara scolymus, Gossypium herbaceum, Aloe Barbadensis, Panicum miliaceum, Morus nigra , Sesamum indicum, Glycine soy, Triticum vulgare, Pronalen® Refirming HSC [INCI: Triticum vulgare, Silybum Marianum, Glycine Soy, Equisetum Arvense, Alchemilla Vulgaris, Medicago Sativa, Raphanus Sativus] or Poliplant® Refirming [INCI: Conci, Fucus, Fenugreek] sold by Provital, Lanablue® [INCI: Sorbitol, Seaweed Extract]
25/57 marketed by Atrium Innovations, Pepha®-Nutrix [INCI:
Natural Nutrition Factor] marketed by Pentapharm, or plant extracts that contain isoflavones, Biopeptide EL [INCI: Palmitoil Oligopeptide], Biopeptide CL ™ [INCI:
Palmitoil Oligopeptide], Vexel® [INCI: Water (Aqua),
Propylene glycol, Lecithin, Caffeine, Palmitoil Carnitma], Matrixil® [INCI: Palmitoil Pentapeptide-3], Matrixil® 3000
[INCI: Palmitoil Tetrapeptide-3, _ TM
Protein Bio-Bustxl
Glycerin,, Palmitoil Oligopeptide] or [INCI: Glycerol Polymethacrylate, Rahnella Soybean Yeast, Water (Aqua), Propylene Glycol, PEG-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] marketed by Sederma, Dermosaccharides® HC [INCI: Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Glycosaminoglycans, Glycogen], Aglycal® [INCI: Mannitol, Cyclodextrin, Glycogen, Aratostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract], Cytokinol®LS [INCI: Hydrolyzed Barrack, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Lysine HCL] or Firmiderm® LS9120 [INCI: of Leaf of Termmalia Catappa, Black Sambucus Flower Extract, PVP, Tannic Acid] marketed by Laboratoires
Serobiologiques / Cognis, Liftline® [INCI: hydrolyzed wheat protein], Raffermine® [INCI: Hydrolyzed soy flour] or Ridulisse C® [Hydrolyzed soy protein] marketed by Silab, Serilesine® [INCI: hexapeptide-10], Decorinil ™ [INCI: Tripeptide-10 Citrulline], Trilagen® [INCI: Pseudoalteromone Yeast Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-1], marketed by Lipotec, Ursolisome [INCI: Lecithin , Ursolic Acid, Atelocolagen, Xanthan Gum, Chondroitin Sodium Sulfate] or Collalift® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Malt Extract] marketed by Coletica / Engelhard, Syn®-Coll [INCI: Palmitoil Tripeptide-5] Pentapharm, Hydriame® [INCI:
Glycosaminoglycans, Sclerode Gum] marketed by
Water (Aqua), marketed by
26/57
Atrium Innovations or IP2000 [INCI: Dextran, Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2] marketed by Institut Europeen de Biologie Cellulaire, among others.
In a particular embodiment, the anti-glycation agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by extracts of Vaccinium angustifolium, ergotionein and derivatives thereof, lysine, Aldenine® [INCI: Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Hydrolyzed soy protein , Tripeptide-1], Vilastene ™ [INCI: Lysine HC1, Lecithin, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline], dGlyage ™ [INCI: Lysine HC1, Lecithin, Tripeptide-9 Citrulline] or Eyeseril® [INCI: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5] marketed by Lipotec, hydroxystilbenes and derivatives thereof, resveratrol or
3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystylbene among others.
In a particular embodiment, the free radical scavenger and / or atmospheric antipollution agent, and / or reactive carbonyl scavenger is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by tea extract, olive leaf extract, Rosmarinus officinalis extract or Eichhornia crassipes extract, benzopyrenes, vitamin C and derivatives thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, particularly tocopherol acetate, ascorbyl glycoside, phenols and polyphenols, particularly tannins, tannic acid and ellagic acid, galocatechol, anthocyanins , chlorogenic acid, stilbenes, indoles, cysteine-containing amino acid derivatives, particularly Nacetylcysteine, ergotionein, S-carboxymethylcysteine, chelating agents, particularly EDTA or ethylene diamines, carotenoids, bioflavonoids, ubiquinone, idebenone, catalase, superoxide oxidase glutathione, benzylidene camphor, pidolates, lignans, melatonin, oryzanol, carnosine and derived from them, GHK [INCI: Tripeptide-1] and its salts and / or derivatives,
27/57
Aldenine® [INCI: Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Hydrolyzed soy protein, tripeptide-1], Preventhelia ™ [INCI: Diaminopropionoil Tripeptideo-33] or Lipochroman-6 [INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol] marketed by Lipotec, among others.
In a particular embodiment, the 5a-reductase inhibiting agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by Cinnamommum zeilanicum extract, Laminaria saccharina, Spiraea ulmaria, Nettle Root, Pygeum africanum, Avena Sat iva, Serenoa repens , extracts of Arnica montana plants, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophillata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis, Thymus vulgaricus, plant extract of the genus Silybum, plant extract containing sapogenins and particularly extract from sapogenins and particularly genus Dioscorea, retinoids and particularly retinol, sulfur and derivatives thereof, zinc salts and particularly lactate, gluconate, pidolate, carboxylate, zinc salicylate or cystate, selenium chloride, vitamin B6, pyridoxine, capryloyl glycine, sarcosine, finasteride, dutasteride , izonsteride, turosteride and their salts, among others.
Similarly, in another particular embodiment, the lysyl- and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibiting agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-oxide or 2,4-diamine 3-oxide -6-piperidinopyrimidine, among others.
In another particular modality, the defensin-stimulating agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by extracts of hydrolyzed Aloe Vera, Roast amaranth, Rehmannias radix, arnica, gardenia, carrot, orange, peach, pineapple, mint, gentian, hibiscus flower, walnut leaf, calabaza,
28/57 peony, quinoa, bilberry, sarsaparilla, sunflower, elderberry, seagrass, hydrolyzed corn, hydrolyzed soy, hydrolyzed rice, valine and its isomers and derivatives, calcium and six salts, hi-MSH and fragments contained in the sequence of α-MSH amino acids, vitamin A and its derivatives and precursors, vitamin D3 and its derivatives, jasmonic acid, fumaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, cinnamic acid, glutamic acid, succinic acid, inulin, alkyl glycosides, poly-D-glutamic acid, glycine, L-methionine, L-alanine, L-citrulline, lactoprotein, casein, lactoperoxidase, lysozyme, polyphenol, alkyl glycosides, Lactobacillus extract, extract of non-photosynthetic and sterile fusobacteria or filamentous bacteria, acetyl-glutamyl-methionyl-alanyl-isoleucine, acetyl-arginylphenylglycyl-phenylglycine or acetyl-arginyl-6-aminohexanoylalanine marketed by Lipotec, among others.
In another particular embodiment, the bactericidal and / or bacteriostatic agent and / or antimicrobial and / or germicidal agent and / or fungicidal agent and / or fungistatic agent and / or germ inhibitor is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by macrolides, pyranosides, calcium channel blockers, for example, and not restricted to, cinnarizine and diltiazem; hormones, for example, and not restricted to, strila, analogues thereof or thyroxine and / or caprylyl glycol, imidazolidinyl urea
4-hydroxybenzoate in methyl [INCI: methylparaben], 4-hydroxybenzoate in ethyl [INCI: ethyl paraben], 4-hydroxybenzoate in propyl [INCI: propylparaben], 4-hydroxybenzoate in butyl [INCI: butylparaben], 4-hydroxybenzoate in isobutyl [INCI: isobutyl paraben],
1 _z 3-bis (hydroxymethyl) -5,5-dimethylimidazolidine-2,4 dione [INCI: DMDM Hydantoin], benzyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI.
29/57 benzylparaben], benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, formic acid, propionic acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, 3-p-chlorophenoxy-1, 2 -propanediol [INCI: chlorphenenesin], dichlorobenzyl alcohol, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, benzalkonium chloride, odor-absorbing fungicides such as zinc ricinoleate, cyclodextrins, benzethonium chloride, chlorhexidine, ethanol, propanol, 1,3-butanediol , undecylenic acid, dehydroacetic acid, Nmethylmorpholine acetonitrile (MMA), isopropanol, methanol,
1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerin laurate, glycerin caprylate, glycerin caprate, benzoyl peroxide, chlorhexidine gluconate, triclosan and derivatives thereof, phenoxyethanol, terpinen-4-ol, a- terpineol, resorcinol, stiemicin, erythromycin, neomycin, clindamycin and its esters, tetracyclines, metronidazole, azelaic acid, tolnaftate, nystatin, clotrimazole, ketoconazole, zinc derivatives such as pyrithione or zinc trithate, zinc oxide and zinc oxide and zinc oxide and undecide olamine, isothiazolinones, sulfur selenium, hemiformal benzyl, boric acid, sodium borate, 6,6-dibromo-4,4-dichloro-2,2 '-methylenediphenol [INCI: bromochlorophene], 5-bromo-5-nitro-l , 3-dioxane, sodium tosylchloramide [INCI: chloramine T], chloroacetamide, p-chloro-m-cresol,
2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol [INCI: chlorophen], dimethyl oxazolidma, dodecyl dimethyl-2-phenoxyethyl ammonium bromide [INCI: domiphen bromide], 7-ethyl bicyclooxazolidine, hexetidine, glutaraldehyde,
N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N- [4-chloro-3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] -urea cloflucarban],
[INCI:
[INCI:
2-hydroxy-4-isopropyl-2,4,6-cycloheptatriene-l-one Hinocytiol], isopropylmethylphenol, mercury salts, aluminum salts, nisin, phenoxyisopropanol, o-phenylphenol, iodide
30/57
3- heptyl-2 - [(3-heptyl-4-methyl-3H-thiazol-2-ylidene) methyl] -
4- methylthiazole [INCI: Quaternium-73], silver chloride, undecylenic acid iodide, thymol, sodium, diethylenetriamineapentaacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and ethylenediaminetetraacetates, lactoperoxidase, glucose oxidase, lactoferrin, phenyl sulfates and / or mixtures thereof, benzamidines, isothiazolines, fthalimide derivatives, pyridine derivatives, guamdines, quinolines, 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane, wdo2-propylbutyl carbamate, iodine, tamed iodines, peroxo compounds, 4 chlorine -3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2 - methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol monolaurate, 3 (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol , 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), thiamine essence, eugenol, farnesol, glycerin, diglycerin monocaprinate, N-alkyl salicylic acid amides such as n-octyl salicylic acid amide or n-decyl acid amide salicylic acid, halogenated xylene derivatives and cresol, such as p-chloro-meta-cresol or p-chlorometa-xylene, extracts of Allium sativum, Calendula officinalis, Chamomilla recutita, Echinacea Purpura, Hyssopus Officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia or malaleuca oil, clove essence, menthol and mint essence, among others.
Similarly, in another particular modality, the NO inhibiting agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by extracts from the plants Vitis vinifera, Olea europaea or Gingko biloba among others.
In a particular embodiment, the peeling agent and / or keratolytic agent and / or exfoliating agent, for example, and not restricted to, the group formed by hydroxy acids and derivatives thereof, β-hydroxy acids, particularly salicylic acid and derivatives thereof, or gentisic acid; α-hydroxy acids and their salts, such as acid
31/57 glycolic acid, ammonium glycolate, lactic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, α-hydroxycaprylic acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, malic acid or tartaric acid; a- and acid such as β-hydroxybutyric acid acids;
gluconic, glucuronic acid or saccharic acid; keto such as pyruviric acid, glyoxylic acid; pyrrolidinecarboxylic; cystic acid and derivatives;
aldobionics; azelaic acid and derivatives thereof such as azeloyl; ascorbic acid and derivatives such as 6-O-palmitoylascorbic acid, ascorbyl dipalmitoylascorbic acid, magnesium salt of sodium acid of 2-diglycinate same as glycoside, ascorbic acid-2-phosphate (MAP), ascorbic (NAP), ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate esters and nicotinamide (also or vitamin PP); phosphate acid (VCIP); nicotinic acid, its vitamin B3 oligofucoses; hydroxy styrene cinnamic acid;
such as methylglycine sodium diacetate enzymes
2 nordihydroguaiarético call; urea; derivatives of jasmonic acid; resveratrol; Saccarum officinarum extract; involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, such as glycosidases, horny stratum chymotrypsin (SCCE) or other proteases such as trypsin, chymotrypsin, sutilain, papain or bromelain; chelating agents such as ethylene diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), aminosulfonic compounds such as 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1ethanesulfonic acid (HEPES) or (TRILON® M marketed by BASF); oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); sugar derivatives such as o-octanoyl-6-D-maltose acetylglucosamine; chestnut extract (Castanea sativa) that marketed by SILAB under the name Recoverine Castanea Sativa Seed Extract]; {Opuntia ficus-indica) such as that SILAB as Exfolactive® [INCI: Extract of such
Ntal how
[INCI: Water (Aqua), opuntia extract sold by
32/57
Opuntia Ficus Hydrolyzed Flower]; or Fitosfingosina SLC ° [INCI: Saliciloil Fitosfingosina] marketed by
Degussa / Evonik, Peel-Moist [INCI: Glycerin, Papain,
Calcium Pantothenate, Xanthan Gum, Caprilyl Glycol, Urea, 5 Magnesium Lactate, Ethylhexylglycerine, Potassium Lactate,
Serine, Alanine, Proline, Magnesium Chloride, Sodium Citrate]; extract or combination of extracts from Saphora japonica, papaya, pineapple, pumpkin or yam and / or mixtures thereof.
In another particular embodiment, the anti-inflammatory agent and / or analgesic agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by madecassoside extract, echinacea extract, amaranth seed oil, sandalwood oil extract peach leaf, Alce vera extract, Arnica montana, Artemisia vulgaris, Asarum maximum, Calendula officinalis, Capsicum, Centipeda cunninghamii, Chamomilla recutita, Crinum asiaticum, Hamamelis virginiana, Harpagophytum procumbens, Hypericum perforatum, Liliumvestumolia, Liliumvestum, alternum , Origanum majorana, Origanum vulgare, Prunus laurocerasus, Rosmarinus officialis, Salix alba, Silybum marianum, Tanacetum parthenium, Thymus vulgaris, Uncaria guianensis or Vaccinum myrtillus, mometassone furoate, prednisolone, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs and lipid inhibitors , acetylsalicylic acid, rosmarinic acid, ursolic acid, glycyrrhi derivatives zinate, α-bisabolol, azulene and analogues, sericoside, ruscogenin, escin, scoline, rutin and analogues, hydrocortisone, clobetasol, dexamethasone, prednisone, choline, magnesium, bromfenac, paracetamol, amoxyprine, benorilate, salicylate, flamethyls, salicylate fams salsalate salicylate, diclofenac, aceclofenac, acemetacin, etodolac, indomethacin, oxamethacin,
33/57 proglumetacin, sulindac, tolmetin, ibuprofen, dexibuprofen, carprofen, fenbufen, fenoprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, dexcetoprofen, ketorolac, loxoprofen, pranoprofen, mefenamic, flufenamine, azapropoxen, thiapropene, oxazpro meclofenamic acid, tolfenamic acid acid, nabumetone, phenylbutazone, clofezone, cebuzone, metamizole, mofebutazone, oxyphenbutazone, lornoxicam, lumiracoxib, sulfinpyrazone, meloxicam, tenoxicam, celecoxibibox, paracetamone, pirazone, pirazone, pirazone lycophelone, naproxcinod, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, morphine, codeine, oxycodone, diamorphine, pethidine, tramadol, chloroprocaine, amitriptyline, carbamazepine,
TM bisabolol, Neutrazen
Palmitoil Tripeptideo-8]
Innovations / Unipex Group, Meliprene® [INCI: Dextran, Acetyl
Européen de [INCI: Acetyl bupenorphine, lidocaine, tetracaine, hydrocodone, benzocaine, proccaine, pregabalin, gabapentin,
[INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Dextran, marketed by Atrium
Heptapeptide-1] marketed by Institut,. -. TM
Biologie Cellulaire / Unipex Group, Skinasensil • η TM Tetrapeptide-15] or Anasensil Ammonium, Caffeine, Extract
[INCI: Mannitol,
Hippocastanum
Glycyrrhizate (nut-marketed by
-, · TM
Calmosensine India)]
Serobiologiques / Cognis,
Dipeptide-1] marketed by Sederma,
Laboratoires
[INCI:
Acetyl coenzyme Q10 or alkyl glycerin esters.
Additionally, in another particular modality, the bleaching or depigmentation agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by extracts of Achillea millefolium, Aloe vera, Aradirachta indica, Asmuna japonica, Autocarpus incisus, Bidens pilosa, Broussonetia papyrifera , Chlorella vulgaris, Cimicifuga racemosa, Emblica
34/57 officinalis, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Ilex purpurea, Ligusticum lucidum, Ligusticum wallichii, Mitracarpus scaber, Morinda citrifolia, Morus alba, Morus bombycis, Naringi crenulata, Prunus domesticus, crispus, Rexus, Indian, Saxifragia sarmentosa, Scutellaria Galericulate, Sedum sarmentosum Bunge, Stellaria medica, Triticum Vulgare, Uva ursi or Whitania somnifera, flavonoids, soy extract, lemon extract, orange extract, ginkgo extract, cucumber extract, geranium extract, extract gaiúba, carob extract, cinnamon extract, marjoram extract, rosemary extract, clove extract, soluble licorice extract or blackberry leaf extract, Lipochroman-6 [INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Cromanol] or Chromabright ™ [ INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Cromanyl Palmitate] marketed by Lipotec, ActiwhiteTM LS9808 [INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Sucrose Dilaurate, Polysorbate 20, extract of Pisum sativum (Er (Dermawhite® NF LS9410) [INCI: Mannitol, Arginine HC1, Phenylalanine, EDTA Disodium, Sodium Citrate, Cojic Acid, Citric Acid, Yeast Extract] marketed by Laboratoires Serobiologiques / Cognis, Lumiskin ™ [INCI: Tricpriclicide , DiacetylBoldine], Melaclear ™ [INCI: Glycerin, Aqua,
Dithiaoctanediol, Gluconic acid, Sutilaines, Betacarotene], _ * TM O.D.A.white ™ [INCI: octadecendioic acid] or Etioline [INCI: Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Leaf extract
Arctostaphilos uva ursi, Mitracarpus scaber extract] marketed by Sederma, SepiwhiteTM MSH [INCI:
Undecyleneil Phenylalanine] sold by Seppic, Achromaxil [INCI: Aqua, Brassica napus Extract] sold by Vincience, Gigawhite [INCI. Aqua, Glycerin, Malva silvestris (Malva) Extract, Mentha piperita Leaf Extract, Primula veris Extract, Extract
35/57 Alchemilla vulgaris, Veronica officinalis Extract, Melissa officinalis Leaf Extract, Achillea millefolium Extract], Melawhite® [INCI: Leukocyte Extract, AHA] or Melfade®-J [INCI: Aqua, Leaf Extract Arctostaphilos uva-ursi Leaf, Glycerin, Ascorbyl Magnesium Phosphate] sold by Pentapharm, Albatin® [INCI: Aminoethylphosphoric Acid, Butyleneglycol, Aqua] sold by Exsymol, TyrostatTM-11 [INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Rumexate Extract] ° -5 [INCI: Dextran, Nonapeptide-1] sold by Atrium Innovations, arbutin and its isomers, cojic acid and derivatives thereof, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof such as 6-0 palmitoylascorbic acid, ascorbyl glycoside, dipalmitoylascorbic acid, salt of salt ascorbic acid-2-phosphate magnesium (MAP), ascorbic acid-2-phosphate sodium salt (NAP), ascorbyl glycoside or ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (VCIP); retinol and derivatives thereof, including tretmoma and isotretinoin, idebenone, hydroxybenzoic acid and derivatives thereof, niacinamide, liquiritine, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, hydroquinone, α-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, azelaic acid, azelayl diglicinate, resveratrol, linoleic acid , α-lipoic acid, dihydrolipoic acid, hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, elagic acid, ferulic acid, cinnamic acid, oleanolic acid, aloesin and its derivatives and / or serine protease inhibitors, for example, and not restricted to, tryptase inhibitors , trypsin or PAR-2, among others.
In another particular modality, the melanin synthesis stimulating agent, pro-pigmentation agent, self-tanning self-agent and / or melanocyte proliferating stimulating agent is selected is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by extracts of Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit, Coleus forskohlii, Coleus
36/57
Esquirolii, Coleus Scutellariodes, Coleus Xanthanthus, Ballota nigra, Ballota lanata, Ballota suavelens, Marrubium cilleneum, Cistus creticus, Amphiachyris amoena, Aster oharai, Otostegia fruticosa, Plectranthus barbatus, Halimium viscosum, larimice viscosum e larixice viscosum e larixice viscosum e larixice viscosum e larixice viscosum e larixice porcosy example, and not restricted to, erutrulose, melanin and derivatives thereof including melanin polymers and low molecular weight melanin derivatives that are soluble in water, forskolin and derivatives thereof including deacetylforscoline and isoforscholine, tyrosine and derivatives thereof including acetyl tyrosine , oleoyl tyrosine, 3-ammo tyrosine and 3-nitrotyrosine, copper salts such as CuCl ₂ , carotenoids, canthaxanthines, dihydroxundol carboxylic acid polymers, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3-amino-4hydroxybenzoic acid, aloine, emodine, alizarin , dihydroxyphenylalanine, 4,5-dihydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 3-dimethylaminophenol or p-aminobenzoic acid, Melatime ™ [INCI: Ace til Tripeptide-40] sold by Lipotec, Heliostatine IS ™ [INCI: Pisum Sativum Extract] sold by Vincience / ISP, Vegetan [IN Dihydroxyacetone] or Vegetan Premium [INCI: Dihydroxyacetone, Melanin] sold by Soliance, MelanoBronze [INCI: Extract Vitex Agnus Castus, Acetyl Tyrosine] sold by Mibelle Biochemistry, Melitane® [INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-1] sold by Institut Europeen de Biologie Cellulaire / Unipex Innovations, Actibronze® [INCI: Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Acetyl Tyrosine, Copper Gluconate ] or Instabronze® [INCI: Dihydroxyacetone, Tyrosine] marketed by Alban Muller, Thalitan [INCI. Hydrolyzed Algine, Magnesium Sulphate, Manganese Sulphate] marketed by CODIF, Tyrosilane® [INCI: Methylsilanol Acetiltirosina] sold by Exsymol, Tyr-Excel [INCI: Oleoil Tirosina, Luffa Cylindrical Seed Oil,
37/57
Oleic Acid] or Tir-01 [INCI: Oleoil Tyrosine, Butylene Glycol, Oleic Acid] sold by Sederma / Croda, Bronzing SF [roposed INCI: Butyryl Pentapeptide] sold by Infinitec Activos or Biotanning® [INCI: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract Hydrolyzate] sold by Silab, among others.
In a particular modality, the anti-wrinkle and / or anti-aging agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by extracts of Vitis vinifera, Rosa canina, Curcuma longa, Iris pallida, Theobroma cacao, Ginkgo biloba, Leontopodium Alpinum or Dunaliella salina, Matrixil® [INCI: Palmitoil Pentapeptide-4], Matrixil® 3000® [INCI: Palmitoil Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoil Oligopeptide], Essenskin ™ [INCI: calcium hydroxyethionine], Renovage or Dermaxil®
Palmitoil
[INCI: teprenone] or Dermaxil ^ ⁹ [INCI:
Oligopeptide] sold by Sederma, Vialox® [INCI: Pentapeptide-3], Syn®-Ake® [INCI: Benzylamide Diaminobutiroil Dipeptide Diacetate], Syn®-Coll [INCI: Palmitoil
Tripeptide-5], Fitaluronate [INCI: Locust bean gum (Ceratonia Siliqua)] or Preregen® [INCI: Glycine Oxide Reductases Protein] marketed by • η TM Myoxinol
Esculentus Hidrolisado],,. TM
Tetrapeptide-11], Dermican
Soy extract (Soy), Pentapharm / DSM, or DN-AGETM LS [INCI:
marketed by
[INCI: Hibiscus Extract
Acetyl
Syniorage ™ [INCI:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9] Cassia Alata leaf] Sérobiologiques / Cognis, from Methylsilanol]
[INCI:
Laboratoires
Manuronate
Algisum C® [INCI:
Hydroxyprolysilane CN® marketed
Hydroxyproline]
[INCI: Acetyl
Heptapeptide-4],
Leuphasil® [INCI:
Hydrolyzed wheat protein, or
[INCI: Methylsilanol aspartate by Exsymol, Argireline® Hexapeptide-8], SNAP-7 [INCI: Acetyl
SNAP-8 [INCI: Acetyl Octapeptideo-3],
Pentapeptide-18], Aldenine® [INCI:
Hydrolyzed soy protein,
38/57 tripeptide-1], Preventhelia ™ [INCI: Diaminopropionoil Tripeptide-33], Decorinil ™ [INCI: Tripeptide-10 Citrulline], Trilagen® [INCI: Pseudoalteromone yeast extract, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Hydrolyzed soy protein , Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-1], Eyeseril® [INCI Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5], Peptide AC29 [INCI: Acetyl Tripeptide-30 Citrulline], Lipochroman-6 [INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol] or Chromabright ™ [INCI: Palmitate Dimethylmethoxy Cromanyl], Antarcticine® [INCI: Pseudoalteromone Yeast Extract], Vilastene ™ [INCI: Lysine HCI, Lecithin, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline], dGlyage [INCI: Lysine HCI, Lecithin, Tripeptide-9 Citrulline], acetylilyl-phenylglycine -triptophyll-phenylglycine, acetyl-argimylphenylglycyl-valyl-glycine or acetyl-arginyl-phenylglycylvalyl-phenylglycine, Iniline ™ [INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptideo-30] marketed by Lipotec, Kollaren® [INCI: Tripeptideo-1, commercialized by Dextrano] from Biologie Cellulaire, Collax il® IS [INCI: Hexapeptideo-9], Laminixil IS ™ [INCI: Heptapeptideo], Orsirtine ™ GL [INCI: Oryza Sativa Extract (Rice)], DOrientine ™ IS [INCI: Phoenix Dactilifera Seed Extract (Date) ], Phytoquintescine [INCI: Einkorn Extract (Triticum Monococcum)] or
Quintescine ™ IS [INCI: Dipeptide-4] marketed by Vincience / ISP, BONT-L-Peptide [INCI: Palmitoil Hexapeptideo19] marketed by Infinitec Activos, Deepaline P [INCI: Wheat protein hydrolyzed by palmitoyl] or Sepilift® DPHP [INCI : Dipalmitoil hydroxyproline] sold by Seppic, Gatuline® Expression [INCI:
Acmella oleracea Extract], Gatuline® In-Tense [INCI: Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract] or Gatuline® Age Defense 2 [INCI: Juglans Regia Seed Extract (walnut)] marketed by Gattefossé, Thalassine ™ [INCI: Extract
Algae TM] sold by Biotechmarine, ChroNOlme
39/57
[INCI: Caprooil Tetrapeptideo-3] or Thimuleno-4 [INCI: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2] sold by Atrium Innovations / Unipex Group, EquiStat [INCI: Fruit Extract from
Pyrus Mãlus, Glycine Soybean Extract] or Juvenesce [INCI: Etoxidiglycol and caprylic triglyceride, Retinol, Ursolic Acid, Phytonadione, Ilomastat], marketed by Coletica, Ameliox [INCI: Carnosine, Tocoferol, Marian Fruit Extract] PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica [INCI: Fruit Cell Culture of Malus Domestica] marketed by Mibelle Biochemistry, Bioxilift [INCI; Pimpinella Anisum Extract] or SMS Anti-Wrinkle® [INCI: Annona Squamosa Seed Extract] marketed by Silab, Ca ²⁺ channel blockers, for example, and not restricted to, alverine, manganese or magnesium salts, certain secondary and tertiary amines, retinol and derivatives thereof, resveratrol, idebenone, coenzyme Q10 and derivatives thereof, boswellic acid and derivatives thereof, GHK and derivatives thereof and / or salts, carnosine and derivatives thereof, DNA repair enzymes, for example, and not restricted to, photoliase or T4 endonuclease V, or chlorine channel blockers, among others.
In a particular embodiment, the lipolytic agent or agent that stimulates lipolysis, venotonic agent and / or anti-cellulite agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by extracts of Bupleurum Chinensis, Cecropia Obtusifolia, Celosia Cristata, Centella Asiatics , Chenopodium Quinoa, Chrysanthellum Indicum, Citrus Aurantium Amara, Coffea Arabica, Coleus Forskohlii, Commiphora Myrrha, Crithmum Maritimum, Eugenia Caryophillus, Ginkgo Biloba, Hedera Helix (extract of era), Hibiscus Sabdariffiisumum, Ilex Paria, Ilex Cupana, Peumus Boldus, Phillacantha Fibrosa, Prunella Vulgaris, Prunus Amygdalus
40/57
Dulcis, Ruscus Aculeatus (Butcherbroom extract), Sambucus Nigra, Spirulina Platensis Algae, Uncaria Tomentosa or Verbena Officinalis, dihydromyricetin, coenzyme A, lipase, glaucine, esculin, visnadine, Regu®-Shape [INCI, Glycine, Lysine Polysorbate 80] marketed by Pentapharm / DSM, UCPeptide ™ V [INCI:
Pentapeptideo] or AT Peptide ™ IS [INCI: Tripeptideo-3] marketed by Vincience / ISP, Liporeductil® [INCI:
Caffeine, Gilbardeira Root Extract (Ruscus Aculeatus), TEA-Hydroiodide, Carnitine, Ivy Extract (Hedera Helix), Escina, Tripeptideo-1] sold by Lipotec, Adiposlim [INCI: Sorbitano Laurate, Lauroil Prolina] sold by SEPPIC , caffeine, carnitine, escine iodide and / or triethanolamine, among others.
In a particular embodiment, the heat shock protein synthesis stimulating agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by extracts of Opuntia ficus indica, Salix alba, Lupinus spp., Secale cereale, red algae extracts of the genus Porphyra, crustacean extracts of the genus Artemia, jojoba seed oil, grape seed extracts, green tea extracts, geranylgeranilacetone, celastrol, zinc and its salts, 2cyclopenten-l-one, proteasome inhibitors, for example, and not restricted to, bortezomib; prostaglandins and derivatives thereof, hydroxylamine and derivatives thereof, for example, and not restricted to, bimoclomol; chalcone and derivatives thereof, hyperosmotic agents, for example, and not restricted to, sorbitol and derivatives thereof, mannitol and derivatives thereof, glycerol and derivatives thereof, isosorbide, urea or salicylic acid and derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof of the same.
In a particular embodiment, the hair growth inducing or hair loss retardant agent is
41/57 selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by the extracts of Tussilago farfara or Achillea millefolium, nicotinic acid esters such as C ₃ -C ₆ alkyl nicotinates such as methyl or hexyl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate , or tocopheryl nicotinate; biotin, 5a-reductase inhibitory agents, anti-inflammatory agents, retinoids, for example, and not restricted to, All-transretinoic acid or tretinoin, isotretinoin, retinol or vitamin A, and derivatives thereof, such as acetate, palmitate, propionate , motretinide, etretinate and zinc salt of trans-retinoic acid; antibacterial agents, calcium channel blockers, for example, and not restricted to, cinnarizine and diltiazem; hormones, for example, and not restricted to, estriol, its analogs or thyroxine, its analogs and / or salts; antiandrogenic agents, for example, and not restricted to, oxendolone, spironolactone or dietilstylbestrol; antiradical agents, esterified oligosaccharides, for example, and not restricted to, those described in EP 0211610 and EP 0064012; derivatives of hexasaccharide acids, for example, and not restricted to, glucose-saccharide acid or those described in EP 0375388; glucosidase inhibitors, for example, and not restricted to, D-glucaro-1,5-lactam or those described in EP 0334586; glycosammoglycanase and proteoglycanase inhibitors, for example, and not restricted to L-galactone 1,4-lactone or those described in EP 0277428; tyrosine kinase inhibitors, for example, and not restricted to, 1-starch-1-cyano (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) ethylene or those described in EP 0403238, diazoxides, for example, and not restricted to, 7- (acetylthio ) -4 ', 5'-dihydrospiro [androst-4eno-17,2' - (3H) furan] -3-one, 3-methyl-7 chlorine 1,1-dioxide [2H] -1,2,4- benzothiadiazine or spirooxazine;
phospholipids, for example, and not restricted to, lecithin; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof, hydroxycarboxylic acid or
42/57 carboxylic keto and esters thereof, lactones and their salts; anthralin, eicosis-5,8,11-trienoic acids and esters thereof or amides among others, minoxidyl and derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof.
In another particular embodiment, the body hair growth inhibiting or inhibiting agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by activin or activin agonists, flavonoids such as quercetin, curcumin, galangine, fisetin, miricetin, apigenin; propyl gamma, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, caffeic acid, tyrosine kinase inhibitors such as lavendustine, erbstatin, typhostins, benzoquinone-ansamycin herbimycin A, thiazolidinediones, phenazocine, 2,3-dihydro-2-thioxolH-indole-3-alkanoic acids, derivatives phenothiazine such as thioridazine; sphingosine and derivatives thereof, staurosporine and derivatives thereof, glycyrrhetinic acid, lauryl isoquinoline bromide, Decelerine ™ [INCI: Lauryl Isoquinolium bromide, Pseudoalteromone yeast extract] marketed by Lipotec or serine protease inhibitors, trypsin and / or mixtures of the same.
In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic and / or absorbent deodorant and / or that masks body odor and / or antiperspirant agent, perfuming substance and / or perfumed oil is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by the salt of complex zinc of ricinoleic acid, storaque, abiotic acid derivatives, sage essence, chamomile essence, clove essence, lemongrass essence, mint essence, cinnamon leaf essence, lime flower essence, grain essence juniper, vetiver essence, frankincense essence, galbanum essence, rockrose essence, lavender essence, mint essence, bergamot orange, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, liral, citronellol, lemon essence, mandarin essence,
43/57 orange essence, lavender essence, muscatel, bourbon geranium essence, anise seed, cilantro, cumina, juniper, lily flower extracts, lilac, roses, jasmine, lime flower; benzyl acetate, p-tertbutylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, cyclohexyl allyl propionate, styryl propionate, benzyl salicylate, benzyl ethyl ether, linear ether from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, ricinoleic acid, citronelal, citronelil oxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronelal, bourgeonal, lononas, methyl cedril ketone, anethole, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, terpineol, hexylenol, hexylenol, hexylenol, hexylenol, hexylenol, hexylenol, hexylenol , benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, Boisambrene Forte®, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, ciclovertal, β-damascone, allyl amyl glycolate, dihydromyrcenol, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Isoil-Super, Isoil-E , phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, romillat, irotyl, floramato, active astringent products such as aluminum chloride, aluminum hydrochloride, dichloride aluminum ohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum hydroxyalanthinate, aluminum chlorotartrate, aluminum and zirconium trihydrochloride, aluminum and zirconium tetrachloride, aluminum and zirconium pentachloride and / or mixtures thereof.
In a particular embodiment, the antioxidant is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group consisting of butylhydroxytoluene (BHT), butylhydroxyanisol (BHA), tert-butylhydroquinone (TBHQ), 2,6, -di-tert-butyl- 4methylphenol, gallic acid esters such as propylate, probucol, polyphenols, ascorbic acid and its salts, enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase and
44/57 peroxidases; citric acid, citrates, monoglyceride esters, calcium metabisulfate, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, vitamin A or βcarotene, vitamins E and C, tocopherols such as vitamin E acetate, ascorbic acid esters such as ascorbic acid palmitate ascorbyl and ascorbyl acetate, zinc, copper, mannitol, reduced glutathione, carotenoids such as cryptoxanthin, astaxanthin and lycopene; cysteine, uric acid, carnitine, taurine, tyrosine, lutein, zeaxanthin, N-acetyl-cysteine, carnosine, γ-glutamylcysteine, quercetin, lactoferrin, dihydrolipoic acid, tea catechins, retinyl palmitate and derivatives thereof, metabisulfate, metabissulfate sodium sulfite, chromans, chromenes and their analogs, Lipochroman-6 [INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol], metal chelating agents such as EDTA, sorbitol, phosphoric acid or dGlyage ™ [INCI: Lysine HC1, Lecithin, Tripeptide-9 Citrulline]; Ginkgo Biloba extract, plant extracts such as sage, pomegranate, rosemary, oregano, ginger, marjoram, blackberry, tomato, green tea or black tea; oleoresin extract, plant extract containing phenols such as vanilla, ellagic acid and resveratrol; tertiary butylhydroquinone or mixtures thereof, metal salts with a valence of 2 such as selenium, cadmium, vanadium or zinc; α-lipoic acid, coenzyme Q, idebenone or derivatives thereof.
In a particular embodiment, the sweat-degrading enzyme inhibiting agent is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group consisting of trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate or citrate triethyl; lanosterine sulfate or phosphate, cholesterin, campesterma, stigmasterine and esitosterine; dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate,
45/57 diethyl adipate; malic hydroxycarboxylic acids, tartaric or malonic acid and diethyl malonate, and their esters such as diethyl tartrate acid, zinc glycinate and / or mixtures thereof.
In another particular embodiment, the agent capable of filtering UV rays is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by organic photoprotective agents or active minerals against ultraviolet A and / or B rays such as substituted benzotriazoles, substituted diphenylacrylates , organic nickel complexes, umbelliferone, urocanic acid, biphenyl derivatives, stilbene, 3-benzylidene camphor and derivatives thereof such as 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; derivatives of 4-aminobenzoic acid,
2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; cinnamic acid esters, such as 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate or diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl (octocrylenes) 2-cyano-3,3-phenyl cinnamate; esters of salicylic acid, such as 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomentyl salicylate; benzophenone derivatives, such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dndroxy-4methoxybenzophenone; benzalmalonic acid esters, such as di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate, triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianiline, p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 hexyloxy-1,3,5-triazine , octyl triazone or dioctyl butamido triazones; propane-1,3-diones, such as 1- (4-tert butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; derivatives of ketotriciclo (5.2.1.0) decane; 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 sulfonic acid; derivatives of benzophenone sulfonic acid, such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
46/57 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, benzoyl methane derivatives, such as benzoyl methane 2-methyl-5 (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid, such as l- (4 ' -tertbutylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tertbutyl-4 ^1- methoxydibenzoylmethane, 1-phenyl-3- (4 ¹ isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, compounds enamine, anthranilates, silicon, benzimidazole derivatives, imidazolines, benzoyl derivatives, Chromabright [INCI. Dimethylmethoxy Cromanyl Palmitate] or Preventhelia ™ [INCI: Diaminopropionoil Tripeptide-33] both marketed by Lipotec, metal oxides such as zinc oxide, titanium, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium; silicates, talc, barium sulfate, zinc stearate, carbon nanotubes and / or mixtures thereof.
In addition, in another particular embodiment, the agent that stimulates or regulates keratinocyte differentiation is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by minerals such as calcium, retinoids such as retinol or tretinoin, vitamin D3 analogs such as calcitriol , calcipotriol or tacalcitol, lupine extract (Lupinus albus) such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Structurin® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein], β-sitosterol sulfate, such as that marketed by Vincience / ISP under the name Phytocohesine PSP® [INCI: Sodium Beta-Sitosterol Sulfate], maize extract (Zea Mays) such as that sold by Solabia under the name Phytovitil C [INCI: Water (Aqua), Zea Mays Extract], glycoconjugates from Helix Aspersa Müller and / or mixtures thereof.
Similarly, in another particular modality, the muscle relaxant, agent that inhibits muscle contraction, agent that inhibits acetylcholine receptor group and / or anticholinergic agent is selected, for example, and not
47/57 restricted to, of the group formed by extracts of Atropa belladonna, Hyoscyamus niger, Mandragora officinarum,
Chondodendron tomentosum, plants of the genus Brugmansia or of the genus Datura, toxin of Clostridium botulinum, peptides derived from the protein SNAP-25 or Iniline ™ [INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-30] marketed by Lipotec, baclofen, carbidopa, levodopa, bromocriptine, chlorfoxin, chlorzoxazone , donepezil, mefenoxalone, reserpine, tetrabenazine, dantrolene, thiocolcicoside, tizanidine, clonidine, procyclidine, glycopyrrolate, atropine, hyoscyamine, benztropine, scopolamine, promethazine, diphenhydramine, dimenhydrinate, cyclohexine, cyclophaginine, dicycline , tiotropium, trihexiphenidyl, tolterodine, tropicamide, solifenacin, darifenacin, mebeverine, trimethane, atracurium, cisatracurium, doxacurium, fazadínio, metocurine, mivacirio, pancuronium, pipecuronium, rapacuronium, tubocuranuron, tubocuranuron, tubocuranuron, tubocuranurium, tubocuranone carisoprodol, febarbamate, meprobamate, metocarbamol, fenprob amato, tibamate, anticonvulsant agents such as levetiracetam, stiripentol, phenobarbital, methylphenobarbital, pentobarbital, metarbital, barbexaclone, pyrimidone, carbamazepine, oxcarbazepine, benzodiazepines, for example, and not restricted to, cloxazazamzamide, floxazazam midazolam, nitrazepam, nimetazepam, fenazepam, temazepam, tetrazepam or clobazam, among others.
In another particular embodiment, the active ingredient is an insect repellent and is selected, for example, and not restricted to, from the group formed by DEET (N, N-diethyl-metatoluamide), ethyl hexanediol, dihydro-nepetalactone or a mixture of stereoisomers of dihydronepetalactone, 3-methylbutanal, 2-methylbutanal, hydroxy or amino methylbutanal
48/57 replaced; valeraldehyde and trans-pentenal, fenvalerate, esfenvalerate, IS, 3S, 4S, 6R-careno-3,4-diol, pyridine-2,5dicarboxylate, dipropyl, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyvinyl fluoride and vinylidene fluoride, dimethylsiloxane, polyvinyl chloride vinylidene chloride, phthalic acid, dimethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, polyethylene terephthalate, indalone (butyl-3,3-dihydro-2,2-dimethyl-4-oxo-2Hpiran-6-carboxylate), turmeric (Curcuma longa ), bicyclic iridoid lactones, iridomirmecin pheromones, sulfur, Epsom salts (hydrated calcium sulfate), pyrethrum or Dalmatian chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium), lemongrass (Cymbopogon nardus), linalila acetate, 1-limonene, cineol, cineol, Eugenyl acetate, piperidines such as picaridin or bairepel (1-piperidinecarboxylic acid, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester) and their stereoisomers, I_ (3-cyclohexen-1-yl-carbonyl) -2-methylpiperidine ^and its stereoisomers, or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate, 1 (3-cyclohexene -l-yl-carbonyl) piperidine, isoiridomirmecin, 2,3,4,5-bis (2-butylene) tetrahydrofurfural, polypropylene glycol butoxy, N-butylacetanilide, dibutyl adipate, di-n-butyl succinate, dedimethyl carbate ( Endo, endo) dimethyl-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-5-ene-2,3-dicarboxylate, 2-ethyl-2-butyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, propyl isocincomeronate, 2-phenylcyclohexanol, normal-propyl Ν, Ν-diethyl succinamate, butyl mesityl oxide, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, N, N-diethylbenzamide, p-methane-3,8diol, n, N-diethylmandelamide , isopulegol hydrate, ethyl-3- [Nn-butyl-N-acetyl] aminopropionate, diisopropyl adipate, alpha-biasabal, benzyl alcohol, Ν, Ν-diethyl phenylacetamide, vitamin E, 3-acetyl- 2- (2,6 (2 dimethyl-5-heptenyl) oxazolidine hydroxymethylcyclohexyl) acetic, teflutrin, permethrin, cypermethrin, cyhalothrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, bifentin,
49/57 deltamethrin, halibut or anethole oil (Bixa orellana), leaves and lemon fruit (Citrus medica), almond oil, anise oil, basil oil, laurel oil, cumin seed oil, cardamom oil , cedar oil, celery oil, chamomile oil, mint oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, clove oil, coriander oil, cumin oil, dill oil, eucalyptus oil, oil fennel oil, ginger oil, grape oil, lemon oil, peppermint oil, parsley oil, catfish oil, pepper oil, rose oil, mint oil (menthol), sweet orange oil, oil coconut oil, cedar oil, geraniol, geranium oil, garlic oil and turmeric oil.
It has previously been described that the colloids used in the first stage of the process of this invention are hydrophilic and in order to dissolve them, the solvent must also be hydrophilic, such as water or an aqueous solution, as previously described. The active ingredient or ingredients must be suspended in this solvent, as described in step a) of the process of the invention. However, this invention is not limited to lipophilic active ingredients suspended in a hydrophilic solvent. In a particular embodiment, in the case of hydrophilic active ingredients, the active ingredient is emulsified in a water-in-oil emulsion, W / O emulsion and suspended in step a). In another particular embodiment, this W / O emulsion that contains an active ingredient that is contained in its turn in a solid lipid nanoparticle, SLN, or in a nanostructured lipid carrier, NLC, which is suspended in step a) of the process invention.
A second aspect of this invention concerns the fiber and / or textile material obtained according to the process of the invention. In this invention, textile materials are understood to be fabric cloths, non-woven cloths, clothing
50/57 and medical devices. Among the textile materials, the preferred fabric cloths, non-woven cloths, clothing and medical devices are bandages, gauze, shirts, socks, tights, underwear, straps, gloves, diapers, absorbents, dresses, bedspreads, scarves, hydrogels , adhesive plasters, non-adhesive plasters, microelectric plasters and / or facial masks.
A third aspect of this invention relates to the use of fibers and / or textile materials obtained according to the process of the invention for the treatment and / or care of the skin, hair and / or scalp. Preferably, the treatment and / or care of the skin, hair and / or scalp is selected from the group formed by the treatment and / or prevention of skin aging, scarring of the skin and / or scalp, dermatological treatment of skin diseases, treatment and / or prevention of cellulite, tanning of the skin, color lighting or whitening of the skin and treatment and / or prevention of hair loss.
In the context of this invention, the term aging refers to the changes suffered by the skin with age (aging) or due to exposure to the sun (photoaging) or to environmental agents such as tobacco smoke, extreme cold or windy conditions, pollutants chemicals or pollution and includes all visible external changes as well as those noticeable by touch, for example, and not restricted to, the development of discontinuities in the skin such as wrinkles, fine lines, furrows, irregularities or roughness, increased pore size, loss of elasticity, loss of firmness, loss of softness, loss of ability to recover from deformation, sagging skin such as sagging cheeks, the appearance of dark circles or the appearance of a double chin, among others, changes in skin color such as marks, redness,
51/57 dark circles, appearance of hyperpigmented areas such as age spots or freckles among others, anomalous differentiation, hyperkeratinization, elastosis, keratosis, hair loss, rough-looking skin, loss of collagen structure and other histological changes in the stratum corneum, the dermis, epidermis, vascular system (for example, the appearance of spider veins or telangiectasia) or tissues close to the skin, among others.
The following specific examples provided in the present invention serve to illustrate the nature of this invention. These examples are included for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limitations on the invention claimed herein.
DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
Figure 1: Figure 1 shows photographs by scanning an electron microscope using a treated polyamide cloth, example 6, to which the microcapsules of example 4 were bonded by application of a fula. Part a) is an untreated polyamide, part b) a polyamide after 0 washes, part c) a polyamide after 5 washes.
EXAMPLES
General Methodology
All reagents and solvents are of synthetic quality and are used without further treatment.
EXAMPLE 1
Obtain cationized microcapsules containing Chromabright ™ with polyquaternium-16
Carboxymethylcellulose was dissolved in water (phase B). Then, gelatin was dissolved in water (phase A) with stirring for 15 minutes and phase A was raised to the boiling point. The bath was inserted at 75 ° C and phase B was added to phase A and it was ensured that the temperature did not fall below 60 ° C and that the pH of the mixture was between 5
52/57 and 5.5. The components for phase C were added under maximum agitation and at a temperature above 60 ° C. The pH was slowly lowered with the phase D components until it was left at approximately 4.43. It was stirred for 30 minutes and the pH was measured (4.42). The mixture was allowed to cool while stirring for 2 hours and in half the pH was measured (4.55) and was adjusted to 4.44 with phase D components. The pH was raised to 7.5 with the addition of the phase E, and later phase F components were added, a crosslinker diluted and stirred all night. The next day, G was added as a cationic polymer and was stirred for 3 hours.
INGREDIENT (INCI Nomenclature) _____ % BY WEIGHT THE GELATINE (150B 30/40) 2.4 THE AQUA (WATER) q.s.p. 100 B CELLULOSE GUM 0.6 B AQUA (WATER) 35.1 Ç BETACAROTENE 1.00 ç DIMETHYLMETOXI CHROMANILE PALMITATE 1.00 Ç MINERAL OIL (PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM) 8.00 D CITRIC ACID 0.15 D AQUA (WATER) 0.35 AND SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.09 AND AQUA (WATER) 0.21 F GLUTARAL 0.50 F AQUA (WATER) 15.0 G POLYQUATERNON-16 15.0
EXAMPLE 2
Obtain cationized microcapsules that
Iniline ™ with polyquaternium-16
First Iniline ™ [INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-30] was dissolved in water and alcohol (phase C). Phase C was added to phase D little by little with stirring. These two phases together were added to the soybean oil (phase E). Later carboxymethylcellulose was dissolved in water (phase B). Then, gelatin was dissolved in water (phase A) and stirred for 15 minutes and phase A was raised to the boiling point. The bath was inserted at 75 ° C and phase B was
53/57 added to phase A and it was ensured that the temperature did not fall below 60 ° C and that the pH of the mixture was between 5 and 5.5. The mixture of phases C, D and E was added under maximum stirring and at a temperature above 60 ° C. The pH was lowered slowly with the phase F components very slowly until it was left at approximately 4.43. It was stirred for 30 minutes and the pH was measured (4.39). The mixture was allowed to cool to room temperature while stirring.
The pH was raised to 7 with the addition of phase G components, and later phase H components were added, a crosslinker diluted and stirred overnight.
The next day, I was added as a cationic polymer and was stirred for 3 hours.
INGREDIENT (INCI Nomenclature) % BY WEIGHT THE GELATINE (150B 30/40) 2.4 THE AQUA (WATER) 30.10 B CELLULOSE GUM 0.6 B AQUA (WATER) 30.10 Ç HEXAPEPTIDE ACETYL-30 0.00004 Ç DENAT ALCOHOL. 0.007 Ç AQUA (WATER) q.s.p. 100 D DIOCTILA SULPHOSUCCINATE 0.013 D ISOESTEARIC ACID 0.08 AND SOYBEAN OIL (GLYCINE SOYBEAN) 10.00 F CITRIC ACID 0.15 F AQUA (WATER) 0.35 G SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.09 G AQUA (WATER) 0.21 H GLUTARAL 0.50 H AQUA (WATER) 0.50 I POLYQUATERNON-16 15.0
EXAMPLE 3
Get microcapsules ionized cat what contains Argireline® with polyquaternium-16 Microcapsules of Argireline® [INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-3] were prepared in the same way form that in • »TMexample 2, but replacing Imline [INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-30 0] by Argireline® [INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-
54/57
3].
INGREDIENT (INCI Nomenclature)
F F G G H H I
GELATINE (150B 30/40)
AQUA (WATER)
CELLULOSE GUM
AQUA (WATER)
HEXAPEPTIDE ACETYL-30
DENAT ALCOHOL.
AQUA (WATER) DIOCTILA SULPHOSUCCINATE ISOESTEARIC ACID SOYBEAN OIL (GLYCINE SOYA) CITRIC ACID AQUA (WATER) SODIUM HYDROXIDE AQUA (WATER) GLUTARAL AQUA (WATER) POLYQUATE __________ -16
EXAMPLE 4
Obtain cationized microcapsules containing Antarcticine® and vitamin E acetate with polyquaternium-16 The microcapsules were prepared in the same way
TM example 1, replacing Chromabright Antarcticine® [INCI:% WEIGHT Extract
2.4
30.10
0.6
30.10
0.00025
0.007
q.s.p. 100
0.013
0.08
10.00
0.15
0.35
0.09
0.21
0.50
0.50
15.0 than in
Extract
Yeast form by
Pseudoalteromonas] and vitamin E acetate
INGREDIENT (INCI nomenclature) ____________ GELATINE (30/40 150B) to phenoxyethanol propanediol AQUA (WATER)
B CELLULOSE GUM
B AQUA (WATER)
C FERMENT EXTRACT
PSEUDOALTEROMONAS
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE
C soybean oil (Glycine soja) _D CITRIC ACID _D AQUA (WATER)
AND SODIUM HYDROXIDE
AND AQUA (WATER)
F GLUTARAL
F AQUA (WATER) _G ____ POLYQUATÉRNIO -16 _____________% BY WEIGHT
2.4
0.835
4,175
q.s.p. 100
0.6
30.00
FROM 0.40
3.50
6.50
0.15
1.00
0.10
10.00
0.50
0.50
15.0
55/57
EXAMPLE 5
Textile material containing Antarcticine® and vitamin E acetate and determination of the amount of vitamin E acetate after several washes.
The microcapsules of example 4 were agglutinated. The connection or agglutination of the microcapsules of example 4 to the textile materials was carried out by an exhaust bath. The textile materials were hung up to dry after bathing in accordance with the UNE-EN ISO 6330 standard.
To test the washing resistance of the microcapsules bonded to the previous textile materials, the last ones were treated with detergent solutions under agitation according to ISO 105 CO6. The textile materials were hung up to dry according to the UNE-EN ISO 6330 standard after each wash. The determination of the quality of microcapsules bound to the textile material was performed by HPLC determination (Column: C18 Nucleosil 100A, 5pm, 250 x 4.6mm; Mobile phase of water and methanol, flow of 0.7 ml / min, detection 290 nm ) the amount of active ingredient present in the textile material. The amounts of active ingredient bonded to the textile material after bathing and after a number of washes were determined after extracting vitamin E acetate from the textile material by sonication for 10 minutes. The external phase was filtered (0.45 pm) and was analyzed by an HPLC-UV / VIS detector. The percentages of vitamin E acetate present in the textile materials after five washes were an average of 66% compared to the percentage of vitamin E initially bound.
EXAMPLE 6
Textile material containing Antarcticine and vitamin E acetate and determination of the amount of vitamin E acetate after several washes.
The cationic microcapsules of example 4 were
56/57 agglutinated. The connection or agglutination of the microcapsules of example 4 to the textile materials was carried out by the fula method (pressure 100 kPa (1 bar), agglutination at 150 ° C for 2 minutes, 914g of microcapsules of example 4 per 1000 l of bath). The textile materials were dried at 150 ° C for 2 minutes.
To test the washing resistance of the microcapsules bonded to the previous textile materials, the last ones were treated with detergent solutions under agitation according to ISO 105 CO6. The textile materials were hung up to dry according to the UNE-EN ISO 6330 standard after each wash. The determination of the quality of microcapsules bound to the textile material was performed by HPLC determination (Column: C18 Nucleosil 100A, 5pm, 250 x 4.6mm; Mobile phase of water and methanol, flow of 0.7 ml / min, detection 290 nm ) the amount of active ingredient present in the textile material. The amounts of active ingredient bonded to the textile material after bathing and after a number of washes were determined after extracting vitamin E acetate from the textile material by sonication for 10 minutes. The external phase was filtered (0.45 μιη) and was analyzed by an HPLC-UV / VIS detector. The percentages of vitamin E acetate present in relation to the percentages of vitamin E initially bound are shown in the table below.
% Polyamide Cotton vitamin E washes 10036 wash 8925 washes 3627 washes 3012 washes16
The presence of microcapsules attached to the textile material was verified by scanning an electron microscope (see figure 1). For this reason, the different materials / 57 textiles were dehydrated in a desiccator for 48 hours and covered with a thin laminate (200 Â). The microscope used was FEI Quanta-200, FEI Company, North America at 10 kV, belonging to Scientific-Technical Services of the 5 University of Barcelona.

权利要求:
Claims (6)
[1]
1. FIBER AND / OR TEXTILE MATERIAL TREATMENT PROCESS, characterized by understanding the following steps:
a) dissolve two hydrophilic colloids in a solvent in which they are soluble and the addition of at least one active ingredient to form a suspension of the active ingredient in that solution,
b) adjust the pH and / or dilute the previous suspension to cause the colloids to coacervate and deposit in the encapsulated active ingredient,
c) after b), increase the pH of the suspension before adding a crosslinking agent to harden the formed microcapsules,
d) cationize the microcapsules with a polymer or cationic monomer,
e) connect or agglutinate the microcapsules to fibers and / or textile materials,
f) drying fibers and / or textile materials.
[2]
PROCESS, according to claim 1, characterized in that it additionally comprises cooling the microcapsules between step b) and step c).
[3]
3. PROCESS, according to claim 1, characterized in that hydrophilic colloids are selected from the group formed by proteins, polysaccharides, polyesters, polycyanoacrylates and mixtures thereof.
[4]
4. PROCESS, according to claim 3, characterized in that proteins and polysaccharides are selected from the group formed by gelatin, albumin, βlactoglobulin, whey protein, pea protein, potato protein, broad bean protein, wheat protein, serum albumin bovine, poly-L-lysine, soy protein, caseinates, casein, soy glycine, sodium alginate, wheat starch, corn starch, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose,
Petition 870190137407, of 12/20/2019, p. 11/19
2/6 hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, cellulose nitrate, carboxymethylcellulose, gum arabic, xanthan gum, mesquite gum, guar gum, carrageenans, tragacanth gum, arabinogalactans, galactomannans, sodium hexametaphosphate, exopolysaccharide B40, carboxymethyl minaxine, carboxymethyl sodium , dextran, chitosan, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate phthalate, acrylic derivatives and polyesters such as poly-s-caprolactone, zein, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose phthalate, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose acetate, polyvinyl acetate phthalate, poly (p-dioxanone) poly (β-valerolactone), poly (^ hydroxybutyrate), poly (β-hydroxybutyrate) and βhydroxyvalerate copolymers, poly (β-hydroxypropionate), methylacrylic methyl methacrylate copolymers, trimethylmethylmethylmethylmethyl methacrylate copolymers, copolymers and copolymers of lactic and glycolic acid, polymers and copolymers and polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
5. PROCESS, in wake up with The claim 1, featured by adjusting the pH in stage B) be at a pH between 3 and 5.5. 6. PROCESS, in wake up with The claim 1, featured by the increase of pH in step c) be the one pH between 6.5 and 13.7. PROCESS, in wake up with The claim 1,
characterized by the cross-linking agent being selected from the group consisting of aldehydes, glutaraldehyde, formaldehyde, transglutaminases, methylenebisacrylamide derivatives, N, N-methylenebisacrylamide, N, N- (1,2-dihydroxyethylene) bisacrylamide, ethylene acrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate derivatives, diethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, sodium dimethacrylate
Petition 870190137407, of 12/20/2019, p. 12/19
3/6 diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate, sodium tripolyphosphate, Nhydroxysuccinamide esters and / or imidoesters.
8. PROCESS, according to claim 1, characterized in that the cationic polymer is selected from the group formed by cationic cellulose derivatives, quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose, cationic starches, copolymers of ammonium diallyl and acrylamide salt, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, products of condensation of polyglycols and amines, polyquaternium polymers and copolymers, polymers called polyquaternium-6 copolymer merquats, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-4, a polyethyl-polyethyl-polyethyl-polyether group and polyethylene-polyethyl groups. of quaternary ammonium, quaternized collagen polypeptides, collagen hydrolyzed by hydroxypropyl lauryl dimonium, quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethylenimine, cationic silicone polymers, amidomethicone or silicone quaternium-22, adipic acid and diethylamine hydroxypropylene copolymers, hydroxypropylamine and hydroxypropylamine. chloret that of dimethyldialylammonium, cationic chitin derivatives, cationic alkylene dihalogen condensation products, dibromobutane condensation products with bisdialkylamines, bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, guar gum derivatives, guar-hydroxypropyltrimony, quaternary ammonium salt polymers , quaternized polysaccharide polymers of natural derivatives such as azarose, cationic gelatin proteins, cationic gum arabic proteins, cationic polyamide polymers, cationic polyacrylate polymers, cationic polylactide polymers, cationic polyglycol polymers, polyanyl polymers polymers cationic, polymers of
Petition 870190137407, of 12/20/2019, p. 13/19
4/6 cationic polyvinylpyrrolidone, cationic polymers of amino silicone polymers and copolymers, cationic polystyrene polymers, cationic polyvinyl alcohol polymers, cationic polystyrene copolymers and cationic maleic acid anhydride, cationic polymeric polyvinyl ether polymers, cationic polymeric polymer polymers, cationic copolymers of styrene and methyl methacrylate, polyacrylates and cationic polymethacrylates, polyamine derivatives optionally substituted by members of derivative polyethylene glycol, polyamino acids under pH conditions in which they are cationic, polyethyleneimine, quaternized derivatives of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and polymerylchloride and polymerylchloride, as well as polymers and polyurethane and polyurethane. of the cationic groups mentioned above.
9. PROCESS, in according to claim 1, featured by the call or agglutination be performed per exhaust bath, fula, or sprinkling.10. PROCESS, in according to claim 1, featured by drying be performed at least s 2
minutes at temperatures higher than 100 ° C.
11. PROCESS, according to claim 1, characterized in that the active ingredient is selected from the group formed by active ingredients and / or dermopharmaceutical and / or cosmetic adjuvants and insect repellents.
12. PROCESS, according to claim 11, characterized in that the active ingredient and / or cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant is selected from the group formed by surfactants, humectants or substances that retain moisture, moisturizers or emollients, agents that stimulate the healing, assisting healing agents, agents that stimulate reepithelization, assisting reepithelial agents, agents that synthesize dermal and epidermal macromolecules, firming and / or redensifying agents and / or
Petition 870190137407, of 12/20/2019, p. 14/19
[5]
5/6 restructuring agents, cytokine growth factors, agents that act in the capillary circulation and / or microcirculation, anti-glycation agents, free radical scavengers and / or atmospheric pollution agents, sequesterers of reactive carbonyl species, inhibitors of 5- reductase, lysyl- and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibiting agents, defensin-stimulating agents, bactericidal agents and / or bacteriostatic agents and / or antimicrobial agents and / or germicidal agents and / or fungicidal agents and / or fungistatic agents and / or germ inhibiting agents, antiviral agents, antiparasitic agents, antihistamine agents, NO synthase inhibiting agents, peeling agents or keratolytic agents and / or exfoliating agents, comedolytic agents, antipsoriasis agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-inflammatory and / or analgesic agents , anesthetic agents, anti-wrinkle and / or anti-aging agents, cosmetic and / or absorbent deodorants and / or deodorants that mask body odor, antiperspirant agents, perfuming substances and / or perfumed oils and / or isolated aromatic compounds, antioxidant agents, agents that inhibit vascular permeability, hydrolytic epidermal enzymes, skin whitening or depigmenting agents, agents that inhibit enzymes that degrade sweat, agents capable of filtering UV rays, agents that stimulate or regulate keratinocyte differentiation, anti-irritation agents, agents that stimulate or inhibit melanin synthesis, pro-pigmentation agents, self-tanning agents, agents that stimulate the proliferation of melanocytes, liquid propellants, vitamins, amino acids, proteins, biopolymers, gelling polymers, skin relaxing agents, agents with the ability to reduce or treat dark circles, agents for the treatment and / or care of sensitive skin, astringent agents, agents that regulate the
Petition 870190137407, of 12/20/2019, p. 15/19
[6]
6/6 sebum production, anti-stretch brand agents, lipolytic agents or agents that stimulate lipolysis agents, venotonics, anti-cellulite agents, soothing agents, agents that act on cellular metabolism, agents to improve the junction between dermis and epidermis, agents that induce hair growth and hair loss retardants, agents that inhibit or delay the growth of body hair, heat shock protein synthesis stimulating agents, muscle relaxants, muscle contraction inhibiting agents, agents that inhibit the aggregation of acetylcholine receptors , anticholinergic agents, elastase inhibiting agents, matrix metalloproteinase inhibiting agents, chelating agents, plant extracts, vegetable oils, marine extracts, mineral salts, cell extracts, emulsifying agents, agents that stimulate the synthesis of lipids and components of the stratum corneum, agents obtained from a biofermentation process and mixtures of the same the.
13. PROCESS according to claim 1, characterized in that the active ingredient is emulsified in a water-in-oil emulsion and suspended in step a).
14. PROCESS, according to claim 13, characterized in that the water-in-oil emulsion is contained in a solid lipid nanoparticle or in a nanostructured lipid carrier.

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法律状态:
2018-04-10| B06F| Objections, documents and/or translations needed after an examination request according art. 34 industrial property law|

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2018-04-17| B07D| Technical examination (opinion) related to article 229 of industrial property law|

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2018-05-22| B15K| Others concerning applications: alteration of classification|Ipc: D06M 23/12 (2006.01), A61K 8/11 (2006.01), B01J 13 |

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2018-05-22| B07B| Technical examination (opinion): publication cancelled|

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2020-03-31| B09A| Decision: intention to grant|

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2020-05-26| B16A| Patent or certificate of addition of invention granted|Free format text: PRAZO DE VALIDADE: 20 (VINTE) ANOS CONTADOS A PARTIR DE 24/03/2011, OBSERVADAS AS CONDICOES LEGAIS. |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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ES201030432|2010-03-24|

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ES201030432A|ES2383271B1|2010-03-24|2010-03-24|PROCESSING PROCESSING OF FIBERS AND / OR TEXTILE MATERIALS|

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PCT/EP2011/001474|WO2011116962A1|2010-03-24|2011-03-24|Process of treatment of fibers and/or textile materials|

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